Johnknight1981

Since i been posting lots of threads and wasting more space on the website I desided to just simply ask those of you that have already made the power to basicly let me know what mods would be best. The hard part is i really dont wanna smash my little brain into the eprom so much. Little as possible on the eprom would be best for me. If you are using the HSR or SR or even an LT1, let me know if you are using a MAF as well because that is what im using atm. im starting to lose my mind for the simple fact I'm in afghan fighting this war we have but im making good money because there isnt a way for me to speed it. Im ordering a T56 trans converstion kit from Hawks on the 15th of June as well as a set of 3.70 gears for my rear end (if they carry them) lots of idea are underway. Also this will be a car used mainly on the street as well as for show. I will take the car once finished onto the drag for numbers as well have it dynoed, this project will not get started until the end of my deployment so it will be a while. Please give me the info i need in order to build the dream car i have been wanting to build. 430hp is the min im looking to get would like to keep it as streetable as i can. Also another good point, im not worried about emissions because the county im in does do emission check. the pump and air will be yanked and if need to be so will the egr (hsr). i have seen quite a few crates that were close to what i was looking for like the sd crate motor but it wasnt enough hp. i would like to keep it a 350 to a 355 engine so a 400 block is out of the wuestion simply because i cant find one because of my present location. Anything is possible so hopefully i can find the mods im looking for.



Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro Iroc-Z completly stock cept for a Flowmaster muffler

14.58 sec. @ 92.38 mph Fayetteville Drag Strip

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I wouldn't focus so much on peak horsepower, unless a piece of paper that embellishes on such a peak is all your honestly after. Four hundred and fifty horsepower is pretty easy with an L98, with the right parts, of course. However, you'll want to maximize that power throughout the entire RPM band, if your looking to run sub eleven second times, while maintaining street friendly manners. It's mainly in your head and cam selection, but you'll want to compliment them with an excellent flowing intake and exhaust. In the words of the late great John Lingenfelter, after being asked how fast it can go; how fast do you want it to go...?

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

...and how big is your wallet?

Johnknight1981

my wallet right now is short atm but not for long by the time this deplyment is finished ill have about 10 to 12k saved.

HiTech5

iTrader: (4)

In order to get that type of power out of 350 cu in. You will need some type of forced induction or a set of 18 degree heads, solid roller and high compression. The MAF should be discarded in favor of something programmable. Have you considered an LS1? Jegs sells LS7 for around $12,000. Best of luck to you!

doc

Normally aspirated, you will never make 450 RWHp with an L98 engine. You are talking about approximately 525 Hp at the flywheel. It wont happen. I agree with HiTech5 above, install an LS7 engine backedup by the T56 and a 12 bolt rear end (or similar) The 9 bolt you have or a 10 bolt will not last very long. The LSx series engines are your only hope of making that kind of power on motor alone.

If you go nitrious or forced induction, will, almost anything is possible.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

good luck out there dude!...rock-on!

5678TA

lsx is not your only hope.. big inch sbc's are another route.. there are alot of people that can put down 425 at the wheels.. but not with an l98.. it can be done with a 383.. also carb is gonna be WAY easier than EFI.. you can just flow more with carb than efi.. and no, you dont need 18* heads for it either.. conventional 23* heads will be more than enough.. a set of AFR 195 eliminators will work.. solid roller, ported vic jr., 750dp and anywhere from 10:1-11:1..

rik89gta

He wants it to be streetable though. A solid mechanical roller, 750 DP, 11 to 1 compression, might be a little too much. But the 383 is a good idea. I'd go with a CNC motorsports shortblock. They have an all forged 10 to 1 shortblock that comes with, (your choice) roller cam and timing chain. It comes out around 3,350 shipped with a warranty. Then just add Your heads of choice, an HSR intake, a set of good headers, and a 100 shot of NOS... You should be able then to meet Your rwhp goals while remaining streetable. Remember Your gonna have to spend lots of $ elsewhere on the car too. Tranny, rear, suspension, fuel system, ignition, every nut, bolt, gasket, etc... All that shat adds up! Don't blow Your budget on just a motor!

5678TA

ya it might be a bit much.. but thats what it takes to do it N/A.. you could possibly go for 500rwhp.. not gonna have very good street manners with a manual though..

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Here is a proven 445 rwhp combo:

*383 shortblock 10.5 cr
*Brodix Track 1 CNC heads
*TPIS ZZX cam (240/240 w 1.6 rr .595.595 lift @.050)
*Miniram intake
*58mm TB
*2210 Longtube headers
*Mufflex 4" catback

My buddy Matt87GTA did this thru a T56 tranny using a 430 (speed density) computer. After your done putting the motor together, take it to a tuner have them tune it and your done.


I put down 375 rwhp with this combo:

*383 shortblock 10.5 cr
*Trick Flow 23* heads pocket ported
*TPIS ZZ409 cam (226/226 w 1.6 rr .554/.554 lift @.050)
*Miniram intake
*52mm TB
*SLP 1 3/4 shorties
*Flowmaster 3" catback

When I get back from Iraq I have to put on my 2210 longtubes, 58mm TB, and Mufflex 4" catback exhaust sitting at home right now waiting for me. My goal will be to get over 400 rwhp with thoes extra parts. I also burn my own proms.

BTW, both of us run our cars on the street and dont have any trouble with them.

Kurt04

iTrader: (2)

I'm kinda in the same boat as you. I have an L98 block in the garage that I want to build up, when I get back home. Only I'm a little concerned about emissions because I most likely will be moving to Houston.

355tpipickup

iTrader: (5)

I put down 375 rwhp with this combo:

*383 shortblock 10.5 cr
*Trick Flow 23* heads pocket ported
*TPIS ZZ409 cam (226/226 w 1.6 rr .554/.554 lift @.050)
*Miniram intake
*52mm TB
*SLP 1 3/4 shorties
*Flowmaster 3" catback

how much less power would a 355ci motor put out with these same parts do you think? im lookin to do a head cam swap over the wenter and this setup mines the miniram intake is what i want to run! ill have a fully ported slp/edelbrock setup on it

Johnknight1981

Houston isnt to bad about emissions. Harris County is the one you will have to deal with, but all you have to do is get the car inspected outside the county. Im from Beaumont and in that genreal area Harris County is the only one that does emission test. Galvaston, Jefferson, Orange, Hardin etc Counties do not do emission test, the only thing they look for it a cat and all the lights work, no cracks in the wind sheild on the driver side, and the horn work, at least 4/16 of tread on tires. Brakes work and the e-brake work. thats it.

Anyway, back the post. I been looking around, and i have to agree, FI just isnt my boat. Im gonna have to switch to carb. Since i cant stand the thought of myself screwing up the computer programs and messing with TB and intakes like that and so, i just basicly gave up the thought of FI. Dont get me wrong, i think FI looks awsome under the hood, looking at HSR's and the SR from accel (that big ****) it looks great under our hoods. but because of the money thing, i think ill just go carb, but i have to think to myself as well of the size of the carb im looking at. Now i download a dyno program and used alot of the crate motor specs. I only really need the car to do mid to earily 12 seconds in the 1/4, guess the weight of the car being about 3600 lbs, and knowing for a fact im using a T56 trans and a 3.7 or 3.73 which ever does fit in the 9 bolt rear that i have. so i do know the gear ratios i have. mainly what i need to do is more research i guess. the exhaust is an easy pick, either SLP or Edelbrock TES headers withy-pipes, use a 3 inch int. pipe and very nice flowing muffler, might go with flowmaster 80 series unless someone has somthing else in mind that flows better than the Flowmaster muffler. I was thinking about just going with a Crate motor and looked into them GMPP has some really nice crate like the 385 fast burn crate and i also heard about a fast burn 400 (need to check out this one) and i defintly saw the zz383 crate with 425hp. Now grant you i did ask for 430 to 450 rwhp i realize that. but i only need to do mid 12's and im happy as a motor head on the autobahn. with the smog pump off and keeping the a/c (like to take my son with me to car shows) using a fiberglass 4th gen style SS hood, im hopping the crate i do end up using will drop some of the weight off the front end as well as all together. not sure if the T56 weighs less or more than my damn 700r4 but like i said im using the T56 for the six gear for highway. I dont want an all show no go car. So looks like im going with a carb. Besides, at least ill have better know how than with a FI motor blowing up the threads with questions that most feel im retarded lol. So, hopfully this will add some spice to this thread....hmmm i think i better see if i can get this thread moved to carb side then.



MOD: is it possible to get this thread moved to CARBS.

90-irocdx3

iTrader: (4)

i have the zz 383 engine with a superram and 52mm throttle body, i am making pretty good power. i just bought a d-1sc procharger for it and it should be installed before friday of this week. i am guessing i should be close to or maybe more than 500rwhp and lots of torque. you could go that way all though that is more like 11-13k.

TonyC

iTrader: (1)

Where are you guys shifting your cars at? I guess I would just have some concern with high revs and the hydraulic roller cams, no?

19doug90

generally you shift about 200 rpm past where your power peaks, so youd have to go to the dyno for that one.

there are SO many things that this post isnt adressing. Do you have 11-12 grand for the motor or car in general?

once you have this kind of power stock brakes absolutly wont cut it on the street youre just asking for trouble.
i guess you can do brakes and suspension a little down the road just dont expect your car to hook up or handle worth a damn.

Not to mention i see no reason why with a set of AFR 195's on a 383 you couldnt easily make 400 to the wheels. If staying EFI i dont think you want to have to deal with having the stealth ram modified so itll take the 1206 gasket, im not looking forward to that personally. The mini ram would probably be the way to go but if i were doing this kind of a build on a limited budget i would probably just throw a nice big carb at it and save yourself some money on having a custom tune done.

You said you want to stay away from having to do as much tuning as possible, but even when you get into the 300 hp range the motor wont run without tuning, this isnt an option you have to have it done if you stay EFI.

ALSO you said you were putting money into some gears. Youve probably got a 10 bolt so dont waste your money, i dont think even a 9 bolt would much appreciate slicks on a 400 rear wheel car.
Youre pretty much looking at either a ford 9" or a GM 12 bolt to hold that kind of power. Was just reading the magazine article off the main page and they were saying back in the day the dana 44 was the axel of choice to throw in there for cheap, not sure why i never hear anything about this axel.

Theres just so much to address man, your fuel pump wont keep up with this kind of motor, youre definitly going to need to upgrade that. You'll be amazed when you start this build how quickly the price tag starts to rack up, especially if youre paying someone else to do the work. Theres more i could say but ill let a few other people reply before i ramble on.

Johnknight1981

ive desided to go carb instead of efi. As far as slicks, i doubt ill even run with slicks, drag redials maybe. judging by price the 383 sbc is gonna be perfect. as far as fuel pump, it already as the FP for tpi so thats not gonna be a problem just need to get a regulator for high to low pressure. the zz383 crate it more than likly gonna fit the bill. if my 9bolt isnt as strong then what could i use? yes the 12K is total on build atm and course as time goes by more money will be add. Brakes is also on the menu of course, gonna go with summits cross drilled and slotted rotors with hawks hps pads on all four corners. suspenion is easy trick really, eibach springs, kyb shocks and strunt. subframe connectors strut tower brace panard bar, might change out all the bushins to poly. trans is a t56 trans. as far as labor...the t56 swap is the only thing im havin someone else do, im doin the rest.


zz383
slp headers
carb cfm??? holley
HEI distribator
full serp. belt system w/ march pulley
no cat 3inch pipe to muffler dualexits
eibach pro-kit
KYB shocks and strunts
summit slotted and cross drilled rotors with HPS hawks pads
might as well go with a little bit bigger sway bars on the fron and back.
T56 trans swap
3.70 rear gears (9 bolt 2.77 stock w/ rear disk)
Chrome Iroc-z 17x8 rims w/ 245/45/17 F 275/40/17 R
Once all is said and done with as far as performance I will re do the entire interior in back leather seats from a fourth gen and all the palstic and carpet will be reaplaced in Black as well. I will repaint my car to either the oringal color (dark metallic red) or paint it dark black Cherry metallic. Anyway, let me know what ya'll think, thanks everyone.

redcamaro83

383 stroker the right cam and a mini ram would do it too. honestly though a decent mileage ls2 with cam would hang with that 383 and still have decent mpg and everyday drive ability. with a 10k budget you can ebay it and still be able to go through spohn for conversion pieces.

19doug90

looks like you got it mostly figured out.

You have a 9 bolt so thats a hell of a lot stronger then the 10 bolt offered in later years. If you eventually put a manual in it, basically it will hold as long as you dont get traction. Definitly wont like a 3K clutch dump with slicks tho.

also to do with the rear end when you figure out how much gears are going to cost (seeing as how its an australian rear end) along with the install it might almost be worth saving up for either a ford 9" or a moser 12 bolt (thatll run you about 2500 installed)

the setup youve listed definitly sounds like youre on the right track tho

Johnknight1981

OK, how about this see if this works up the noodles.

zz383 short block
Edelbrock E-Tec 200cc Heads
ZZ-409 Cam from TPIS
1.6 comps RR
HSR intake system with 30lb injectors and a 58TB
Edelbrock water pump
Eedelbrock TES headers with y-pipe
3inch inter. pipe
80 series flowmaster with dual tips
or 40 series muffler right under passanger side with dual one side exit
Hawks performance mail order chip
Smog and Air removed
T56 Swap trans with a stage 2 clutch and pressure plate
Alumium drive shaft
12 bolt Strange rear end (unless 9 bolt can handle it)
3.70 gears (if optional for 9 bolt and the 12 bolt)
Summit slotted and crossed drilled rotors with HPS hawk pads
Eibach Pro-kit
KYB shocks and struts (non adjustable)
Spohn Lower control arms and panard bar and torque bar all non adjustable
Slightly bigger sway bars up front and rear
weld in subframe connectors
17inch Chrome Iroc rims
245/45/17F 275/40/17R
Hawks Fourth Gen SS style hood
Dark Cherry Metallic Paint
SS badges from 96 impala or 07 SS truck in silver replacment of IROC badge
Black Leather seats from 4th gen Camaro or Trans Am
Replace headliner sunvisor carpet with black
replace or paint all interior plastic black
White face gauges and HVAC white face


i think that ought to do it.......

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

those Edelbrock TES headers are going to choke that 383.. they are only 1 5/8's primaries if that... and if you look at the actual pieces, some of the primary tubes are actually crush bent into the collector..

you really need some 1 3/4 primaries.. and if you really want to uncork the system.. you NEED long tubes.

you're putting all this air into the engine and barely letting it get enough out if you use these Edelbrock headers..

and if you like to replace rotor's a lot.. DONT get cross drilled rotors.. they get stress cracks in them.. the holes are not needed and dont give you ANY more stopping power... blanks are the best bet, good fluid is a must.. stainless steel brakes lines will be what you want.

80 series flowmaster may sound good.. but they are one of the poorest flowing mufflers.. I actually LOST 3 hp when i had one on... i changed to a magnaflow and picked up 10hp.. changed to a TSP rumbler and picked up another 5 hp on top that 10...

KYB shocks are **** poor.. they CAN NOT handle the spring rates of the prokit at all.. and will actually make your car ride worse.. if you need a cheap shock, then at least look into Tokico Illumina's.. if you can go 1 better.. get bilstiens (the bilstiens will better handle the spring rates but its a stretch) if you can afford them.. the Koni SA's are the best, and your car will handle like no other. plus they are adjustable.

you also NEED an adjustable panhard bar if you are going with bigger wheels and tires.. (275's out back) you must be able to center that rear do the tires wont rub.. oh and if these are IROC 17x8's.. 275 are not going to fit.. i mean physically you can mount them on.. but they will mushroom over and be unsafe. minimum width for 275 is 9" wide.. recommended is 9.5" wide..

hope this helps

Johnknight1981

actually yes that does help alot. The long tubes, which would best be suited with the T56 swap. because of minium space under the car and what not i dont wanna have problems with ground clearence...i did take a look at the long tubes that Hawks have, seems to fit really well, might do some more research on it though. Not gonna have a pissin contest with ya about the rotors but, if crossed drilled rotors have such problems as stress cracks and such why are they used so much in racing. then again they may change there rotors every other race and so on like they do with most of there parts as well. The rotors you spoke of "blanks" is that a brand or were you referring to plan jane rotors? unfortantly the iroc chrome 17 inch rims are only 8 inches wide, wish they had a 9 but not happening, if the 275 is to much then i guess a 265 is an option, then again i could go with another rim. you made the fact that i do need an adjustable panard bar in order to make the tires fit without rubing? are you saying that the panard bar keeps the rear end from moving side to side (swaying motion under heavy turning). I did notice you didnt make any comments towards the motor itself cept the TES headers, which does make me feel good that i did pick the right combo for the engine. I will look into the shock and struts you mentioned, the Bil. have heard about plently of times on OverHauled and other TV tuner shows "horsepower TV" so sounds like a good bet. I really wanna stay away from adjustable suspenion parts for the simple fact i dont really know what im doin as far as adjustments, might as well hand me a rubix cube lol. But if need be i guess i could read and research and understand so i could use it. Being that flowmaster is one of the first flowing aftermarket muffler i guess they might behide the others since they havnt changed there design. while others of course go the idea and made it better lol. never heard of TSP but i have heard of dynomax. i really do like the idea of the single muffler idea that i came up with being under the passager side with the dual tips passanger exit, but i dont think it will work with the long tubes......might have to think of somthing for a possible dual set up that i have seen but again the car is going to get lowered. i would love to have a dual exhaust setup with dual tip side exit....defintly be different thats for sure. I did see a blue camaro on cardomain with true duals that the car was sponcered by goodrich, the car sat really low and it may have been just for car shows. May have to check with the suspenion fourms and see what they have to say about great handling and having enough ground clearence. The rims i been looking at closly have been the ZR1's TT2's a few of the centerline rims like the Scorpins and Saber (love the deep dish look on the rear of our cars) and the IROC chromes, 17 inch rims set the cars off that for sure. Anyway, thanks for the feedback, dont give up, much more can be added.....keep throwing the idea

19doug90

the hooker super competition shorty headers are awesome, probably the best short tube header on the market, get the super comps tho, not just the comps and your set.

for the muffler dont get something filled with metal baffling, get something that has a straight through design like a bullet, magnaflow, chambered w/e

and why go with a TPIS cam? they only have a few selections dont they and ive heard so many stories of people having problems with tpis.
Companies like comp cams have a near endless list of different cams, talk to your engine builder on what they think is apropriate for your motor

for the rotors blanks are yes just plane oem style. I chose to go with slotted because the slots help remove debris and resurface the pad, absolutly nothing wrong with them but they do wear out your pads quicker (well worth it IMO).
Cross drilled rotors are to A) lighten the brake component and B) add surface area there for reducing more heat.
Problem is the holes mean less surface area for your pad which if on anything they are going to reduce braking. Cross drilled are for race cars with 6 piston calipers so theyre not worried about pad contact, and they do change their rotors quite often

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

racing team dont use "Drilled" rotors.. they are CAST that way.. drilling weakens the metal. and yes they change everything every race.. BUT.. GT1 GT2 teams dont even use those. they use slotted only..

anyways,

TSP is Texas-Speed & performance.. they have a catback system called "TSP Rumbler" which is simply a 3" dynomax bullet in the "I" pipe.. kind of like a SLP Loud mouth.. but half the cost.

yes the adjustable panhard bar moves the rear axle from side to side to better center the rear.. a must for people with bigger wheels and tires. and the max width tire i would put on a 8" wide wheel would be 255, although some tires run thinner and others run wider.. I have a best friend who is the manager of discount tire.. he is also a very well known road racer up here and knows his stuff, so im passing that along to you.

I dont know much about the cam specs for the one you chose, so i wont comment on somthing im not sure about. I thing will be sure.. a mail order tune will get you to at least run the car.. but you really need someone that can tune it in person for you.. and make sure they have a wideband O2 sensor when doing it.. tuning is everything with this kind of combo.. takes 4,5,6,7 tries sometimes to get the tuning right.. so dont be discouraged once you get this all together and it doesnt run to its best.. its all in the tuning

19doug90

thats cool i never even thought of that, makes perfect sense but just had never thought of it

Rocket-Doc

iTrader: (11)

Skulte makes a T56 crossmember that allows longtubes and true dual exhaust....

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the late response, but in Iraq I dont get back to a computer that often.

I think Matt was shifting around 6400 rpm, Im at 6000 rpm. Matt did have some issues with valve float, but ended up using either 1/16 or 1/8 turn preload on the rockers to fix his problem, he was also using a hydra rev too. I see GM performance parts just came out with a hyd roller lifter that has ceramic internals to keep the weight down, I guess there for the LSX motors, but the lifters are the same as ours. I plan on picking up a set and some titanium retainers as well.

I checked my combo with a vaccume gauge and saw I was pulling 15 in hg of vaccume at an idle, I also have C5 front brakes and road race my car at least once a year without issues. I DO NOT have any brakeing or vaccume issues as of right now, and Im pretty sure Matt does not either.

Last time I checked, I was getting somewhere in the neiborhood of 11 MPG in the city, I havent had a chance to check out the freeway avg yet. But Im also still tuning my combo, last time I was home on leave, I made some NICE drivabilty gains in my part throttle area, just for the 2 weeks I was home so slowly but surely it keeps getting a little bit better every so often.

Johnknight1981, I would stick with the FI, your driveabilty and MPG will be much better than if you went to a carb IMHO. Here you can check out my Z and some of the mods i started working on.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2413601/1

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Thats true, he does! Ive had mine on order now since March, I have yet to recieve it!

Johnknight1981

RANDY92Z,

Man I love the set. Your camaro is damn clean. Keep up the good work. BTW take easy out there, Im not from from ya Im in Afghan myself.

Johnknight1981

RANDY92Z,

Man I love the set. Your camaro is damn clean. Keep up the good work. BTW take easy out there, Im not from from ya Im in Afghan myself.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

several LT1 cars out there with 400whp. you can get there with a LE3 package from Lloyd Elliot.

put that on a 383 LT1 and it will do 430whp and be pretty reliable. it takes good heads and a nice cam but its been done.

i see no reason why a Gen I motor of 383 inches and HSR/Miniram with similar cam cant make 400-450whp. big XFI grind on some good heads like ported AFR/Brodix/Dart etc that flow near 275-300 cfm. that will make power to 6000-6500rpms and should crest the 400-430 whp mark easily.

it be easiler stilll to do a 406 or so with miniram/HSR and same heads. run ZZX like cam or the biggest XFI comp cams offers which i forget the specs but its a nice big cam for a big inch motor like a 406. easily 430-450whp in a combo like that

fun Pain

BOOST, go turbo or super(procharger).... 2-3 grand
you can use it on any engine and make real power (500+)

Fix all the broken driveline parts... 2grand in rear, upto 3grand trans, 1 in susp.

There are a few (maybe myself included) guy and gals on here that run 120-129 mph in the 1/4 in the 10's with these mods being the main reason. That will put you in the power range you want. And trust me you will always want more.



600+, 700+, 800+, 900+
When the car need a news engine... (probably blown apart from being boost happy)
The LS series engines will be cheaper by then, LSX block 2g
L-92 heads less then 1g
or the good old 6.0 iron motor is all over the place anymore

camarodarrell

What kind of lifters are you guys running?

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Right now were both running S/R Comp Cam 87-&up hyd roller lifters. NOT the comp R's. I myself am still running a steel retainer and have not had any issues with valve float up to 6000 rpm yet. I also Im running Comp springs too, I think 987 or something like that? But anyways, I DO plan on picking up some Titanium retainers and a set of thoes new GMPP lightweight hyd roller lifters that are made for the LSX motors.

camarodarrell

Do you have part numbers for your current lifters and those gmpp lightweight lifters? Thanks

Kurt04

iTrader: (2)

I'm flip-flopping also. I was thinking carb'd zz383. But now I think EFI would be a better way to go. Dunno if I will build from scratch with my block, buy a crate long block and EFI setup, or maybe even a turn-key EFI.

Oh well, I have 8 months to do my research.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

No, I dont have them handy right now, but both Matt and myself are using the Comp Cams stock replacement 87-up hyd roller lifters, NOT the comp R's.

camarodarrell

I've found that the LS7 lifters (good to 7000 rpm) that sdpc sells will work well with my combination, a 230/236 cam with .575 lift, reving to 6600-6700 rpm.
They also sell an upgraded hydaulic roller lifter good to 8500 rpm. The price is good on these also.

You can read about them here:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...6&page=1&pp=20

Wheel Spin

To Kurt04 or anyone else in the Houston area:

Trying to work with a builder long distance is a pain, but can be done. I live in the Houston Area, yet work world-wide. Houston (and surrounding counties) is tough on emmisions. I suggest you contact Jay or Owen at ARD:


ARD--Advanced Racing Dynamics
5023 Addicks Satsuma rd, Suite b,
Houston, Texas, 77084
832-593-9140


From I-10 and highway 6, go north past Keith Harrow till you reach Addicks Satsuma. Take a right turn and go about 100 yards down, and you will see the sign and it is located on the left in a business park.


Jay is on this board as Extremeirocz (Houston's Fastest Street-Driven 3rd genner)

Regards, and Thanks,

Dave

Not meant as an advertisement, just recommendation, ARD have done a lot for the 3rd gen community here.