Edit (8/8/07): I forgot a section of the review. I've added it (now post 2) and re-arranged the posts. For those of you who have been following this thread (WANTED - 10 or more to group purchase Dropped Spindles.), you know that AJE Racing had released a set of spindles. Since their release, I've been told there have been two revisions. I had the first model, which I returned before installing, and now the third model. This post will chronicle my problems with installing the spindles, which ended in frustration with Anthony and a sloppy engineered product. I am switching back to stock spindles, and I wanted to let the TGO community know so that you don't have to waste your time and money as I did. For the record, I was told that these spindles were bolt-on replacements for the stock spindles. Definition of bolt-on: Remove the old part, install the new part. Done. --- Review --- Upon unpacking the spindles, I was impressed with the thickness of the lower construction. The stock steering adapter (needed if you aren't running a rack & pinon setup) was beefy. However, I was concerned with the thickness (roughly 1/4") of the backing plate on which the brake mounting screws go through. There didn't seem to be enough metal to give the bolt a strong grab, and definitely not enough around the holes on the rear-facing side of the spindle (where the caliper would mount). I was concerned that under hard braking, the metal might fatigue and break. Furthermore, the hole "height" from the tip of the spindle was different from that of the stock spindles.

Since I would be running LS1 brakes, I installed the hubs, rotors, and held the caliper carrier in position to see what modifications I would need to do. It looked like the spindle needed some 3/16" plate (and possibly some shims) welded on the back to center it over the rotor.


I MIG'd some 3/16" plate to the back (shown) and the front of the spindle, using metal pieces cut to sit 1/8" over the edge in order to help enlarge the metal around the bolt area. I then drilled out the holes needed for the LS1 caliper carriers.


The finished spindles.

After priming and painting (Dupont rattlecan semi-gloss black) the hubs and spindles, I installed the hubs and tightened them down. To my surprise, the cotter pin hole was so far off it wasn't even funny.


Using a 5/32" drill, I made a mark with the castle nut installed (and turned back 1/4 turn), and then drilled a hole for the cotter pin.


The castle nut finally installed, and the useless AJE-supplied cotter pin hole above it.

Right about now, things are looking pretty good (I love the new parts look)


I cut two 1.25x5-7/8" shims out of 0.035" stainless I had sitting around, and installed them to center the caliper carrier over the rotor.


Nicely centered.

The spindles ready to install on the a-arms.


The method I used to install the spring was to attach the strut, then install the spring in the a-arm and jack up the a-arm, bolting it on. This was much, much easier than playing with the three types of spring compressors I borrowed, and wouldn't kill you as easily. However, the rear a-arm mount (passenger side here) wouldn't go in easily, and I found out why.


The new strut was rubbing on the spring pocket sheet metal. And not just rubbing; really, really rubbing.

Since I was so close to getting the spindles on, I wanted to finish it, and so I cut a section out of the spring pocket to give the strut more clearance.


The cut made into the pocket. At this point, I would have ran a weld bead to hold the two layers of sheet metal together.


The cut sadly yielded only a little clearance, but at least it worked.

Figuring I had jumped the last hurtle, I was ready to finish installing the passenger side and move on to the driver side of the car. However, the spindle did not have a very big turning radius, and this is why. The bolts for the stock steering adapter hit the a-arm.


This is the position of the hub at the new "full lock". Pitiful. I'm sure that there would be more clearance if the suspension was loaded, but what if I needed to jack up the car with the wheels turned? There would be no way it could be done without damage to either the steering adapter or the a-arm, or both.


Wondering what else could be wrong, I took a look at the swaybar end-links, and saw that even if the steering adapter had full range of motion, the end-link might interfere and limit the steering.

i was under the assumption that the bilstein struts are thicker than a stock replacement strut and this is your issue for clearance on the spring pocket?

If so, that's news to me, as I've never heard of that. My stock struts were tossed out long ago. Even still, there's the issue with the steering adapters.

Edit (8/8/07): I forgot a section of the review. I've added it (now post 2) and re-arranged the posts.


AJE Racing supplied these nuts to for spindle adapters, since they didn't make the spindle metal large enough to accept the strut. AJE told me to install the spindle in the forward position (nut spacers on front side of spindle).


The included strut adapter nuts and the stock brake bracket adapters.

Conclusion:
I am extremely disappointed and frustrated with these spindles, and am amazed that a product like this is being sold, when it clearly doesn't work. To recap:

1) When I purchased the spindle, I was told it was dropped spindle that would work with the car and stock parts. The LS1 brakes are not stock, but I still would need to add some "meat" to the spindle back in order to give even the stock bolts enough to grab onto.

2) The cotter pin hole was way off. I'm not sure why, but it wasn't even close.

3) Cutting the spring pocket was unexpected. I will be taking some sheet metal and welding it back up. After comparing the AJE spindle to the stock spindle, I see that the strut mount is straight-on versus an offset like stock. The stock offset allows the strut a big amount of clearance with the inner fender area.

4) The steering adapter hits the a-arm, and doesn't allow the wheel full turn travel. While it might have enough clearance to fully turn lock-to-lock when the suspension is fully loaded, if I ever have to unload the suspension (jacking up the car) with the wheels turned, the a-arm will hit the steering adapter and cause damage to the a-arm, spindle, or both.

When I bought the spindles, I was told they were a bolt-on. Unless I am doing something wrong (and I'm not new to fabrication), the spindles I received are far from hitting the mark. The strut mount should be at an angle to give the strut clearance, the cotter pin needs to have a different hole, and a different steering arm needs to be fabricated so that it will clear the a-arm and possibly the end-link. I have done all I can do to make these spindles work, but they will not, and I have removed them to re-install my stock spindles.

I feel like a guinea pig on a set of spindles that have not been field tested, cutting and welding up my car in the progress. I'm not sure what suspension setup, a-arms, and swaybar AJE Racing used on their 3rd gen test car, but it was far different than any stock setup.

For those of you who are interested in the AJE Racing dropped spindles, look elsewhere. I plan to obtain an old set of Bell Tech 2" dropped spindles so I can make castings and measurements, and do a limited run (not anytime soon, due to funds). But until then, cut or drop springs are the only option to lowering our cars.

good writeup with great pics , im sorry to hear about your probs with the drop spindles. What not just get lowering springs? do you really think lowering the car 1.5" with springs will make enough of a difference to warrant the drop spindles.

Having witnesses firsthand AJE engineering on their wonderful splitting tubular cross members and other people with busting control arms, I think they are off my list forever,

later
Jeremy

all parts break jeremy, spohn torque arms break, BMR lcas break, everything under a car breaks. The new AJE kmember I have hasn't budged one bit, since it's a later design, besides PA racing and the other guys break kmembers also.

I agree, all parts break. I was told by Anthony that they have installed these spindles on several customer cars, so hopefully I can get more information on how they did the install, because it is obviously not working for me. I've switched to springs and stock spindles in the meantime.

That AJE spindle looks so home made to me vs the usual 1-piece cast ones you see, like for full sized trucks, etc.

Not exactly your biggest problem but it looks like your using a C5 bracket with a LS1 rotor....

it`s hard to believe what they charge for those things considering there`s not any possible way to use them on a "normal" third gen car....what a joke, I hope they refund your money for you.

I was directed to this thread by another member who wanted my input on it. I commend your efforts to fix your problem but you could have saved a LOT of time by simply changing the bracket and not using the standard C5 bracket since the bolt holes are completely different. As mentioned a C5 carrier would have helped a lot too. I am adapting the C5 brakes to this spindle over the weekend and I'll post up with my progress.

I agree that this part needs a LOT of work to be right but it's not that far off, but still...man what a headache.

Ed

Yeah Ed, I realize that. However, when I was doing this, I had NO idea they made a LS1 adapter bracket. Nobody told me until it was all done. Anyways, I'm back to stock spindles and cut springs. I snatched a pair of dropped spindles that I'm keeping off the car and unmodified until I can make a production run of them (another 3-4 years).

Very good idea on making your own part. I was referring to using the C5 carrier instead of the LS1 carrier.

Ed

Here's my progress on the C5 bracket and brake conversion for these spindles.

Getting a rough idea:


Template bolted up:


Steel bracket in place:


Caliper and abutment installed:


Ed

If anyone wants to sell their drop spindles to me I would be interested. I just have to know if the Strange front drag brakes will mount without major modifications.

Racecraft Inc. has the 3rd and 4th gen spindles prototyped and will be shipping previously ordered spindles on Nov 5. check out my post in the group purchase section.

Thanks, Mark

http://www.racecraft.com

Mark, I have a manual rack in my car. Do you offer a spindle with an arm that is
shorter then stock to help with turning radius? I NEED a spindle that will solve this problem, and will work with my Strange drag brakes. Thanks
Dave

I don't mean to thread hi-jack, but for those who are interested in a set of dropped spindles, I'm trying to setup a new group purchase of the Racecraft Inc. dropped spindles. Please go to the link below if you are interested in joining us in the group purchase. Thanks

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/gr...e-dropped.html (NEW Group Purchase of Dropped Spindles)

Subscribe.

Tony.

subscribed for what? this thread is 2 yrs old

Well dont know what you wanna call it but theres a lot of interested information even though its 2 years old.

Tony.

haha I know what you mean. I usually just bookmarked good threads like this...

Bell Tech is fixing to re-release theirs again.....

FYI: You can just click on "Thread Tools" and then "Subscribe to thread". You can also go into your user profile and make different folders to save subscriptions to. Say you want one just for brakes, it will be easier to locate then.