Larry Dunlap

Iguess everyone probably knows this, but how do you get a firebird headlight to go up temporarily until you can fix it permanently? I believe you crank it up with the little dial next to the headlight, but I don't want to break anything

thanks

deadbird

If it's not going up/down on it's own.. it's already broke so don't worry

If you need it usable until fixed, dial it up via the **** and unplug the affected motor (this will keep the motor from trying to lift or lower it when you turn the lights on/off). You'll have the infamous 'wink' look untill you fix it.

Larry Dunlap

I tried turning the **** on that side, nothing, no resistance whatsoever. the gearmust be broken inside,. tomorrow Im going to removethe cover and look

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Did you want to repair both headlights for under $20? I manufacture and sell a headlight repair kit for the 1987-92 Firebird headlight actuators. The OEM gel bushings inside yours have failed and broken into a spoonful of chunks.

If you raise the headlight door while turning the **** you may be able to get it to stay open temporarily.

Good luck,

Lon Salgen
Top-Down Solutions

Heckler

I have the same problem, and I took it apart today... The large white gear inside the gearbox turns just fine, but the metal post isn't attached to it right so the light won't move. I couldn't figure out how to get the white gear out of the casing either, any assistance on how this is done?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I e-mailed you a link to my instructrions to repair the headlight actuator.

Lon

Keith_Indy

Don't know if your year is the same, but on my 87 you have to insert a ball point pen or something in the hole in the top to get the dial to work.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

No. The **** at the top is the end of the motor shaft (also the same shaft as the worm gear that turns the large nylon gear). The reason why you're feeling no resistance is that the 3 OEM gel inserts or bushings that were filling the space between the inner cavity of the nylon gear and the hub on the actuator shaft have disintegrated to a spoonfull of chunks. Replace those chunks with the Delrin bushings and your headlight unit will work again for years. Delrin doesn't break down as the OEM gel bushings did and has great impact resistance and natural lubricity similar to teflon.

Lon

deadbird

Pro

Sorry I cant help, but thats the reason why I didnt buy a 4th gen transam (my second choice was my 91 Z28). Going down the road and the headlights flopping down, or taking a long trip and the lights dont come up... kind of scary.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I can see you passing up on a 4th Gen Firebird in favor of a ThirdGen Z28 for personal taste reasons (example: "I dislike flip-up headlights"). I don't understand passing up one for the other over fear of a potential problem with the headlights screwing up on you. There ARE aftermarket solutions to repair those headlights as well, replacing the OEM plastic gear with a CNC machined brass gear with viton internals.

Lon

Pro

Well, when I was searching for an fbody I didnt really know that much about them, so I had no idea that there were aftermarket parts for the headlights (I didnt even know how reliable they were). Noticed the vette had them also.

Larry Dunlap

I orderede the kit from TDS to repair the headlights and it worked great. $18 something plus shipping with good instructions. Actually my 16 year old son did the work and I just supervised. Excellent product. One question tho, I thought there was supposed to be enough stuff for two headlights. The other one is still working but is on the way out like you said. There are bushings and one gasket extra, but not the motor gasket and more nuts and bolts for the housing. I needed those nuts and bolts since both of the old ones broke off. I can get nuts and bolts but the motor gasket would be handy. Did I get shorted some parts or what?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Please, read the instructions that I include with the kit. The screws that attach the motor are usually the ones that break off. You only have to remove the motor to repair the drivers-side (aka type I) headlight actuator. There is a solid flange molded on the OD of the gear that hangs up on the worm drive of the motor shaft. You don't have to remove the motor to repair the passenger side (aka type II) headlight actuator. All you have to do is pull off the side cover on the passenger side actuator and the gear comes right out.

I'm in the process of revising the instructions to help clarify this and eliminate an unneccesary step. It is just so frustrating that customers repair one headlight actuator and think that the repair method for the other one is the same or don't read the instructions at all. I thought that including a FAQ insert with the gaskets would resolve the question as to why only one is included with the kit (it has helped cut down on the calls and e-mails asking "why did I only get one motor housing gasket").

Those gaskets are the highest cost item in the repair kit and are frequently not needed at all. They are only needed if you happen tear the original gasket. You only tear the motor housing gasket IF you remove the motor. I don't know why you'd want to go to the extra time and trouble to remove something that isn't necessary to repair the headlight actuator.

Yes I certainly COULD include extra screws, nuts and another gasket and bump up the price of the kit a couple of bucks. It would sure make my life a lot easier. I'm starting to realize that I'm fighting a losing battle trying to get my customers to read the instructions. What is is about us guys that we think we can "figure it out" without having to read the instructions?

I hope this answers your question.

Thanks,

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

Keith_Indy

It's got to be the same gene that makes us not want to ask for directions. I'll stop and let my wife ask for directions, but I have to really be lost to ask for directions...

And as far as not reading directions, guilty as charged. I haven't read directions since I started taking apart things when I was 10 or so. At least until I can't figure it out myself.

And being in the software industry and having to write instructions for updates, and updates where you have to do certain things in a certain order, it certainly is frustrating to have customers calling in with problems because they didn't read the instructions.

The best method I've seen is to have a bright pink page with a warning on top. And then list what needs to be done. Not complete details, but saying the drivers side and passenger side have different instructions for repair.

Something bold, and simple, to notify them that they should read the instructions.

Heckler

So it took me forever but I finally fixed my headlight... Thanks lonsal for updating your instructions, the first time I read them there was no differentiation between left and right hand disassembly, I didn't want to wait for shipping time, so I used the bumpers that stop my drawers from slamming as substitutes for the bushings, I'm sure the fiance will get over it

As predicted, I snapped the head off both my motor mouting bolts, and since I'm an idiot, I have no idea how to 'drill out' a screw. I tried, and completely mutilated my motor and the screw hole.. Eventually I made a hole big enough to get a nut/bolt in one side, and I just lockwired the other side down. I tried it with just one bolt in, but the headlight would only rise up, when I tried to lower it down it would torque over due to the worm gear trying to back out of its gear and torque-ing the motor casing causing it to stop, and then the motor would cut out, thinking it was shut. I wired it down, and it works fine, though it looks really messy and hilarious. One of these days I'm gonna order your kit, when I have patience for shipping time, because the drawer bumpers aren't gonna last long, and my passenger side is going out too. But at least I got a funny story out of it, and added a little more 'character' to my car :P