D_Smith87

I purchased a set of these skip white "nkb 200" heads About 7 months ago but due to certain things mostly lack of time, i have not yet had them flowed nor installed on my motor, before we have a drama filled post of nay sayers who say to trash em or get afr's, building a 600 horse 7500 rpm screamer is not my intent, with 250intake and 187exhaust flow @.550 advertised these heads have potential for a street driven 450 horse build with a 6k redline, bought with left over money from my taxes i planned to assemble and slap them on my 081 tpi headed 350 .060 over small block and see how it went but those plans didnt work out, my main reason for this post is too see if anyone else has ran these heads and with what results. My machinist looked them over and gave them the "ok"

Steve Mack

iTrader: (5)

If you still can get your money back and buy a real set of heads.Penny wise pound foolish.

D_Smith87

Thats specifically NOT the type of response i was looking for

antman89iroc

Not familiar with the NKB (new kids on the block? lol) but did run their Pro comp's on a mild 350. I thought the performance was ok and a little better (sotp) than ported stock L98's. However, after somewhere between 3-5k miles I noticed a lot of wear on the valve stem tips and the guides went pretty fast. I can take the valve stem an move it a noticeable amount. They sent me a new set of valves and gaskets but I never put them in but rather bought a set of AFR's for my current build. I'm not saying they're bad but make sure you use good hardware and have it set up right. Maybe not the tip-top performance wise but should give reasonable service and performance.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Check the materials used for valves and rocker studs. Personally wouldnt use the hardware but the castings may check out well enough. Put good brand valves and right springs for your cam and they will be ok

antman89iroc

I had problems during the setup getting the rockers to align on the valves properly. After getting them the best I could and running them a while I discovered the studs they had supplied weren't concentric or straight. After getting a good set of studs the alignment was much better but I think the damage was done. I think the valves were "soft" as well. All of that to agree with what you are saying Orr. The castings are ok structurally, regardless of how they may flow. I think mine were overall better performance but probably suffered at certain flow/load ranges. Your casting may be better but mine had a odd "column" in the intake port to allow for the pushrod. Point being they were "bigger" ports and probably did flow better but sure weren't the best shape. My AFRs looked a lot different in this area but cost over twice as much. If you got em and can put decent hardware in them then they should be good for a moderate street engine.

For example, my forged stroker 414CI, AFR headed, roller cam and valve train "500HP" motor spends most of it's life at part throttle and in the 1500-3000RPM range. Probably doesn't matter what head I'm running until I let her rip!

Steve Mack

iTrader: (5)

He said he doesn't want to here those kinds of answers.He wants it to be all peaches and cream.

project89

iTrader: (1)

the new nkb heads apear to be the same as the assualt heads casting wise, great castings but when u buy them assembled they come with super junk valves springs retainers etc

D_Smith87

Point being i buy heads bare as mine are bare, reason be i can assemble then and i dont care who puts them together, i can feel safe with myself doing the assembling, lots of issues as far as hardware with the pro comps, especially the first generation ones, skip white has a set with premium valves but i prefer my own part selection. Just making a aggressive street motor, gonna have them flowed soon then my machinist (one of my best friends) is gonna do some bowl blending then flow them again. Parts that am matching up is a xr288

D_Smith87

Xr288 hr (retro) 236/242 .520/.540 2500-6000, gonna turn my 4 bolt main .040 over into a 383 via eagle rot. Assembly. All my hardware is matched to that cam, i'll be running pac racing springs rated for .600 lift, as soon as i get them flowed ill be posting results

D_Smith87

385 (.040)pardon the error

D_Smith87

And i agree junk valves and springs are the definition of going backwards and wasting time, between valve float and the potential for a junk 2 piece valve to fly apart and grenade a motor, thats playing with fire i dont even attempt to gamble with, and steve your uneducated ignorant responses is not what anyone here needs, if you are here to troll on a subject you have no experience with, just get out, please and thanks really dont need your crap idiocracy on the subject.

D_Smith87

And studs, ARP is the only route ive ever went, theres places to skimp but never on rocker studs.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The older pro-comps were so/so, better than zz4 heads but not quite as good as trickflow.

I hear the newer castings, like the assault, are very good.


Like he said, buy bare, use good springs.


How much are these NKB 200s now?

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Also look at the proheader castings. 440$ for a pair of bare heads. Very good casting. Speier heads uses them for his budget import programs and likes them more than the darts!

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Link?

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

http://www.proheader.com/Cylinder%20heads.html/

project89

iTrader: (1)

same heads that at are on my car , 399 shipped bare on ebay under the assualt brand , come in proheader boxes