TransAmGirl

ok so apparently the carbuator on my 1986 trans am is not the right one for the car also the o2 sensors have been chopped and wired to the car by the previous owner.

What carburator should I try? An edelbrock? Or just a regular rebuilt one? The car runs now if you add gas to the carb but will not start otherwise.

I need a lot of help with this car , but I really like it and want to learn about mechanics. What tools do I need to remove the carb and replace? The car is V8 305 ci lg4 mfi

Thanks!

midias

Depends which way you want to go. Personally I would see what kind of damage was done by the previous owner. Fix the O2 sensors and rebuild or buy a rebuild for the stock Q jet.

Sounds like the fuel pump is not working. Maybe check the relay.

TransAmGirl

Well I guess to fix the o2 I have to replace the entire exhaust and muffler, because the p owner chopped it to a straight pipe. But this has to be done first right b cause the carb should be computerized and o2 sensing? Right now as stated by a shop I went to the carb it has now is not computerized or o2 sensing that is why it acts the way it does. It will stay running just has to have the air get to it. I want to fix it, but it may turn into a money pit. I am hoping the computer is ok.

Thank you

midias

Generally when someone does a non computer carb swap they need to replace the carb, distributor and wire the fuel pump to turn on properly.

Seems like one of these things was not done right.

TransAmGirl

The car was automatic and swapper to manual also. Where do you recommend I start ? Replace the carb and then see what happens? If I try to start it with the wiring in question will it damage the car? Since it has the o2 wires going to the car is that to basically trick the computer to think the mixture is right? I'm new at this.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Post up some pictures of the engine, carb, exhaust and lets see what your working with. A picture is worth 1,000 words you know.

There is a few diff ways to do these swaps and not everybody does them the same. The pics will help us to figure out what you have and how the PO did the swap.

As far as tools.. A good basic set of hand tools will get you started. The most common sizes on sockets and wrenches needed will be..
10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm
3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8"

You will also need torx (star) bits/drivers or sockets in the T15, T20, T25, T30 sizes, and some screwdrivers

TransAmGirl

Alright posted pix to my album.

midias

Not sure what your budget is but this kit is on sale. I own one works great for almost everything

http://www.sears.com/250-pc-mechanic...irectType=SRDT

TransAmGirl

I have a set w some sockets right now. Thanks

TransAmGirl

Nice set! I like it.

TransAmGirl

I noticed you live upstate I went to RIT.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Ok it looks like your car was a factory 4bbl carb car. It should have had an elec feedback style carb on it. Someone got rid of the computer and swapped in a non feedback style carb and HEI dist.

The only running when you pour fuel in carb could be a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

You can remove fuel line from front of carb and place it in a jug/bucket, etc and turn engine over and see if your getting any fuel.. If so it's not the pump

The fuel filter in the Q jet carbs are bad about clogging up as they are just a little small paper filter in the fuel inlet of carb.

Look where the fuel line screws into carb, behind the fuel line fitting is a much larger nut, remove that nut and your fuel filter will be inside that well/hole.

Carb may also be gummed up/dirty on the inside and blocking fuel flow

TransAmGirl

ok cool. So I should just leave this carb on there then?? I will try what you reccomend. Thanks

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Your welcome.

Yeah if you can get it working right then really no reason to change it out. The Qjet is not a bad carb for street use.

Like I said yours may be a clogged filter, or inside of carb clogged and needs to be took apart and cleaned, or a bad fuel pump.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

thats the stock computer controlled HEI. that may give you issues at some being half converted im not sure. my 87 had your engine from a 86 305 at one point, the most over complicated emissions junk gm ever made. if you keep the manual trans, non cc qjet, and put a 70's junk yard hei or aftermarket drop in hei, you can get rid of the computer and all that sensor and tube nonsense. if you get some non emissions headers and start from clean engine and only hook up what you need for the hvac and hei you are left with alot less to deal with when you do have a problem. and you will have way less issues with nothing there to cause leaks

midias

Fun so did I.

Studied at the Kate Gleason College of engineering.

TransAmGirl

Well just for fun, lets say the filter and pump are ok. Will check this weekend. What would I do then? Someone else told me that I need a carb with electronics or a manual kit mounted in the dash because the car basically when you turn the key it's not telling the carb to open close? Is that right?

midias

Sounds like someone was talking about the choke.

Most carbs have choke kits both electronic and manual. My cammed SBC will start without a choke near 32F although it needs some throttle to stay running.

So with that being said you should be able to get it started and keep it running with the gas pedal before you need to worry about a choke.

If you have fuel I would look at the distributor. You need to decided if you are going computer controlled or not. If not then you need a new distributor.

TransAmGirl

Well I was originally thinking of putting the "right" carb on there. But I am worried the electrical is chopped up. So besides the o2 sensors being gone , I think you can see in one of the exhast photos, I am thinking if I get the right carb for the car I will be in a mess. However, I do want to go about the car in the right way. It won't start w the gas pedal only right now, I will check out the fuel pump situation.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

are you saying you need to use the gas to get the car started? all carb cars do.

the cc carb doesnt really do much just helps part throttle cruise. but all the stuff you need to make it work is not worth fooling with.

you are better off getting rid of all the emissions junk than try to put it all back. it does nothing for the cars running but when it gets old it causes poor running headaches. from vacuum leaks, poor connections,etc. there are a million vacuum tubes on the stock car and all of them are a potential leak when you have an older car.

TransAmGirl

Hello all so I am adding a pic to my album of where the fuel filter should have two bolts and has a clamp instead. Is this dangerous um... wondering if I should just sell this baby. Even though I really do like it. The battery is dead so no check f pump this weekend.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

What I see in that picture is right. The filter is in the big part of the carb after the clamp. Let me see if I can google a picture

http://www.vetteprojects.com/kstyer/...vette1_038.jpg
http://www.vetteprojects.com/kstyer/...vette1_087.jpg
http://assets.hemmings.com/story_ima...00-0.jpg?rev=1 see where it says filter

TransAmGirl

Thanks for the help. All this talk about fuel pumps and the fuel pump on my suv up and died. Really random. Anyhow I will post once I check the above mentioned tips. So having clamps on the lines are ok ? That 's good.
Thank you again everyone I really appreciate the advice.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Yeah with a carb'ed engine the fuel pump is under 6 psi and clamps will hold rubber line unto metal line just fine.

Of course factory used metal line with threaded fittings, but as cars get older, people changing parts, replacing things, etc you may end up with a rubber fuel line clamped to a metal line at some point. No harm

TransAmGirl

The issue is untill it is 35 years old I need to pass inspection for plates. I have to add fuel under the hood it will not just start pumping the gas pedal. I agree older lines do go bad and this car has been sitting, but I also want it to be safe as well as fast. I'm just getting into fixing it. Thanks for your reply

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

depends what your inspections involve, here it has to have what it came with to 25yrs then its safety only. if you need emissions inspection and cant find anyone who only looks at the big noticeable stuff like cats then i guess you will have to fix it.

if you meant you have to pour gas in it to get it going i think you are on the right track as night rider said, check out the pump and stuff.

TransAmGirl

Hello I have the new fuel filter and waiting for a new battery for Christmas the current one does not hold a charge well. I know this is redundant but I don't understand if the car runs after I get it stated doesn;t that mean the fuel pump is working? It does more than just start the car correct? I am going to post some images later it seems a number of things are disconnected, I think they are the parts to the air conditioning system but not sure. Thanks happy holidays to all.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

the mechanical pump on the side of the engine takes the fuel from the tank and fills the fuel bowls in the carb. the car should run if it has fuel in the bowls. but if it has been sitting the pump has to run a while before it fills the carb again. it only works while the engine is cranking.

TransAmGirl

ok thanks for the quick response.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Your carburetor is likely boogered.

It is a side intake like the factory carb so there is no reason to run rubber fuel line to it. I'd quickly replace that with the proper metal line from the fuel pump.

You have the factory y-pipe in place so the factory exhaust manifolds should be there. The O2 fitting is in the left manifold, facing forward as it turns down. The bung is there whether the O2 is in it or not.

Please replace the exhaust soon from the 'cat' back. An inexpensive replacement can be had from Dynomax that will factory fit and flow fine for a motor that retains the factory manifolds and Y.

If you keep that carb, it most likely needs a rebuild. If it doesn't start without adding fuel to the throat? Choke, fuel or booster shot. Your photos show the choke open, when cold they should be shut. Try holding them closed with a tie or rubber band. Looks like you have the choke wire connected? The spring inside should keep the choke closed until power to it through that wire heats up the spring inside and causes it to relax.

Pull the throttle back a few times and look (and listen) for a shot of fuel into the primary bores.

The carb could also be leaking through the well plugs and drying out. Add fuel to the bowl (through the vents) without getting any in the throttle bores, then try to start.

Were me, I'd skip all that and tear it apart though.

The disturber you have looks to be the stock unit that will never run optimally without the computer connections (unless there's a vac can on it I don't see?). Keep that carb: replace the dist with one that has mechanical and vacuum advance.

If your vehicle inspection looks under the hood, you have no choice but to reinstall the factory components. Looks like everything you need is essentially there.

Let us know where you need to go and we can help.

And replace that exhaust.