89redeyeRoc

Ok so I'm new to the 3rd Gen cars. I'm an old school guy - points, HEI, I can make it run if it's got a carb. I love the looks of the 3rd Gen but I am intimidated by all of the maf, map, Ecu, oxy sensor etc.. talk. I have an 89 Iroc 5.7 TPI that I acquired from the second owner that is pretty much original except for the radio. It has sat in a garage since 2012! Is there any literature books etc.. that explains and walks someone with Zero experience regarding an initial start up check list? I know that I will have to drop the gas tank to clean out and inspect and test fuel pump etc. But once I get to the point to try to start the car after sitting for all of these years do these cars have a plug in module that will point to a component failure? I want to make the car run as it was intended to run wth the TPI setup. I am not going to convert it to a carb and diminish its significance. What do I purchase to help me trouble shoot? I can use a volt meter and ohm meter - those I have .I don't give up easily but I am intimidated by the many electrical components such as injectors - sensors- camshaft and oxygen to name a few. Would love to hear from you experienced 3rd Generation techs as to how to get started!

Respectfully,

89redeyeRoc

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

It's only been three years. I've seen cars sit for much longer and start with little effort. I take it you haven't tried to start it yet? Depending on fuel level, you may get away with adding fresh fuel, charged battery and turn the key. There are a bunch of things you can check or do but that may not be necessary at this point.

89redeyeRoc

Hey thanks for the advice and encouragement - maybe I will get lucky and no issues - I did bump starter and it turned but for fear of contaminating the injection system I stopped there and removed the battery so I could get started on checking out the gas tank.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

I would definitely drop the tank, drain the gas, and make sure all that gunk is out the tank.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Welcome!

Don't be intimidated by these. Once you get familiarized with how everything works together, it's a piece of cake. Get a shop manual for your car. They are on fleabay quite often. It'll be a life saver.

The members on here are full of knowledge; just ask. A great group of people!

As for you getting it ready to fire up...like alicempire above said, you may luck out and just fire it right up.

Add some fuel to the tank and check all your fluids, batt, and other pertinent things. If it fires up, let it run for a whiile and give it a drive.
Then if all goes well, I would change the fuel filter for starters. It's located on the drivers side towards the back. Just follow the fuel lines.

On another note....you mentioned about taking the tank out and cleaning it...that's a super idea, but on these cars you have to drop the rear and exhaust,suspension to get the tank down. It's a chore, but takes a few hours.
So if you can avoid that, your better off!

89redeyeRoc

Thanks dmccain for your input - looking forward to the task at hand and hope to learn from you guys!

89redeyeroc

89redeyeRoc

Bobb88gta - I'm just learning how to use the third gen forum and I appreciate your tip about the fuel tank removal? Crazy I had no idea! On the earlier Generation cars it's a simple task. Wow I will do as you have suggested! I will definitely go get a manual.
Thanks again!

Respectfully,

89redeyeRoc

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

It is a major job that is no doubt. To me it was anyway.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

After 2 or 3 times, it's a walk in the park! Well, not really.

Get you a friend to help.

Just be safe when you do it and don't shortcut. You'll be fine.

TPI

Ive done the job more than a dozen times.. Though, it gets easier with experience I highly recommend having a buddy with you. Also, if you can remove as much fuel as possible before removing the tank. that will help out a ton.

If you take your time, try not too damage or bend the tank straps.. That alone
will have your triceps from pushing up on the tank to land the bolts! Also, finding the
rotation for getting the tank to pull out without damaging the filler neck takes some finesse.. That's where having a buddy helps out a ton! By far the biggest obstacle is getting the axle as low as possible, and getting the exhaust out of the way. It is not a comfy position to be in.. I highly encourage to get the car on a lift. It'll save a lot of time and energy.

Good luck, and take your time!

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

I did a fuel pump swap in my car back in 2012. Like everyone said here, play it safe, make sure when jacking up the car to push on it so you know its not going to fall of the stands. I used a regular floor jack from sears to drop the rear and get the coils out. It was some work but I enjoyed it none the less.

89redeyeRoc

Hey thanks TPI - it also sounds like the only way to change the fuel pump is to drop it out also? Appreciate the tips.

Respectfully,

89redeyeRoc

89redeyeRoc

Hey Hawkeye1980 thanks again for your input and tips!! Appreciate all of the positive comments - it's a challenge !

Respectfully,

89redeyeRoc

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

Curiosity would have gotten the best of me, I would have added fresh gas and charged the battery to hear it run and see what codes it's pulling. once I knew what codes and heard the idle I would of did the basic, fuel/ air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, vacuum lines, and fluid flush and then went on from there as needed. Then take a test drive to see how the brakes are doing. It hasn't been sitting for that long at all, I wouldn't be too concerned but dropping the tank to clean it out and put in a quality pump is never a bad idea. Tpi really is a breeze once you get the hang of it, this forum is a good forum full of good helpful people, good luck

89redeyeRoc

Tylersteez - that is what I will do first! I just wanted to have a game plan - really am intimidated with all of the electronics on board! ( my weakness or my nemeses ) but I will push ahead. I put a new battery in it but I have not checked fluids yet - which will be step 2 then step 3 I will go ahead and change fuel filter before adding fuel - or should I try to purge any fuel left in the tank and then change filter? How do I check for failure codes? Is there a code reader that I plug in? And where do I plug in if it doesn't crank? I don't have a clue about these cars - thanks for yours and everyone's input.

Respectfully,

89redeyeRoc

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

Since you put a new battery in you will have to run the car before any codes appear, you can buy a $30 code reader that will make the check engine light flash in a sequence that symbolizes numbers (example- flash flash, pause, flash flash will mean code 22) the number will repeat three times before the next codes sequence starts. Or you can use a paper clip and stick both ends of the paper clip into the top right most terminals of the obd1 port under the dash on the drivers side, it'll do the same thing except for the cost of a paper clip.

Removing the old gas from the tank is definitely a good idea so you don't run that bad gas through the motor. Not sure how you'd get it out except siphoning, I can't remember how much was coming out when I changed my filter but I don't think it'll flow due to the fuel pump not pumping the gas upwards towards the fuel line. Hopefully someone can chime in on that one.

As for the fuel gauge not working, here is a thread that might help you out, could still be a bad sending unit or the wiring going to the sending unit.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/electronics/463809-fuel-gauge-not-working.html

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

As for some information on the TPI system, your car uses a mass airflow sensor (maf) to measure how much air the engine is drawing in, it gives this information to the ecm to determine the correct air/fuel ratio. It does this with several other sensors such as the throttle positioning sensor, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensor, and idle air control. Those sensors tell the engine exactly what's going on so it can properly manage the motor. For example the computer uses the oxygen sensor to tell the engine if it's running lean or rich, if it's running rich it'll lower the fuel and if it's running lean it'll add fuel. When one of those sensors goes you will know it, a check engine light will flash, and you'll be able to scan it and see exactly what's going on.

Replacing maf sensors can be pretty pricey, you can get a cardone re manufactured one for around $150-200 from autozone. These reman mafs aren't the greatest quality and are known to fail or be faulty right out of the box. The real deal GM ones are upwards of $650. When mafs go bad they make the car run like an old tired dog, sluggish on acceleration and falling on its face when giving gas. Mine was bad when I bought my car so I'm giving you the heads up, if it is bad you'll get a check engine light for it so it'll be pretty easy to diagnose. I'm not trying to steer you away from TPI because it's an amazing system when running correctly.

eseibel67

OP: Just a general comment. You say that you are good with carbs and HEI, and you can use a voltmeter. Well then, the principles of induction, ignition and combustion all apply exactly the same way with TPI. This website is excellent for TPI in particular, but I would suggest that you study basic principles of fuel injection. Found this on a quick search, there might be better ones out there:


http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection.htm

89redeyeRoc

eseibel67 thanks for the link! Will study and educate myself ! Thanks for your input!

Respectfully,

89redeyeRoc

89redeyeRoc

Tylersteez - I had no idea ! Wow that is a little pricey but it is what it is - I want this car to run as it was intended to. I now understand why so many of them were converted to a carburetor set up. Thanks for schooling me on the sensor issues!

Respectfully,

89redeyeRoc

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

Sure thing. Please let us know how you make out!

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Check oil, add some fresh gas, charge the battery and turn the key.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

If you are planning on putting fresh fuel though the system on initial start up then you might want to drop the tank and just replace the sending unit as was said above - you don't know what it has been through and if the sending unit is giving you trouble -- then I would not trust it.

To see if the pump is working you turn the key to on, engine off and if you hear a buzzing, that is your fuel pump. Normally it should shut off after 3 seconds, but will turn on when you start the engine

If your pump works and you want to pull the tank, then this is what you do to drain the gas:

Open hood and find the relays on the drivers side firewall. There should be three - two oval shaped and one rectangle shape. The rectangle is the fuel pump relay:

to get the pump to run disconnect ther relay and turn the key off...

give the tan/white wire power (volts +) - you can use an alligator clip ... and make sure the battery is hooked up in the car too

This will make the pump run. Now you probably want to drain it into a container - so before playing with electrical go to the front of the engine and find the fuel lines. Disconnect the bigger line and stick into something that can hold gas. Then hot wire the pump like I stated above. You should have fuel coming out.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

One of the links in this thread will give you a free downloadable version of a 1988 service manual.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ce-manual.html


The main difference between 1988 and 1989 is that in 1989 they eliminated the cold start injector.

For less confusion you can get a 1989 service manual, but this will atleast get you started. good luck