punkdude908

i just picked up a 5 qt. jug plus 1 qt. of Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 at the local Wal-Mart. i didnt know Mobil made full synthetic high mileage but it said "NEW!" on the front of it so it probably just came out. i've been waiting for a while to find a High Mileage full synthetic in a grade higher than 5W-30. i figure i'll try it out and see how it works (hopefully i'll notice SOMEWHAT of a change for the better). it should be better than what i'm currently using (Quaker State High Mileage w/ Slick 50- 10W-30)

and btw it was only $23 and change for the 5 qt jug and $5 and change for the 1 qt.

p.s. i only use the high mileage stuff cuz i have 126,000 miles on my LG4 and i'm paranoid like that.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I was looking for the stuff this weekend, but couldn't find the right combo...

Car says 5w30... But I live in Florida, where it rarely gets below 40 and the car is black... what should I switch to, 10w30, or 10w40???

Raf

Z28IROC2NV

I was too , but i'm in 'Bama. I use 10w50 in my car. Ya'll think i should change ? I mean't 20w50 ...... lol

punkdude908

i wouldnt use anything thicker than 10W-40 on a street car. i'd prob. go up to 15w-40 or even 15W-50 on a track car.

but that's just me.
----------
and Raf-
i'd use the 10W-40- its a little bit thicker and offers more protection in the older, higher mileage engines.

matt_p

10w30 is fine for just about every street car around.

86camarokid

yea i run 10w-40 in my car all year round in everything we have, lawn mowers included. also if you want another good high mileage oil valvoline has a high mileage synthetic out, now idk if its fully synthetic or a mix but it works good eather way.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

I run 15w-50 in both my cars, but they get driven during summer only. In a stock shortblock 10w-40 is about max. My motors have a little bigger bearing clearance , esp the SC one.

freestylzz

I've been using the RS200 fully synthetic 10w-60.

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

are you sure the mobile 1 high milage is a full synthetic?? i got some that wans't a full synthetic...just a blend...that's why it was cheap for me. works fine though.

punkdude908

yea i'm sure its full synthetic- it says so right on the front of it.

check it out on the mobil website:

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...ge_10W-40.aspx

thedude

If you have a high mileage car, and haven't used synthetic it's entire life, it's a bad idea to switch to it now. It does in fact lubricate better, but on a high mileage engine, in my experience, along with better lubrication, it also loosens up things like all the bearings.

Raiderfan

Please explain to me how it "loosens up things like all the bearings".

Do the bearings fall out when loose?

Will they come out of the exaust?

Should the person behind me watch out for bearings coming from my car?

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

no but i have heard of it not being so nice on the older dried out seals and causing leaks on some cars, including my old 85 ta with 86k.

punkdude908

yea but the high mileage synthetic says it "Contains a special seal conditioner to help recondition seals and prevent leaks." and "Extra anti-wear additive helps protect critical engine parts." so shouldn't it be ok?

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

synthetic is capable of getting into areas that conventional oils can't....lubricating components better. However, because of this, synthetic can also get into worn areas of seals and have been known to cause leaks if not used over most of the life of the engine. it's recommended to change the oil pan gasket when switching to a synthetic on older cars, BUT if it has some kind of "seal conditioner" maybe it won't leak. try it and find out

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

yeah i saw it at walmart last night, tempted to give it a run, does it come in 20 50?

subliminal

iTrader: (1)

Did a straight up switch to synthetic last month with quaker state Full synthetic. My car has 109k on it and no leaks whatsoever. If your seals are good you will have no problems. People only get leaks because they have bad seals but they dont know it til they switch to synthetic and it cleans all the gunk off their seals that was stopping it from leaking.

Cadillac

All I can add is that I only drive my car around 5-7K a year. With this oil I am doing only one only change a year. I might change my filter inbetween but so far, so good.

StreetRoc85 350

114k on my iroc. i dont know what it had in it before but its been run on mobil 1 exclusively since its been in my hands. no leaks, no bearings falling out, just power!

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

I switched to full synthetic back in 91/92 for my lame LG4.Biggest benefit from this, pressure used to drop to just below 30psi(idle) & would go to about 45psi from 40 mph & up.Sometimes pressure would be as low as 20-25 on real hot days.Anyway, since then my oil pressure stays around 40.Even on hot days.Cold start psi is around 50.Not having to change my oil every 3k miles is an added benefit as well.Ive never noticed oil leaking any more than already was.Even to this day.

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

switched over to 10 40 mobil 1 high mileage synthetic today, with a wix filter. how often should i change the oil, i put on like MAYBE 3-5k a year?

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

I switched my Lumina and Z71 both with well over 100K to syn and they run awesome and dont leak at all. "Bearings become loose" LOL It oil can loosen your bearings you have a severe problem.

vorgath

So if you didn't change rings nor bearings, but you changed ll the gaskets, you should be good to go as far as switching to synthetic ???

Cadillac

Uhhh... Once a year?

That's what I do (see above).

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

I only change mine once a year also. ~3K miles a year. Mobil 1 synthetic.
Same with my 00 TA.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

I have a question. when i got mine 89 trans am i've put mobil 1 oil filter and valvoline high milage 10w-40. The oil pressure been between 20 to 30, most of the time being 20. Well to get the psi up a little i've put some lucas oil treatment and put a less restrictive fram oil filter. That got the psi back to between 28 and 40. I want to run synthetic or as close to it as possible and i want to get back to 10w-30. I think the oil pump is going. Should i go ahead and replace the oil pump and hope for best or could there be something else causing the low oil pressure? Or should i just run racing 50 weight oil? It's a 305 with 125k miles(at least i hope it is 125k and not 225k)

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Most of the time low oil pressure is the result of excessive clearence in the main bearings.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

how do i fix that

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

The only fix is to replace the main bearings.Not the easiest fix, but 15-50W mobil 1 full synthetic may help.Since synthetic oil doesnt thin out when it gets hot.Unlike conventional oils.I post a thread here earlier this week about this.I helped my psi.However i assumed it was my bearing.Never bothered verifying,since 99% of the time thats the reason for low oil pressure.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

is there any way to verify that it is the main bearing without pulling the engine out? What is your oil pressure? Also how does the excessive clearence in the main bearing results in low oil pressure?
If i just put royal purple sae50(or 15-50 synthetic), will the motor last till 200k miles before going to a junk yard?

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Not that i know of.My oil press is around 35-40 psi,idle.If the mains are worn out.The extra clearance causes the oil to flow thru the main bearings faster than the oil pump can return it back to the engine.This results in too little oil in the engines oiling system.The lack of oil causes low oil pressure,because there is more oil in the oil pan than in the eng.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

so does that mean that if i put some high flow type of oil pump it might cure the problem for next 100k miles?

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Perhaps, but its cheaper/easier to try the synthetic route FIRST.If that doesnt help then you may have to try something else.Like changing the mains &/or hi-flow oil pump.How long your eng will last depends not just on proper lubrication & changing your oil filter (i change my oil about every 10k miles & filter about once a year), but also driving habits.If your gonna hammer the throttle all the time.Your eng wont last as long, keeping the maintenance up helps.Ive been going on synthetic oil since 92 & have probably put some 70K miles on it since then.Its all in how you treat the eng.Abuse it & you will only make your situation worse.Just remember try to start with the easiest/cheapest thing to repair/replace before you get into more expensive alternatives.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

thnx for help, i'll probably will wait for three months and put synthetic in, is there anyway to check directly the oil pump without taking the oil pan off?

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Again, not that i know of.Maybe someone on here knows a method to test the oil pump installed.As far as i know though, no.You should also check/repalce your oil pressure sending unit.If its bad in can give incorrect readings(hi or low).Forgot about that little bastard.Most are located next to the distributor(Dr.side).

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I'm pushing 160k miles on my GTA, and run 20w50, all year. Always have, in all my cars. Winters here in central Texas are a joke. We average 35+ degrees, rarely have snow, and only few half days of ice (mornings) or a few days.

I'll check my psi #s next time I go somewhere. I know at start up, it's on the high side (around 70?), but drops after it warms up (around 35?).

I'll get more accurate #s later.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

OK...At start up, 3 notches over the 30 psi mark, after 20 minutes of running, 3.5 marks below the 30 psi mark.

The warm/low mark strikes me as a bit low, but I'm not concerned. She runs great!

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

i heard from somebody that you really want to keep the oil pressure according to rpm's, so when you hit 4500 rpm, you are better have 45 psi of oil pressure or engine starting to get a real beating

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

My 91 TPI oil pressure starts high, then as the engine warms goes down to 30 or so... granted, it's only started once a week, not a daily driver...

Is this normal?

Raf

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

My #s were at 600 rpm idle. I'll check it again at higher rpms tomorrow. I only drive it acouple of times a week, and generally not very far, maybe a few miles each way.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Thats not out of the ordinary i think.My car is the same & that's with 15-50W symthetic!Plus my curb idle is around 550 in drive.I only drive about once or twice a month,if that.The closer you are to the red zone the more concerned you should be.Also a fluctuating needle should be something to look into.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Very normal. Cold oil is thicker. As it warms up, it thins out. It's the warm pressure you have to watch. If your pressure DOESN'T drop when it warms up, I'd suspect the oil pressure sending unit is out.

My wifes oil pressure gauge dropped to zero one morning, on her way to work. Her car was a T5, so she threw it in Neutral, killed the engine, and coasted into a gas station, and called me. Due to time restraints and other commitments I had, other commitments, I had to picked up and towed to a shop, and the sending unit was replaced the next day. One of the only times I've paid a shop to work on my cars.

About the only way to replace it, is to loosen the motor mount on that side, jack up the engine at a tilt, then you can get to the sender. It is RIGHT ABOVE the motor mount, on the drivers side.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

it took me about twenty minutes to replace the unit but i didn't jack the engine up.