cj599

I have a mark iv 454 I been building I already have the rotating assembly its a scat set up with +3.00 cc pistons, I know now that I should have got some domes anyway im shooting for around 450-550 hp well in that neighborhood anyway more would be great but im a poor **** guy that makes 11.75 an hour,

bore 4.280 in
stroke 4.250in
cylinder head volume 98cc's
dome volume +3.00cc's
deck clearance ??? so I put 0
gasket .030
v8 comes out to be 10.28:1, 489.17ci, 8019.18cc's

question 1 : on deck clearance the block is untouched the deck was good and square so we left it alone, would that be 0?

#2 I was looking at heads 60489 made by edlebrock would they run the numbers im after for a street drivin, occasionaly drag raced 1986 sport coupe with a 4l60 or 4l80 or are their any stock castings that will keep a good compression ratio

#3 giving a set of heads ie the 60489's what cam would be good I cant afford a roller unless some one wants to give one away

thanks in advance for my lack of decision making skills 6 years ago when I bought the internally balanced 489 kit with +3.00cc pistons -cj

cj599

I also plan on running efi and large headers im goin to build my self maybe 2.0 " or 2 1/4" primary's possibly around a 1000 cfm throttle body port injected

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Probably not; more likely, something in the neighborhood of .030". Your compression will be in the high 9s somewhere, MAX. Worst mistake you can make is to NOT accurately, honestly, and non-optimistically MEASURE the deck clearance. Which of course is easy enough to do by measuring the rotating parts and adding up their "height", then measuring from the deck to the mains to determine the block "height". No excuses for NOT doing that.

Guessing at the dimensions of your engine and then posting compression numbers out to 2 decimal places is the mark of a n00b about to be surprised and disappointed.

Those are decent enough street heads; not going to make "the most" power, but should be OK for your stated goals, if all else is done right. (including properly measuring the dimensions related to compression, and choosing an appropriate cam)

There are no stock heads that would be a good match for this build. The old trick we all used to use of putting 396 heads on a 454 will not work with that much compression. There's A WORLD of difference between a 9.2:1 454 and a 9.7:1 489, on pump gas.

If you "can't afford" a roller, you probably "can't afford" EFI either. ebay is your friend. Look for someone else's failed project for the lifters.

I would strongly suggest a custom cam. Off-the-shelf cams are often perfectly good for off-the-shelf situations (think, 454 w 120cc OC heads and 18cc domes), as really smart people at the various companies have usually done a pretty good job of figuring out what works well in the common combos. (no, I'm not talking about Summit cams, or any similar 40-yr-old generic designs) Your combo, NOT being an everyday ordinary frequently seen mix of parts, is NOT likely to be well optimized by ANY off-the-shelf cam. In a $4000 or whatever build, "saving" $100 on the cam is about as smart as sticking a pistol down your shorts and pulling the trigger.

I would NOT go larger than 2" on the headers for the rest of your combo. You will not turn enough RPM to derive any benefit from anything larger. Similarly, 1000 CFM TB is on the large side; 800-850 is all you will use. A larger one will just make it difficult to drive on the street, even if it gives up acoupla tenths of a HP on the big end; reason being, a TINY opening of a large TB results in a HUGE burst of air, meaning, you go from idle to full blast with th eleast motion of the throttle you can manage. You end up with a really "twitchy" car that gets terrible gas mileage and is hard to drive on wet streets because you have such poor control over it.

cj599

sorry to annoy you ive never had to calculate that, and I can afford efi I have most the items I already need as far as cam and lifter I can save and get them I was just hoping I could make the numbers with a flat tappet

also the cam for a popular build I've been kind of of following and is similar to my build uses 266/272@.050 303/309advertised 0.678 intake .688 ext with 110 sep comp cams custom grind 249-819-16 but that build is a 496 and has dommed pistons

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Only thing that annoys me that you said, is the poor-mouth. I get so sick of getting beat over the head with that on this site, it's worse here than any other site I visit except maybe certain kinds of people on the truck boards. As if, I'm looking to profit by a percentage off of your spending or some such, and have some kind of incentive to get you to spend money that won't do you any good. Well, it has often been said, that only a wealthy hobbyist can afford to buy cheeeeep parts; and that's because when you cheeeeep out on something critical you have to spend more somewhere else to take up the slack in order to meet your goal, and because cheeeeeep parts fail more than better ones causing you to have to buy the same part twice, and because cheeeeep parts tend to leave you shy of your goals even though they "look like" they're "enough" on paper.

At some point, ya wanna play, ya gotta pay. Cheeeeeping out kinda loses its advantages when your project turns to shrapnel the first time you try to use it, or you think you're going to get 750 HP but the car dynos in the 300s. (Yes it happens) Best policy is, buy NOTHING and instead save up, if you can't buy the right thing the first time. Cheeeeeeeep parts twice is more $$$ than good parts once.

That aside:

You probably won't have enough compression for that much cam; although until you actually measure stuff and come up with accurate numbers instead of guessing, it's impossible to know for sure.

Yes 819 is the Comp part # for one of their solid roller lifters for BBC. I don't really see anything in your build that demands solid rollers, though, especially not RPM capability; IMO a hyd one would be far less trouble and still accomplish everything you want.

Might want to lurk over on the Chevelle boards, specifically the Performance forum. That's where the most BBC knowledge hangs out. I think you'll see real quick that what you're doing isn't a real popular combo, and as such, things that work well in other combos, may not be ideal for yours.

You can probably "make the numbers" with a flat cam. Been done plenty of times. Problem of course being, those are extremely risky in this day and time; and when they fail, they generally take out cam, lifters, crank, bearings, and sometimes other parts as well. If you "can't afford" a roller, which basically eliminates all of that risk, you probably also "can't afford" to rebuild a freshly built motor because a cam lobe got rolled off and filled your motor with metal chips, and THEN make it a roller because the flat-tappet failure felt so good. Best not to tempt fate when the consequences of the optimistic scenario not being attained, are so severe. Spend more - WISELY of course, not just throw money around - so that your project costs less.

cj599

so far I have no cheap parts in it I probably will save and go with good stuff but id like to get it running this summer and now I don't see it happening

and I never said cheap parts, just maybe a flat instead of roller

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350585865793?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
this is what you have to put in your engine every oil change if you are to use a flat tappet cam

cj599

i run zink in all my flat tappet engines since oil makers quit using it unless you buy oil that has it in it

cj599

well here is another idea what kind of boost would be good with my combo and say some 781's or 049 etc

cj599

will these be a better option than the set I listed earlier?

Edelbrock Performer RPM 454-O High-Compression Cylinder Heads 60429

cj599

deck clearance is .025