Auto Detailing and AppearanceTips and tricks on how to make your Third Gen shine! Get opinions on products or how something looks on your Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird.
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I am sure if you sanded down to metal for bondo then some primer won't hurt. I sanded down to metal in spots where the original paint was pealing and feathered the area and primed then painted the whole car. I found the quarts of Rustoleum in the paint section next to the spray paints. I used Rustoleum primer as well to keep the same brand as same brands tend to do better together. I haven't read or seen any duplicolor info.
Hope this helps....
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I haven't painted color yet but I am using the Rustoleum brown rusty primer over bondo. Put it on with a foam roller and wait an hour or so for it to dry. Wet sand 220 grit over a paint stick to find the low spots and repeat. It builds real quick and drys super hard.
Priming the whole car is a waste of time but you want to wet sand every square inch
The paint is located on top of the spray can shelf at my WalMart.
I don't know about you guys but there is a close family friend that has all the tools and space to do it. I'm throwing him $100 to tech and help re-do the paint with me. I also have picked out a kit for the paint, clear, and primer for only $175 including shipping! So that's only $275 for a professional looking paint job. But if I hadn't found this "pro" connection of mine I would have went with this method. Very nice!
I've been planning on doing this method for a few months now, what got me interested (besides the crazy automotive paint prices in CA) was reading a few articles on painting with Rustoleum. One article was a guy that painted his Falcon with it, another was the Charger article I think those used a foam roller, with the rollers you have to roll it on thin and put about 12 coats for good coverage. I've painted on and off since I was a kid (laquers, enamels, acrylic enamels, imron, etc.) so this will be a little different but pretty much similar to acrylic enamel and I hear you can use hardeners also. It's probably best to wait a few weeks before wet sanding and buffing. Acetone can also be used as thinner and make sure it is the oil based Rustoleum. I hear bird droppings if left on for weeks can eat thru which is typical of enamel. Tremclad from Canada seems to be a very similar paint as Rustoleum. Since I'm going to try to match color on my car I experimented and found out 2 parts white and 1 part almond is a pretty close match for the original paint, so do so custom mixing on your own just remember the ratio in case you need to touch up spots. I'll probably use an HVLP spraygun since I already have the setup. Later.
Wow I had no idea you could do this. Think it could spray metal flake or is that too complicated? Has any body tried the basecoat/clearcoat yet? I am looking into getting my car painted but this might be better since its so much less $. Any help would be appreciated. Keep up the good work!
Oh yeah I forgot about that stuff. I have a couple rattlecans of it around here somewhere but I have only seen grey and black colors. I'm thinking of doing blue with one or two stripes down the middle. I'm probly going to paint on the stripes around the bottom too.
I was wondering what the "Hammered" brand of rustoleum looks like sprayed. That seems to have metalflake
i can imagine that it would look awful, probably come out with the hammered finish. I guess if you want you car to that that "olde tyme" wrought iron look, it would be the way to go.
I painted my 1984 Camaro with some sort of Industrial Paint, Some guy on Craigslist Selling 5 gal buckets of paint for $25 a pop. I bought 5 gal of Basecoat, 5 gal of reducer, and 5 gal of clear coat. Using a little of my own suplies, primer, urethane reducer, etc.. I was able to paint this for pretty dang cheap relative to how much paint I have left.
the first thing that comes to mind when i hear metal flake is boat paint, dont put metal flake on your car. Dogfrost that doest look to bad for what 100 dollars and some leftovers you had sitn around, props. Im "proffesionaly" painting mine in our garage tommorow if yall want pictures, its not budget or cheap but ill post em
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R.I.P The EcoDYME
"It's not the tires squealing, its the asphault SCREAMING!!"
I've been planning on doing this method for a few months now, what got me interested (besides the crazy automotive paint prices in CA) was reading a few articles on painting with Rustoleum. One article was a guy that painted his Falcon with it, another was the Charger article I think those used a foam roller, with the rollers you have to roll it on thin and put about 12 coats for good coverage. I've painted on and off since I was a kid (laquers, enamels, acrylic enamels, imron, etc.) so this will be a little different but pretty much similar to acrylic enamel and I hear you can use hardeners also. It's probably best to wait a few weeks before wet sanding and buffing. Acetone can also be used as thinner and make sure it is the oil based Rustoleum. I hear bird droppings if left on for weeks can eat thru which is typical of enamel. Tremclad from Canada seems to be a very similar paint as Rustoleum. Since I'm going to try to match color on my car I experimented and found out 2 parts white and 1 part almond is a pretty close match for the original paint, so do so custom mixing on your own just remember the ratio in case you need to touch up spots. I'll probably use an HVLP spraygun since I already have the setup. Later.
automotive paint prices are insane everywhere.
I've experimented with this (with an HVLP gun) quite a bit (don't remember if I've said anything on this board), but:
- as far as thinning, differnt colors are somewhat different (the biggest difference is the aluminum/siver paint), but in general, mineral spirits mixes better with it, acetone works, but it tends to settle out of it quickly. What I use depends on weather... like normal automotive paint, you use different reducer for different conditions. Nothing, or just mineral spirits will dry _very slowely_ to the point of almost not drying when you get down around 50*F, in contrast, acetone drys quickly, and when added actually accelerates drying/hardening, even under cold conditions. I've gotten mostly acetone to work in 15-20min in 45* weather, but I always use some mineral spirits to get it to dissolve/mix well
- automotive enamel hardener works great with the stuff, also increases gloss and gives it UV stability. Just don't leave it on anything without cleaning, unlike without it where the stuff sits around and drys, with a hardner it suddenly kicks and you have a solid lump of paint.
- you want to color sand as soon as you can without hurthing the surface, wait a few days when it starts getting _hard_ and you'll have MUCH more and MUCH harder work color sanding and especially buffing. OTOH, don't wax for at least a month or so.
the first thing that comes to mind when i hear metal flake is boat paint, dont put metal flake on your car. Dogfrost that doest look to bad for what 100 dollars and some leftovers you had sitn around, props. Im "proffesionaly" painting mine in our garage tommorow if yall want pictures, its not budget or cheap but ill post em
Metalflake rocks... current metalflake in metallic and pearl paints is actually suspended in clear on top of the color coat (usually a 3 stage paint). Old school single stage used to do metallics with the flake mixed in the color coat, but i'm not sure if the flake was the same (or how they kept it from just getting coated with pigment and covered). FWIW, you can't color sand single stage metallic paints, because you end up exposing the flake/sanding off the pigment and getting something much more metallic and much less the intended color.
The EcoDYME
