JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Finally after a long winter of late nights and busting butt, It fired up pretty effortlessly tonight.
Open headers and all!
(Sounded real good backfiring till I noticed 5 & 7 were swapped )
Idled right at 900 and was smooth.
Now to put the exhaust on and connect the WB up. Took it out cuz I figured it would get trashed by the heat/cool cycles of an open collector.

Guess I need to change my sig now

vernw

iTrader: (2)

WOW! - Congrats!!!!

And an apology for not seeing this post earlier! I know you've been working long and hard trying to get the baby in. You still going to be using the 730 $8D stuff on it, or converting to SFI? Is that one of Scott's intake conversions? Just curious.....

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Still using $8D. (can only still suck air )
Thats a std HSR with a BBK 52 on it.
Going to put the driveshaft in tonight and take her out for a maiden voyage without the hood.
Got the dual 3" exhaust on it and does it look good, rock solid install.
(sounds mean as sh$%t too)
Just chasing the minor startup gremlins for now then onto some of that stuff I've been putting off.

3.8TransAM

Looking good JP.

Find an issues with rolling AFR at idle yet, or did the new lifters clear everything up?

What lifters u end up going with this time out?

later
JEremy

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Havn't run long enough to see if the rolling is a problem, I bought new Comp-R roller lifters and do not have the skip that I did last year.
I wired my o2 wrong or it took a crap already by running the open headers. Couldn't get it to behave last night in gear without idle at 1K.
Going to swap that out or use the WB output to simulate it and do some quick changes to the VE to make it behave. Seemed real rich even though the inj constant was changed to 30.
Just wanted to bake the new paint and get the smoke stopped so things can progress.
Did do the maided voyage around the cul-d-sac and almost put it through the back wall of the garage on the return.
Stomped it for a second at the end of the driveway and realized quickly I need bigger brakes than I did last year

A lighter foot might solve the problem but I don't forsee that happening.

Should have better pic tomorrow, borrowing a camera with video so I can post some sound too.

Z69

Glad you got it running.
Wish I had time to even look at mine. (it's in storage)
Did you get my email?

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Good Luck with the lifters.

Comp R's - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Mail??? Nope
Just seems to be the way the day is going.
rewired the o2 correctly, now it works then broke the F'n shifter cable
Need to fix and finish cuz going out of town again on Monday for a week and the show that I wanted to go to with it is on the 21st.
Big Chevy show at the Parma stamping plant, that was my planned deadline to get everything done.
got a bug on the WB, can't get it to read now too.
think I messed up the asm or didn't put the addy in the data. Have to look into that tonight.
Z'
I'll clean out some mail (again) and have you resend it.
You making any headway with the move?

Mikos1980,
Lifter seem to be doing fine, its everything else I touched today that giving me fits.
----------
Thanks for that heads up on those.
I don't think my clips look like that. I'll probably pull a cover and check them now.
Jp

Z69

I hate those kind of days....especially at work where I'm surrounded by running equipment.

I'm progressing toward making progress on moving. If only someone would buy my house.....for my asking price .
Look to be moving on the 22-29.

CamarosRUS

I checked out the car...very nice! IJUST WISH MY HSR would have startd that easily...

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Well I must have jinxed myself
Before I left on the trip it was running pretty good and just needed to do some tromping on it to get some higher values in place,
This week, Oh boy!
As soon as I started it it runs good. By the time I go about 4-5 miles the indications are SUPER RICH and I'm at 108 BLM across the board.
I can't find what is going on.
I'm suspecting the regulator is playing games with me.
should have bought the Kirban when I put this all together.
Don't hear any lifter noise or anything like that, volts are good, nothing but a heated o2 that wants to go into open loop when stopping at lights.
Wondering if the extra fuel is cooling it off.
Motor loads up real bad when idling for more than a minute.
Still can't get the LC-1 to work, just bounces from end to end. Might be getting too hot being right at the collector or just screwed up from all of this...
I upped the injector constant to 38 and it still goes off the scale rich.
Wanted to get to a Chevy show today but it ain't happening.
Fouled all the plugs last night trying to find what is going on.
Used 6-7 different bins and still no effect. Even emulating I can't take fuel out fast enough.
With 3/4 tank gone in about 10 miles, I wonder if my mufflers are full
Going to check the pressure today. Pretty frustrated with it right now.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Went to check the rail pressure and my tab to depress the pin is broken so I couldn't see what it was. Originally was at 43 w/ vac line off when I first set it up.
Turned it two turns out just to reduce it and fired it up.
All indication went lean so I gave it one turn in.
Things came back into line but stuttered at load from going lean.
Put it back to where it started (two turns) and everything was perfect again.
Went for a 15 minute drive and BLM's were all hanging 122-130 range.
Screw that thing, I'm buying the Kirban tonight!

CamarosRUS

I have a strong feeling I'll be in your boat before too long...damn holley regulators.

YenkoST

iTrader: (5)

I was told not to put it at the collector....there is a turbulance there so you need to put it about 8 inches from the collector or so.

CamarosRUS

Oops, mines in the collector on my shorties, about the only place since it would have to go somewhere in the ypipe if not. Is this a bad problem?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I looked how else I could do it but with the "X" right after the headers its not so easy. I didn't want the LC-1 under the car and right now its mounted vertically on the firewall just above the drivers side head. The WB sensor cable would not let me go any farther than the collector without strapping the whole thing under the car.
The NB seems to be doing ok where it is. Its the one that is at 9:00. The WB is up near the top in the trans tunnel.
I wanted to put it right in the X to read both streams but there's no good way to do that.
I was wondering if I should take it off the instant reading and put it on a slower response. Could be that my bouncing is the reading of the individual pulse coming out of the tube.

CamarosRUS

Your NB is in the same place mine is.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

JP - For what it's worth, I went to the longest reporting interval on my LC-1, the blasted things too fast to almost even read if I didn't. LOL

Looks like your location should be okay, like you said - not much of anyplace else to put it.

I do have the LC-1 module under my car, it's strapped to the side of the tranny with the wiring going back up thru the shifter hole. Seems to work fine there other than the start-up problem I've had with mine since Day #1. Does yours start the heating cycle and then error out and have to be power cycled to heat up again? Mine does, almost every start.

Hopefully the new regulator will solve your other problem. Good Luck!!!

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Havn't had any blink out errors being reported.
Just blinks for warm up then is solid.
It could be thast the pulse out of that tube is the occilation I'm seeing.
Will try reducing the update tonight.
Need to make a little box to hold the LED and the cal button so I can unwrap them off my steering column

The reg was ordered last night along with some CAI stuff to start putting something together on that.
Seems like I could use some additional timing down low (without it bouncing around due to idle error) Will post my findings on the other thread.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

What thread is that?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

There was a thread on the PROM board dealing with Idle Spark.
seems that to keep the RPM from moving around the spark bounces like 10 degrees. Some quick table changes got it down to around 3* and it still seems smooth.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...k-advance.html

Darn Regulator is back ordered. Hope it comes soon.
I can live with this BS for now but will have to go back over everything once it arrives.
Its getting too nice outside now to just look at it anymore

vernw

iTrader: (2)

I hear ya, hope the regulator solves that issue for you!

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I figured while I was waiting for the new reg I would try to get the lower stuff dialed in again and guess what??
As soon as I started it last night that reg must have been full on again.
Instant flooding and choking on fuel.
No doubt its a POS.
Odd thing about it is I don't understand how it is failing at high pressure.
If the diaphram was torn fuel may add pressure to the opposite side and assist the spring tension.
These appear to be simple direct operated reliefs that use the diaphram to separate the Vac from the fuel.
Spring tension pushes on the diaphram to hold the return port closed.
Vacuum will reduce the spring tension by the force of the diapghram area and allows the seat to be opened at a lower pressure.
That part I get but whay do I not have fuel coming out of the vac connection if this was the case?
I don't THINK the spring alone could cause a bind condition and cause this.
Any explainations or conspiracy theories?

vernw

iTrader: (2)

That, my friend, is a d@mn good question. I can't imagine how anything else could be causing this problem though. Do you have a guage on the rail to verify the pressure is fluctuating with this regulator? I'd hate to see you waiting on a regulator and find out that might not be the problem (though from the symptoms it sounds to me like it is)...

Any updates for me on the v4 KL issue?

CamarosRUS

Where can these Kirban regulators be found for a decent price? I checked Summit with no luck and the sites I found are $80 plus not including shipping

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Ordered direct from Kirban Performance. $105. p/n 6547
Welcome to Kirban Performance Products look under fuel and ignition.
Little pricey but I shouldn't have to worry about it for a long while.
The GN regulator is also another option if you don't want it to be adjustable.
It is 38 psi from what I've seen.
It was like $75 from NAPA. I didn't write the part number down on that one.
The Kirban shipped today so hopefully it will be here by Friday.
Havn't done the check on the KL yet. Between work and the gremlins I havn't had time to experiment. (oh yea, the kids too! )
Wanted to build a little box to hold the cal button and LED for the LC-1 and figured it would be nice to include that too.
Still looking for a nice little box to be a dash mount. Was thinking about butchering up my switcher box and make it an all-in-one assembly.
If I get anything worthwhile put together I'll post it up cuz there's allot of people running the combo too.
Going to need that knock light because I can already see I need to do some timing work.
Itchin' to get the thing moving and dialed up

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I'm really beginning to belive that is the problem.
My logs look like I'm sampling one cylinder at a time even with the delay set to max.
NB seems to be doing fine which kind of makes me wonder why.

Put on the Kirban regulator and it runs real nice now.
I would recommend it to anyone!
The motor just seems to run smoother than before with all of the same settings. Was able to go out and redo my cruising VE today for a while and I'm very pleased with it.

Z69

glad to hear at least one problem is solved for you JP.
I guess I need to figure out my AFPR setup first since so many have problems with the stock HSR pos afpr.
Does anybody know how to plug the stock HSR AFPR port. I don't want to leave the fpr in there with a plugge outlet. And I'd prefer not to weld the port closed.

CamarosRUS

Yea don't count on any Holley regulator working. i sent mine back to Holley since when I would screw in the adjustment screw the pressure would decrease after a certain point!!!

Got it back today, installed it and have the exact same result...Wish I could afford a Kirban...

YenkoST

iTrader: (5)

Good news about fixing your problem. I haven't had any problems yet with my regulator.

YenkoST

iTrader: (5)

Also, how do you like your new regulator compared to the stock unit?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Adjustment is easy and it can be tweaked without removing the vac line.
I think I can still get the valve covers off without hitting the reg.
The A/C compressor has to be loosened though.
so far so good, just need to keep tweaking.
Doing it for 15 minutes every third day sucks.
Need a nice long sunny day (away from work)

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Any pix of the Kirban installed? I'm having a hard time envisioning how the AFPR could interfere with removing the valve covers - doesn't it mount in the factory location?

Z69

Does an HSR FPR mount in the stock location???? No...

vernw

iTrader: (2)

DUH....

I forgot he was running the HSR. Thanks for setting me straight, Z. Just call it a Senior Moment...

HiTech5

iTrader: (4)

JP86SS - I talked to you at the car show in Medina on Fathers Day. Car looks and sounds good. I understood you to say that you haven't had it over 3500 rpm yet. That must be pretty difficult keeping your foot out of the throttle.

Good luck!

index

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks,Since then I've gotten a little farther than that.105 mph at 3600 rpm (light cruise) Working to get more spark happening. WB is now reading good even though its in the collector still. Just can seem to get all the power out of it yet.Seems like the TPI was faster due to the torque at the bottom but this does have the ability to pull harder and have felt it at times with >35 at WOT pulling to 4000.Can't do many real hard pulls where I live. 1/8 mile is about the most before I'm looking for the law (and they hear me coming now )Thinking to adjust my base higher and then lower my tables so I'm not jumping the gap as much. Might be some benifit there.

HiTech5

iTrader: (4)

I think your definately right on looking at the timing curve for additional power.

I have found best power at 38 degrees total with the MiniRam intake. This is on a 11.0-1 comp. motor!

Z69

Combustion chamber and camshaft specs will have a large affect on timing specs. I had 10.9 CR and couldn't run more than 29 deg at WOT after a cam swap. And both cams are bigger than JP's.