Power Window Help Please!
#1
Power Window Help Please!
It looks like my drivers side power window on my GTA is taking a huge dump! First of all it's VERY slow and it will roll down about 90% of the way then stop and I have to wait a little bit before I can roll it down all the way. The longer I wait the more the window will move and if I only wait a second it will just barely budge. Same thing for going up but worse It's been getting worse for about 1 1/2 years now, it's just been because I don't drive the car alot. BTW, right when the window stops I can see the volt meter in my dash take like a huge 5 volt plunge if I keep my finger on the power window button.
It's louder than the passenger window which works great. What's wrong with it? Motor, reg., what? My old 82 S/E NEVER had a power window problem, they worked like new and had never been replaced. Does my GTA's window just need to be lubed or something? Is the motor building up friction heat and shuting down or is the motor just shot from too many drive throughs?
Thanks!
It's louder than the passenger window which works great. What's wrong with it? Motor, reg., what? My old 82 S/E NEVER had a power window problem, they worked like new and had never been replaced. Does my GTA's window just need to be lubed or something? Is the motor building up friction heat and shuting down or is the motor just shot from too many drive throughs?
Thanks!
Last edited by 92GTA; 04-12-2002 at 11:44 AM.
#2
#4
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Car: Firebird
Engine: 3.1 L
Transmission: auto
changed my power window motor today, 45 min.
1st - move your window all the way down, take off the armrest and stuff.
2nd - drill three holes (6mm) thru the inner door right above the rivets holding the motor.
3rd - drill the 3 rivets out (window in half position) the old motor comes off, take off the connectors and pull the motor out and new one in, move the window a bit for exact fit, new bolts and nuts and washers 4mm 1" long, use some grease on your finger when you try to put the nuts and washers on the bolts.
my window takes 3 seconds to go up and down now
Horst
1st - move your window all the way down, take off the armrest and stuff.
2nd - drill three holes (6mm) thru the inner door right above the rivets holding the motor.
3rd - drill the 3 rivets out (window in half position) the old motor comes off, take off the connectors and pull the motor out and new one in, move the window a bit for exact fit, new bolts and nuts and washers 4mm 1" long, use some grease on your finger when you try to put the nuts and washers on the bolts.
my window takes 3 seconds to go up and down now
Horst
#5
Save the work for a sunday or when you've got nothing to do later, Shane's tech article is an incredible help, but by the time you finish doing the motor you're not going to want to do much of anything else... getting inside that door to move **** around SUCKS... oh yeah, and make sure you've got someone to help to hold the window up for you.
#7
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Car: Firebird
Engine: 3.1 L
Transmission: auto
you don't have to secure nothing! Just drill out the 3 rivets at the motor like described above - maybe arrest the window a little so it's not moving during your work at the door.
Horst
Horst
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#8
Two of the "wheels" located on the regulator slide into the track riveted to the window glass, the other one slides into a track mounted on the inner door shell. securing the sector gear in place with a temporary bolt will hold the window stationary which can be helpful.
The regulator counterweight spring is rather large as can be seen in the pictures. Spring could do some damage if it manages to break free of the regulator when you're banging the door parts around attempting to install the new motor.
The regulator counterweight spring is rather large as can be seen in the pictures. Spring could do some damage if it manages to break free of the regulator when you're banging the door parts around attempting to install the new motor.
#9
another point of intrest, often in older cars it's just that the brushes have worn out, rest of the motor is often in acceptable shape. thirdgen motors are designed in such a way that the brushes are replaceable without removing the motor from the door.
pop off the endcap (careful not to loose peices as some are spring loaded), replace the brushes, and put it back together. much easier than drilling out the old rivets & installing a new motor.
pop off the endcap (careful not to loose peices as some are spring loaded), replace the brushes, and put it back together. much easier than drilling out the old rivets & installing a new motor.
#13
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Car: Firebird
Engine: 3.1 L
Transmission: auto
Ditto, and how can I be sure that it is the brushes??
after you changed them - if it won't work = not the brushes
Horst
to be save:
rebuilt motor at www.carparts.com 35$
after you changed them - if it won't work = not the brushes
Horst
to be save:
rebuilt motor at www.carparts.com 35$
#14
local electrical rebuilder shop should have some brushes that would match up size wise to the window motor brushes.
alternatively, you can use a file and modify some alternator or starter brushes to fit in the window motor brush holders. rumor is that older ford alternator brushes work quite well for this task.
you don't have much to loose trying to "rebuild" your own motor, just a little time. pull the interior door panel, make sure the window is rolled all the way up, and bend the motor retaining tabs out and pop the end cap off. some end caps have little holes drilled so you can use a straight metal pin to retain the brushes in place during reassembly. but if not, pull the armature out a little bit and put the commutator between the brushes to hold them in place during reassembly.
if no luck rebuilding, leave the door panel off and go to autoparts store and purchase another motor. thirdgens use the same window motor as dozens of other general motors vehicles, so there's a good chance the store will have one in stock.
FYI: I just finished retrofitting power windows to a manual crank equipped thirdgen. Used all OE GM parts for the job and greased the window tracks well during the project. Time to roll window from fully open position to fully closed position is around 3 seconds.
alternatively, you can use a file and modify some alternator or starter brushes to fit in the window motor brush holders. rumor is that older ford alternator brushes work quite well for this task.
you don't have much to loose trying to "rebuild" your own motor, just a little time. pull the interior door panel, make sure the window is rolled all the way up, and bend the motor retaining tabs out and pop the end cap off. some end caps have little holes drilled so you can use a straight metal pin to retain the brushes in place during reassembly. but if not, pull the armature out a little bit and put the commutator between the brushes to hold them in place during reassembly.
if no luck rebuilding, leave the door panel off and go to autoparts store and purchase another motor. thirdgens use the same window motor as dozens of other general motors vehicles, so there's a good chance the store will have one in stock.
FYI: I just finished retrofitting power windows to a manual crank equipped thirdgen. Used all OE GM parts for the job and greased the window tracks well during the project. Time to roll window from fully open position to fully closed position is around 3 seconds.
#15
Ok, I'll just replace the entire motor to be safe and to be done with it, I don't want to just replace a small part here and there because the motor is bound to go out soon anyway. I'm going to go ahead and do both sides too while i'm at it. I went to CarParts.com and could only find a replacement AC Delco motor for $119.75!!!!! Part #22121553 NOT CHEAP!!!
Where the heck did you find the rebuilt one for only $35? Was it AC Delco? I only want an AC Delco one........
Where the heck did you find the rebuilt one for only $35? Was it AC Delco? I only want an AC Delco one........
Last edited by 92GTA; 04-20-2002 at 05:22 PM.
#16
2vmodular-- you rule:hail:
I just pulled apart my driver's side motor and sure enough there was about ten pounds of carbon dust and these little nubs that were probably once brushes. I got new ones at an electrical supply store (they have all kinds of brushes there) now my window's work great.
I just pulled apart my driver's side motor and sure enough there was about ten pounds of carbon dust and these little nubs that were probably once brushes. I got new ones at an electrical supply store (they have all kinds of brushes there) now my window's work great.
#17
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Car: Firebird
Engine: 3.1 L
Transmission: auto
#18
I saw that thanks! I only use AC Delco parts on my car though, always have, always will. All of the previous owners did as well too.
Do you know of any place that have remanufactured or reconditioned AC Delco motors? I figure that will be the only cheaper than buying brand new one's....
Do you know of any place that have remanufactured or reconditioned AC Delco motors? I figure that will be the only cheaper than buying brand new one's....
#20
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Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
hey i went on carparts.com and they have door lock motors!! mine don't lock all the way but unluck completly. do u think these will solve my problem? also they have a listing for a door lock motor and a door lock service motor. does any1 know the diff. thanks
#21
TGO Supporter
I have the same problem with my passengers window motor, i want to buy brushes for my motor anyone have a certain number for the brushes from a well known store, i would prefer a direct fit? any help would be helpful
#22
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Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
ok so to do the window i drill out the rivits and pop it out and pop the new one in? is there any alignmentsi need to do cause i don't wunt to get it together and onl have my window go up halfway lol thanks
#23
TGO Supporter
with the wondow all the way up, have someone hold it up or just wedge something to hold the wondow up. after that drill the three rivets out, that holds the motor to the mounting plate or what ever that is called. then put the motor in, but putting the nuts and bolts supplied in the same spots the rivets came out. It help me alot when after i drilled the rivets out with a drill bit that was big enough to get the rivet out but not make the holes any bigger. after the old rivets are completly drilled out, what i did was make huge holes in the door metal only so i could get the new bolts to get right into the holes from the motor being lined up with the mouting plate thing. since the motor just went bad, u should not have to do any window adjusting.
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