stalin05

Ok TDS new hinge bolts didnt work, and now there hinge bending took didnt work either. Now i have to take it into a local body shop and have them do it for me. So now im out the $75 for the hinge bolts and $25 for the hinge bending tool.

shr00m

iTrader: (2)

What did TDS say, since I'm sure you went to him before posting this?

Kevin D.

Zerstörer

What was wrong with the kit?? I have to fix my hinges soon.

stalin05

nothings wrong with the kit, it does fix the door from going up and down, but it does not stop the door from slumping.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Kevin I'm sorry to say he didn't contact me directly regarding a problem.

Stalin05, I'm posting here to help you get the door hinge problem resolved. Since I can't be there to look at what's been done, the more details I have from you regarding exactly what you've done the better I can do to help solve your problem.

I've done a search of your posts on this topic and gathered clues as to what may have gone wrong with your hinge repair. On your first post you showed removing the wrong pin. Later in the thread you mention getting the right bolt out, but it didn't fix the problem. Unfortunately you don't mention any details of how you did the rest of the lower hinge repair. Did you replace the lower hinge bushings, or just drive out the old pin and replace it with the new one? Did you un-bolt the upper hinge, retract the door enough to clear the lower hinge, remove the old bushings and install the new ones? If so, how well did those bushings fit the old holes? I'm not familiar with the original lower hinge kit you used that you purchased from O'Reileys. The bushings should fit snug in the holes without movement. The lower hinge kit I sell (and the lower hinge pin that is part of the Upper hinge repair kit I sell) have the over-sized bushings so they'll fit a worn hole better. I don't know if the kit from O'Reiley has the standard or the over-sized bushings which are slightly larger in diameter.

I'm concerned that there may still be movement in the lower hinge pin. It may be moving in the bushings or the bushings moving in the hinge. If you did un-bolt the upper hinge to repair the lower hinge pin and bushing, did you mark the location?

In a later thread you mention un-bolting the upper hinges when you later did the upper hinge repair. You don't need to un-bolt the upper hinge if you're replacing both the upper and lower hinge pins and bushings. Another cause of the sagging you mention is the hinges not being aligned. Now that you've un-bolted the hinges from the car you'll have to try and align them or have the Body Shop do it for you. That's the nice thing about the 3rdGenSolutions hinge repair kit I sell, you don't have to un-bolt the hinges. In that case alignment of the hinges to the body shouldn't be an issue. Since you did un-bolt the hinges (twice). You'll have to try and re-align the door hinges to the body.

Close the door nearly all the way leaving enough room to fit the floor jack under the door. Un-bolt the hinges and raise the jack a little. Tighten the bolts. You can also accomplish this with the EZ-Store door alignment tool while someone else loosens and re-tightens the hinges. The EZ-Store Door Alignment tool is designed to re-bend the door hinges if they've sagged due to bending of the heavy door with time. I'm just concerned that the hinges aren't in the proper location any longer. If you still have a problem, by all means take it to a Body Shop and let the experts do it.

The door hinge kits I sell do solve the sagging due to worn hinge pins and bushings. The EZ-Store Door Alignment Tool solves the problem of sagging due to a bent hinge. A proper diagnosis is required to know which problem(s) your doors have. It's really tough for me to diagnose it if I am not there. All I can do is supply you with the proper tools, instructions and products that are proven to repair the problem. I'll gladly reimburse you for the door alignment tool if it is un-damaged if you want to return it.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

stalin05

The one from O'Reileys I used on the passenger side. I did not want to mix parts from different companys into one door. I actually took the door all the way off and installed the kit you sold me. I then re-installed the door while useing a floor jack and the E-Z tool. After installing and useing the tool to match up the door, the door continues to slump down after removing the jack and the E-Z tool. After re-trying different ways of installing the door (top first, bottem first etc) I just gave up. Im just pissed off because im affraid its gona cost me like $500 to get both doors fixed.

86IROCZ

I had a sagging door for years and finally got the upper and lower pins replaced, but the door still wouldn't shut right.

After years of closing a sagging door, the latch itself was worn away and just wouldn't shut like it was supposed to. GM doors suck


Oh yea, TDS is great to deal with too!
I got the hatch rebuild kit, worked like a champ!