laxin

After washing my car and drying the rocker panel, I discovered rust on the under side of the driver side door. After talking with a few people, they believe that water hasn't been draining and has sat at the bottom of the door, thus causing the rust.

I wanted to see if anyone else has had the same issue and more importantly, how they fixed it?

No pictures as of yet.

nr82ta

I had that problem on my trans am. its a common problem. I fixed it by fabricating sheet metal for the underside of the door and welded it in, then you can drill holes in it so it drains. If you don't have a welder you could use bondo glass as a temporary fix just grind all the bad metal off and spread a coat on. then sand it if you want. it hardens really strong and it will last a decent time If you do it right but its not the best way Also if you pull of your door panel, you can get to the bottom of the door skin from the inside and vacuum the dirt and sand out of it so it doesn't keep holding moisture in.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Sometimes the outer window seal lets too much water and/or debris into the door.
I've seen doors with oval shaped holes in the bottom and also with rubber plugs in place. If the holes are open they should allow the water to drain as the car is driven. You might be able to see the bottom through the window slot using a flashlight.
You may also want to check the inside front fender when the door is open and see if it is filled with leaves and other debris.
Example: http://image.highperformancepontiac....ont_fender.jpg

knight72

larger pic:

Mirror Image

iTrader: (2)

If it was holding water then you may have rust in the seam you can tell by opening up your door and look at the seam were the door shin meets the shell at the bottom of the door if it is thicker then the top seam then you will need a skin or new door

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

I had this problem with an S-10 pickup. The was was not cancer yet, just a few bubbles. I bought one of those long window style planter boxes, sealed up the holes, filled it with metal rescue and soaked the door bottom over night. Then just cleaned it up sanded it a bit and repainted the inner door.

laxin

It's been awhile. Thanks for the replies. I've attached a few pictures and am hoping this helps. At this point I'm hoping to do damage control and hopefully don't have to replace a door.

laxin

one more picture

PAFORM350

I had that on a car I had owned. I sandblasted the rust then filled with filler, smoothed it out, painted car and was golden

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Filler will never fix rust, just delay the inevitable. That door looks too far gone to mess with IMO. By the time you see rust on the outside coming from inside to that extent, game over.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

The pic below shows what looks like the rubber plugs I was talking about. Even though it looks like there's an extended slot for the water to drain I would still remove the plugs. I agree that the way the rust is that it's pretty far gone now. Hard to get that rust out once it's in a seam like that.

laxin

Too far gone was not what I was hoping to read. Any recommendations for what to do next? I'm looking into a rust encapsulator like Eastwood or POR-15. Would that help or am I screwed? and If I'm screwed what should I do?

phasevariance

You can try POR or another rust inhibitor to slow it down. That might buy you some time until you can get it repaired properly. There are no real guarantees with that and you might just be pissing in the wind.
If you can keep it garage kept and off winter roads even better.
Long term I think it's easier to just replace the door with one from a boneyard. Then have it repainted to match the car.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

IMO, most products are not going to get in there and can instead cause water to hold in place. It's metal sandwiched together where capillary action pulls water and also salt in between them. You might not like the idea but grease may be the best way to slow the rust. It may drip down over time though.
That's the principle of WD40. (Water Displacement, 40th formula) I wouldn't use actual WD40 though as it would be more of a mess imo.
Make sure that whatever you do, don't block the water from draining.

Either that or separate the metal, patch, treat it, repaint, weld and seal. lol

3rdGenHitman

2 things.
1, u should just cut it out and replace it if you have access to a welder. not an "easy" job if you dont kno body work too well, but doable. that way there is no possible rust issue.
2, the best thing to prevent rust is actually bees wax. they use it in sprayable forms in what is called a "wand" in the industry to get into hard to reach areas.
por 15 would be a bandaid, but if u are gonna keep the car, just cut the door bottom off and replace it, or find a new door. u can buy door bottoms from body supplies for like 15 bucks.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Even better. Thanks for the info. Looks like it's also called cavity wax? Also Waxoyl or Rust Fighter-I?

Links:
http://www.goferauto.com/ruforinpacaw.html
http://www.randallsautobodyny.com/ra...ust-waxoyl.htm

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

The b

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

The bottom of my doors have a decent amount of rust that you just reminded me to fix lol. when I bought my car there was rot holes under both of the rear ground effects, I had to cut out and weld in new patches. I definitely wish I saw that before I bought the car, could have haggled him even lower