dnovotny

I've read many articles from magazines claiming that in '92, different adhesives and assembly practices were used improve chassis stiffness by 30%, and techniques used to eliminate squeeks and rattles. Anybody have a '91 and '92 to compare, or know if this is true?

Thanks, Dave '91 T/A

MrJ

It was a two part thing. Some stiffening was done in '91... the body glue was used for the first time. In '92 it was used more extensively, and extra sound deadening was added as well. This is according to the GTA Source Page at www.gtasourcepage.com


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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter

Built on Wednesday

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

The 92 also had beefier welds. I don't know the reasoning behind it, but I assume that GM switched over some machinery or went to a new technique of some sort.

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AmorgetRS

iTrader: (6)

I have a 90 and a 92, 90 Firebird and 92 Camaro. They say they did extra stuff, by in my 92 I cannot feel it at all. My Bird has a lot more miles on it... so I don't know, but I actually think my Bird is held together better.
Later,
RS

JPrevost

I had an 86 and now a 91. I've striped both down to the sheet metal and they look the same. I really don't think it helped the rattles much because the same large sheet metal surfaces were there. Not like the used heavier metal in different places. I bought a roll of b-quiet sound deadening for $109 and installed all 90^2 feet of it and the car is quieter than all my friends cars. Even my friends 2001 1.8T. I was suprised and so were they. We calculated it out and if I did it all in dynomat it would have been over $380 in material. Must say between the sound deadening, SFC, and strut tower brace, the sound deadening was the most rewarding for my daily driver.

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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list), getting new engine in summer

Chris Etemadi

JPrevost: were did you get your b-quiet sound deadener?? I have never hear of it before. How good do you think it works?

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91 Z28 5.7l Camaro
T-56, Cross Drilled Brakes, KYB's,AFPR, 3.73 Gears, Borla Adjustable Cat Back, Hypertech Chip, Hooker Headers.
more to come....
My 91 Z28

JPrevost

www.b-quiet.com
Works great. It's the same as dynomat just without the logo print. From what I've used and the price I can't see why anybody would use dynomat over b-quiet. Same thickness and b-quiet is less than half the price of that other stuff. I didn't use ALL of my 90^2 ft. but I came close and I've got 2 layers on the doors and hatch and second layers on the large flat floor boards. It was really easy to install. Just used a scrappy utility knife against smooth concreat to cut the pieces to a general size and then layed it all out. After first layer I went over the whole thing with a heat gun and used the utility knife to get rid of all the air gaps like ontop of the hump. I'm very impressed with the results and when I get back home I'll be taking the interior out once again to take pictures and show how everything was done. I think the $109 was well spent considering it made my car interior noise as low as cars costing $30G and up.

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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list), getting new engine in summer

dnovotny

JPrevost, you've given us half of the answer. The B-quiet reduced the outside road noise a lot. But how did you eliminate all the nasty squeeks and rattles in the car when you took the interior apart?

Thanks, Dave '91 T/A

82 TRANS AM

In mid '91 they started gluing on the outer rocker. It was'nt an atempt at stiffening the chasis but eliminate the popping of them under load. The only ones that are weak are the t-top models. They all should have frame connectors.

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Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
72 Vista Cruiser 455
90 Olds Trofeo
80 K-10 w/snow plow
Painter @ Chevy dealer
GM junkie

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

While I had the 90 RS Convertible torn apart a bit to install my trunk release solenoid I also took some steps to remove some vibration, squeeks & rattles. I installed some Dynamat. Also I did a rap test and found some surprising things were vibrating. The door jamb air vents. I used Goop Auto adhesive. I like it because it skins quickly, is clear and cleans up easily. A lil dynamat inside the hole, then a couple of dabs of Goop around the vent. No more vibration. Also did it to the window & tonneau (hatch release for you coupe guys) switches. Also a few dabs on the edges and mount points of the center console cover before re-attaching. I have the Custom interior with split rear seat back. I found the outer hinge point is a metal to metal contact and can rattle. I put a steel washer and a couple of plastic washers and a little grease. No more rattle. Also dabs of Goop on the mountinng and contact points of the rear plastic interior trim pieces. I also used used plastic shopping bags to wrap the jack handle and a few emergency supplies in the storage compartment. I used rags previously, but figured the plastic bags were better as they don't hold moisture and get mouldy. I have lots more to do, but I wanted to share what I've found so far. Good luck, Lon.

JPrevost

Okay, to answer the question on how to get rid of all the rattles. It's actually pretty easy once you remove all the plastic panels. Problem areas are the panels themselves when they don't have all the body clips so make sure you get those taken care of. Next you want to look at the rear seatbelts. The top retracting unit is only held down by one bolt so check to make sure they're both tight. Next you're going to want to look at the license plate and tail lights. Turn your stereo up, close all windows and stand outside and find all the vibrations, it's usually at least one of your taillights which needs to be tightened (thumb screws). Next you'll want to check that the spare is secure, my friends car sounded like such crap but when we took out the spare it was a noticable difference. I don't use a spare anymore, don't like the weight and I figure since I have AAA and live in either NJ or Columbus Ohio I don't need to do any tire changing on the side of the road. Okay, now please do something about those door jam vents. As for the front dash and center console there is really nothing as long as all the bolts are tightened. Check to make sure the center console is bolted to the shifter (on auto only) to those metal pieces don't clank and squeek. Okay, onto the doors. The top of the handle is bolted on fine but the plastic piece behind it (between door panel and handle) sometimes gets loose and vibrates big time. Next you want to check to make sure the window motor is secure, sometimes that gets loose a little and that is a big rattle. Also check the door unlocking mechanics. Sometimes the long (un)locking rod isn't snapped into the plastic guide. A lot of times that isn't on because the previous owner forgot when he put the door panel back on. I think that's about it. Also make sure all your struts and shocks are good because those front struts can make your car sound like crap if one of them is shot. Does that answer your question?

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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list), getting new engine in summer

dnovotny

JPrevost,
Thanks for all the info. I've done about half of the things you've listed, but I'll try out the other half.

Thanks, Dave '91 T/A