ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

My 1985 camaro needs to be painted. As of right now i have:
- red 91/92 gfx and bumpers off the car in need of repairs and paint.
- black doors fenders and a hood in need of sanding and painting
- t-top car (roof and quarters) to be painted

i am thinking i should repair and paint the gfx and sand and paint the doors and such off the car and assemble. Or do i prime everything then get the car together then shoot it all with final color and clear.

And finally i was looking at this
39913 - BUMPER STRIPPER stripper for the gfx and bumpers. -any thoughts

and i was looking for a deep jet black to use, any suggestions? i was thinking ppg since alot of ppl have said good things. Jet black, deep black...i guess im looking for ppl's opinions and more importantly pictures.

thanks for any help, and i did a few searches but i can't find the threads from not to long ago on the whole painting process write up....anyone know where that is?

ScottyRS

iTrader: (2)

Prime, paint, and clear with the car in pieces. Then put it back together. Give the clear at least 24 hours to dry before you start reassembling it though. And there's another thread that was started today concerning stripping the bumpers. You may want to look at that.

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

thanks, checking that out too.

they keep going back and forth as far as sanding / using stripper on the bumpers though...so im still not sure on which to do.
and along the same lines since im doing the pieces off teh car i suppose i need the flex additive? but i don't think ill be able to get the pieces on withing 48 hours so should i even bother?

any thoughts on which black to go with?

and where can i purchase the ppg clear, base and primer from?

or should i buy primer / clear from somewhere else?

and should i use ppg or dupont or other?

pretty lost on all this....all i know is i have 500/600 bux to spend on sand paper and paint and want to put some serious hours into doing a decent paintjob.

sorry for the million q's but id like this to come out good

bigmaciroc

i know you are hearing use go back and forth with stripper and sand, but i cant get threw to this guy, so maybe i can to you, i do this everyday, the way to get a perfect job is to take your time with sand paper, that is the only way i do my custom work, any black color is REALLY Close to the same, here at lexus the code is 202, and we will paint a benz, porsh, viper, anything black we spray with 202 and it matches. as of where to perchase, you need to find your local paint supplier, thell have it all, i hope i can be help to you, but i dont know what side your agreeing with on the other thread, but if you go to the sanding, please let me know if you need help with anything, sanding, bondo, refinishing, anything, i will be VERY glad to help you.

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

i work at a speed shop, not a body shop so i don't really have a strong opinion. I was leaning towards using stripper and sanding but still not sure. And as far as which black to use i was looking at the pictures there really isn't that big of a difference so ill just go with what the supplier has thats close to a jet shiny deep black.

and i greatly appreciate any help you can give me as far as the sanding process. I can't find the painting thread with the write up someone did a few months ago, so i need to know what grit to start with on plastic and metal, and do i just use soapy water when i wet sand or???

i have a garage set up for painting for a couple of weeks and was looking to do a decent job, nothing like a show car.

bigmaciroc

WELL, FIRST YOU should start sanding by using p180 grit paper, it cuts really good but not to deep, its good on plastic and metal, the suplliers say that primer sufacer will cover p180 scratches, but its on of those things, i personally dont like that, i would just spend alittle more time and go back over your p180 scratches with p320, your primer sealer is able to cover p320, so the surfacer wont have any problem, when you wet sand you primer surfacer JUST use a wetsanding block with p600 in plain water, than after you clean it with a wax and grease remover, you spray your primer sealer, you DONT want to sand this, if you do, you should use wet 600, the reason is your base coat will cover p600 scratches, but you then put your base, if you sand your base, than apply another coat, than its just your clear, 2 coats, first medium wet, 2nd, wet to how you want your finish. than you let cure, wet block sand with p1000, than p1500, you can stop there and buff, but i take it one step further with p3000, it makes the difference between factory and show car. did i miss anything?

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

wow very useful info there

first - primer is dif from sealer right? if you could clear up how many coats of primer i should use / and going back and forth with primer and sanding then primer then sanding then sealer then base then sanding then base then clear then sand and sand and sand then buff.

and 2nd i should be able to get all this stuff from paint to clear to stuff to repair my bumper from a local paint supply place? i don't know of any so you konw the easiest way to find one? / long island ny

also tied into number 2 would a painting place also have plastic epoxy to repair a tear and a few punchers / scrapes in the front and rear bumpers?

and lastly - i want a deep shiny black so i take it 1coat of med-wet and 2nd coat wet would do it? or should i add another? or do 3 coats of light/medium?

thanks again

KEVIN G.

Josh,
Search for the "Project Resurrection" thread, by JeffW. He was on the boards last year and I helped him quite a bit. He had an excellent grasp of the basics, and kept an open mind, while painting his car for the first time. He went on to do some realfire custom paint work, and built a nice little business and has a website. I keep in touch with him now and again.
It is very gratifying to paint your own ride, and if you can WOW a few people with your attention to detail...all the better.
I, and it looks like bigmac, will be happy to help you in any way possible, we will give you the standpoint of a professional. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys here...But sometimes it gets hard to separate some of the myths that have been perpetuated by the people that "know a guy", or their "brother has a buddy that paints".
The other thing to consider is the cost involved. We have access to funds that pay for the materials for us. most guys on here have to shell out big dough for supplies. And that's tough for a one-time excursion.

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

ok to answer some of my last question.

2k primer is a primer and a sealer.

and i need a self etching primer under that.

does the brand of the primer and sealer have to be the same as the bs and ck?

and i checked out a few of those top name manufacturers websites but can't find any dealers open to the public. How would i find a dealer of akzo sikkens or another high quality primer / paint manufacter?

/side note to kev - im still reading up on jeff's thread / its kind of hacked up and slammed together. /between that thread and others and ppl like you and bigmac i should be able to lay down some decent paint...not deep enough to shave in but ill just keep shaving for the bathroom then...sacrafice im willing to make...lol.

bigmaciroc

the paint reps. recomend that you use all the same material threw out the whole project, i personally have mixed product a few times and it works, but you still run the risk of have a chemical reaction. spray your self etch threw a gun that you really dont care about, that stuff is bruttal on gun, and dont spray it over body filler, where are you located, i can call my Akzo rep and see how to get you some material. as of primers, i use ColorBuild primers, it comes in black, white, blue, green, red, and yellow, so you can lay down the basic color as your primer and use less material to "paint" the car. ColorBuild is a Primer and a sealer also, it just matters how you mix it.

bigmaciroc

it may sound dumb, but orielys autoparts carrys dupont for sure, but you might wanna call them and ask what they carry

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

no o'reilley's on long island.

and the colorbuild primer is a 2k primer? or do i have to shoot the sealer separatly?

long island, ny lindenhurst 11757 to be exact, is there an akzo dealer/ place that carries it around me?

thanks so much.

bigmaciroc

What exactly do you mean to shoot it sepratly, you have to spray surfacer, than the sealer after sanding, you have to mix the primer 2 different ways. is that what you mean?
----------
what exactly do you mean sepratly? you have to mix it two different ways, 1 for surfacer, than you block sand, than another way for sealer. does that answer your ?

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

i was under the impression there is self etching primer to lay down first which you mix reducers / activators in

don't sand that

then shoot primer with reducers and sand that down (may be more then one coat)

then a primer with a sealer in it which doesn't get sanded,

this will allow me to have the car sit a couple of weeks before base coat /clear coat.

KEVIN G.

Close...
Etch OR epoxy over bare steel, 2 part, but not hardened, better holdout, more durable.
PRIME and block for build. level out your panels for the flat, straight, sharp look you want on your thirdgen.
SEALER. just before paint, it does just that, seals out any unwanted edges and bare spots or breakthroughs...(within reason, it will not cover up poorly sanded panels or poor prep work). BUT, it goes on just before paint.
Dont let it set in any stage too long.
you MAY, however, seal with an over reduced version of an epoxy, (PPG's DP for example, and it CAN set for up to a week before topcoat, But I wouldn't)

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

yikes ok a few more q's lol,

etch or epoxy?= i was going to use epoxy on the bumpers where there are a few tears, so i can't use the self etching primer over the epoxy?

prime for build ok - so im just mixing in enough reducers to run the stuff through my gun

and sealer - after primer before base ok

but what about all the people running around with "2k primer" for months or years before getting the money to spray base and clear. I would think they would sand off a bit and re prime and re seal but i thought id be ok for a couple of weeks?

/and i guess its a stupid q right now but i thought 2k primer was a sealer and a primer in one can, or do you mix primer and sealer together, with a bit of reducer and spray that?

thanks again.

JeffW

what paint brand you using? most primers are also the sealer, to use the primer as a high build you add more coats for sanding, as a sealer its one coat or two.

read your tech sheets for the paint line your using it will tell you how to handle their products, be sure you have a great respirator and use it always. wear gloves and protect your eyes.

i got all my paint and products from hokpaint.com house of kolor great stuff. their service is tops ive been using them over 2 years with no problems

jeff

JeffW

kev check out the site lately? InfernoGraphix

stevesz-28

hey i work in a body shop and when we paint stuff we do all of the painting (base coat/clear coat) on the car because if u paint a door or any thing u have the chance of sratching the freshly painted door while hanging it.

JeffW

i would paint the gfx complete off the car. as for the doors i would pull them jamb them complete base and clear and install, then paint the outside complete primer and body work i would door with the doors off just for neatness. with the doors off and jambing them you get a nice clean finish and get the inside areas where paint dont normaly go on its own. the gfx should be off other wise it covers sheet metal that needs paint and the edge is always ugly when painted on the car.

KEVIN G.

Hey Jeff,
Nice to see you back...I have popped in on the website every now and again...Looks great. I like some of those tanks and guitars!

Most definitely
I do, however like to prime and block with the doors on, to get that nice clean razor sharp line in the center. Then before last prime pull them off and jamb them like you said. Final prep and blow it.