Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
01-23-2016, 12:19 AM
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
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Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Before summer hits this year, I want to replace the steering and suspension components on my third gen. One of the things I noticed last year when turning somewhat sharp is I hear this "popping" sound in the passenger side front wheel. Most of the time is when I'm backing out and turn the steering sharp. I'm thinking it's the lower ball joint but can't really tell (I jacked up the side and could not pull or tug on the wheel in up or down movement). Another thing I looked at were the strut mounts on both side. As far as I can tell, the rubber looked very good--it just had some caked on dirt I scraped off. After further inspection, I'm thinking the shocks were replaced at some point recently. The brand looks like "SensaTrac" I think? The bouncing/rebound I think is fairly bad as I would want to replace the shocks/struts.
At any rate, I think it's time to replace some parts. My budget is $300 for all new steering components and both shocks and struts. I'm hoping to NOT go over that.
* Inner/outer tie rods (x4)
* Center link
* Idler arm
* Lower ball joint (x2)
* Shocks (x2)
* Struts (x2)
In the first pictures below, you'll see the strut mounts rubber. I'm not sure how else to check these other than the rubber looking good/bad. I don't see any Zerk fitting to grease any bearing--not sure. The other pic you'll see the steering components and how nasty they look. And then lastly, you'll see the "SensaTrac" shocks/struts that are installed all around. They look fairly new as I think the previous owner replaced them before because they are definitely not stock, right?
Last question, Is there anything else that could contribute to the "popping" sound when turning? The ONLY other thing I think it could possibly be is the lower control A-arms bushings? They didn't look too bad as the rubber bushings seemed okay. I guess I could try tightening up the bolts just to make sure.
At any rate, I think it's time to replace some parts. My budget is $300 for all new steering components and both shocks and struts. I'm hoping to NOT go over that.
* Inner/outer tie rods (x4)
* Center link
* Idler arm
* Lower ball joint (x2)
* Shocks (x2)
* Struts (x2)
In the first pictures below, you'll see the strut mounts rubber. I'm not sure how else to check these other than the rubber looking good/bad. I don't see any Zerk fitting to grease any bearing--not sure. The other pic you'll see the steering components and how nasty they look. And then lastly, you'll see the "SensaTrac" shocks/struts that are installed all around. They look fairly new as I think the previous owner replaced them before because they are definitely not stock, right?
Last question, Is there anything else that could contribute to the "popping" sound when turning? The ONLY other thing I think it could possibly be is the lower control A-arms bushings? They didn't look too bad as the rubber bushings seemed okay. I guess I could try tightening up the bolts just to make sure.
01-23-2016, 12:25 AM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I guess these "Sensatrac" struts are MONROE brand. Honestly...I think they're trash.
01-23-2016, 12:37 AM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Looking at autozone and oreily's, I couldn't find that great of pricing it seems. A subtotal of almost $200 for everything I need at Oreily's. Sheesh!!... 
On the other hand, there's some nice kits on ebay that include everything for about $100!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351534730411?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
On the other hand, there's some nice kits on ebay that include everything for about $100!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351534730411?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
01-23-2016, 01:19 AM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
For struts and shocks, I think I'm going to go with KYB.
The lowest price I found for all struts and shocks is $135. Not bad!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-KYB-Excel-...lU9ytM&vxp=mtr
The lowest price I found for all struts and shocks is $135. Not bad!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-KYB-Excel-...lU9ytM&vxp=mtr
01-23-2016, 07:11 AM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I to have that popping sound when I turn sharp and am going slow. I had the front end checked and it all was good, Mine may be that I have 18's and wide tires on the front.
For your front end parts I would use Moog or Fed. Mogul. That $100 kit probably ain't worth melting down for that cheap china steel! I know from ex. I needed a ldler arm and they were out of the Moog part. I bought one of those $30 cheapos and replaced it a year later. American steel or China steel....there is no comparison!
As for the shocks, I like KYB but those Excel models are about the same as the stock shocks. they won't be much of an upgrade. I have the KYB gas-adjust on the rear and the AGR adjustable for the struts. You will have to go over budget for this but you will be much better off in the long run. IMHO
For your front end parts I would use Moog or Fed. Mogul. That $100 kit probably ain't worth melting down for that cheap china steel! I know from ex. I needed a ldler arm and they were out of the Moog part. I bought one of those $30 cheapos and replaced it a year later. American steel or China steel....there is no comparison!
As for the shocks, I like KYB but those Excel models are about the same as the stock shocks. they won't be much of an upgrade. I have the KYB gas-adjust on the rear and the AGR adjustable for the struts. You will have to go over budget for this but you will be much better off in the long run. IMHO
01-23-2016, 05:32 PM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I'm not sure what else the popping sound could be from. I doubt its the bushings in the lower control arms because I think the lower ball joint is changing its position the most through the articulation.
As for the $100 kit that is a very good note depending on if they're the "china" junk. I'm willing to take the chance. I'm usually pretty good about greasing ball joints to make them last. It just seems pretty hard to justify getting steering components if I could make these ones last longer. I think the reason why they're so cheap is because they're offered in a kit versus getting them individually.
Ya I think I'll try the KYB. If they last 50,000 miles like they advertise--I think the $135 is a great deal. I'm not trying to go better than stock as I really want to just restore my suspension--which I think will be VERY easy coming from these crappy monroe shocks.
I only put probably about 5000 to 8000 miles on my third gen during the summer months. So at that rate I think I can get about 10 years of usage from both the shocks and steering components.
As for the $100 kit that is a very good note depending on if they're the "china" junk. I'm willing to take the chance. I'm usually pretty good about greasing ball joints to make them last. It just seems pretty hard to justify getting steering components if I could make these ones last longer. I think the reason why they're so cheap is because they're offered in a kit versus getting them individually.
Ya I think I'll try the KYB. If they last 50,000 miles like they advertise--I think the $135 is a great deal. I'm not trying to go better than stock as I really want to just restore my suspension--which I think will be VERY easy coming from these crappy monroe shocks.
I only put probably about 5000 to 8000 miles on my third gen during the summer months. So at that rate I think I can get about 10 years of usage from both the shocks and steering components.
01-23-2016, 06:33 PM
#7
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Speaking from experience, those eBay kits are not worth the labor it takes to install them. I had a guy insist on going with one and he was replacing it with real components in 6 months. He wasted money by paying labor twice. But hey, it's your car. The KYBs will be fine for a stock suspension summer cruiser.
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01-23-2016, 11:20 PM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Interesting points, guys. I emailed multiple ebay sellers asking about their warranty. I'll try and feel them out.
01-24-2016, 08:15 AM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I forgot to mention, I added a wonderbar from TDS. That made a world of difference in not just the "popping" sound but the overall "creeking noises that come from the front end. $75 well spent on this item.
01-24-2016, 11:10 AM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Before you go blindly replacing parts that you "think" are bad, you need to check this stuff properly. To inspect the ball joints and steering components, you need to jack the car up and support it on jack stands from the front control arms. Just jacking the car up off the k member or subframe places these parts under tension from the springs, and you won't be able to detect play in the components.
Grab a front wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and push/pull the tire to check play in the lower ball joint. If you feel play, verify it by having someone else do the same while you grab the ball joint. If it isn't in the bj, check the strut. Do the same at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions to check the steering components with the steering column locked. Take a look at the front brakes too. I have had some strange noises come from there I wouldn't have originally guessed to have been brake related in the past.
For these cars it's Moog, AC Delco, or bust on anything with a ball joint. I wouldn't waste my time with anything else. Just because part stores have a lifetime warranty on their house brand no-name stuff doesn't mean it's good. It just means they'll give you another part. Look at the customer service and return policy for that ebay kit you posted. That should be a clear indication that what they are selling is junk.
For buying parts, I start by going to www.rockauto.com
They always have a 5% off discount code:
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
Copy and paste this in the "how did you hear about us" box and keep an eye on the shipping charges. I have a cart full of Moog stuff right now and it's all coming out of the same warehouse so we're off to a good start.
Then, go to http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/home
Navigating their site in general just sucks. Put in your car's make and model, select your store and use the Moog part number you get on Rock Auto's site and it should bring them up. Put it in your cart even though it is way more money than RA. If it isn't showing up in your store's inventory, you will have to pick another nearby store who has it or else sometimes you can get the store to order the parts in for you so you can use the discount code the next day when the part is in their inventory, but most stores will give you a hard time about it.
Then go to http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com and grab the discount code that will save you the most money. Sometimes, I throw cans of brake clean in my cart to hit the $20 off $50 purchase because it makes it even cheaper than just using a 20% off my $41 order and I'm getting free cans of brake clean (as long as they are not on sale, otherwise the discount code will not apply). If they have the stuff in stock you can pick it up same day. Advance is hard to beat with the great discount codes that are offered, and if it's in stock the parts are in your hands same day.
If you have a week to wait for shipping, RA is great. Sometimes ebay sellers and Amazon will have unbeatable prices too on good parts. Shop around, it's all worth checking out when you're on a tight budget.
This is how I do things. Hope this helps.
Grab a front wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and push/pull the tire to check play in the lower ball joint. If you feel play, verify it by having someone else do the same while you grab the ball joint. If it isn't in the bj, check the strut. Do the same at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions to check the steering components with the steering column locked. Take a look at the front brakes too. I have had some strange noises come from there I wouldn't have originally guessed to have been brake related in the past.
For these cars it's Moog, AC Delco, or bust on anything with a ball joint. I wouldn't waste my time with anything else. Just because part stores have a lifetime warranty on their house brand no-name stuff doesn't mean it's good. It just means they'll give you another part. Look at the customer service and return policy for that ebay kit you posted. That should be a clear indication that what they are selling is junk.
For buying parts, I start by going to www.rockauto.com
They always have a 5% off discount code:
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
Copy and paste this in the "how did you hear about us" box and keep an eye on the shipping charges. I have a cart full of Moog stuff right now and it's all coming out of the same warehouse so we're off to a good start.
Then, go to http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/home
Navigating their site in general just sucks. Put in your car's make and model, select your store and use the Moog part number you get on Rock Auto's site and it should bring them up. Put it in your cart even though it is way more money than RA. If it isn't showing up in your store's inventory, you will have to pick another nearby store who has it or else sometimes you can get the store to order the parts in for you so you can use the discount code the next day when the part is in their inventory, but most stores will give you a hard time about it.
Then go to http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com and grab the discount code that will save you the most money. Sometimes, I throw cans of brake clean in my cart to hit the $20 off $50 purchase because it makes it even cheaper than just using a 20% off my $41 order and I'm getting free cans of brake clean (as long as they are not on sale, otherwise the discount code will not apply). If they have the stuff in stock you can pick it up same day. Advance is hard to beat with the great discount codes that are offered, and if it's in stock the parts are in your hands same day.
If you have a week to wait for shipping, RA is great. Sometimes ebay sellers and Amazon will have unbeatable prices too on good parts. Shop around, it's all worth checking out when you're on a tight budget.
This is how I do things. Hope this helps.
01-24-2016, 11:13 AM
#11
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Popping sound on mine is the upper passangers side strut mount.. while standing there watching as someone else in the car turned the wheel, listening and looking for slop.. I found that, When the rubber changes direction in that one, it pops... Did this with new and old bushings..
+2 on the above post
+2 on the above post
01-24-2016, 05:16 PM
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
TY is right, its the cost of the labor that will get you even if they warranty the parts. If your idler arm is lose as you posted replace it with a good one. Check the ball joints and if one is bad then replace both. I would not replace parts that don't need replacing with inferior parts. The old saying holds true here...If It Ain't Broke Don't Fix It.
I forgot to mention, I added a wonderbar from TDS. That made a world of difference in not just the "popping" sound but the overall "creeking noises that come from the front end. $75 well spent on this item.
I forgot to mention, I added a wonderbar from TDS. That made a world of difference in not just the "popping" sound but the overall "creeking noises that come from the front end. $75 well spent on this item.
Before you go blindly replacing parts that you "think" are bad, you need to check this stuff properly. To inspect the ball joints and steering components, you need to jack the car up and support it on jack stands from the front control arms. Just jacking the car up off the k member or subframe places these parts under tension from the springs, and you won't be able to detect play in the components.
Grab a front wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and push/pull the tire to check play in the lower ball joint. If you feel play, verify it by having someone else do the same while you grab the ball joint. If it isn't in the bj, check the strut. Do the same at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions to check the steering components with the steering column locked. Take a look at the front brakes too. I have had some strange noises come from there I wouldn't have originally guessed to have been brake related in the past.
For these cars it's Moog, AC Delco, or bust on anything with a ball joint. I wouldn't waste my time with anything else. Just because part stores have a lifetime warranty on their house brand no-name stuff doesn't mean it's good. It just means they'll give you another part. Look at the customer service and return policy for that ebay kit you posted. That should be a clear indication that what they are selling is junk.
For buying parts, I start by going to www.rockauto.com
They always have a 5% off discount code:
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
Copy and paste this in the "how did you hear about us" box and keep an eye on the shipping charges. I have a cart full of Moog stuff right now and it's all coming out of the same warehouse so we're off to a good start.
Then, go to http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/home
Navigating their site in general just sucks. Put in your car's make and model, select your store and use the Moog part number you get on Rock Auto's site and it should bring them up. Put it in your cart even though it is way more money than RA. If it isn't showing up in your store's inventory, you will have to pick another nearby store who has it or else sometimes you can get the store to order the parts in for you so you can use the discount code the next day when the part is in their inventory, but most stores will give you a hard time about it.
Then go to http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com and grab the discount code that will save you the most money. Sometimes, I throw cans of brake clean in my cart to hit the $20 off $50 purchase because it makes it even cheaper than just using a 20% off my $41 order and I'm getting free cans of brake clean (as long as they are not on sale, otherwise the discount code will not apply). If they have the stuff in stock you can pick it up same day. Advance is hard to beat with the great discount codes that are offered, and if it's in stock the parts are in your hands same day.
If you have a week to wait for shipping, RA is great. Sometimes ebay sellers and Amazon will have unbeatable prices too on good parts. Shop around, it's all worth checking out when you're on a tight budget.
This is how I do things. Hope this helps.
Grab a front wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and push/pull the tire to check play in the lower ball joint. If you feel play, verify it by having someone else do the same while you grab the ball joint. If it isn't in the bj, check the strut. Do the same at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions to check the steering components with the steering column locked. Take a look at the front brakes too. I have had some strange noises come from there I wouldn't have originally guessed to have been brake related in the past.
For these cars it's Moog, AC Delco, or bust on anything with a ball joint. I wouldn't waste my time with anything else. Just because part stores have a lifetime warranty on their house brand no-name stuff doesn't mean it's good. It just means they'll give you another part. Look at the customer service and return policy for that ebay kit you posted. That should be a clear indication that what they are selling is junk.
For buying parts, I start by going to www.rockauto.com
They always have a 5% off discount code:
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
Copy and paste this in the "how did you hear about us" box and keep an eye on the shipping charges. I have a cart full of Moog stuff right now and it's all coming out of the same warehouse so we're off to a good start.
Then, go to http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/home
Navigating their site in general just sucks. Put in your car's make and model, select your store and use the Moog part number you get on Rock Auto's site and it should bring them up. Put it in your cart even though it is way more money than RA. If it isn't showing up in your store's inventory, you will have to pick another nearby store who has it or else sometimes you can get the store to order the parts in for you so you can use the discount code the next day when the part is in their inventory, but most stores will give you a hard time about it.
Then go to http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com and grab the discount code that will save you the most money. Sometimes, I throw cans of brake clean in my cart to hit the $20 off $50 purchase because it makes it even cheaper than just using a 20% off my $41 order and I'm getting free cans of brake clean (as long as they are not on sale, otherwise the discount code will not apply). If they have the stuff in stock you can pick it up same day. Advance is hard to beat with the great discount codes that are offered, and if it's in stock the parts are in your hands same day.
If you have a week to wait for shipping, RA is great. Sometimes ebay sellers and Amazon will have unbeatable prices too on good parts. Shop around, it's all worth checking out when you're on a tight budget.
This is how I do things. Hope this helps.
But on the brand aspect, I'm actually starting to consider something different. MOOG seems like a very good brand but I'm also considering Mevotech.
Popping sound on mine is the upper passangers side strut mount.. while standing there watching as someone else in the car turned the wheel, listening and looking for slop.. I found that, When the rubber changes direction in that one, it pops... Did this with new and old bushings..
+2 on the above post
+2 on the above post
Camaro86irocz, when you are talking about the new and old bushings popping, are you referring to lower control arm bushings? I thought the strut mounts have a bearing in them and not a bushing. What do you mean exactly?
01-24-2016, 10:45 PM
#13
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
"But I will need to be more aggressive in how I have the car on jack stands when I'm pulling and tugging on the wheels to see any end-play popping noises."
I find it makes the noise more realistically with the full weight on the ground, car running, someone turning the wheel back and forth, while I carefully crawl around the car watching everything move..
"Camaro86irocz, when you are talking about the new and old bushings popping, are you referring to lower control arm bushings? I thought the strut mounts have a bearing in them and not a bushing. What do you mean exactly?"
On mine, the upper stock style strut mount does have the bearing, but you'll notice with the dust cover off, it also has rubber between it and the mount, when the wheel turns from left to right, the angle of the strut changes and the rubber flexes in the mount to compensate, making it go, POP..
I find it makes the noise more realistically with the full weight on the ground, car running, someone turning the wheel back and forth, while I carefully crawl around the car watching everything move..
"Camaro86irocz, when you are talking about the new and old bushings popping, are you referring to lower control arm bushings? I thought the strut mounts have a bearing in them and not a bushing. What do you mean exactly?"
On mine, the upper stock style strut mount does have the bearing, but you'll notice with the dust cover off, it also has rubber between it and the mount, when the wheel turns from left to right, the angle of the strut changes and the rubber flexes in the mount to compensate, making it go, POP..
01-25-2016, 12:48 AM
#14
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Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
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Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
"But I will need to be more aggressive in how I have the car on jack stands when I'm pulling and tugging on the wheels to see any end-play popping noises."
I find it makes the noise more realistically with the full weight on the ground, car running, someone turning the wheel back and forth, while I carefully crawl around the car watching everything move..
"Camaro86irocz, when you are talking about the new and old bushings popping, are you referring to lower control arm bushings? I thought the strut mounts have a bearing in them and not a bushing. What do you mean exactly?"
On mine, the upper stock style strut mount does have the bearing, but you'll notice with the dust cover off, it also has rubber between it and the mount, when the wheel turns from left to right, the angle of the strut changes and the rubber flexes in the mount to compensate, making it go, POP..
I find it makes the noise more realistically with the full weight on the ground, car running, someone turning the wheel back and forth, while I carefully crawl around the car watching everything move..
"Camaro86irocz, when you are talking about the new and old bushings popping, are you referring to lower control arm bushings? I thought the strut mounts have a bearing in them and not a bushing. What do you mean exactly?"
On mine, the upper stock style strut mount does have the bearing, but you'll notice with the dust cover off, it also has rubber between it and the mount, when the wheel turns from left to right, the angle of the strut changes and the rubber flexes in the mount to compensate, making it go, POP..
I cannot tell if it's the lower ball joint or the POS strut.
Basically when I'm pushing and tugging on the 12-oclock position it clunks. I disconnected the tie rod just to rule out anything steering since I already know my idler arm is bad. The ball joint in the tie rod isn't super tight, but it seems OK with a little bit of resistance (same with the inner tie rod). I'm wondering if that means it's on it's way out and doesn't have long to live.
01-25-2016, 07:45 AM
#15
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Does it really matter? You will have it all apart, and Im sure it all needs it. Replace the ball joints, struts, and strut mounts and be done with that part. Shoot I would even replace the A-arm bushings, then you should be good for several years without needing to touch any of that again. No reason to only replace one thing, just to replace the other next year and have to have another alignment done. Don't let it cost you more in the long run just to save another $100 now.
Moog Strut mounts were $50 each IIRC, KYB struts another $40, Moog ball joints $14, and the bushings were about $20 total. That's $228ish and you shouldn't have to unbolt those spindles again for several years.
Moog Strut mounts were $50 each IIRC, KYB struts another $40, Moog ball joints $14, and the bushings were about $20 total. That's $228ish and you shouldn't have to unbolt those spindles again for several years.
01-25-2016, 09:09 AM
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Car: 2002 Camaro SS
Engine: Built LS
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I'm with 3rdgenmaro on this. If you are going to be taking it apart to replace wear items, you should just replace them all and have one alignment done at the end.
01-25-2016, 10:14 AM
#17
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 3.27 Posi
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I redid my whole front suspension and it was still kinda noisey, etc. It wasn't until I swapped calipers/brake lines that most of my noise went away on the front end. Guess they were stickin!
01-25-2016, 03:44 PM
#18
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: lt1 10 bolt 3.23
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Yeah, just replace everything without tracking down the actual culprit. That's a good way to go. I get replacing the wear items while you're in there, but I've seen guys with S10 pickups replace everything in the their front steering and suspension chasing a clunk that doesn't go away because the noise was coming from their hood hinge all along.
01-26-2016, 12:46 AM
#19
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
After taking apart more components today, I found that the sway bar links were not all that tight. The bushings I'm GUESSING are polyurethane? I can't tell--but its VERY hard plastics and they're all cracked/deformed which is why they weren't that tight. I believe the stock sway bar links are supposed to be made out of rubber. Anyways, see picture below. I broke one side (typical) and was lucky enough to get the other long bolt off. I think I'll just get the rubber stuff and not polyurethane.
I'm planning on doing the rear shocks as well plus idler arm. The control arm bushings are something I haven't considered yet. I will have to look into those. It's just a matter of carefully lowering the A-arm without the spring flinging out.
That reminds me! I should do my rubber brake lines. One wheel grabs first when I hit the brakes sorta hard and is very annoying.
I've worked in a few shops quite a while ago, and I was always taught to figure out where the failed part is. It's the principle of finding what's broke to know for sure that it's fixed, and fixed right when replacing parts. I'm not going to replace something for the sake of it--unless it needs it. Sure, if something is questionable then I'll simply replace it granted it isn't outrageously expensive.
Does it really matter? You will have it all apart, and Im sure it all needs it. Replace the ball joints, struts, and strut mounts and be done with that part. Shoot I would even replace the A-arm bushings, then you should be good for several years without needing to touch any of that again. No reason to only replace one thing, just to replace the other next year and have to have another alignment done. Don't let it cost you more in the long run just to save another $100 now.
Moog Strut mounts were $50 each IIRC, KYB struts another $40, Moog ball joints $14, and the bushings were about $20 total. That's $228ish and you shouldn't have to unbolt those spindles again for several years.
Moog Strut mounts were $50 each IIRC, KYB struts another $40, Moog ball joints $14, and the bushings were about $20 total. That's $228ish and you shouldn't have to unbolt those spindles again for several years.
Yeah, just replace everything without tracking down the actual culprit. That's a good way to go. I get replacing the wear items while you're in there, but I've seen guys with S10 pickups replace everything in the their front steering and suspension chasing a clunk that doesn't go away because the noise was coming from their hood hinge all along.
01-27-2016, 06:25 AM
#20
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Replacing everything blind chasing is one thing, replacing a component that could use it while you are there is something else. I.E. the control arm bushings. Probably could go without replacing them (unless for some reason that is your noise), but if you are replacing ball joints, the bushings are 2 bolts away and $15 per side. ( I was wrong on price earlier) Bushings are wear items. If they are still original, it would take a lot for anyone to justify to me not replacing them.
Jack up the front and put a jack stand under the A-Arm. Have a buddy take a crow bar or a 2x4 and put it under the tire moving up and down. You should be able to see then if it is the ball joint flexing or the strut mount. And with the sway bar disconnected now, you might be able to rule it out or point your clunk to it.
I may have missed it in the above posts, but does your idler arm have noticeable play?
Jack up the front and put a jack stand under the A-Arm. Have a buddy take a crow bar or a 2x4 and put it under the tire moving up and down. You should be able to see then if it is the ball joint flexing or the strut mount. And with the sway bar disconnected now, you might be able to rule it out or point your clunk to it.
I may have missed it in the above posts, but does your idler arm have noticeable play?
01-27-2016, 05:03 PM
#21
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: lt1 10 bolt 3.23
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I would go with polyurethane energy suspension end links. I have had them on my fox for about 10 years now and they are holding up fine. I actually just bought a set for my 88 Camaro to replace whatever the split ones are that are on it and have the box sitting right here, pn 9.8117g fwiw...
The p.o. replaced the rear end links, they are like new with Ramcoa bushings. Those bushing are rock hard. I have the axle out of the car so energy ones are replacing those too. I think the wonder bar would be a great addition, just don't buy a Spohn one as they have fitment issues. I put a stock IROC wonderbar on our 91 Z28 without touching anything else and couldn't believe how much better the front end of the car felt. This same car had a lot of front brake noise coming from the front right wheel. I fixed it, and it was easy stuff. Can't remember all of what I did, was probably 6 years ago now.
A friend of mine had a 91 Formula that pulled like nothing I had ever seen because of a bad front flex hose.
The p.o. replaced the rear end links, they are like new with Ramcoa bushings. Those bushing are rock hard. I have the axle out of the car so energy ones are replacing those too. I think the wonder bar would be a great addition, just don't buy a Spohn one as they have fitment issues. I put a stock IROC wonderbar on our 91 Z28 without touching anything else and couldn't believe how much better the front end of the car felt. This same car had a lot of front brake noise coming from the front right wheel. I fixed it, and it was easy stuff. Can't remember all of what I did, was probably 6 years ago now.
A friend of mine had a 91 Formula that pulled like nothing I had ever seen because of a bad front flex hose.
01-29-2016, 03:36 PM
#22
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Replacing everything blind chasing is one thing, replacing a component that could use it while you are there is something else. I.E. the control arm bushings. Probably could go without replacing them (unless for some reason that is your noise), but if you are replacing ball joints, the bushings are 2 bolts away and $15 per side. ( I was wrong on price earlier) Bushings are wear items. If they are still original, it would take a lot for anyone to justify to me not replacing them.
Jack up the front and put a jack stand under the A-Arm. Have a buddy take a crow bar or a 2x4 and put it under the tire moving up and down. You should be able to see then if it is the ball joint flexing or the strut mount. And with the sway bar disconnected now, you might be able to rule it out or point your clunk to it.
I may have missed it in the above posts, but does your idler arm have noticeable play?
Jack up the front and put a jack stand under the A-Arm. Have a buddy take a crow bar or a 2x4 and put it under the tire moving up and down. You should be able to see then if it is the ball joint flexing or the strut mount. And with the sway bar disconnected now, you might be able to rule it out or point your clunk to it.
I may have missed it in the above posts, but does your idler arm have noticeable play?
As far as the bushings, they seem okay. But I'm starting to lean towards doing them as well. My only concern is the spring flinging out. I remember seeing a youtube video showing a technique that clowny1969 did.
I would go with polyurethane energy suspension end links. I have had them on my fox for about 10 years now and they are holding up fine. I actually just bought a set for my 88 Camaro to replace whatever the split ones are that are on it and have the box sitting right here, pn 9.8117g fwiw...
The p.o. replaced the rear end links, they are like new with Ramcoa bushings. Those bushing are rock hard. I have the axle out of the car so energy ones are replacing those too. I think the wonder bar would be a great addition, just don't buy a Spohn one as they have fitment issues. I put a stock IROC wonderbar on our 91 Z28 without touching anything else and couldn't believe how much better the front end of the car felt. This same car had a lot of front brake noise coming from the front right wheel. I fixed it, and it was easy stuff. Can't remember all of what I did, was probably 6 years ago now.
A friend of mine had a 91 Formula that pulled like nothing I had ever seen because of a bad front flex hose.
The p.o. replaced the rear end links, they are like new with Ramcoa bushings. Those bushing are rock hard. I have the axle out of the car so energy ones are replacing those too. I think the wonder bar would be a great addition, just don't buy a Spohn one as they have fitment issues. I put a stock IROC wonderbar on our 91 Z28 without touching anything else and couldn't believe how much better the front end of the car felt. This same car had a lot of front brake noise coming from the front right wheel. I fixed it, and it was easy stuff. Can't remember all of what I did, was probably 6 years ago now.
A friend of mine had a 91 Formula that pulled like nothing I had ever seen because of a bad front flex hose.
01-30-2016, 12:16 PM
#23
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
floor jack under the ball joint. Remove caliper, then unbolt the strut. Step out of the way and slowly lower the jack. Ive done several like that with no issues. Can always take a short piece of chain and bolt it to the car and the spring if you are worried.
01-30-2016, 01:13 PM
#24
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
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Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Oh btw, after further inspection on the a arm bushings, the rubber looks all cracked on the outside. So I think I want to get some urethane bushings for performance. The best price I found was $45 for the front set at AutoZone. Rock auto doesn't have the energy suspension brand or any urethane bushings that I could find. Maybe I can check out eBay more.
01-30-2016, 08:42 PM
#25
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
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Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Good news. I got both lower control arms off. The spring on the right side popped out at me a little bit--but it didn't go far. No big deal.
In the first picture, you can see all the cracks in the bushings. Doesn't look too good. Even more so when you look at the second picture because you can tell the roll pin is closer to one side than the other meaning the bushing is no longer in the middle per se.
Just as a cool side note, the third picture I was able to actually clean up the little stickers on the spring. It reads:
BZX
14029398
I'm guessing the BZX is an RPO code and the 140.. is the part number. Kind of neat I think.
I'll be ordering replacement parts soon.
In the first picture, you can see all the cracks in the bushings. Doesn't look too good. Even more so when you look at the second picture because you can tell the roll pin is closer to one side than the other meaning the bushing is no longer in the middle per se.
Just as a cool side note, the third picture I was able to actually clean up the little stickers on the spring. It reads:
BZX
14029398
I'm guessing the BZX is an RPO code and the 140.. is the part number. Kind of neat I think.
I'll be ordering replacement parts soon.
01-31-2016, 10:56 AM
#26
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Good news. I got both lower control arms off. The spring on the right side popped out at me a little bit--but it didn't go far. No big deal.
In the first picture, you can see all the cracks in the bushings. Doesn't look too good. Even more so when you look at the second picture because you can tell the roll pin is closer to one side than the other meaning the bushing is no longer in the middle per se.
Just as a cool side note, the third picture I was able to actually clean up the little stickers on the spring. It reads:
BZX
14029398
I'm guessing the BZX is an RPO code and the 140.. is the part number. Kind of neat I think.
I'll be ordering replacement parts soon.
In the first picture, you can see all the cracks in the bushings. Doesn't look too good. Even more so when you look at the second picture because you can tell the roll pin is closer to one side than the other meaning the bushing is no longer in the middle per se.
Just as a cool side note, the third picture I was able to actually clean up the little stickers on the spring. It reads:
BZX
14029398
I'm guessing the BZX is an RPO code and the 140.. is the part number. Kind of neat I think.
I'll be ordering replacement parts soon.
01-31-2016, 02:59 PM
#27
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
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Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Pm sent
02-04-2016, 12:17 AM
#28
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
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Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
This evening my old boss and I were working after hours on the control arm bushings. These things were practically RUSTED in there. We used PB blaster and tried pressing them out as best as we could. So we ended up having to heat up the bushings and cave the bushing housing in on itself to get the metal piece out.
If you look in the second picture you see that the two ears on the control arm are a little bit bent. I think this happened by trying to budge the bushings out as best as we could. We were successful using the press with two of the four bushings. The other two we heated up the bushing itself at then pushed out the rubber. Once out, we used a chisel and hammered it out.
The one side looks the worst. Then the others not so much.
Do the control arm ears look bad at all, or will it be okay putting in a new bushings? Possibly TRY bending it back?..or compromised?
If you look in the second picture you see that the two ears on the control arm are a little bit bent. I think this happened by trying to budge the bushings out as best as we could. We were successful using the press with two of the four bushings. The other two we heated up the bushing itself at then pushed out the rubber. Once out, we used a chisel and hammered it out.
The one side looks the worst. Then the others not so much.
Do the control arm ears look bad at all, or will it be okay putting in a new bushings? Possibly TRY bending it back?..or compromised?
02-05-2016, 12:03 AM
#29
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I wish I saw klowny's video again before hand, but I finally found the post and video I remembered about.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-bushings.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-bushings.html
02-06-2016, 01:26 AM
#30
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Here's an update on my control arms. I took two hardened washers and a bolt with two nuts. Then I took them and used them to spread apart the "ears" or "lips" on the lower control arm. This was actually somewhat successful. They now line up. My only concern with the one control arm are the two bushing holes coinciding with each other. I feel like they might bind up on one another. They look close but not so much.
I'll take a better picture tomorrow showing what I mean exactly. But as of now, here's one showing that they're for the most part even now.
I'll take a better picture tomorrow showing what I mean exactly. But as of now, here's one showing that they're for the most part even now.
02-06-2016, 07:16 AM
#31
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Car: 87' IROC
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I'm doing my a arm bushings as well. Amazon has the energy bushings for under 30.00.They also have the moog and fed mogul parts front end parts at good prices!
Last edited by SOCAL-Z; 02-06-2016 at 07:29 AM.
02-06-2016, 07:43 AM
#32
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I went with the Del a Lum Global West bushings and am very happy with them...
As for sturt mounts I first ordered AC Delco and on 2 different sets, the bearings were not smooth, ordered Moog, no problem... then I went and ordered Founders Caster/Camber plates anyway for more adjustability...
As for sturt mounts I first ordered AC Delco and on 2 different sets, the bearings were not smooth, ordered Moog, no problem... then I went and ordered Founders Caster/Camber plates anyway for more adjustability...
02-06-2016, 07:52 PM
#33
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I went with the Del a Lum Global West bushings and am very happy with them...
As for sturt mounts I first ordered AC Delco and on 2 different sets, the bearings were not smooth, ordered Moog, no problem... then I went and ordered Founders Caster/Camber plates anyway for more adjustability...
As for sturt mounts I first ordered AC Delco and on 2 different sets, the bearings were not smooth, ordered Moog, no problem... then I went and ordered Founders Caster/Camber plates anyway for more adjustability...
02-06-2016, 08:02 PM
#34
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I went with the Del a Lum Global West bushings and am very happy with them...
As for sturt mounts I first ordered AC Delco and on 2 different sets, the bearings were not smooth, ordered Moog, no problem... then I went and ordered Founders Caster/Camber plates anyway for more adjustability...
As for sturt mounts I first ordered AC Delco and on 2 different sets, the bearings were not smooth, ordered Moog, no problem... then I went and ordered Founders Caster/Camber plates anyway for more adjustability...
Even thought the center link doesn't wear, the bolts didn't look easy to get off on my old one so I just ordered the Spohn extreme duty kit and will replace everything from tie-rod to steering box. Incluided in that are poly sway bar bushings and new poly end-links since my existing ones look worn.
The goal is to get as close to the precision found in my Focus ST steering rack where just a degree of steering wheel movement results in action at the wheels.
Last edited by Thirdgen89GTA; 02-06-2016 at 08:06 PM.
02-06-2016, 08:07 PM
#35
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
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Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I was real impressed with the painting from taking a wirewheel and sanding everything down. Cleaned up alot of suspension parts including the A-Arms. One can of $.98 gloss black spray paint works WONDERS.
Okay..so what I'm trying to describe in my pictures are the lips on the lower control arm. When comparing the two, you see that one lip is bent a little bit more. From the looks of this, it doesn't look like it lines up necessarily to the other side of the bushing holes on the same control arm. I feel like this will make the bushings work against each other since they won't align up. Knowing that they're off a little bit, will this make both bushings work harder and possibly wear out not coinciding with each other perfectly?
I'm not a suspension expert, but I'd think the two bushings need to line up and coincide with the axis of movement. What do you guys think? Hopefully you can see from my pictures. Is it that big of a deal being off like 1/8th inch?
Okay..so what I'm trying to describe in my pictures are the lips on the lower control arm. When comparing the two, you see that one lip is bent a little bit more. From the looks of this, it doesn't look like it lines up necessarily to the other side of the bushing holes on the same control arm. I feel like this will make the bushings work against each other since they won't align up. Knowing that they're off a little bit, will this make both bushings work harder and possibly wear out not coinciding with each other perfectly?
I'm not a suspension expert, but I'd think the two bushings need to line up and coincide with the axis of movement. What do you guys think? Hopefully you can see from my pictures. Is it that big of a deal being off like 1/8th inch?
02-06-2016, 08:08 PM
#36
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I was real impressed with the painting from taking a wirewheel and sanding everything down. Cleaned up alot of suspension parts including the A-Arms. One can of $.98 gloss black spray paint works WONDERS.
Okay..so what I'm trying to describe in my pictures are the lips on the lower control arm. When comparing the two, you see that one lip is bent a little bit more. From the looks of this, it doesn't look like it lines up necessarily to the other side of the bushing holes on the same control arm. I feel like this will make the bushings work against each other since they won't align up. Knowing that they're off a little bit, will this make both bushings work harder and possibly wear out not coinciding with each other perfectly?
I'm not a suspension expert, but I'd think the two bushings need to line up and coincide with the axis of movement. What do you guys think? Hopefully you can see from my pictures. Is it that big of a deal being off like 1/8th inch?
Okay..so what I'm trying to describe in my pictures are the lips on the lower control arm. When comparing the two, you see that one lip is bent a little bit more. From the looks of this, it doesn't look like it lines up necessarily to the other side of the bushing holes on the same control arm. I feel like this will make the bushings work against each other since they won't align up. Knowing that they're off a little bit, will this make both bushings work harder and possibly wear out not coinciding with each other perfectly?
I'm not a suspension expert, but I'd think the two bushings need to line up and coincide with the axis of movement. What do you guys think? Hopefully you can see from my pictures. Is it that big of a deal being off like 1/8th inch?
02-06-2016, 09:33 PM
#37
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I was real impressed with the painting from taking a wirewheel and sanding everything down. Cleaned up alot of suspension parts including the A-Arms. One can of $.98 gloss black spray paint works WONDERS.
Okay..so what I'm trying to describe in my pictures are the lips on the lower control arm. When comparing the two, you see that one lip is bent a little bit more. From the looks of this, it doesn't look like it lines up necessarily to the other side of the bushing holes on the same control arm. I feel like this will make the bushings work against each other since they won't align up. Knowing that they're off a little bit, will this make both bushings work harder and possibly wear out not coinciding with each other perfectly?
I'm not a suspension expert, but I'd think the two bushings need to line up and coincide with the axis of movement. What do you guys think? Hopefully you can see from my pictures. Is it that big of a deal being off like 1/8th inch?
Okay..so what I'm trying to describe in my pictures are the lips on the lower control arm. When comparing the two, you see that one lip is bent a little bit more. From the looks of this, it doesn't look like it lines up necessarily to the other side of the bushing holes on the same control arm. I feel like this will make the bushings work against each other since they won't align up. Knowing that they're off a little bit, will this make both bushings work harder and possibly wear out not coinciding with each other perfectly?
I'm not a suspension expert, but I'd think the two bushings need to line up and coincide with the axis of movement. What do you guys think? Hopefully you can see from my pictures. Is it that big of a deal being off like 1/8th inch?
02-06-2016, 10:26 PM
#38
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Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Check out this video, it has some tips on how to get new bushings in easily, even without a press.
How to install Del-a-lum bushings from Global West in a lower A-arm Part2 - YouTube
How to install Del-a-lum bushings from Global West in a lower A-arm Part2 - YouTube
I might try monkey'ing around with it more to get it more straight. If I can't do anything else then good, I won't worry about it.
02-07-2016, 12:31 PM
#39
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Nice video. I need to remember to add a piece of metal in between the ears to make sure they don't collapse or bend when pushing in the new bushing.
Okay cool! I'm glad you answered this. I wanna say that this driver side lower control arm was made on a Friday while the passenger side was made on a Thursday. But that's okay I guess.
I might try monkey'ing around with it more to get it more straight. If I can't do anything else then good, I won't worry about it.
Okay cool! I'm glad you answered this. I wanna say that this driver side lower control arm was made on a Friday while the passenger side was made on a Thursday. But that's okay I guess.
I might try monkey'ing around with it more to get it more straight. If I can't do anything else then good, I won't worry about it.
02-08-2016, 02:10 PM
#40
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
That's good information to have about the distance between one of the A-arm ears...but what about the other one? The two ears are two difference sizes.
02-13-2016, 10:22 PM
#41
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
In the first picture is my idler arm in a vice. I actually was able to spin it all around and it seemed to be loosening. That's when I noticed that, Hey! This thing isn't a bearing? Anyone else ever stumble upon this style of idler arm? I'm guessing you grease the thing periodically since the grease pushes out by like a cork-screw effect. Very strange and seems sloppy.
At any rate, my parts finally came in from RA!!! Also, shout-out to 3rdgenmaro. I also was able to wire-wheel my LCA and paint them as well as the springs and sway bar. Now I just need to put in the bushings.
BTW...I like how the MOOG parts and energy suspension parts I got are all made in USA. Seems very fitting for my Van Nuys built Camaro.
:usa:
At any rate, my parts finally came in from RA!!! Also, shout-out to 3rdgenmaro. I also was able to wire-wheel my LCA and paint them as well as the springs and sway bar. Now I just need to put in the bushings.
BTW...I like how the MOOG parts and energy suspension parts I got are all made in USA. Seems very fitting for my Van Nuys built Camaro.
:usa:
02-13-2016, 10:38 PM
#42
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
So when I got my bushings, all the dowels and rubbers were pushed in. In case anybody EVER runs into this, OR needs to re-grease their already installed bushings, these actually come out VERY easily with a simple puller that won't damage anything too.
In the next picture you'll see me greasing the dowels AND the outer part of the bushing...wherever the rubber touches metal. The type of grease that's supplied is a silicon base. I can also tell this grease is probably PTFE impregnated. Not much different than the silicon base dielectric grease. The stuff is VERY sticky and you can't really wash it off--moreso you have to wipe it off.
In the next picture you'll see me greasing the dowels AND the outer part of the bushing...wherever the rubber touches metal. The type of grease that's supplied is a silicon base. I can also tell this grease is probably PTFE impregnated. Not much different than the silicon base dielectric grease. The stuff is VERY sticky and you can't really wash it off--moreso you have to wipe it off.
02-16-2016, 12:38 AM
#44
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Yes, I believe they are the rear control arms and the panhard bushings as well. I'm real glad you included the instructions with pre lube too. I'll do the rear bushings once I take care of the front.
02-16-2016, 01:52 PM
#45
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I finally got the bushings and balljoint installed in my LCA. It was quite a task. All but one bushing went in relatively easy. I ended up having to use sand paper around the contact holes and smooth out the bores as much as I could. The actual hardest part was getting in the ball joints! I had to first initially pound the joint in with a hammer and try and line it up. The knurling on the OD BJ seemed quite a bit larger than the ID of the LCA. When we had it chocked up in the press it seemed to want to flex the entire LCA and BARELY go in.
One thing I ended up having to do is grind down the bevel on the BJ and make more of a chamfer because the edge was hanging up on the LCA and not aligning correctly. You can see in the second picture but it is covered with a little bit of grease. Something to keep in mind if anyone has trouble with this.
I'm almost ready to install everything back in!
One thing I ended up having to do is grind down the bevel on the BJ and make more of a chamfer because the edge was hanging up on the LCA and not aligning correctly. You can see in the second picture but it is covered with a little bit of grease. Something to keep in mind if anyone has trouble with this.
I'm almost ready to install everything back in!
02-21-2016, 05:07 AM
#46
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Nice work, very glad I read your post. I'm about to get into my front end. Ball joint is bad, lots of bad bushings. Good time for a linkage refreshment. Time to replace it all. Could you provide the p/n for the bushings and parts that you are using (maybe a pic of invoice would work)? It would be a great help and much appreciated. And how does the quality of it all seem to you? Again 
on all that, hope it takes care of your noises.
on all that, hope it takes care of your noises.
02-22-2016, 12:28 AM
#47
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Nice work, very glad I read your post. I'm about to get into my front end. Ball joint is bad, lots of bad bushings. Good time for a linkage refreshment. Time to replace it all. Could you provide the p/n for the bushings and parts that you are using (maybe a pic of invoice would work)? It would be a great help and much appreciated. And how does the quality of it all seem to you? Again on all that, hope it takes care of your noises.
on all that, hope it takes care of your noises.So far it's been these:
2 MOOG ball joints: P/N K6145T
1 MOOG idler arm: P/N K6249
2 MOOG Sway Bar End Links: P/N K700532
2 KYB front struts: P/N 236001
2 KYB rear shocks: P/N 343211
Energy Suspension Front LCA bushings: P/N 3.3157
The ball joints I got seemed to fit rather tightly as the knurling I think made it difficult to line up. The idler arm I got seems very good and is different than the screw type idler arm that was originally on the car. I just need to remember to grease it once I'm done with everything. The sway bar end links seem like they're very hard polyurethane plastic material instead of the squishy rubber stuff...interesting. Other than all that, I got the LCAs installed in the car. Passenger side LCA was probably the most difficult. During installing the LCAs, putting them in the K-member shaved off a little rubber on the bushings because of the sharp edges. I tried filing them down to make re-installation easier. Now all I need to do is get the springs back in the car. This has proven to be the most tricky part for me right now. I'm trying to use a breaker bar but I think I'm missing a technique. I read a post on TGO somewhere with a good tip on installing front springs. This will be my goal for tomorrow.
02-22-2016, 03:14 AM
#48
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Thanks, that's a good start. I found a thread. Aw boom boom, I can't paste it. I'll have to post it after I get home. Or just type in search "front spring install ", it's the first one. Does require a compression tool. Could rent one, his post shows ez hook placement for an ez install.
02-23-2016, 08:18 PM
#49
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Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I got both springs in! It was just easier to get a spring compressor rather than fighting with a crowbar and the LCA.
On my first picture I used the "OEM Coil Spring Compressor." P/N 27035. This tool was rented from AZ for an easy fee of $55--and I have 90 days to return it.
So...some notes about this spring compressor. It is a grenade filled with nitroglycerin! Meaning, any sudden movement or impact force on the thing, and it will explode. Luckily this only happened to me...twice. Once in the pocket as I was trying to index the coil, and the other on the ground. This spring compressor I guess is a "universal" one and pretty much barely gets the job done for these springs. I would rate the tool a 3.5/5 stars.
This does take a certain technique and proper compressor tool placement on the spring coils. What I found worked was placing the tool on a bias side of the coil, more-so this would put a little bit more tension on the "keyed spring" side of the coil to help fit within the grooves of the LCA (in between the two holes on the LCA--important). You also have to grab the tangs and grab as much spring as you can to compress it as a whole. Once the top of the spring is in it's pocket and indexed correctly on the lower, I then had to get a jack on the LCA with it almost extended to release the tool. Then jacked up the LCA all the way home free until the balljoint can find the steering knuckle.
MAKE SURE TO WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES AND GLOVES. This tool with its sporadic nature can cause injury and will kill you. I would almost suggest wearing a helmet...
Treat the ends of the coil as an end of a SG barrel. So don't stick hands or heaven forbid your face anywhere close to them when the compressor tool is "loaded."
Tomorrow I'll hopefully have the other strut in. Then I can put the dust cover on the lower BJ and start greasing once all the steering linkages are hooked up.
On my first picture I used the "OEM Coil Spring Compressor." P/N 27035. This tool was rented from AZ for an easy fee of $55--and I have 90 days to return it.
So...some notes about this spring compressor. It is a grenade filled with nitroglycerin! Meaning, any sudden movement or impact force on the thing, and it will explode. Luckily this only happened to me...twice. Once in the pocket as I was trying to index the coil, and the other on the ground. This spring compressor I guess is a "universal" one and pretty much barely gets the job done for these springs. I would rate the tool a 3.5/5 stars.
This does take a certain technique and proper compressor tool placement on the spring coils. What I found worked was placing the tool on a bias side of the coil, more-so this would put a little bit more tension on the "keyed spring" side of the coil to help fit within the grooves of the LCA (in between the two holes on the LCA--important). You also have to grab the tangs and grab as much spring as you can to compress it as a whole. Once the top of the spring is in it's pocket and indexed correctly on the lower, I then had to get a jack on the LCA with it almost extended to release the tool. Then jacked up the LCA all the way home free until the balljoint can find the steering knuckle.
MAKE SURE TO WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES AND GLOVES. This tool with its sporadic nature can cause injury and will kill you. I would almost suggest wearing a helmet...
Treat the ends of the coil as an end of a SG barrel. So don't stick hands or heaven forbid your face anywhere close to them when the compressor tool is "loaded."
Tomorrow I'll hopefully have the other strut in. Then I can put the dust cover on the lower BJ and start greasing once all the steering linkages are hooked up.
02-23-2016, 08:48 PM
#50
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Found it, phone and pc searches different. Anyways, looks like you have placement down for the tool, this article shows good placement on the spring too. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...y-install.html Now that you're half way there lol.