TurbomanKnight

Before I get flamed. I tried using the search but it's not working for me. Everything I try to search coems up with nothing.


Anyways, I've been looking at an 88 GTA with a L98 and 700R4. Now, It has aftermarket Cars and Customs T-Tops. I heard some bad reviews about them. What are their common problems and what should I look for when I go back to look at the car? I looked at it last month, but I really dont remember what I looked at.

Klortho

Well, considering I'm getting ready to cut the top off of my '87 GTA and put a hardtop back on it to get rid of the C&C tops, that should tell you something.

TurbomanKnight

Im thinking about going that route if I end up with this car. But really, what are some of the problems witht he C&C T-Tops.

Jay

iTrader: (2)

They are really no different than standard t-tops. They use a brace on the roof. They leak if the seals are bad... same as factory tops. Visually they are shorter front to back than factory, and the side trim panels are wider.
I have owned a car with them and with factory t-tops.
Cutting the roof off a car to get rid of them is a bit extreme. I'd rather just by a car that was what I wanted to begin with.

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

The biggest problem with them is lack of availible parts. You can get new seals from Hawks, but it will cost you over $300 for them. Compare that with the numerous GM aftermarket seals availible.

They are better designed (IMO) than the GM's as far as water. However you have to be very careful that the channels do not fill up with crud.

They also rattle. A LOT. There is a serious design problem that causes it. When you take the tops off look into the hole where the pin goes. I will bet you cash money that the little piece of plastic that supports the pin has broken off. This causes the pin to hit the metal that braces the plastic peice.

I am currently working on a fix for that problem. For right now I wrapped the pins in electrical tape to cut down on the noise, but I am trying to find a way to glue the plastic pin guides into the braces more permanently.

I wouldn't call it a deal breaker that it has them, but inspect them carefully. If you find a split in any of the rubber it will cost you out your ***, so factor that in when you go to look at it again.

TurbomanKnight

THANK YOU FOR ANSWERING ME!

But however I noticed you said it's about $300 for the weatherstripping from Hawks. Now, I saw this other web site when I did a search and it's like $80 a side.

I really have to call this guy back and schedule a day to go and look at the car again.

Here's a pic I snapped last month.

Klortho

I bought a complete weatherstripping kit from the sunroofdoctor.com it was around 285 bucks and had all the seals, new trim pieces for the inside and the felt strips that go along the front and back. The rattling and squeaking, popping etc etc are one of the reasons I'm going to ditch mine and put it back to hardtop so it will also be a little more ridged as well.

1989karr

it looks the same as a regular t-top to me. DOes anyone have a picture difference between the two?

Jay

iTrader: (2)

I can get one tonight. My friend owns my old IROC that had them. I'm going over there tonight. I can take pics of my current t-tops too.

Aaron is correct about the plastic thing.. I forgot about that. One of mine had that issue but I figured out something for it. I forget what I did at this point.. was like 5 years ago lol. I also adjusted the other one to where they were both pretty tight with no rattles.

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

That bird does most definitly have them. The most immediate way to tell is by looking at the bar above the windshield. On a GM t-top car the bar is about two inches thick, or aproximatly the size of the A-pillars. On a C&C car the upper crossbar is about four inches thick, about twice the size of the GM one.

You can also tell by looking at the handle on the tops. GM is offset, C&C is in the center.

The tops themselves are tinted equaly on the edges whereas most GM's are tinted darker at the edges.

If the tops are off the car, you can easily tell by looking at the weather strip. GM strip is fat: over an inch thick, and butts up close to the roof. The C&C strip is narrow: less than an inch, and has a significant rain trough around it sepperating it from the body.

Like I said, it's not a deal-breaker, but be sure to inspect the car well. Remember to inspect the weather strip where it meets the bottom of the A and B pillars. It is all part of the single peice of rubber so a nick by your mirror will cost you the same as a nick on top.

Also, don't forget to remove the tops, flip them upside down, and check the seal where the top meets the window. I had a hell of a time tracking down a leak above the drivers leg until my brother noticed that I had a gaping hole in that seal. Little Permatex fixed that one right up.

BTW, where is this website selling them for $80? They are most likely only selling you the P-strip, not the set.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

I've got C&C tops on my bird. There are things I like about them, the water channel is very wide and keeps most of the crap out of the car, but they tend to leak where the T-top rubber and the A-pillar rubber meet at the window, if it does leak its usually right onto your left knee.

What i really don't like is that unlike the ASC GM tops there is no adjustment to tighten down the tops to reduce wind noise at highway speeds. And everytime I hear the noise all I can really think about is finding a way to modify the a-pillars to include an adjustment.

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

Probably the same problem. On the left side (as you face it) of the drivers side top, the end of the strip gets roughed up and leaks.

Also check the little rain eave that hangs out over the edge of the top. The seal below it was not designed to take sustained water hit, so if the eave fails it will leak for sure. I had this problem as well due to poor top storage by previous owners (and myself ).