Is this true?
Is this true?
Well I just heard on the radio if ur car runs too cold that it can sludge up ur motor. Well its getting cold out and I have a 180 stat and my dual fans are wired to stay on all the time. Do you guys think I should wire my fans to a switch?
Uhhhh...we live in Florida. Not much to worry about. Just let your car warm up before you head out the driveway. If you use 5W oil, should be ok.
To answer your question, though...wire your fans to a switch.
But you might forget to turn them on.
To answer your question, though...wire your fans to a switch.
But you might forget to turn them on.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,775
Likes: 27
From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
One would think, even with the fans on, the motor won't run any colder than what the thermostat lets it (unless it's a bad thermo.). Being able to switch your fans off & on would put less of a strain on your alt. however.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I agree with deadbird. As long as your T-stat is functioning properly, it will have a minimum temperature that will cause it close and stop the engine from getting any colder. It is no different than us guys who live in colder climates and are going down a down grade where we have no load on the engine and plenty of airflow - the T-stat will allow the coolant to only go so low and then close.
The only problem you may have with your current setup is you may shorten the life of the fan motors.
The only problem you may have with your current setup is you may shorten the life of the fan motors.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 0
From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
using the fans all the time could cause the t-stat to run partially open/closed
Not good for coolant flow and overall circulation.
Unless you are running a high quality (non-OEM type) t-stat, you might find that they don't open at the temp they are rated for. They start to open and many things can impact their full open temp. Like coolant system pressure for one thing.
tstats are not precision units and are operating in a harsh environment. If they are expected to open and close multiple times during the engine operation they will fail.
Unless you are running a high quality (non-OEM type) t-stat, you might find that they don't open at the temp they are rated for. They start to open and many things can impact their full open temp. Like coolant system pressure for one thing.
tstats are not precision units and are operating in a harsh environment. If they are expected to open and close multiple times during the engine operation they will fail.
well I could proly wire them to a toogle switch right? It will be a major pain to wire them back with the computer. Also I just did my heater core today and I get heat but I mean it snot hot. Its warm enough for me but I would expect it to be hotter.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 0
From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
just don't use a fan controler that has a radiator probe
They are not accurate and will not turn on at consistent temps. I have an adjustable one and I cannot count on it turning on consistently. Vader, can you tell me where you got the tstat housing sensor?
jcb,
The sensor is from AutoMeter, P/N 3246. They were about twenty bucks in May of '99. It is available in 187-204°F, and 175-195°F ratings. I used the 187-204° (P/N 3246) and the coolant is a steady 200-205° regardless of load, air temperature, etc. Of course, I'm also using DexCool, which does have a little better latent heat capacity, and a Red Line water wetter just for grins.
The sensor has a flat face on the inner end, so it doesn't interfere with coolant flow. I had fun tapping the ½ NPT hole in the water outlet, but the rest was a piece of cake. I've had good luck with it so far (three years).
The sensor is from AutoMeter, P/N 3246. They were about twenty bucks in May of '99. It is available in 187-204°F, and 175-195°F ratings. I used the 187-204° (P/N 3246) and the coolant is a steady 200-205° regardless of load, air temperature, etc. Of course, I'm also using DexCool, which does have a little better latent heat capacity, and a Red Line water wetter just for grins.
The sensor has a flat face on the inner end, so it doesn't interfere with coolant flow. I had fun tapping the ½ NPT hole in the water outlet, but the rest was a piece of cake. I've had good luck with it so far (three years).
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by Vader
I had fun tapping the ½ NPT hole in the water outlet, but the rest was a piece of cake. I've had good luck with it so far (three years).
I had fun tapping the ½ NPT hole in the water outlet, but the rest was a piece of cake. I've had good luck with it so far (three years).
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