Bondo?
#1
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Rebuilt and modified 350
Transmission: rebuilt T-5
Bondo?
Ok, heres the deal. My front spoiler is torn, and there is a car show coming up in about a month. I am taking my car to Maaco for a quick paintjob and some body work. I dont have the money for a new front spoiler now, so I was wondering if I could bondo it for now and let them paint it, just so it isn't torn for the car show. I have no intention on using this as a permenant fix, just something temporary untill I get the cash to buy a new one. Any input?
#2
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
If I were to 'quick fix' it, I'd get some sheetmetal for a backer plate to go behind the split. Fire some screws through the front & the backer plate to tie everything together (countersink the heads), and grind (lightly) smooth. Then use a plastic filler (such as 3M) to 'bondo' the crack. Should be durable enough to get you by for quite awhile (untill you rake the front across something.....)
Just my opinion though....
Just my opinion though....
#3
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Car: 94 Firebird
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: t5
usually you buy a new aftermarker fender because it is cheaper than to repair the old one.. but there is nothing wrong about using mastic (Bondo being a brand). if well done and sealed, mastic will last as long as your car... but, I can get a brand new fender for 65 bucks canadian... so I'd say wait for the next pay, buy a new one and get it painted
I'm sorry... didn't get the torn part... best way to do it is fiberglass then.. hard, will weld nicely with the fender... but, don't bump it against anything because it will crack for sure
I'm sorry... didn't get the torn part... best way to do it is fiberglass then.. hard, will weld nicely with the fender... but, don't bump it against anything because it will crack for sure
Last edited by Irhal; 09-09-2004 at 10:02 PM.
#4
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I agree w/Deadbird's method- in fact, if that's the only thing wrong, might as well make it your permanent fix! Why call it temporary if it's bulletproof?
Maaco tip: Cover anything you don't want painted! Tape over your door handles and locks. Tape over the black metal edge of your hatch window- they'll just tape & paper the window, not the metal edge. You know that black section in front of your Camaro's headlights? Put tape over that. Wrap tinfoil around your exhaust's rear tailpipes and tips. If you can, remove your radio antenna. Tape over your grill. Remove foglights and blinkers and etc. Tape over any Camaro emblems. Try to make any tape jobs "tight" against emblems so they'll get some overspray "behind" the emblem but not on the front of the emblem itself.
And this is a great chance to remove any stupid "Dealer" sticker from the rear of the car!
When you drop the car off, remove the license plates and the front license plate holder. Remove the taillights and "tie" the bulbs up out of the way so they're not resting on the rear bumper, and take the taillights home with ya. To prevent paint from getting into the car from the missing taillights, just put pieces of tape over the holes that will be left behind. I actually used those holes to tie the bulbs out of the way, and then taped over the holes.
Maaco tip: Cover anything you don't want painted! Tape over your door handles and locks. Tape over the black metal edge of your hatch window- they'll just tape & paper the window, not the metal edge. You know that black section in front of your Camaro's headlights? Put tape over that. Wrap tinfoil around your exhaust's rear tailpipes and tips. If you can, remove your radio antenna. Tape over your grill. Remove foglights and blinkers and etc. Tape over any Camaro emblems. Try to make any tape jobs "tight" against emblems so they'll get some overspray "behind" the emblem but not on the front of the emblem itself.
And this is a great chance to remove any stupid "Dealer" sticker from the rear of the car!
When you drop the car off, remove the license plates and the front license plate holder. Remove the taillights and "tie" the bulbs up out of the way so they're not resting on the rear bumper, and take the taillights home with ya. To prevent paint from getting into the car from the missing taillights, just put pieces of tape over the holes that will be left behind. I actually used those holes to tie the bulbs out of the way, and then taped over the holes.
Last edited by TomP; 09-10-2004 at 11:14 AM.
#5
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Car: 1984 TRANS AM
Engine: 350 gm crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
NO WAY, it will crack and fall off. Use 3M bumper and plastic repair or Duramix! No backing plate needed! V it out with a grinder, put 2" masking tape on the back so the filler doesn't fall thru. Then glob it on wait 20 minutes and grind it down flush. Then you can finish it with bondo but I preferably repair it only with the repair material. pull off the 2" tape off the back, grind it a little then apply more material. You can only get this stuff from a bodyshop supply(yellowpages). Maybe maaco will let you use some. This way when its done its perminant! check out my body and paint work: http://members.cardomain.com/black84transam
Last edited by BLACK TRANS AM; 09-10-2004 at 03:55 PM.
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by BLACK TRANS AM
NO WAY, it will crack and fall off. Use 3M bumper and plastic repair or Duramix!
NO WAY, it will crack and fall off. Use 3M bumper and plastic repair or Duramix!
I don't have GFX (and never will) so I'm not too sure about what they're made out of
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#8
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THANK YOU! THANK YOU!THANKYOU! BLACKTRANSAM!!!! You're close on the method though, your way could still eventually
crack.
NEVER EVER use BONDO or any other brand plastic filler for that is used for repairing
metal
on a urethane part, NOT COMPATIBLE!!!
Again, I have outlined a repair method,
here
Do not skim coat a proper repair with putty either, same reason.
NO WAY, it will crack and fall off. Use 3M bumper and plastic repair or Duramix!
crack.
NEVER EVER use BONDO or any other brand plastic filler for that is used for repairing
metal
on a urethane part, NOT COMPATIBLE!!!
Again, I have outlined a repair method,
here
Do not skim coat a proper repair with putty either, same reason.
#9
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Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Hmm all i did on my camaro nose put wipe a layer of long strand kitty hair on the back side of the crack.Then after it dried i V it out and put some short strand on the V.Seemed to work ok.i filled in the holes after knocking down the short strand with poly putty.
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