condensation while rebuilding???
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
condensation while rebuilding???
I am starting a rebuild on a 400ci....tomorrow I,ll be tearing it down to the block, Two Questions.
Any special machine work I need done on this block. (2-bolt). ? I hope to run 450 -500 hp when completed. Ive read about "steam holes" to help the cooling? Could anyone explain this to me, and is in needed.
Question 2..How do I keep moisture (condensation) off my motor while I am building it. The build will take some time( limited $$$$)
I live here in Iowa and the humidity is high in the summer. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
Any special machine work I need done on this block. (2-bolt). ? I hope to run 450 -500 hp when completed. Ive read about "steam holes" to help the cooling? Could anyone explain this to me, and is in needed.
Question 2..How do I keep moisture (condensation) off my motor while I am building it. The build will take some time( limited $$$$)
I live here in Iowa and the humidity is high in the summer. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
The 400 block and heads have "steam holes" between the
cylinders. The cylinders are joined together so no coolant flows
between them which creates a hot spot. The steam holes help
combat this problem. Whatever heads you run must have these
holes drilled into them.
cylinders. The cylinders are joined together so no coolant flows
between them which creates a hot spot. The steam holes help
combat this problem. Whatever heads you run must have these
holes drilled into them.
Also for that kind of power you will want to add splayed 4 bolt
main caps. And don't have the block bored and decked until
you are ready to put it back together.
main caps. And don't have the block bored and decked until
you are ready to put it back together.
Last edited by Swapmaster; Mar 31, 2002 at 12:17 AM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
I'm looking at the world sportsman II, I was under the impression that a 2-bolt 400 block is stronger than the four
I dont understand Splayed, Ive heard the term but I really don"t know what it is..
I wouldnt have thought of waiting to bore and deck . Good Idea that will clean up any deposits.
Hey where in NE are ya?
I dont understand Splayed, Ive heard the term but I really don"t know what it is..I wouldnt have thought of waiting to bore and deck . Good Idea that will clean up any deposits.
Hey where in NE are ya?
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Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,507
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From: Elizabeth, Colorado
Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
I think a good set of rod bolts is more important then dumping a bunch of cash at splayed caps, and block machining.
Basicly it's changing your two bolt to a four bolt, but the bolts are taped at a slight angle.
I would have it done if I were going to push 7000+RPM's.
I'm running a 350 @ 425FPT & 6500RPM's with a good two bolt block.
I had to drill a coolant hole into my 350's deck. You can do with a good drill, & drill bit. The deck is preaty thick, so do it outside cause it makes a mess. I also did it with the block upside down on the stand. Use the head gasket to mark the spot to drill.
Ron
Basicly it's changing your two bolt to a four bolt, but the bolts are taped at a slight angle.
I would have it done if I were going to push 7000+RPM's.
I'm running a 350 @ 425FPT & 6500RPM's with a good two bolt block.
I had to drill a coolant hole into my 350's deck. You can do with a good drill, & drill bit. The deck is preaty thick, so do it outside cause it makes a mess. I also did it with the block upside down on the stand. Use the head gasket to mark the spot to drill.
Ron
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
ok, it is my understanding that the machine work that is done to make the 4 bolt..actually weakens the block....(removing the block material for clearance.)
I will stick with the 2-bolt for now with good end caps.....any suggestions on wich manufacturer on the rotating assembly, I hope to use the stock crank..(good or bad Idea?)
As for drilling the steam holes, How deep? What size bit? just into cooling chambers ? A little more help would be great. I'm not afraid to get dirty or try new things.....thanks
I will stick with the 2-bolt for now with good end caps.....any suggestions on wich manufacturer on the rotating assembly, I hope to use the stock crank..(good or bad Idea?)
As for drilling the steam holes, How deep? What size bit? just into cooling chambers ? A little more help would be great. I'm not afraid to get dirty or try new things.....thanks
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I have never heard that adding 4 bolt caps reduces block strenght
The slayed caps actually add intergity to the block. 450 - 500
horse power is too much for a 2 bolt block, I have run 375hp on
a 2 bolt block before but I think that was probably pushing the
limit. You shouldn't worry about rod bolts too much because
when you buy your new rods the salesman will suggest the
proper bolts to use. Also when you buy your rods buy a good set
of 350 rods and the pistons made for the longer rod. The 400 rods
are too short and will NOT take much abuse.
When you get the heads off of your engine, look at the holes in
between the cylinders just above centerline of the cylinders. They
look about like 1/8" holes just below the larger holes. These 1/8"
holes are the ones. I know they don't look like they would make
any difference but they do. When you get ready to install the
heads you can lay the head gasket on the head and mark the
holes with a center punch then drill them all the way through into
the water jacket.
I would wait until you had the rods and pistons you are going to
use and take everything including the flywheel and ballancer to a
good machine shop and get it all ballanced.
When you select a cam you will need to take into account the new
rods you will have. The rod bolts may hit the cam. You may need
a small base cam to get more clearance.
Got to go for now, have to go and hide eggs for the little ones.
Happy Easter everyone.
The slayed caps actually add intergity to the block. 450 - 500
horse power is too much for a 2 bolt block, I have run 375hp on
a 2 bolt block before but I think that was probably pushing the
limit. You shouldn't worry about rod bolts too much because
when you buy your new rods the salesman will suggest the
proper bolts to use. Also when you buy your rods buy a good set
of 350 rods and the pistons made for the longer rod. The 400 rods
are too short and will NOT take much abuse.
When you get the heads off of your engine, look at the holes in
between the cylinders just above centerline of the cylinders. They
look about like 1/8" holes just below the larger holes. These 1/8"
holes are the ones. I know they don't look like they would make
any difference but they do. When you get ready to install the
heads you can lay the head gasket on the head and mark the
holes with a center punch then drill them all the way through into
the water jacket.
I would wait until you had the rods and pistons you are going to
use and take everything including the flywheel and ballancer to a
good machine shop and get it all ballanced.
When you select a cam you will need to take into account the new
rods you will have. The rod bolts may hit the cam. You may need
a small base cam to get more clearance.
Got to go for now, have to go and hide eggs for the little ones.
Happy Easter everyone.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
So I would go with the 5.7 rods instead of the 6.o right? Wich cc heads would be best of the sportsman II. I would like to still run on pump gas....I can get 92 octain here. I was thinking one of the comp extreme energy cams..any suggestions?
The 6" rods will move the wrist pin up into the ring grooves.
This would be ok for a stip car but not a good idea for a street
driven car.
Actually I think the 5.7 rods will put the pin into the oil ring groove
but that's ok at least it is not in the compression rings like the 6"
rods would be.
As far as heads, I can't help you there. I have never tried to make
that kind of power before but it is going to take one hell of a set
of heads and a pretty stout bump stick.
This would be ok for a stip car but not a good idea for a street
driven car.
Actually I think the 5.7 rods will put the pin into the oil ring groove
but that's ok at least it is not in the compression rings like the 6"
rods would be.
As far as heads, I can't help you there. I have never tried to make
that kind of power before but it is going to take one hell of a set
of heads and a pretty stout bump stick.
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so much to research.... 