91GTABird

After fighting with GM's fusible links at the starter i just pulled them back and set my own fuse block at the strut tower.

Dont pay any attention to the #10 awg wire feeding them and 30amp fuses. This was temp to see if i could get it going. Ill post a pic or to when i get some #4 or #6 feeding it.

91GTABird

The other

Dirtbik3r

Your install looks very clean, but if I were to do that, I would have used Maxi fuses and heatshrink on your connectors.

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, thumbs down for execution. Thumbs up for idea, although I'm not totally sure of the point.

MrDude_1

same here.

also, you can extend the wires to reach near the battery.
directly next to the battery on the sheetmetal that forms the "side" of the "radiator pocket" you can mount the panel.

doing it this way keeps it from looking out of place... its stil easy to get to, but its not a blob sitting on your strut tower waiting to short between a wrench and the fender........ i know if i was working on the car, id do it eventually... lol.

91GTABird

Thanks for the comments.

Heres the situation though.

1)This HAD to take place 11:00pm last night. I had no other way to work
2)It was 22*F here last night
3) I tried to find MAXI and anything else but i had no luck searching Wal-Mart, Autozone, O'Reillys, and Advanced Auto Parts. They all carried the fuses but NO ONE had any type of fuse holder other than an ATC fuse holder.
4) Thats ALL the wire i could pull out. I tore all the old black wrap off the knock sensor, coolant temp sensor and the fuseible links and still didnt have anywhere else to mount the block other than right there. I did install some new black wrap.

This isnt going to be perm. Its temporary so i could get to work safely without my car melting down. I will post pics this weekend when im off work and have daylight. And yes it does look at of place.

Thanks for you alls comments though

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

Well in that case I guess its rather clever. Those circuits only take 30A fuses? I thought you'd be popping them left and right.

91GTABird

I dont fuse the device. I fuse the wire gauge. I start with the smallest fuse and goes up the largest fuse that the wire can handle. 12awg i fuse at 20amp, 14awg i fuse 15amps, 10awg i fuse at 30amp, etc.

You just hit your 2000th post

Dirtbik3r

Why not replace those fuses with the same amp rating on the fusible links you took out?

MrDude_1

he effectively just did.

Dirtbik3r

-I was just going by what he said.

91GTABird

Given that im an electrician i just have a pet peeve of fusing wire at the least amperage possible. Plus i didnt know what he amperage was on the fusible links.

Duck

Replacing fusible links with fuses is exactly the electrical upgrade I've been wanting to do. Looking forward to your new photos and more detailed how-to.

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

I've did this to my fan circuit, and everyone said "why would you do that, it was designed with a fusible link for a reason". Yeah, the reason is becuase they are cheap. Piece of wire vs. fuse and fuse holder. Theoretically a fusible link would resist a surge, unlike a fuse, but fuses are certainly easy enough to swap and you can get slow blow fuses if you want those AGC fuses.

Also, what does each fusible link supply power to? Just sorta curious what the actual max amperage would be with all accesories/bulbs on.

MrDude_1

they goto the inputs on the fuse panel and the ignition power...

if you want to know specificly, i have the books online here:
http://66.83.134.202/travis/91FbodyWiring
they're in the PDF files labeled dudexx.pdf

Vader

That's pretty much what GM did with their fusible link, too. Most later vehicles have a UEC (Underhood Electrical Center) that eliminates the links and isolates many relays closer to the loads.

Nice job. Now all you need is some decent weather so you can solder the connections, properly insulate and isolate them from weather, and update your diagrams.

For anyone else contemplating this kind of upgrade, a donor car sitting in a bone yard would easily volunteer its UEC for this purpose. You'd get the fuse holders, fuses, some relays, all the proper bussing, and the covers and mounting bracket. Later GM N-Bodies and S trucks have a fairly simple UEC that should solve the problem nicely.

91GTABird

Great Info Mr. Dude

I was curious about whether i should solder the connections or not.


Thanks for compliments. Im gonna be updating this weekend with more pictures.

Dirtbik3r

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 91GTABird
[QUOTE]

No matter which way you go, always use heat shrink! And try to get the kind with the adhesive in the middle, its worth it.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

not really on topic, but I like that fuse block. Could you see a P/N on that for me? I'm pretty sure a nifty little gizmo like that would come in handy, never seen one like it before...

91GTABird

Buss brand
ATC Fuse Panel
15600-06-20
It was like $8 or $10.

Searching, im pulling them up for like $15 but i got it at Oreilly Auto Parts, Memphis, TN. I dont know if yall have them where your at. We dont have PepBoys.

CRAMOS78

couldnt find a more recent thread and i didnt want to start a new one an get a
so.......
i think ive narrowed my problem to the fusible links. ive replaced just about everything (alternator, battery, starter, wiring, etc) except those. i want to use inline fuses.
question, should i put the inline fuses close to where the fusible links were AKA close to the starter?? or place them some where else.
i bought 12 gauge wire inline fuses; that should be ok right?
w/ a 25 to 30 fuse?????

any suggestions would be appreciated!!!!

thanks
carlos

CRAMOS78

hel-low

spills

iTrader: (9)

why not jsut test the fusible links to see if that's indeed the problem? Ive never had a problem with mine, and I would much rather have a few small wires rather than having a junction block.

If you do decide do use the inline fuses, I wouldn't suggest putting them near the starter, or anywhere near the exhaust manifolds/headers for that matter. I think 91GTABird mounted it in a pretty good spot, out of the way and not near any major heat sources.


Keep in mind though, it would be much easier to get your original problem solved before attempting any kind of modifications. That way if there's a problem with your mods, you can eliminate any previous problems that may be the cause. Trust me, I speak from experience Good luck!

CRAMOS78

yeah im gonna test them first, but i really think this has to be the problem. ive changed everything. at first i thought that some of the wires hanging around were causing a short, when i put the new engine it it, i did away with all the unused wiring in the original harness. (though i never touched the wires that went to the starter)
tell u the truth when i fist saw those little cylindrical shaped deals i thought they were some sort of "protection" against it hitting a header/ manifold etc.
when i got the car, one of them looked a little burned. never did it dawn on me it was a freakin fuse!!!
anyone think i can just route the wires to the joint box next to the battery by the radiator????

thanks in advance for any help

CRAMOS78

ok tested the fusible links just like you (spills) suggested and u were right

the links tested out ok, the alternator had power going to it, but no power when the key came on. it was a problem with the wiring and a missing fuse.

Nobies25

I just bought a 89 trans am. I was changing the headlight out and noticed one of the fusible links next to the battery was burnt out, so I cut and stirpped out the two wires one was thicker than the other. I hooked a wire between them an when I started the car the wire began to smoke and melt. I am lost I don't know what this wire goes to? Any help please?
Anyone in the Houston or Pasadena Texas area to provide a little hands on instructions?

spills

iTrader: (9)

hmm, thats a tricky one. Like I said, Ive never had any problem with my fusible links, so I've never had to really diagnose any problems. Did you splice in a regular type of wire? If so, that might be the problem. Fusible links are made differently than regular wire. Try going to the parts store and getting a length of fusible link and splicing that in. If it still smokes after that, start tracing wires. But I would imagine that splicing in a regular insulated wire into a fusible link could cause some smoke.

Come to think of it, I cannot think of any fusible links that go directly to the battery (on mine at least, but it's been slightly re-wired). Is it possible for you to trace it back to see where it goes to? I think there might be one that comes off of the alternator, but IIRC all of mine bolt up to the starter.

CRAMOS78

i think nubies25 is talking about the the link that has an actual fuse in it, right next to the battery. theres is an orange wire and a red wire hooked up by a 25 amp fuse i believe. u probably have a short somewhere.
the wire provides constant power to the electronics. make sure that the wires arent cut and maybe touching the fender or some other kind of ground. thats the only reason i would think of wires to smoke.........