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U-Joint and Trans Question

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Old 11-30-2001, 07:11 PM
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U-Joint and Trans Question

I am having the U-joints replaced in my daily driver 85 Chevy Caprice. Will having the drive shaft out make it much easier to get into the transmission pump seal, to replace the seal ? I was thinking of having the mech replace the leaky trans pump seal while he has the driveshaft out, but if he still has to pull the trans I suppose it would still be a couple extra hours of labor, right ?
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Old 11-30-2001, 09:00 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The driveshaft has to be removed to remove the transmission, and the transmission has to be removed to replace the front pump seal. So, in a sense, having them done together is the right thing to do. Whether it will cost you less vs. having them done separately - probably a moot point, since pulling the tranny is going to cost a lot more than just doing the u-joints.

You could also justify having the fluid and filter replaced, and replacing the trans mount at the same time using the same logic.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
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