Lethalv6

I'm about at my wits end, bought an 86 tpi car 3 months ago with a blown motor..had everything rebuilt and installed, went to start the car and it sounds locked. I pulled all the plugs and #6 has so much fuel it's puking out the spark plug hole. I have to assume the injector is bad, but that's allot of fuel. Should I be looking elsewhere too ? I'm brand new to 3rd gens so I'm a little out of my league. None of the other cylinders appear to have this issue, the motor rolls over fine with no plugs (besides the fuel bath) I'm hoping nothing is damaged. I've got almost everything new when I was reassembling except a fuel pressure regulator but I don't think that would cause this issue. I pulled the upper intake and runner and found fuel even in the upper manifold, before I buy another set of rebuilt injectors I wanted to ask for pointers here...this car almost has me in submission.
Thanks for any input you can give me.

85IROCzzz

iTrader: (1)

If you found fuel in the upper manifold you could try taking the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. If there's fuel in the line then the regulator has torn and the vacuum line is sucking fuel straight into the intake. I wouldn't imagine that would be enough to hydrolock an engine so you might have another issue. Check all the injectors resistance with a multimeter. I can't remember off the top of my head what they should be but I'm pretty sure if any are below 14 Ohms that's bad. If you search for it on here you will find the proper specs.

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

That much fuel in one cylinder would be caused by a stuck injector. Checking the resistance of the coils will only tell you if the electrical portion of the injector is okay, won't tell you a thing about the mechanical condition. Get some new/rebuilt injectors, dump the oil and filter for new. Check the fuel pressure regulator as suggested above and replace the diaphragm as necessary. HTH!

Lethalv6

Thanks for the help, I followed all advise and swapped injectors and rebuilt the fpr and swapped oil and filter. The car is trying to start now but it's almost like throttle control is dead. I'm sure I'm close on timing, the car will fire momentarily but dies right after. I attempt to work the pedal to keep it running and the rpms flare then it dies but the pedal never seems to match the rpms. I thought it might ba a maf or tps, but tps is .52 and I can't find any codes in the ecm but with the car being torn down and sitting for so long ...without running can it draw codes quick enough from just attempted firing ? I'm so close to getting her running.
Thanks again for the previous help.

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

At this point, you need to determine if it is a fuel related problem or a spark related problem. What is your fuel pressure? Do you have good spark? Does your TPS voltage follow the throttle position and transition smoothly? Unplug the MAF, will it start and idle now? A few things to check. GL!

Lethalv6

Thanks Al, fp is 40 psi..it fires for a sec. so I assumed that end was ok. The car has entirely new fuel system now, tank to inj. New dist. Cap, rotor, ign coil, wires, plugs..
I didn't try unplugging the maf to check that, I'll do that for sure...it sure seems to be something sensor related with the throttle control being off and the sudden rpm flare.
Thanks again for all input,

Lethalv6

I've been talking to some others about the car and since rebuilding the engine I've followed the procedure to set timing by unplugging the tan and black wire by the firewall. He mentioned I may need to plug this back in to get it running then rerun the timing procedure. Does this sound viable ?

tealman92

Yes plug it back in until you can at least get the car to idle. Did you replace the IAC valve? Is all the stock components of the engine still in place? Egr valve,smog pump vacuum lines and such? Just checking all the basics to better assist you in diagnosting the problem.

Lethalv6

Thanks for the reply, I put everything that came off the car back on including all the AIR stuff, EGR, etc...but I didn't replace anything with new parts yet. its not logging any codes but I don't know if it would have time since not running on its own power yet. Ill plug the wire back in tomorrow morning and see if I can get it running...

Lethalv6

I plugged the wire backed in and although I have to peddle to keep it started, she ran long enough to fire a code 34 which the way it has been acting seemed a lot like a maf problem. I'll swap it out tomorrow and try again.

Lethalv6

Well I could kick myself, swapped the maf and problem still exists but cel went off, I swapped and cleaned relays and still nothing. Played with the timing but it still won't stay started on it's on so as a buddy peddled I got the carb spray out. I was meticulous with the vac hoses when connecting everything back but as I'm spraying I notice the closer I get to the egr valve the revs race..the car (before spraying ) was popping a lot while trying to dial insomnia my next guess is a bad egr valve although there is no code on the scanner. I put a vac tester on it after and it holds no vac at all...I have to assume there is a massive vac leak there causing my tune issues. The parts store is loving me, I'll retest the maf once this is covered..may not be bad after all.