marineengineer

So I am gutting a 1996 Road Master to upgrade my 92 Z-28. I have the engine and transmission, PCM and wiring harness {engine compartment to the Dash board with all connectors} and the Radiator. Is there anything else that I should remove before sending the car to recycle? I am in no rush to get rid of the RM just yet [The bride is not complaining YET]

tealman92

Does the road master tranny have a provision for the torque arm mount like a fbody 4l60e does?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Honestly, I would do a regular 350 with mild cam and better intake than go through a LT1 swap.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Personally, if possible, I'd keep the donor until your car was running the way you want it to.

It doesn't, but the 3rd gen housing should swap over. It didn't change until the LS 4L60E.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I'd do the LT1 swap. Better engine and transmission.

Buddy

There is a member on here that did that almost exact swap years ago into his '86 Iroc. It was fairly mild, but ran in the 12's at like 114. He did an amazing job, it looked like the car came from the factory like that. Also did a 6 speed swap before they became common.
Maybe bump him a PM. 6speedIROC. A really great guy too, he'll answer all your questions.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Not really

tglennon11

iTrader: (2)

ive done the lt1 swap, it would have made certain things like hose routing easier had i had a donor car. Mine came out of a 94 fleetwood. If you arent in rush keep it around until you have yours running.

While you are at it, i would look into the benefits of changing to OBD1, the tuning is much cheaper by using sties like fbodytech.com rather than finding OBD2 software

As for a 350 swap instead, if you want to go FI the LT1 is pretty straightforward. I love mine, BUT i could see the benefits of finding a 1pc rms block, vortec heads, edelbrock intake and a good cam.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I said it because it's true.

You can't get an SBC EFI that works as well as the LT1 without spending more money than getting an LT1.

The 4L60E is superior hands-down to a TH700R-4.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I'm just not a fan of the opti-spark and a few other things on the LT even though there are solutions to ditch the opti, $$$. I def wouldn't spend the money on a iron headed LTswap for the minor drivability and HP gain (over a 350 tpi) even if it was given to me.

The E-trans a step better as far as control goes no doubt.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The early Optisparks had an issue if they got wet. The '95-later had a draw-through dry vent system that doesn't have that issue. I had a water pump leak that got my '96 Opti all wet, 3 years later it's still fine.

The issues with the iron headed LT1s were more weight and less cam than the aluminum headed versions. Weight isn't a big deal. The cam is easy enough to fix. The iron heads flow just as good as the aluminum heads.

LT1/TA

That sounds like a great project, i would keep the roadmaster until the swap is completely done. I know the power steering pressure line will be another thing to take off.

I am currently doing the same thing,I am putting an Lt1 in my 88 sport coupe.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Yup, keep the donor car as long as possible until everything is working the way you want it to. There will most likely be a lot of little things on the donor car you'll need that you normally wouldn't think you needed.


Also dumb question but did you check the displacement stamp to see that it's a LT1 and not the L99?