TreDeClaw

700R4 Moderately build, shift kit etc.
350
Comp Cam 12-262-4
64cc heads
650 holley

Finishing the rebuild on my motor just looking for more then the stock converter.

Help please I don't want to high a stall and overheat anything. I have been looking at a 2000 b&m holeshot converter.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

2200-2400 rpm stall would be what I would run on that combo.

I am NOT a fan of the big brand off the shelf converters. I feel you can get a lot better with a custom built unit or at least one from a true converter company.

The 2400 stall Holeshot is $300

For a good cheaper converter company torque converter I like PTC in AL. They have 11" converters for $275, 12" for $170.

Call them and tell them what you have and they will recommed a stall speed based on your specs and or will set the converter for what ever stall you need
http://www.ptcrace.com/index.php

TreDeClaw

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-22-25/overview/

How about this converter?

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Hughes is better than B&M, TCI, boss hogg, etc. Not a bad one, but really I still stick with what I said before. Call PTC, edge, Freakshow, FTI, midwest, etc and see what kind of prices they have on what you need. I think you will be better off in the long run that away.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Spend the money on a good converter, you will not regret it. Stay away from TCI, B&M and any place like that. $450 is "cheap" for a converter. Look up TCI on the boards here and you'll see about 70% of them have issues. $800 is what you pay for a custom built from PATEC, Circle-D, Precision Industries etc. and is well worth it in my opinion.

The key to the stall speed, is you want it around 200-400 rpm above the cam's lower power band. so if you have a cam that's 1800-5500rpm, you want a stall around 2200rpm.

Pro Built Automatics

Depending on the camshaft specs .050" lift, lobe separation (LSA), rear end gear ratio and how you drive will determine what stall to go with here. With the 12" TC 2,400 rpm stall is the highest you should ever go. If you want more stall and drive moderate aggressive to aggressive then the 9.5" lockup TC would be the best way to go. They are 15 - 17 pounds lighter than the stock diameter TC. This is much easier on the gear train and gives much better acceleration at WOT. With whatever TC you choose you should always run a large secondary transmission cooler in conjunction with the one in the radiator. Stay away from B&M and TCI for a 700R4/4L60E torque converter. They have the highest comeback rate in the industry. When a torque converter fails it usually takes the transmission with it. I carry the Edge, Circle D and the P. I. Vigilante, but there are a few other good companies out there as mentioned.

TreDeClaw

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fti-sb2400lt27.

Is this converter any good?


And how many splines do I have?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

If your transmission is the stock transmission, you should have 27 splines. In 84 they started moving to the 30 splines about half year or so. Very confusing.


As for that converter, I wouldn't waste your money. What is the rest of your build?
Cam, heads, gears etc. the more we know the more we can help you.

I personally, will only recommend Edge, Circle-D, or Vigilante (precision industries) converters. yes, you'll pay $700+ for them, but this is one thing you do not want to get wrong.

TreDeClaw

My specs are the first post.
Not the stock transmission it's most likely newer. So 30?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Unless you know, the only way to tell is to pull it off the car and count the splines. Possibly you can get the serial number of it and that will tell you. If you drop the pan and have a tube crossing the valve body, that means you have an 87+ converter and that will be a 30 spline. Also, the 87 and up pans are a bit deeper to accomodate the auxillory valve body.

As for the torque converter....stick with stock.

You want your torque converter to engage 200-400 rpm above the power band of the cam. Your cam power band is 1500-5500. So your torque converter should hit around 1800-1900 rpm. That's the range of the stock converter.

Also, as mentioned, stay away from B&M, TCI or any of the "off the shelf" converter companies. Their quality just isn't there.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

That's not quite the right way to pick a converter stall.. If you are only basing it on RPM, then it should be 200-400 above TORQUE PEAK, not just where your cam says it starts to make power.

The listed powerband of the cam means very little if anything. Put larger or smaller heads on with same cam and peak torque will change (move up or down in RPM).

Change bore size, or stroke length and peak torque RPM will change even with that same "1500-5500 rpm" cam.

Change intakes/induction systems and again the torque peak will change RPM points.