Stauf

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I finally ripped out the interior. And the rust was worse then I expected. For the most part the pans are in good shape, but would like some insight on how bad this area really is.

lmidden

thats not good at all considering thats been patched already its missing the channels thats suppose to be in the floor pan. do you have any pics of the bottom of the car to see if the original pan is still partially their?

2007xl50

Yeah that's what I was thinking as well. Is there any other patches in the floors?

W.E.G.

The repaired floorboard is ruined because the PO never fixed the leak that allowed the floorboard to get wet.

That floor will never be dry unless you gut it and start replacing sheet metal like you are building the Queen Mary.

You only showed the floorboard. I will assume the toeboard, firewall, windshield channel, and cowl... and likely other areas of the body and frame members are also damaged.

Plan on pulling the windshield too in the process.

You can drive around with a smelly, and wet, interior, or you can completely disassemble everything from the sheet metal, and get busy with the sawzall and the MIG.

W.E.G.

Just got the second pic (toeboard) to load on my phone.

You don't need me to tell you that toeboard is destroyed. As in a "ten" on your scale.

Everything has to come apart, and you better be able to do your own welding and wrenching. Otherwise, unless you have big bucks to advance to a restorer, I'm sorry to say that car is on its way to the pick-a-part.

Stauf

iTrader: (2)

Amazingly enough.. The rest of the car and underside is pretty much rust free. What really gets me is that the PO spent the time and money to fix the floorboard the first time, but then stopped there. If he was going to fix it, fix the leak and fix it all the way.
Either way, I have TOO much money already in to it to part it out. I guess I will just enjoy what time I have left with it until I my feet are scraping pavement.

W.E.G.

Are you going to put the wet carpet back in it?

Please understand, I am sympathetic to your dilemma.

Mine has been three weeks at the shop, dealing with similar, but less-extensive issues.

Stauf

iTrader: (2)

Old carpet is pulled out and living in my trash can. I already have a new carpet that was ordered last year. My intentions were to install the new carpet, which is why I yanked the old. Will defiantly try to fix the leak before new carpet goes in

W.E.G.

You likely won't know where the leak is coming from until the windshield is out.

You can't patch the windshield channel from the back side.

lmidden

fro what it looks like its coming through were the pedals go through the firewall

navy02ws6

On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being 100% rust-free/perfect and 10 being a giant gaping hole where a panel used to be, I'd give it about a 6.5-7. Looks like you'll be replacing that floor pan. Rust and leaks can ruin a nice car, spend the extra $$ and do it right, even if it means you have to wait to save up some dough. I'll hopefully be sending my '91 to the body shop soon for leaky t-top rust damage, and plan on having to put a windshield in it it too, which means I'll have to wait on paint. At least I'll have a solid car though.

nosajwols

iTrader: (1)

Is it the car from you sig (vert)? If so it could be as simple as the top leaking.

Two other areas to look into:

There could be a hole in the firewall just below the main electrical connector (where the firewall meats the wheel well). Leaves and stuff get stuck there and they tend to rot there. From the inside it is above and to the left of the pedals (more or less).

There could also be leaks in the cowl. The seam sealer fails and allows water between the two layers of the firewall. Rotting it out and letting water inside the car through the rust holes.

There are more areas but on my car I had both of the above.

mikesz1984

i am going through this exact thing on my vert right now. my leak came from the inner toe board where asc mounted their frame connectors. its design allows dirt salt and water to hold itself against the metal and eventually eat through it. Also all of the seam sealer that is there peeled off by hand it was so saturated with water. i picked up a complete floor pan from rock auto and have been in the process of welding the new one in(after i removed the factory frame connector). Your floor looks the same as mine did, and i can tell you that is into the rocker as well. my advise is to get it fixed properly now, and you would have the car forever, if you dont cut that out and replace the inner rocker and all of the other bad metal, it will be gone in a couple of years.

here is my progress so far
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/conv...vert-club.html

Stauf

iTrader: (2)

Wow Mike, looks like yours was much worse then mine. Gives me hope. Like I said earlier, way too mush already invested into this to let it go. I have some disposable cash to throw back into it, but my problem is when to quit. ( Unfortunately, I won't let my wife knew she was right about buying a POS.(She is a former owner of a 92 vert , which I wrecked))


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Stauf

iTrader: (2)

Looks like I might go to a restoration thread.


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2007xl50

Where do you stop? Never really. A project is done when you sell it. I mean sure I have a plan for my RS and it's a budget build, but at the same time if I wanted the car to be perfect and like new there is tons I could do. I look at it this way. If the car is not a DD and just a fun car do what you can and is most important to the car and you then go from there bit by bit.

Stauf

iTrader: (2)

Alright, after a couple rain storms, I went back into the car. Bone dry. I am thinking that the leak is coming from snow melting, and absorbing though the vert top. I sprayed water on the top and around the windshield, and still nothing. When you want it to leak, it won't.


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alan91z28

everything is relative, yours can certainly be fixed relatively easily... take a look at what my son and i are doing to take care of a few rust issues on my original '88 camaro i just refound last fall...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...inal-88-a.html