MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

I have some questions about the Taurus fan conversion. First off I have a 383 that was installed about three years ago I unfortunately haven't had time to play with the car much since then I only drive it about 1000 miles a year. Anyway I have had to drive it more this summer than I normally do and I have noticed that it is running way to hot in town and at times on the highway. I added water wetter and changed to a 160 therm o stat which helped but not enough. I have stock electric fan which is on a toggle switch . I turn fan on in town and as needed on highway. I have read alot about the Taurus fan install and I believe this is my next move, however I would like to know can I buy one of these fans from a auto parts store or can you only get one from a junk yard. I have looked and cant find one in the yards around me probably because they are so popular mods to hot rods etc. Also any advice on install and wiring. Any help would be great I hope to get this done before I put car way for winter. Also when my car does run hot for a while it wants to stall at lights and it diesels when I turn it off could timing also be and issue?

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

What's going on with your intake setup, carb, tbi, tpi, something else? That will be a good start to help out. Wiring a fan is pretty simple. You get the temp switch with a temp of your choosing, this switch will be wired to trigger a relay. This needs to be wired to something that only gets power when the key is on, the power source for the fan from the stock wiring is perfect for this. There's a diagram and list of different switches with what temps they come on and off at. I'll look for the link in a bit.

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

sorry should have mentioned in post I have a edel brock carb large SOB I cant remember exact size. I also have been thinking about wiring fan to come on at two diffrent temps dont know much about it other than needing relays would universal adjustable one work such as http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...jnid=40&jpid=0 or http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...jnid=40&jpid=2 also I found this fan its suppose to be astock replacement for the taurus fan http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...jnid=10&jpid=0 any thoughts?

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I have a 383 with a new stock size radiator, no AC condenser, with the old style mechanical fan. It never goes above 190. If it were me I would look at other possibilities first, and then I would also make changes in the spring time so you won't be trying to remember what you did a half year ago and/or make a bunch of changes over the winter and not knowing which affected what. For now I would back flush the fins on the rad and condenser, make sure you have the spring in the lower rad hose and check the air dam underneath. Yes, the timing could be off and that would be something to check as well as a blown head gasket.
I just saw a recent thread or two on acquiring the Taurus and other fan options too if you were interested in searching for them.

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

I remember reading something about the replacement Taurus fans not being as strong as the OEM Taurus fans.

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

I have read similar things as well but I don't know if it is true or not any body know? the fan I posed has the same oem number as the early Taurus fan but its probably a aftermarket repoduction

mmadden55

Look at this Tri flow radiator and fans with shrouds.

http://www.eastwood.com/triflow

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

anyone know if the adjustable relays I posted would work with the Taurus fan.?

midias

Sounds like you have other issues if you are turning the fan on on the express way or really any time you are moving. Is your factory air dam installed? Also get the fan on a thermal switch.

midias

Adjustable how, relays are on or off

Ron U.S.M.C.

MSRed91Camaro ,
Those are not relays. They fall under the "adjustable, temperature controlled "fan switch" category.


The Hayden # 3653 is exactly like the one I use ,mine is just a different brand.


The Taurus fan is more complicated than the simple circuit I'm using with that switch.
The man to talk to is "formula1LE".
He has it all.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Even a single fan from a TPI dual fan setup should be able to keep a modified car out of the dangerzone with regular street driving, even in traffic. I had my secondary fan fail on me without causing any outward issues. In fact, I never even NOTICED that the 2nd fan was never turning on. So my cammed/AFR headed car was happily driving around, sitting in in a traffic jam without ever overheating all while on a single TPI fan with a stock LT1 radiator.

You should never even need the fans on the street as long as your average speed is near 40mph. 40mph provides more airflow than the stock dual fan setup can provide. So if its overheating there, then you either have a flow issue in the radiator, or you don't have enough airflow over the radiator from a missing shroud or air dam.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Stay away from tri-flow radiators, they will dramatically increase the coolant system pressure. That will require the water pump to need more power to turn, increase your chances at developing a coolant leak and increase the rate at which it leaks.

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

Here go! Complete wiring guide and huge list of different temp switches


http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooli...fan-right.html

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info guys sorry about the confusion with saying "relays"
when I meant fan switch. Far as I know the air dam on my car is fully intact, as for temperature at highway speeds. At 50 or higher temp stays down but as soon as I stop at a light or get stuck in traffic it will shoot up to 220 or higher and even after getting going again it wont go back down. As for possible head gasket issue I have checked for all the signs " milky oil bubbles in coolant, loss of coolant etc" and I haven't seen anything. The engine was built about four years ago and only ha about 10000 miles on it .

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

Mine gets to about 220 or so sitting in traffic, my fan doesn't cut on till about 210 though, I've got my fan wired to its own relay system, I need to get a lower temp fan switch. Once I've been rolling for a bit it drops back down to 160. But I've got to get up to highway speed for a a few miles before it drops back to that. In the city it's about 190 to 220 as the fan kicks on and off. When I got the car the fan was wired always on with key on but I didn't like that, I ran it's own circuit but just used the factory fan switch which is a pretty high temp.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I'm going to add a circuit and a diagram.
If you going to install a single fan that will not be hooked to the A/C circuit this is what I use.
The first one is how you wire the relay and the second is the actual circuit.
Here is the fan switch that is in the circuit = http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...67187_69565_0/
By the way,it does not get any easer than this.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Here's a little tip I learned the hard way.
Lay your wires in the configuration that your going to place them and give yourself two or three extra feet of wire. Use different color wire for each one coming off of the relay.
You could mark each end with colored electoral tape but I prefer this way especially if it gets complicated.


Then you take each wire and put wire loom on it before you run it in its final spot. Use baby zip ties every foot to keep the wire in.
This way the (I use black loom) will hide the color of the wire but you will have different colors on the ends to do your final wiring. In other words you will easily know what wire goes where.




I did not do that and it was a real pain. I still have the different color electrical tape on the wires connected to the relay. The same tape is on the other end of each wire for quick identification.


I have two fans using separate circuits with separate relays. That's because you should not run two fans on the same circuit. Besides each fan is set to come on at is own predetermined time. With a 180* thermostat the first fan come's on at 180* and the second at 200* as back up.
My car stays between those temps. all the time.

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

Sound advice Ron. I need to redo my wiring as well. It's all over the place and is killing me.

AmpleUnicorn88

As suggested by others, this fan swap may be a good idea and you may run cooler, but I have read numerous posts on this forum and others where people are running any number of different motor setups and don't run this fan and don't have problems. I do read that this is a popular swap to do though.
That being said, if you have an issue causing overheating that isn't related to the fan, then the fan swap might lower temps but might not fix the more serious issue. I'd check all the obvious stuff first and make sure it's all working correctly before doing this switch.

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

ok so a few weeks ago I was driving my car and I all of a sudden I lost power I costed into a parking lot and I thought I ran out of gas my gauge was a little under a quarter and I thought maybe the gauge stopped working. Anyway as I was waiting for my wife to bring a gas can I noticed that my car was leaking a little oil from the back of the engine. So I had my car towed to my buddies shop and they have been working on it in their spare time they haven't gotten to the oil leak issue yet but today they called and said that they think my fuel pump has gone out. a few years ago when I had my 383 stroker installed and I went from my efi to carb. I kept the stock fuel pump and had a fuel pressure regulator installed. My car ran good for about a year and then it wouldn't start had my mechanic shop do a run over and fuel pump was bad so I had it replaced, just figured the stock pump finally decided to crap out. Anyways they think that the regulator has been causing the in-tank pump to be over worked. This is the first issue they are going to tackle before they look into the oil leak( I think I also blew a rear main seal). So they ordered a new pump to replace it and I think they mentioned going to a aftermarket pump meant for carbed engines. So has anyone ever had this problem? also would excess crank case pressure be causing my heating issues? Any advice

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

If you have a carb'ed V8 just ditch the elec. pump. Put an early third gen fuel tank sender/pickup in and slap a $15 mech. fuel pump on the front pass side corner of engine.

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

so does anyone know if to much crank case pressure can cause heating issues, I still don't know if I blew a rear main seal yet but where the oil was coming from it was in that location, praying it isn't a head gasket.