south bay AFPR
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Huntsville AL
Posts: 3,938
Received 97 Likes
on
62 Posts
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: south bay AFPR
???86 firebird GTA 350 TPI??? They didn't make the GTA till 87....oh well
what pump do you have in the tank? Stock, Walbro 255lph, 340lph???
Something aint right
Need a fuel guy here....
what pump do you have in the tank? Stock, Walbro 255lph, 340lph???
Something aint right
Need a fuel guy here....
#10
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Huntsville AL
Posts: 3,938
Received 97 Likes
on
62 Posts
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: south bay AFPR
See below in RED
Diagnosing Your Fuel System
Description and Diagnosis
If you are having fuel pressure-related problems, use these tests to narrow down the problem. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. You can either make one, using the instructions on the Make A Fuel Pressure Gauge page, or you can buy one for between $20 and $40. They are available at most larger auto parts stores. The better ones have brass fittings, bleed valves (to relieve the pressure), and metric adapters. Here you can see a picture of mine.
Check fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it to the fuel rail service valve on the fuel rail or by installing a "T" fitting between the fuel supply line and the fuel rail, as described on the Make A Fuel Pressure Gauge page.
Turn the ignition key to "run" (engine off). The pressure should rise to about 34 psi to 38 psi for 1984-1985 N/A engines, 13.5 psi to 15.5 psi for 1986 and up N/A engines, or 53 psi to 57 psi for turbo engines. Try cycling the key once or twice if it is low. If you still can't get the pressure up this way, don't worry about it for now. Your battery or wiring may not be strong enough to power the pump without the engine running.
Watch the gauge. The pressure should hold. If the pressure drops quickly, there may be a leaking fuel injector, a bad fuel pressure regulator, or a bad check valve on the fuel pump. If the pressure is high, the fuel pressure regulator is bad or the fuel return line is somehow blocked. Don't worry about low pressure at this point.
Start the engine up. The fuel pressure regulator is designed to maintain a constant pressure on the injectors, relative to the intake pressure (or vacuum). There will be a vacuum at idle and the pressure will drop. If you have a vacuum gauge, you can verify this. For each inHg of vacuum at the manifold, you should see a 0.49 psi drop in fuel pressure. So at 15 inHg of vacuum, you should see about 47.6 psi of fuel pressure.
Remove the vacuum line from the regulator. The pressure should rise back to its atmospheric level (about 36psi for 1984-1985 N/A, 15psi for 1986 and up N/A or 55 psi for turbo). If the pressure is low, there may be a fuel flow problem due to a dirty fuel filter or a worn fuel pump. Be sure to connect the vacuum line back up!
If the pressure measures OK, try revving the engine with the vacuum line hooked back up. The pressure should rise to match the changing manifold pressure (a vacuum gauge or boost gauge for turbos is helpful), keeping a constant pressure difference between the two.
If the pressure is OK while parked, you will need to try driving around with the gauge attached. With a long enough hose, you can run the hose through the back of the hood and clip the gauge to the windshield with the windshield wiper. You will also need a vacuum/boost gauge to compare the readings.
If the fuel pressure drops off at higher engine speed or while driving, there may be a fuel flow problem or a bad regulator.
For information on upgrades, see the Upgrading The Fuel System page.
Diagnosing Your Fuel System
Description and Diagnosis
If you are having fuel pressure-related problems, use these tests to narrow down the problem. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. You can either make one, using the instructions on the Make A Fuel Pressure Gauge page, or you can buy one for between $20 and $40. They are available at most larger auto parts stores. The better ones have brass fittings, bleed valves (to relieve the pressure), and metric adapters. Here you can see a picture of mine.
Check fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it to the fuel rail service valve on the fuel rail or by installing a "T" fitting between the fuel supply line and the fuel rail, as described on the Make A Fuel Pressure Gauge page.
Turn the ignition key to "run" (engine off). The pressure should rise to about 34 psi to 38 psi for 1984-1985 N/A engines, 13.5 psi to 15.5 psi for 1986 and up N/A engines, or 53 psi to 57 psi for turbo engines. Try cycling the key once or twice if it is low. If you still can't get the pressure up this way, don't worry about it for now. Your battery or wiring may not be strong enough to power the pump without the engine running.
Watch the gauge. The pressure should hold. If the pressure drops quickly, there may be a leaking fuel injector, a bad fuel pressure regulator, or a bad check valve on the fuel pump. If the pressure is high, the fuel pressure regulator is bad or the fuel return line is somehow blocked. Don't worry about low pressure at this point.
Start the engine up. The fuel pressure regulator is designed to maintain a constant pressure on the injectors, relative to the intake pressure (or vacuum). There will be a vacuum at idle and the pressure will drop. If you have a vacuum gauge, you can verify this. For each inHg of vacuum at the manifold, you should see a 0.49 psi drop in fuel pressure. So at 15 inHg of vacuum, you should see about 47.6 psi of fuel pressure.
Remove the vacuum line from the regulator. The pressure should rise back to its atmospheric level (about 36psi for 1984-1985 N/A, 15psi for 1986 and up N/A or 55 psi for turbo). If the pressure is low, there may be a fuel flow problem due to a dirty fuel filter or a worn fuel pump. Be sure to connect the vacuum line back up!
If the pressure measures OK, try revving the engine with the vacuum line hooked back up. The pressure should rise to match the changing manifold pressure (a vacuum gauge or boost gauge for turbos is helpful), keeping a constant pressure difference between the two.
If the pressure is OK while parked, you will need to try driving around with the gauge attached. With a long enough hose, you can run the hose through the back of the hood and clip the gauge to the windshield with the windshield wiper. You will also need a vacuum/boost gauge to compare the readings.
If the fuel pressure drops off at higher engine speed or while driving, there may be a fuel flow problem or a bad regulator.
For information on upgrades, see the Upgrading The Fuel System page.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 Firebird TA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: south bay AFPR
My rpo codes say it's a ws6 gta TA car so idk. ..
Anyway I have checked my return line frome the regulator all the way to the tank and I have no restrictions and as far as I know it has a stock pump
Anyway I have checked my return line frome the regulator all the way to the tank and I have no restrictions and as far as I know it has a stock pump
#12
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Huntsville AL
Posts: 3,938
Received 97 Likes
on
62 Posts
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: south bay AFPR
I'm stumped on the AFPR
For your reading pleasure...
http://www.gtasourcepage.com/newauthentication.html
For your reading pleasure...
http://www.gtasourcepage.com/newauthentication.html
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: south bay AFPR
Not to hijack the thread or anything, but I had a question on this line in the diagnosis procedure Bob88GTA posted.
Shouldn't this be the other way around, where the pressure reads lower with the vacuum line hooked up? I just want to make sure my understanding of the system is correct since I will also be installing a SouthBay AFPR soon.
So at 15 inHg of vacuum, you should see about 47.6 psi of fuel pressure.
Remove the vacuum line from the regulator. The pressure should rise back to its atmospheric level (about 36psi for 1984-1985 N/A, 15psi for 1986 and up N/A or 55 psi for turbo).
Remove the vacuum line from the regulator. The pressure should rise back to its atmospheric level (about 36psi for 1984-1985 N/A, 15psi for 1986 and up N/A or 55 psi for turbo).
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 Firebird TA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: south bay AFPR
I called them and they said I'm missing a metal ring that goes under the fpr
And above the diaphragm that should have been there with the stock fpr. Does this sound right? I never removed it from the stock setup, could it have Been missing already?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
[Sold] Flowmaster exhaust system
Night rider327
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
4
10-09-2015 09:25 AM
Night rider327
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
0
09-25-2015 04:47 AM