big hammer

I have pics of the ports with a stock L98 gasket layed over top. They were bad. However they did clean up well to make a big straight port

big hammer

Also found today that I had small vacuum leaks around the injectors in the intake because of the awkward angle that the misaligned ports make them sit at. Used Teflon tape for now to fix it.


Also found that I have two bad injectors. Yeesh.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That shouldn't be. If the misalignment between the intake and the fuel rail caused a leak, it would be fuel up top not vac at the intake.

-- Joe

big hammer

Well I sprayed glass cleaner around the injectors and it sucked it in... After a good wrapping of Teflon tape no more sucky sucky

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Maybe you ripped the seals when you beat the injectors into place??

-- Joe

TKR Performance

iTrader: (1)

I bought mine from RobertFrank and I tested the bolts on my original HSR vice the General Tso's HSR, and the threads are the same, for plenum and fuel rails. I'm also going to use my original HSR plenum, as I like the look of that one better. I'm interested to see if the intake interferes with my Bowtie Phase II heads or not.

big hammer

No I checked. Plus I used new o rings and cleaner to slip them into place. The injectors don't fit that snug into the intake

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Interesting... Mine are VERY snug. I'm using siemens 60lb injectors.

-- Joe

big hammer

I'm using Bosch pink 22LB's.

project89

iTrader: (1)

they should be very snug , i oiled my orings and still had to tap the fuel rails with a rubber mallet to get the injectors to seat properly

had to do it with both the precision turbo 85# injectors and the 120# injectors

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Tap? I had to smash the rail down.

How was your injector spacing on the rail vs the intake?

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

i wouldnt sat tap or smash but it needed some persuasion to get them seated fully

iirc the fuel rail spacing was just a touch wider then the manifold spacing

355tpipickup

iTrader: (5)

Can't find one on eBay are they around anymore?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Good question. Procomp/Speedmaster told me they would have more in this spring. I think demand exceeded production. Not sure how often they do a run of these. I imagine they change the tooling out and do a number of intakes regularly.


http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-393...ld-system.aspx

-- Joe

big hammer

Mine is all done, and running well. It's certainly quicker, and revs way higher. I spent a lot of time massaging the ports though.

Sitting around 12.5 AFR at WOT with the 22lb Bosch injectors and 58lbs fuel pressure.

Worthwhile mod. The small amount of low end TQ loss doesn't bother me one bit.

big hammer

Oh and I'm just running on the stock prom too.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

What are you guys doing for an FPR placement? I think I only saw one in any of the pictures and that was very early on in this thread... For that matter I'm wondering what you guys are doing for plumbing in general especially those of you running Siemens 60's or larger (since nothing I've seen have the rails duel fed)?

Oh, and has anyone seen any of the cheap fuel rails for a while? I've tried searching ebay and I see tons of LSx rails but no SBC.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Can u run holley rails? That regular built into rail is nice. Procomp ones looked nice to.

Else maybe edelbrock universal rails and external regulator.

1992Vortec

http://m.ebay.com/itm/181608596083?nav=SEARCH
The pic on the this thread is mine and I'm using these rails. They are alright honestly rather have the holly ones the rails are a treat to seal up

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm running the Holley rail kit. I bought my speedmaster stealth ram from a forum member who had only ran it briefly. I got the intake upper and lower, and HSR rail kit with regulator for like $350 shipped so I couldn't say no.

The rails do work, and I'm running siemens 60lbs injectors. Attached is a picture.

The only thing I did differently is I made a braided crossover for the front. I had the ends so I figured why not.

edit: Noticed you asked about dual feed. I'm running a single -6. I'm running a 410lph walbro in tank pump.

-6 is 3/8, which will flow 144gph @ 4 feet per second. The pressure drop at that rate is around 1 psi.


Guys running dual -8 and single -10 fuel feeds for less than 1,000 hp simply don't comprehend math

-- Joe

RSD

Will a large cap distributor fit with this manifold?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

No.

-- Joe

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

I see these Shen Yun HSR's are still available at the following websites:
http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-393...ld-system.aspx

http://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/74....1048/10002/-1

http://www.revsauto.com/chevy-sbc-35...anifold-system

Does anyone have some current links as to what else I'll need to finish setting this up besides the manifold?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

All sold out.

I'm using a HSR fuel rail on mine. project89 went with the procomp rail kit that's like $60. Lot of options. The injector spacing and bolt pattern is pretty much the same holley/edelbrock uses.

-- Joe

Steve Mack

iTrader: (5)

Called Jegs, they said they could get them, but they would have to be dropped shipped.Meaning 6 to eight weeks wait time.

project89

iTrader: (1)

if u buy a procomp rail set do urself a favor and run a tap threw all the threaded parts of the rails , seems like on mine they didnt put the tappered tap in far enough ao all my good fittings would only go in a few threads before locking up tight

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

Hmm all sold out? Even revsauto?? 6-8 week wait is pretty long, thanks for checking!

The HSR fuel rails look to be a little expensive at $288. Read some threads on mixed feelings about the FPR.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-534-186/overview/

I was reading another thread where someone was using an Edelbrock Victor Series at $84
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/edel...FUOUaQodTCcATQ

Finally the Speedmasters for $80
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-SBC-350-Billet-Aluminum-Fuel-Injector-Rail-Kit-/181608596083?hash=item2a48b74273&vxp=mtr
If going with speedmaster I saw the following FPR's, the first link I believe Orr89RocZ said would work. Not sure if anyone has tried the speedmaster (2nd link)
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/Bui...R+%235071.html
http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-581...lator-red.aspx


project89 where did you find the procomp kit for $60? Or was that a while ago?

project89

iTrader: (1)

the speedmaster/procomp rails are the same those are the exact rails i got i bought mine last year, the speedmaster fpr works just fine , u can snag that exact fpr on ebay cheaper if u look around though

project89

iTrader: (1)

also u dont need a -10 , if ur not replacing the lines in the car a -6 will work just fine

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

Just heard back from Revs, looks like 20 left in stock...
http://www.revsauto.com/chevy-sbc-35...anifold-system

Yes, I don't think I'll be replacing the lines. Good call, looks like I found a -6 on ebay for $70
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-6-An-Efi-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-Black-w-Boost-Ref-Port-/181735577983?hash=item2a5048d97f&vxp=mtr
This system should work on a 350 with AFR 195 heads correct? I suspect some porting as mentioned in some of the previous threads for the HSR. Do you have any pictures from when you set up your system? Or how long it took you to complete?

project89

iTrader: (1)

7 bucks less
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-6-An-Efi-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-Black-w-Boost-Ref-Port-/141676619956?hash=item20fc95a8b4&vxp=mtr
i only worked on mine n weekends so i cant tell u eaxctly how long it took to put on and setup , i spent a couple house porting the manifold base , the reast went together really fast

project89

iTrader: (1)

i may try out this manifold soon
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-SBC-EF...-/141676649546

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

That looks pretty sweet! I saw that too when browsing ebay.

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

Ordered my HSR from Jegs, "No ETA" on the invoice. We'll see how long it takes to ship.....

The Tank

iTrader: (2)

These are some nice intakes for the money.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Not bad for the money. Did require a lot of porting to straighten the ports out.

I just hope they support the horsepower. I probably gave up a little power by switching from the single plane to the stealthram, but hopefully I can make it up by turning up the boost.

-- Joe

The Tank

iTrader: (2)

Boost is always good lol. What I did like about this intake is the ports seem to match the vortec head ports. Although the bolt holes for the vortec are not drilled at least they have the bosses cast into them. I would have bought a Holley intake but they apparently no longer make the vortec stealth ram. All I can find is some places have the polished version and Im not paying over $700 for just the polished version. Shine doesnt make me any faster.

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

What type of tool did you use to port the intake? A die grinder or dremel tool? What type of burs did you use? Have any links to these, I'm new to porting.

The Tank

iTrader: (2)

A die grinder is okay for areas easy to access but for getting up into runners I prefer a dremel with a flex cable drive. As for porting on the aluminum, they make extended length carbide burrs made for aluminum and non ferrous metals. A regular carbide burr for steel will clog. The burrs are expensive but they work great. I personally use the burrs for rough cutting. Then I move to stones designed for non ferrous metals or aluminum. Lastly move on to sanding rolls with grits of choice. I honestly cant remember what grit I use but im sure someone will chime in. I would post some links but im still kind of new on this forum and dont want to do anything thats forbidden.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Variable speed die grinder (1/4" shank) with double cut and single cut burrs. Different sizes/shapes required depending on what part of the port you are working in.

Then drum rolls, to smooth the port. (although that probably doesn't do anything)

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

i use ferrous burs on aluminum , i spray chain lube into the port im working on and it helps keeping the burr from clogging up.
another trick is to have apiece of 2x4 , and if the burr clogs up use the burr on the 2x4 and it will unclog it fast, a scrap piece of cast iron also works well for uncloging it

finish all ports off with a 80 grit sanding roll for the proper texture after porting

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

I appreciate the tips on what you guys use for your porting. I managed to find a 1/4" die grinder for pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-c...der-68831.html

I'm having a harder time finding some nice burrs with a 1/4" shank like those anesthes posted a picture of. I see some used on ebay for not too bad of prices that look like they have some life left in them.

AmorgetRS

iTrader: (6)

Has good reviews:

http://www.eastwood.com/8pc-dual-cut...nch-shank.html

project89

iTrader: (1)

thats a decent set , ur also going to want a long set 6-8 inch long instead of only the std set, they make getting deep into the port easy

if u dont have a big enoughcompressor to run a regular air powered die grinder the harbor frieght electric die grinder is pretty good as long as u dont cover up the air holes in the hand while u use it , its big and heavy so if u get that go slow as its a lil harder to hold steady

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-NEW-1-4-250-SHANK-CARBIDE-BURRS-DB-CUT-SL-4-SE-5-SA-5-USA-MADE-G101-/371344832011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5675e0760b
-- Joe

Steve Mack

iTrader: (5)

If your going to be grinding on aluminum you need to use some thing like bacon fat or something similar to dip the bit in.It keeps the bit from clogging up when porting aluminum.

project89

iTrader: (1)

the spray chain lube works very well for that

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

Ended up buying these, nice find! Good to know on the spray chain lube trick, I'll have to try it out. I have an older air compressor but it should do the trick for the harbor freight die grinder.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I honestly wouldn't use the straight cylinder for anything (at least not porting), the only one in that set I'd likely use would be the egg

I grab a toilet seal wax ring at the HW store for $2.... works awsome as a cutting lube, I usually don't have a problem with double cut burrs clogging in alluminum as long as I keep things at a reasonable speed.

If you're using an electric die grinder you'll either want one that's variable speed (I typically use a big makita), a router speed controller (get a cheap one from HF) or rig one up (I have both the harbor freight one and an electrical box/extension cord with a light dimmer wired in that I use with the big HF die grinder)

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

eh, again, I typically find an egg shape the most useful (that doesn't have one), and after that a tree. I use a small ball sometimes but rarely in a die grinder, but a really small 1/8" shaft one that I use in a dremel flex shaft to work around the valve guides in heads...

I have a few 6" shaft ones that I got fed up with and cut down to about 4" shafts, I've never found a 6" one that is stable enough to do really good work with, the shafts just get whippy at that length if you turn them at any speed. Really, you can reach most things with a 4" shaft.