ok heres my question: Im trying to do all the free mods i can, is it a good idea to remove the screens from the maf? i just gutted the air box, but i havent hooked up any ram air source,also i havent got my k&n filters, i know that there is supposed to be a significant airflow gain from removing the screens, but is it worth the risk? anyone had any problems after doing this? how much of a difference does it make?

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87 IROC-z 305 TPI 5spd Borg warner 9-bolt 3.42 posi 4 wheel disc, no mods yet,just got it.

 

Well, from what i have been told from everyone here, it's not a good thing to do.

I myself removed the screens from my MAF a few months ago. Well, im not sure if it's related, but shortly after, my car started acting wierd. Now it makes off popping noises from the engine, and some odd sounds when i speed up, with some odd pulling, and if i let up on the gas, even a little, i get a backfire.

My ECU screamed out that my MAF was bad, (like the good folk here told me) and i ended up taking my car to firestone, who said that the problem was a bad MAF.

So if its any help, i would say "don't do it". Its bad bad apples to have to purchace a new one (like i am going to do here in 20 mins).

Check out vaders posts, Yarnboy has told me he has a long description of why NOT to remove your MAF screens, and the reason why.

If i were you, i would just get me a K&N air filter. they rock!

 

as long as you don't break the wire inside, there should be no problem

 

First, there is not a significate increase in airflow and second, If you DO have problems, chances are you won't be able to get the screens back in..I was lucky..I really wouldn't mess with it..I have not heard one real claim of any sort of improvement in performance..I have only heard claims of crap staring to go bad. Just my opinion...

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-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, Code's 34,36)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREENS.. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREENS.

 

I have two TPI cars on 305 and one 350. On both of the cars I have removed the screens and I have had no problems. I have driven each car for more then 60,000 miles with no screens and no problems with the mass air flow sensor. Both cars have been modified and both cars run in the high 13's, I do not know how much the screen removal have effected my times. On a completely stock car I do not think screen removal will do much for performance. On a modified car I believe they will help performance. If you do not want to remove the screens but want more airflow buy a new MAFS from Wells. The Wells unit has no screens and is rated at 750 CFM. The stock MAFS with screens is 585 CFM without screens it is 709 CFM.

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1988 Formula 5L/5sp 3.45 gears, SLP cold air kit, MAS gutted, TPIS air foil, TPIS AFPR, MAC headers, Mac under drive pulleys, MAC cat back, Relocated MAT.
Best ET street tires 13.85
Best 60 FT street tires 1.930
Best MPH street tires 99.29

 

I removed the screens on my MAF (305 TPI) and haven't had any problems for about 15,000 miles now, but there is no real seat of the pants change so I would be safe and just leave them in. If you really want to increase your airflow through the MAF spend the money and get a Wells unit which flows better than stock. However if you don't have many mods like cam, heads, etc., then don't waste the money right now.


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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??

 

I agree with the last post about taken off
the screens and gaining performance.I`ve
had a MAF without screens for 6 years now.
I had a start problem with my car and when disconnected the MAF the problem went away
so I bought a Wells MAF but surprise! the
Wells unit do has a screen about 1/4`` thick
and the car had much less torque than before
with the old MAF.My start problem was not the
MAF but the burn off relay,so I put the old
MAF back and= big diference the torque was back so I went home and took the screen off
the Wells.I`m planing to put the wells in the
car without the screen and compare it with
the old MAF.The only little problem I`ve got
with my old MAF without screens and without
the 7 fins, is a little hesitation at start
up when I got to giv gas once before it idles
fine.
BenIroc
89Iroc
TFS heads, 9`` rear, headers .......

 

well i think im gonna leave them in for now, and if i can find a MAF in a junkyard, ill chop that one up. but better safe then sorry, i think ill just wait til i get my underdrive pulleys, k&n`s , AFPR, and air foil before i mess with the screens. thanks for your input.

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87 IROC-z 305 TPI 5spd Borg warner 9-bolt 3.45 posi 4 wheel disc,8.8 Accel wires , bosch platinum +4 plugs,gutted air box,k&n oil filter,synthetic oil 10w30

 

Yes, don't mod the MAF. It flows lots already!!

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Looking For:

87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O. Automatic

If u are in the Central NJ area, possibly for sale:
89 RS 2.8
60,000 miles on engine
T-Tops, new stripping
235/60/15's
AR rims
newer muffler with 2 1/2 pipes, high tempature aluminum painted
hatch tint
lots more
Nice Car

 

I removed the screens and the heat sink fins on my car with no problems at all.

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14.48@93.72mph

 

Well first off, I would highly, highly recommend against it. Unless your car is making gobs of power, don't. Instead, go with a Wells unit (or maybe a Vortech unit).

Ben, sorry to say this but you FUBARed your Wells unit. It is designed with a venturi housing and the 'screen' is not a screen as much as an airflow director. The Wells unit does not use a filiment like the Bosch ones. I recently had a chance to pick the brain of one of the techs at Wells, and while they do not readily admit that the unit outflows a Bosch, independant testing has. The guy you want to talk to about this is Vader, he knows a boatload about this unit.

 

Well Red I sure hope you are wrong about my
Wells unit.What I can say is that the screen
I took off in the inlet of the MAF was as
thick as 1/4 of an inch and I looked a lot
at the position of the screen and I was then
sure it would`n hurt the unit if I took off
it.Tomorrow we will know as I`m going to test
the Wells in the car.
Anyway it will be exciting to test it wouldn`t it ?
See ya
BenIroc
89 Iroc, TFS heads, headers, 9`` rear etc etc

 

don't do it if your car is stock, won't help much. can't compare before and after i took mine out during engine swap. i have put about 40,000 miles on it with no problem.if you do make sure you have a damn good filter to be safe. make sure you only oil the incoming air side of the K&N when you clean them, if the topside is oiled the oil will get to the sensor, might fry your maf. mine acted up, then i stopped oiling that side, no problems since.

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88 CAMARO RS
87 IROC-Z DRIVETRAIN
305 TPI, 700R4, 3.73s
ported plenum, performance resource chip,edelbrock TES Headers and cat-back, K&Ns, AFPR, rest is stock.
15.0 @ 92.5 (bald tires)

 

I took the screens off my MAF. Have no problems. And as far as the oil from a K&N, the screens I pulled out of my MAF weren't anything that would stop oil being flung from my air filter. Of course, I have a bird so the air intake is a little different.


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'86 WS6 Trans Am

 

It worked!I put the Wells without the fat
screen in the car and the car started at
once, no hesitation and it idles better
than the old MAF.But the most amazing was
that the punch on the car was there when
I mashed the gas pedal,yet smoother than the
old MAF.I have a modified car and when I
mash the gas the 58 TB wants lots of air
at once,and now I get it without the screen.
I must say I couldn`t drive maximally because
it was wet and raining today; that said I`m
very pleased with the Wells now.
BenIroc
89 Iroc TFS heads, cam,LTR,Eld. base,Headers,
cat, avgas, 24 injectors,MSD ignition,
mod trans,9 inch rear,Mark Willians axles and a lot of traction mods.
MSD ignition,headers,

 

Yes, don't mod the MAF. It flows lots already!!
--------------------------------------------------

That is not true! The stock MAF don't flow enough for a 305, let alone a 350. If you want to find out how much of a restriction the stock MAF is with or without the screens; Then remove the intake ducting from the Throtle Body and disconnect the harness from the MAF. Even though you will inmediately go to Limp Home Mode, you will still run better, providing the engine is just warm so that it doesn't suck really hot air. I plan on doing this next time I go to the track.

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'88 GTA 350
Headers, catback, free mods, Xtreme energy cam, and intake pieces
13.51@104.27, but can run better as it is.

I just put a new 2100-2300 RPM TQ Converter. I hope a 13.20 or better

RAPTOR, the baddest bird on the planet
AIM HIGH!

 

I removed mine on my 89 350 and haven't had any problems yet. I don't think it made any real difference but with a set of hedders, gutted airbox and K & N's it will make a small difference.

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1989 Iroc-Z TPI 350 auto 4-spd Removed MAF screens K & N filters, stock other than that.

 

F22, see what Vader said about this in my topic https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/001579.html

------------------
Looking For:

87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.

 

Many people disagree on this subject. If I had to do it all over again, I would in a heartbeat. I felt a big difference in throttle response when I removed the screens; but then again, it's up to the owner to do this simple free mod or not.
I don't have to listen or read any """theoretical""" reason why it wouldn't work; What I read sounds to me like "straight up", "flat out" nonsense. If all this was true, then why do we all try to upgrade to a 52mm throttle body or a big mouth TPIS plate or bigger runners? They only make a very small difference. I have similar pieces in my car and none of them felt any stronger than the removal of the screens in the MAF. The reason why We do this is because all these small gains add up, including the removal of the MAF screens.
To add more to this subject and also disprove the "theoretical" scenario stated by Vader, I saw an article on NASCAR Garage (from TNN) where crew chiefs were saying that in some races where they had to use Restrictor Plates (spacer between carburetor and intake manifold designed with SMALLER holes than Carb. to reduce engine power) were creating a condition where the engine was trying to suck so much air through the spacer that it actually caused the intake manifold gaskets to literally be sucked out of place by a small amount (no, the engine didn't swallow the gasket and spit it out the tailpipe, but it did cause a huge vacuum leak); I forget now , but I think the gasket had moved towards the lifter valley. Now this are NOT huge engines, these are only 355 ci that have obviously been modded to the max, but show a dramatic examples of what small restrictions can do.
Once again, the owner decides what mod are to be done to their cars.
Rick

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'88 GTA 350
Headers, catback, free mods, Xtreme energy cam, and intake pieces
13.51@104.27, but can run better as it is.

I just put a new 2100-2300 RPM TQ Converter. I hope a 13.20 or better

RAPTOR, the baddest bird on the planet
AIM HIGH!

 

I havn't seen anyone bother to optimise the fuel and timing in both conditions and report any real results.
Seat of the pants opinions I tend to ignore.
Opinions are exactly that. Unless acurrate testing is done it's guessing IMO.
For driving with the MAF disconnected your in a Alpha-N EFI strategy. Just depends on how the netres lines up with your combo as to how well it runs.
Your also in a ign. module timing mode. The ecm is not actively controlling the timing.
Easy maf test is if it runs better with it unplugged the maf is junk
Grumpy http://www.gnttype.org/carofthemonth...omdetails.html