1985chevydude

I've read some posts which were helpful particularly fivesevenkid's and scottmoyer's.I apologize for another post but I feel to get someones opinion/advice I need to write a unique post.

To start I purchased a 350 goodwrench engine(1971 specification style non electronic) and I put some headers and a dress up kit on it.I am not worried about this being emissions legal at all.(I love the environment but for this im turning a blind eye).I purchased the TCI lockup kit for my 700R4 so I can figure out how to keep the lock up torque converter working what my questions are is what fuses/wires/wiring harnesses/electronic changes does one need to make for this to be compatible?
To clarify since my 1985 z28 came with and electronic controlled carbureted 305,and im going to a more conventional style engine what do I do to use my "old style" distributor? Or were and how do I disconnect my "on board computer"?


I also purchased a A/C delete box because my A/C no longer works and I wish to clean up the engine bay. Were/how is this disconnected and can I use my original blower motor? I also purchased a new heater core.




This project is humbling to me as I've done other thinks such as idler arms and various painting, brakes stereos. Small stuff I have a lot of respect for the people that do these jobs. I am lucky that my father is good at this stuff but id like to have a clue so that im not standing around and can have a clue when problems come up. I had some hubris initially because I swapped my original 305 for the exact same style engine and it was cake but this is very different.


I appreciate any help, third gen has always been good to me I hope this post finds everyone in good spirit and good health thank you!

danryanm

I do not know about the lock-up kit, but getting the engine to run is relatively simple. All you really need is a non-computer controlled carburetor and a distributor with vacuum advance. You will want to reuse the temperature sending unit for the gauge, as well as the oil pressure sending unit. Depending on your setup, you can either keep the OE cooling fan switches or just wire the fan to a switched source (mine is wired to come on when the key is in "Run".) The knock sensor, oxygen sensor and all wires related to the carburetor can be removed or taped up out of the way. At this point the computer will have zero control over the engine.

1985chevydude

Appreciate the help!!!!!
Very very helpful,do you know anything about some added bracket that i must afix to the carb becaue im using my 700R4.something like a v/t bracket maybe?

Restrorob

iTrader: (7)

I'm doing the same swap and bought this bracket assembly; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-52126

I haven't installed it yet, but I see no reason for it not to work just fine.....

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Is that bracket for a factory intake? What carb will you be using?

1985chevydude

Im using an edelbroc 600cfm carb with an electric choke i beleive the carb number is 1406????

And im using a edelbrock intake that is an exact factory setup intake its aluminum and i think its a performer.
Thanks again guys

1985chevydude

Ive read on another post here on third gen thst if i dont hook a certain trans cable to a certain bracket my trans will malfunction and be ruined.had anyone heard of such an occurence???

And do i do heater core now or no?!? Sorry for being so scrambled im just excited

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

If your engine is out might as well knock the heater core out. And yes for an auto trans you need a hook up for the tv cable.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

you will need the proper linkage kit for the kd cable. holley, edel, quad i believe are all different. monster.com has the kits for 20 bucks. its a must or you will/can burn your tran or it wont shift right. monster also has some good videos in youtube.

You will need a new blower motor. I believe the one you have is too big. You can try Night rider327 for any part really.(except the kd bracket)

The style intake /carb you need depepds on what carb/intake you have.

Be very careful with the heter core. you can easily bend/crack a solder where the tubes plumb into the core. Make sure you sop up any water/antifreeze thats down near the blower box or inside.it will cause your glass to fog all the time.

good luck!

Restrorob

iTrader: (7)

The bracket kit I posted mounts to the intake manifold mounting bolts therefore should work with any intake, It states it will work with TH350/TH2004R and TH700R4 trans, the separate cable brackets are fully adjustable to the main bracket to cover many applications...... I'm run'n a Performer intake and a Q-jet since I've been building them over 30 years.....

1985chevydude

Ok thanks,
So i better grab a new blower motor because the original A/C one wont fit.

Sounds good

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Yes, that bracket is fine. but you NEED the proper linkage kit. This bolts to your carb and corrects the geometry so it pulls the kd cable the proper distance. with out it you will have early shifts and if its completely wrong, you WILL destroy your transmission.

I have read that the blower motor you have now is too big. yes, you will need to get the smaller one. Again, Night rider327 should/may have he blower. He has tons of other parts. Look his name up and pm him.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...holly&_sacat=0

1985chevydude

ok I seen on summit a tv cable kit and I see it has some linkage items in the kit so I think I will go that route

1985chevydude

just to be safe though,thier is no way I can use my current bracket that is attached to my original 305's intake? I know now that I need that geometry corrector thanks to you guys.But can I reuse the actual bracket that bolts to the intake?

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

The one you have should be fine. You MUST get the geometry corrector. imo

1985chevydude

Ok understood that makes sense

1985chevydude

Update!


so the engine is out and trans I've cleaned up some of the road grime, and ive removed the passenger seat and kick panel.


How do I remove the electronic control wiring harness? ive been told its somewhere in the kick panel area but is their like a main plug I pull to take it out as one?I still need the ignition,lights and so on to work so I don't want to ruin that.
any help appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

The ecu wiring plugs into the computer which is located under the dash and kick panel on pass side. The wiring then passes through the sheet metal body of car on pass side (it's right before the front wheel opening, behind the fender, next to where the radio antt. cable goes through at)

Then up through the pass fender at the rear next to firewall and over into the engine bay

1985chevydude

Ok thankyou!!!

Since i have my engine out and my heater core hoses off i was gunna do the heater core aswell.
I see a black box.
Does anyone know if i just take this box out will the heater core just come down?

1985chevydude

Do happen to know how to set up my electric fan now with the old style engine?
I got the harnesa and a/c and heater core out now

1985chevydude

Getting thier,<br/>Strip down is done!

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Looking good!
If I were you I would contact Edelbrock and tell them the part numbers of the carb and intake and that you need the correct throttle corrector and brackets (All of the necessary parts) for a 700r4. The radius, distance etc., all must be correct. IIRC, it's not only the radius but that the pull changes through the range. It also must be adjusted correctly and tested. I see countless threads on many boards about this particular carb but no agreement on the specific parts needed and I don't think you've even posted the part number for the intake. Make sure you research and know what you're doing. I've had shops reset mine and they did it wrong so I had to reset it again so it was adjusted correctly. These cars aren't as common these days so many shops lack knowledge unless they specialize on the matter.
Also, if the intake is a stock replacement or similar then why not keep the stock exhaust manifolds? It may be worthwhile returning that for an airgap or something similar.
I would reuse the original TV cable unless it's worn or damaged. Research the proper set up procedure and make sure that the cable is maxed out at the same time the throttle horn is at max, IIRC, supposed to be done via the pedal not at the carb. You'll see when you find the correct threads explaining it.

I hope you're just replacing the heater core, you'll need it to keep the windshield from fogging etc.

Assuming that you're reusing the accessories you simply swap them over along with the wiring. The extra wiring can be tucked back into the wiring loom. If you cut any wires make sure to cut them at an offset and tape them so there is no chance for a short. the alternator should go back as it was originally.
You may have to cut back the old AC bracket for the headers as they still have to be used for the power steering. An '85 carb should still have the old school fan clutch so no wiring needed there.
Oh, with headers you'll want to watch for clearances for brake lines etc. sometimes even the line by the K-Member iirc.