I've heard of High Capasitive Discharge ignition stuff not working will with multiple discharge stuff... they end up blowing each other out.

Will I be able to run the Holley ignition module along with and MSD Blaster coil (stock replacement one) and possibly an MSD 6-AL box in the future?

I need to know if the Holley will not like MSD. 60 bucks is alot to lay down on an ignition module.

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

Honest, seek out the manufacture tech reps.
They REALLY KNOW the answers for ya.
PS you may also get an idiot tech person. It happens.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Sure ya can; an ignition module is an ignition module... the GM one isn't meant for multiple discharge, either! Besides, the module just picks up the pulse from the pick-up coil, alters the timing curve through the computer, and sends a pulse to the spark coil to "fire!" Are you using Holley #891-103?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Tom, no I'm not using it, but now with that answer, it looks like I will be.

Probably put it in sometime after Christmas when I can afford to have my new PU-coil installed... I tried to do it myself... man what a PITA. That distrib was stuck in solid.

My mech said an hours worth of labor would do it... so like 60 bucks...

Unless you wanna do it for me

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

Was the distributor "stuck in" the engine solid?

If so, you need to disconnect your cold start injector; the connector's right at the back of the engine, and is "locking" the distributor in. I was on a junkyard f-body, standing on the engine (no hood), yanking up on a 2.8 distributor- and it wouldn't come out. I pulled that connector out just to get a better look, saw nothing, stood on the engine again, pulled, and beat the hell out of my hand on the cowl as the distributor flew out. Same thing on my car... I was glad I got a junkyard "backup" distributor, that way I knew how to pull mine!



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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Yeah, it was pretty solid...

Where is the CSI? Is it that thing that sticks in the back of the fuel rail? and I guess the gas comes in from the side? I have a fuel rail sitting here and I always wondered what the hell was up with that...

Anyway, thanks for your help Tom!

Is the PU coil something I can do myself? (novice)? How long do you figure I should set aside to do this? How do I mark off the ditrib so I don't put it back in a tooth off?

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

Actually, the CSI is in the back of the intake manifold. Are you thinking of is the Schraeder valve... looks like a big tire valve? That's where you hook a fuel pressure gauge.

Look at the fuel rail, see the connectors for the fuel injectors? There's a similar connector at the base of your distributor; you squeeze the metal "wire clip" in, and then you pull the connector straight back. Actually, if you follow the thin metal "pipe" off the fuel rail, it will lead you to the cold start injector.

You could definately swap the pick-up coil in ... I guess, about 15 minutes. The hardest part of the whole job is pulling and reinstalling the distributor.

Yanking the distrib is covered in the Haynes 82-92 manual, but here it is "quickly":

1. Pull distrib cap, get a bottle of white-out
2. Hover over the distributor, and make a mark on the distributor's flat metal "base" of where the rotor is pointing... exactly.
3. Remove the hold-down bolt (and the cold start injector connector)
4. Lift the distributor up slowly. The rotor will start to turn; this is because the distributor gear teeth are at an angle. When the rotor stops turning, make another mark on the distributor base of where the rotor points. Somehow, make this mark "obvious" that it's the 2nd one.
5. So now you've got 2 marks; one mark with the distrib fully seated, and one mark with the distrib gear fully disengaged.
6. Pull the unit out all the way, do your work to it
7. Right before you put the distrib back in, spin the rotor so it lines up with the second mark
8. Drop the distributor into the motor... it's angle of rotation "overall" doesn't matter, but you can usually judge by where the harness connectors "want" to go..
9. When the distributor fully seats into the motor, the rotor will turn so it lines up with the first mark. If it doesn't, you can either pull the distributor out and try again, OR, just spin the distributor base (the rotor won't turn since it's locked into the cam's drive gear) so the 1st mark lines up.

The Haynes 82-92 book also covers a distributor rebuild... the $15 book sounds better than the $60/hour fee!

Also replace the o-ring seal (1 inch inside diameter o-ring. Pep boys sells a "bag of five" in metal drawers by their wheel studs... 89V6BIRD got us the part #, it's #64214 .. I think it's $1.20 a bag.

Also clean up the "air gap" between the reluctor and "fingers" (I used a feeler gauge, usually used to adjust valves, probably $5 at an auto store), and if you change the module, make sure to use high-temp grease between it and the distributor base.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Wow, thanks Tom! Sounds easy, but I'll screw it up somehow. I have an intire intake right here, and I see the hole your talking about... Why does the cold start injector fire into the vacuum lines? I thought the vaccuum lines were an "air only" place... guess not. Oh yeah, and on the intake manifold I have, the injector has a screw down part.... man if only had a digital camera, that would make it so much easier...

I've heard that the distributor hold-down can be a real b*tch to get off and put back in, and from my experiences, it is... Karl luckily told us of a way to get around this, so maybe I'll try it his way.

Isn't the oil pressure sending unit back there too? Maybe I could do it all in one sitting... where is that at? I know I'm leaking oil from back there, either the unit or the distrib and I get an oil idiot light coming on whenever I get hard on the brakes...

One final question. What did you set the air gap to between the reluctor and the pole pieces? I would assume closer is better, maybe .025? I know right now they are kinda far apart, maybe half a MM...

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

Your oil sender unit should be just above and slightly to left of your oil filter. If you leaking near you distributor your leaking oil from the O ring. I have a leak in the same place. It's my last leak and will be fixed soon.

 

If you don't recall the distrib trick set up I described, just ask.
IT's easy to make & it's a big help to get distb. in, there, better.
Good luck!!

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Half of a millimeter would probably be perfect. I don't recall which gauge I used; I remember it being pretty small, though.

When the distrib's out, before any work, spin the shaft. You should feel some pulses. After cleaning up the air gap, spin it again- the pulses should feel much stronger.

And hey, if not, that means your distrib wasn't that far out of whack!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

In my distb rebuild, I set everything by eye and spin. If it looked equal spacing all around, it was. I kept the gap real short. I also polished everything with sand paper, got the surface a bit cleaner.


------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Thanks guys! You've all been a wonderful help!

Now if only I had a dry/warm Saturday and Sunday off from work (and my girlfriend) and enough ***** to brave this on my own...

(Saturday + Sunday, simply because I like to leave myself -alot- of leeway time..

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

On the topic about MSD and HCD. The coil is the same!!!! The difference is the Ignition box. The MSD (Multi spark Discharge) "Box" slows the progression of the spark and extends it to completly burn the A/F mix in 1 1/2 cycle. The HCD gives you one big zap of juice to burn all the A/F in 1 shot. MSD is kinda funny if you do get the 6a or 6al you will find it interesting to read (Do not use other plug wire than MSD with this system.) Thier just trying to keep money rolling in thier direction. I broke my blaster 2 coil and have benn running an accel super coil for 2 years no problems.
SSC

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85 Camaro Z28, Cowl induction hood, Black-355/TB400,3:42 posi, Tons of goodies but if you ask, "Its stock"
82 Firebird, White, red in six months-355/TB350,3:42 Powertrax posi. Not an insane amount of goodies but it runs like a motha!
76 Chevy C10, Firemist blue, 355/Muncie HD 3speed,3:73 TorqLine posi. Show me another 12sec@4800ft SBC street truck??
91 GMC 1500 Sierra 4x4, Red, Was 4.3 now the proud recipient of the Firebirds LG4. 305/5 speed.
56 Buick Special, OG Blue&White, V8/auto. Maybee one day I'll get it going.

 

SSC, thank you, you answered my question to the "T". I can't wait till next Friday, PAYDAY! Then I can finally get all this taken care of. :P

Coil:40
Module:60
(I have the PU)
(and -If- I have to, labor:60)

 

SSC, you're talking about the spark coil, not the spark module, right?

 

Im basicly saying that it doesent matter which (coil) you use.
SSC

 

Cool, just making sure I understood what you were talking about. I've also heard of people using the Accel coil with the MSD box.

I've been thinking of finishing my "distributor rebuild" page; maybe this weekend, I'll stick it up under http://www.geocities.com/tomp_3rdgen - seems like most people think geocities is fast for 'em, so this might be the permanent home for my website- if I can get the damn FTP to work!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

why worry about getting a coil and a spark box?

I always was under the idea that they honestly dont do much with a FI car that has only minor mods

the stock system shoud hold to your needs unless you are forced, nitro, carb, or high comp

or if you stock system is dead I can see then

but honest what woudl be gained from this?

 

RX7, my stock system is dead... at least I believe so. It's original 17 year old equipment at least, so yes there is something to be gained.

Better MPG at the least, engine will rev easier. True you don't -gain- HP, but it just complements a set-up, and fixes broken stuff.

 

Well, yeah, such would be true if we were talking about a spark box! We're not, we're talking about a spark module. It's part of the distributor. It senses the magnetic pulses from the pick-up coil (also in the distributor), gives output to (and takes input from) the computer, and decides when to tell the spark coil to fire (result= altered ignition timing).

And tested on my car, an aftermarket spark coil gave more power in upper RPM's. For $40, it's a good mod.

Also tested on my car, the MSD 6AL box didn't do that much; if I had any other < $170 mods to do, I would've gladly done 'em first. I noticed a bit more power at lower rpm's. I also noticed the car takes about 1/2 second longer to start...

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)