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Factory Bose Aftermarket Head Unit wiring tip

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Old 09-14-2007, 01:56 PM
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Factory Bose Aftermarket Head Unit wiring tip

I just finished installing a Kenwood KDC-MP2035 in my 88 Iroc with factory Bose. Here's a quick tip that might help others out doing the same thing. I'm sure this has been covered, but I wanted to offer it up just in case...

First, my parts list:

Kenwood KDC-MP2035 - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-s351iVI...sp?i=113MP2035

Chevrolet Camaro Kit 1982-Up - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-s351iVI...p?i=120923008P

OEM Amplifier Integration Kit v.4 - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-s351iVI...sp?i=142C4GM01


There will be a pink wire connected to your factory Bose system in its own connector. That wire must be connected to the Power Antenna lead (typically blue or blue/white) on the head unit's wiring harness in order for the factory Bose speaker amps to turn on. That is what supplies the remote turn on signal to the amps. The instructions with the wiring harness don't state that, but after a minute or two of troubleshooting...that is what works.


My factory Bose system was a bit odd.. I have speakers in the dash and in the kicks. The speakers in the dash were not connected to the factory wiring. The connector was just laying behind the factory head unit. So, there were two molex connectors for the "front" speakers that could be plugged into the integration adapter. One was the Bose speakers in the kicks and the other went to the dash speakers. I just left the dash speakers disconnected as they were previously and hooked up the Bose kicks. The one on the passenger side is blown, but I at least have 3 good speakers until I rewire for aftermarket speakers all around. :-)

I also somehow managed to break the rear hatch electronic latch and now my hatch won't latch shut!! I opened it last night to inspect the Bose speakers back there. It shut fine, electronically closed and latched.. but today it seems there's no power going back there at all. No clicks, no motor sound..nada.. And my hatch won't close...grrr...

I thought I'd share the above tip anyhow.


Last edited by jeffcj; 09-14-2007 at 02:38 PM.
Old 10-15-2007, 07:56 PM
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Re: Factory Bose Aftermarket Head Unit wiring tip

Great post. The Bose speakers you installed, did you use the factory wiring harness? I pulled my speakers and the old harness out of a junker 88 IROC and installed in my 92 RS to a Sony CDX-CA720X high power head unit. The stock harness has what looks like a relay of some kind with what looks like all the positive and negative amp lead from the speakers running to it and 3 wires coming out. Black, which I assumed was ground, Red, which I traced back to a constant power source at the fuse box and a pink wire, which I assumed was the trigger wire to tell the amps, via the relay to turn on when the deck is turned on. My deck came with an amp wire which I believe functions the same as the power attena wire as far as signaling the amps that the stereo was turned on. After completing all the connections and firing the stereo up, I was greated with 3 working bose speakers and one that played an aweful earsplitting single tone. It didn't seem to matter which speaker connector I connected that one speaker to, I always got that tone...no music from that one speaker. Could I have a bad speaker amp or could it be that the high power head unit plus the amps is reacting in this manner? Sorry for the long post...just want you to have all the info to help me.
Old 10-15-2007, 08:45 PM
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Re: Factory Bose Aftermarket Head Unit wiring tip

If you tried connecting that one speaker to a different speaker connector (where another speaker works fine on the same connector) I would think it may be a bad speaker amp. Typically the symptom of the high powered head unit driving the amplified Bose speakers would be an "overdriven" speaker sound. You would still have music at very low volume settings on the head unit but as soon as you start to turn it up it gets staticky. I'd guess either a bad amp or amp to speaker connection.
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