Cwaterboy1

iTrader: (3)

I am sure if you sanded down to metal for bondo then some primer won't hurt. I sanded down to metal in spots where the original paint was pealing and feathered the area and primed then painted the whole car. I found the quarts of Rustoleum in the paint section next to the spray paints. I used Rustoleum primer as well to keep the same brand as same brands tend to do better together. I haven't read or seen any duplicolor info.

Hope this helps....

Arizona IROC

iTrader: (4)

I haven't painted color yet but I am using the Rustoleum brown rusty primer over bondo. Put it on with a foam roller and wait an hour or so for it to dry. Wet sand 220 grit over a paint stick to find the low spots and repeat. It builds real quick and drys super hard.

Priming the whole car is a waste of time but you want to wet sand every square inch

The paint is located on top of the spray can shelf at my WalMart.

89FB1stCar

I don't know about you guys but there is a close family friend that has all the tools and space to do it. I'm throwing him $100 to tech and help re-do the paint with me. I also have picked out a kit for the paint, clear, and primer for only $175 including shipping! So that's only $275 for a professional looking paint job. But if I hadn't found this "pro" connection of mine I would have went with this method. Very nice!

quickkris2006

iTrader: (2)

after reading this it makes me wanna start sanding

Fords88Bird

I've been planning on doing this method for a few months now, what got me interested (besides the crazy automotive paint prices in CA) was reading a few articles on painting with Rustoleum. One article was a guy that painted his Falcon with it, another was the Charger article I think those used a foam roller, with the rollers you have to roll it on thin and put about 12 coats for good coverage. I've painted on and off since I was a kid (laquers, enamels, acrylic enamels, imron, etc.) so this will be a little different but pretty much similar to acrylic enamel and I hear you can use hardeners also. It's probably best to wait a few weeks before wet sanding and buffing. Acetone can also be used as thinner and make sure it is the oil based Rustoleum. I hear bird droppings if left on for weeks can eat thru which is typical of enamel. Tremclad from Canada seems to be a very similar paint as Rustoleum. Since I'm going to try to match color on my car I experimented and found out 2 parts white and 1 part almond is a pretty close match for the original paint, so do so custom mixing on your own just remember the ratio in case you need to touch up spots. I'll probably use an HVLP spraygun since I already have the setup. Later.

schreier77

I like your paint job! What modifications did you have to do to the 4th gen TA spoiler?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

6 pages pf Posts before yours.....Who were you asking?

I put on an OEM wing. Drilled new holes, welded the old ones shut.

Some people buy aftermarket ones that fit the stock holes. But they pay at least 3 times the price I paid.

schreier77

Actually to the original poster but your answer works just as well, Thank You!

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Ah...His is the same as mine, kinda.

Drill new holes, fill the old ones, & fab center post extensions. Nothing hard about any of it.

KatsCam

Just a thought here, but I used Zymol for the first polishing of my fin after repainting it. Was very satisfied with how it turned out.

townaj

Wow I had no idea you could do this. Think it could spray metal flake or is that too complicated? Has any body tried the basecoat/clearcoat yet? I am looking into getting my car painted but this might be better since its so much less $. Any help would be appreciated. Keep up the good work!

Arizona IROC

iTrader: (4)

I was wondering what the "Hammered" brand of rustoleum looks like sprayed. That seems to have metalflake

townaj

Oh yeah I forgot about that stuff. I have a couple rattlecans of it around here somewhere but I have only seen grey and black colors. I'm thinking of doing blue with one or two stripes down the middle. I'm probly going to paint on the stripes around the bottom too.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i can imagine that it would look awful, probably come out with the hammered finish. I guess if you want you car to that that "olde tyme" wrought iron look, it would be the way to go.

Dogfrost9

I painted my 1984 Camaro with some sort of Industrial Paint, Some guy on Craigslist Selling 5 gal buckets of paint for $25 a pop. I bought 5 gal of Basecoat, 5 gal of reducer, and 5 gal of clear coat. Using a little of my own suplies, primer, urethane reducer, etc.. I was able to paint this for pretty dang cheap relative to how much paint I have left.

LB9Iroc87

the first thing that comes to mind when i hear metal flake is boat paint, dont put metal flake on your car. Dogfrost that doest look to bad for what 100 dollars and some leftovers you had sitn around, props. Im "proffesionaly" painting mine in our garage tommorow if yall want pictures, its not budget or cheap but ill post em

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

automotive paint prices are insane everywhere.

I've experimented with this (with an HVLP gun) quite a bit (don't remember if I've said anything on this board), but:
- as far as thinning, differnt colors are somewhat different (the biggest difference is the aluminum/siver paint), but in general, mineral spirits mixes better with it, acetone works, but it tends to settle out of it quickly. What I use depends on weather... like normal automotive paint, you use different reducer for different conditions. Nothing, or just mineral spirits will dry _very slowely_ to the point of almost not drying when you get down around 50*F, in contrast, acetone drys quickly, and when added actually accelerates drying/hardening, even under cold conditions. I've gotten mostly acetone to work in 15-20min in 45* weather, but I always use some mineral spirits to get it to dissolve/mix well
- automotive enamel hardener works great with the stuff, also increases gloss and gives it UV stability. Just don't leave it on anything without cleaning, unlike without it where the stuff sits around and drys, with a hardner it suddenly kicks and you have a solid lump of paint.
- you want to color sand as soon as you can without hurthing the surface, wait a few days when it starts getting _hard_ and you'll have MUCH more and MUCH harder work color sanding and especially buffing. OTOH, don't wax for at least a month or so.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Metalflake rocks... current metalflake in metallic and pearl paints is actually suspended in clear on top of the color coat (usually a 3 stage paint). Old school single stage used to do metallics with the flake mixed in the color coat, but i'm not sure if the flake was the same (or how they kept it from just getting coated with pigment and covered). FWIW, you can't color sand single stage metallic paints, because you end up exposing the flake/sanding off the pigment and getting something much more metallic and much less the intended color.

1fastrock

could i use this same method with a more professional style matco spray gun?

gotabekidding

Looks pretty good, regardless of cost!

Glad you 96'd the roller version though.

I painted the windshield surround black as well, but I used semigloss.
It flowed more with the T-Tops

Nothing is wrong with creativity

Gibson27

iTrader: (1)

I read the entire Mopar thread about using the rust paint and there was one dude who "upgraded" to Interlux Brightside Polyurethane boat paint. The shine was incredible for what paint it was and it's really durable, since boats are subject to prolonged uv, salt, weather, etc.


If I do paint my car, it'll be with the Interlux paint, alot better than rustolem but cheaper than a "real" paint job.

jay_d

UMM, any of you guys ever hear of single stage urethane? i painted my old k10 with a gallon of it. $80 for a gallon of white ppg paint, and it doesnt orange peel out the ying yang like rustoleom does

FYRCHKN

UMM, yeah I've heard of it. I tried the Rustoleum at the time just to see what kind of results I could produce. I have since sanded ALL of it off and repainted the car with implement paint.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING RUSTOLEUM!!!!!!

Sure, it looks great when it's waxed, but it requires ALOT of maintenance to keep the shine.

Check out the link in my sig for a MUCH better alternative.

MarionCobretti

The use of Brightside is well documented on the Moparts forum and elsewhere. I've had this in mind for a while if I found a project 'Bird with the options I wanted, which I finally did. I picked up two quarts of yellow and one of red, and will be painting it a wacky shade of orange this weekend. Here's what she looked like when I got her a couple months ago. I opted to give the Brightside a shot since I have no place I can spray it, and people do seem to have gotten good results. And the factory paint, as you can see, is just gone, man. I can't imagine it will look any worse, even if I do a horrible job. If it looks truly awful, I'll pretty much be right where I am now: needing to invest $$$ in getting it sprayed at a shop. And if it looks good, well, that will be awesome.

FYRCHKN

No place to spray it? I sprayed mine in my gravel driveway...under an oak tree...and had to pull gnats and mosquitoes out of the wet paint with tweezers.

Are you planning on rolling it? I really feel sorry for you. That's really gonna suck. I know, I tried that too. I hope you budgeted at least $150 for sand paper and have a couple of weeks to sand it.

Pleas read the entire first post in this thread. And check out the thread that is linked in my sig. I was the guinea pig for this method on this site. I went through the headaches myself and I'm only trying to save you the headaches and frustration that I went through.

MarionCobretti

I know, man. I've read this thread (and many other paint threads). I think your car is great. You found your own way, and I applaud that. I literally do have no good place to spray it, though. My driveway is just long enough to fit the car into with a few feet in front and behind. It empties onto a one lane one-way street that has cars parked on the opposite side, and the neighbor's house is about 15 feet off to the side of it. I don't want to risk getting overspray all over other people's cars and property.

So, yes, I'm going to give the ridiculous foam rollers a shot. I have lots of sandpaper and time. I don't really plan on having the car on the road until this time next month. I want to at least attempt doing this myself, and I've kind of taken a "damn the torpedoes" attitude. I know it's going to suck, and it's going to be a ton of work, and even in the best case scenario it's probably not going to look as good as if I'd sprayed it (particularly since this will be my first attempt at painting a car). But it is going to look better. And, hey, you work with what you've got, right?

..Just A Kid

Mad decent.

When I blow out my candles I'll wish for the cojones to do this to my car..

88gta83

Thanks to this web site I painted my 1988 GTA with massey ferguson red enamel,with reducer and catalyst it cost me 62.00 dollars,I was lucky and have a brother who supplied the sand paper and sealer,and also had a dad with a heated shop,I painted this car in 2 days,check it out on my pics or look up tropicjester12 on youtube!

nyckid

updates

KatsCam

I would love to see what it looks like now!

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Question to the OP… what tail lights are on the red FB?

BTW nice job on the paint!!! very impressed.