Gumby

probably get more eyes on whats goin on here.... [ over my 10 yr old build thread in V6 section, you can catch up to this point in it https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...ll-over-4.html ]

Rust in the LCA area pushed the decision to install BMRs with the Alstons I already have. Biggest factor, my doors still open and close nice with good gaps so as much as the cancer has eaten away, the body is still firm. So at this point im "removing" the floor pan as a criticle frame member.

Now for the fun stuff, the BMR do not match up well with the frame in the front. [ right side ] Using a jack to force contact just makes the whole thing twist. so on the edge of the frame section where its double thick metal I drilled two hole up through and into the floor. Ill use a large thick plate for a sandwich. So that will hold it firmly square, ill slice just enough so the rest of the pad can bend up to touch then weld city???

after a nights sleep tempted to add a 3rd bolt, sort of triangulating the clamping force. Bolt in BMRs?

Gumby

OK so im not committed to the nut house yet but I am to building the first bolt in BMR SFC as a hippie once said "just go with it man".


The clamping forces will be much stronger then welding the BMR L pad to the frame per design.

IM using 1/8 in plate to extend the area to fully cover the frame for clamping.

Ill be adding a 2nd piece that extends out that will be for a 4th bolt that will pass through the frame, again to provide good clamping force. [ plates will be welded to BMR, not the car ] n ill upgrade to grade 8 stuff too.

Now just some quick crap in ms paint, added the 3rd bolt on the pad, show the leg out for pass through bolt.

Call me crazy but after lying under it the last 3 days it makes the most sense over just welding as I can see it.

Gumby

Well here is the leg, using half a piece from and old shackle lift kit. Nice n thick/strong and already drilled

Just kinda sitting in there proper up with a stick but you get the idea im goin for.

Now just to start burning things in, then bolt it up.

then fix the rust holes in the floor pan oh and reroute / redesign the exhaust routing...

Gumby

Lots of progress but nothing I can show just yet, still lots of big holes, yet none of them matter anymore. Well atleast on the right side of the car... Just not digging how things look just yet, I bough some heavy rust encapsulating primer [ over reg primer ] just because the color tag on the can was grey not red. That should blend right into the factory colors and looks like I never did anything........... pop the lid and its fricking brick red.......

to late to hassle n complain about it, gotta use it.

Gumby

Well i may have gone over board with the 16G sheet metal i bought. Takes a 5lb sledge to "form" it. Just gonna use it for the flat areas that doesn't need lots of shape

Gumby

Final mock up for the right side, and now the exhaust.....

Gumby

exhaust sneak peek, pretty much the same as before, but I had to cut it back to near the O2 sensor to run it out straight then come down the side. It won't be look at me red for long, ill get tired of that n hose it down with hi temp black.

but I had to get it mostly done as I have to turn it around to work on the drivers side n get that BMR on that side put on, big tree stump on that side of the drive blocking me good access.

Gumby

Oops forgot i have it set so the cherry bomb is the lowest part of the car. So ill hear it scraping before anyrhing else...

Gumby

Couple of floor pics, man I hate the brick red, looks kinda heavy but I smoothed / sealed every single seem, hole, patch, rivet nut bolt.... even the speed holes in the seat bracket. I used about 25 yards of that sticky aluminum tape then a 2nd heavy coat of the heavy rust primer. [ some odd lumps from about 10 years ago when I put bondo over pin holes I fixed, still sealed an holding, so I left them ] only reason I went digging in the first place was exhaust fumes getting in some where, being a right side exhaust, im not gonna smell fumes this time around. Gonna be so seal up it will float like a boat.....

Gumby

Well it holds water like a boat.


ive taken a step backwards of sorts. Right side is all done but the weather is foul. Went looking for something i left in it and i see an inch of water in the front pass floor section WTF and no wonder. Where the hell is water getting in the car grrrrrrrrr. That confirms my plan to use a truck bed coating kit i got just sitting around that will be used on the floor. Most car seem to rust from the inside out once you explore, dame jute padding and carpet are like a spongue. Shoot maybe not even put it back in. Just bate floor with rubber mats?

Gumby

Someone up there likes me. The drivers side was a cake walk, LCA bolt came right out, drilled all the holes, got the tab welded to SFC for the 4th bolt. And then it starts to rain. Ok enough for one day that took two weeks on the other side...

Gumby

Small window of opportunity so i dumped a gallon of muric acid all over the drivers side floor. Ohhh boy it makes ugly rust look not so bad for about 3min then it flash rust again. Picking up more phosphoric acid tomorrow that will convert the rest into a nice paintable surface.

Gumby

After muric acid [ flash rust ]

After phosphoric acid [ main ingredient in soda pop ]

Driver side BMR final mock up, same as the right. I can see the light finally.

Just finish sealing and painting floor [ epoxy bed liner ], fix up wiring, put carpet and interior back in, then go rattle some windows with the Cherry Bomb

Gumby

Same as the right side, 16G sheet covers the floor area, then 1/8in plate to complete the sandwich that bolts the BMRs on in the front. [ same coat of heavy rust primer, then aluminum tape, then another coat ] I didn't need to cover the whole front floor area in the 16G sheet, but since it was flat [ not contoured shaped like the right side ] I just did the whole area.

Gumby

Final thoughts, I really feel that bolt in is way better then welding, once you spend enough time on your back under one, see how its all just thin formed sheet, with spot welds, the 3 bolt sandwich, 4th leg bolt will ensures a much better hold. I will flog the **** out of it and watch for any sign of movement but doubt I will see any. Just like the bolt in Alston's, they were spot on solid.

86White_T/A305

Looks like a good amount of work but I dig how nice the car is turning out. I need to replace both floor pans in my car asap.I plan on buying replacements from hawks and just cut/weld new ones in and then do sfc's.just soo many to choose from bolt I like the bolt in option first and then weld once everything is perfect.

Gumby

seems like it would be hard in the way that so much is "spot welded" to the floor pans to replace them whole. OR I might have spent the cash for a whole new floor.

86White_T/A305

Yes I can see your point but for all the spots that id either have to patch or replace here and there.it would be easier to just remove the seats.Cut/drill out from the rear seat are forward and drop in the replacement.Also a good time to put in sfc's and add more strength to the car.