EK76

I was driving home in the rain, it had been like a monsoon earlier, but it was barely raining when I wiped out. I'm on an onramp doing about 70 (which really wasn't fast for this ramp) and the rear end suddenly slides left about 90 degrees...I'm a little worried here because the car is almost sideways on this ramp. I try to correct, but the rear doesn't snap back into place like usual. The car then does a nasty 270 degree slide in the other direction and now I'm backwards, and about to get a nasty lesson in physics. It first hit on the rear driver's side quarterpanel, then in the front and finally came to rest.

The results were not pretty. As you can see the quarter panel was completely crunched and there is a 1.5 inch gap between the hatch glass and the weatherstripping. The front was a little better, but the bumper support under the car is torn and needless to say the alignment was a little off. The front doesn't look as bad as the rear, but there was some metal on the inside of the car that is bent. I can't tell what it is because I'm gonna wait for Mr. Insurance man before I even attempt to open the hood.

There is some damage to the other side of the car. The passenger side fender was pushed over and I don't think the passenger door will open propertly. There are also some dents on the passengerside from the stress of the collision, one in the quarter panel behind the door and on the roof pillar.

Has anyone ever gotten their car back from a mess like this? I'm sure Mr. Insurance man will want to total this thing out.

archemedes

I have fixed far worse (I used to rebuild totals and did a few rollovers) I did a convertible 3rd gen that the rear looked like that, and if it hadn't been a vert it would have been easy (it's hard to match up to hacked parts)

Legal Disaster

iTrader: (6)

That sucks to hear about your accident and your car. Good thing you are still in one peice though, your car has seen better days though, looks like it will be totalled. if you part it out shoot me a pm about your spoiler. Good luck with everything

ryan91rs

iTrader: (1)

well get some quotes and call the insurance man. Go from there. Its a unibody so i'm sure it's very involved, but it will cost some$$

Tmic87TPI

iTrader: (3)

that sucks, looks like it was very nice, insurance will probably total it out. but I think you could buy it back and pay to have it fixed. good luck

archemedes

bear in mind given the age of the car it will be totaled (they use kelley blue book value usually so anything over that value means total)

online170

Do your doors open and close nice? Ie: have they shifted back or forward? Also, when your sitting inside the car, and you close the door, is there still a space between the dashpad and door panel?

If yes, then i would say its worth fixing, because the body isnt too bent. Biggest challenge would be to fix that front frame horn, the rest is just welding.

Im not an expert on the rear though, other than the quarter, not sure what all is structural back there.

No one in there right minds drives around anything older than 6-8 years, so theres obviously sentimental value, in that these cars are classics. Usually worth more to us, than anyone else. Ofcourse you gotta weigh the $$$ issue too. Depending on what you have into the car, and what it means to you, it might help you decide.

Maybe if you share some numbers with us, both what uve put in, and what the insurance will offer, maybe we can help narrow it down.

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

my advice, be realistic and write down everything your car is.. try to see what you can buy one for in a 200 mile radius. chances are it will be more then your insurance tries to write you off with. get the money from your insurance and ask about the option to buy the car as well. some companies do this, if so part it... only fix the car if they will only give you less then 1k and you can't buy the car.

these cars are still plentiful, getting few due to accidents like your own but still plentiful. good luck.

eric17422001

If you claim it on insurance you will get it totalled for sure, which will in some states mean it is un title-able again.

Or you park it and fix it yourself in your own time and money.

2fast4u92z

not to be a downer but I see you are in Michigan and If it is for sale I am in and pics of car before? Thanks

AC

iTrader: (3)

I'm on my 4th thirdgen...luckily a mint / pristine one. The previous 3 I've lost ALL to crashes. I will say that front end accidents like the one you have is fixable but that rear damage....eek. That's part of the unibody and there will be mucho cutting / welding that will need to be done to get it back close to where it needs to be. If you look underneath towards your driver side rear seat you'll probably see section of the boxed frame area bent...that's bad. Sorry. Like kandied said, get as MUCH as you can from that hard earned insurance money and find another car in the best shape possible.

TIMMYS89GTA

iTrader: (28)

Man that sucks,sorry to see your car suffered such a beating.I found myself in a similar situation a few years ago with my 87 IROC.Fortunately I just spun off the road in the rainy/wet road conditions and had no damage to my vehicle.That was the day I learned not to drive a thirdgen like you stole it on a wet road,they like to kick around sideways on ya.Anyway,hope you can get it fixed.Good luck man, Tim

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Apparently it was too fast.

ryan91rs

iTrader: (1)

You sound like my dad. the master of the obvious short statements.

CG_1985_Z28

ouch!

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Guess I'm getting old. I've had a couple good scares driving in the rain and since then have changed my driving on damp or wet roads. Lucky me it didn't take a crash to make those changes.

Julie Bergman

F-bods do not like rain and hydroplane like crazy. That big fat surface contact patch f-bod tires have becomes a liability in any degree of wetness. 70 mph sounds too fast in the wet if there is any acceleration or turning involved. I'm with Evil Cartman on this one!

The car will be a lot of $ to fix in the rear. I had similar damage to the rear of my 4th gen in a racing accident and it took a lot of labor and a donor car to get that handled.

Kevman

irockid86

the thing with this is one day you can take the same corner in worse conditions and nothing will happen the next day a little rain will send you for a loop. i think when driving in any kind of weather condition the best way to get experience is in a open parking lot/ frozen lake. a place that there is very little to hit and no one around. really you need to develope a feel for inertia with your particular car and know exactly what amount of speed/ turning will kick a car side ways and what stearing will bring it right back to straight. i always had a pretty good peddle feel for my jeep but i have not had enough time behind the wheel of the camaro to develop one yet. until i do, i too will drive slow in the rain.

Julie Bergman

Good idea to see what the surface offers you in a safe place. The only problem with that thought is public roads, even race tracks, collect water in different places and different types of pavement have different types of grip due to different rates of water absorption. So, you should start slowly and gradually speed up as you get a feel for the conditions. When the car steps out a little or hydroplanes then back off. You, driving the f-bod, should let the idiots and those with AWD, 4x4 fly past ya! You will not even be able to keep up with the normal rate of traffic in wet conditions. Better yet, park it and drive something else with skinnier tires and more tread!

EK76

I've had this thing for 9 years, and I've been p*ssy-footing around in the rain and snow most of the time. I guess I had to run out of luck sometime. Like the man says, apparently it was too fast. I don't know the status of the car yet, but if it's going to the yard I'll try to see if I can get you guys some parts.

Julie Bergman

Best of luck to you getting it fixed.

quickL98

iTrader: (2)

your car is definitey fixable, depends how bad you want it. that 1/4 panel can be replaced if you know a local body shop that might be wiling to work with you. you could save cost by working with your ins. agent as well. best thing is get an estimate 1st, and round up receipts for any thing that may have recently been replaced prior to the loss (ex. new motor , trans, big A/C repair) you may recieve more of a settlement. also if you decide to settle on a given amont and still keep the car to fix talk to some collision guys you know smaller shop are proably more willing to let a car linger as you pay off the bill. call the salvage yards see what a "used" or "LKQ" 1/4 cost. the beauty of used parts is that they are painted factory parts and not the inferior aftermarket chinese B.S. thats out there. i had a mustang clipped years ago. and i saved alot of intial cost up front by taking the car apart myself(R&I time ex. "r&i left handle .60hr @ $42) and just letting them finish it in primer. and getting it painted down the road. i've fixed some pretty mess up cars over the yrs... that wouid be a gravy job.

klause83z28

Yes kelly is satan. Insurance company's use them constantly. I swear a low mileage 1LE is worth $10 to the kelly bastards because it's more than 5 years old.

Cheers!!

TheMutt

you're looking at serious frame time, a replaced quarter fender hood lights bumpers, not much can be found aftermarket, prices can be high, a complete paint job when you're all said and done.

you are looking at probably 4 - 5 grand work of damage if I had to guess.

quickL98

iTrader: (2)

show picks of gaps of the other side of car please.hood to fender yada yada...
this will help with damage analysis.