ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

I have no affiliation with this company but I found their site on another car site and thought some of you guys might be interested. We all know Dean went through Global West for his hubs on his big Wilwood setup and they ran him around $500 for the pair. Here is another option for about half the price:

http://www.kore3.com/index.html

I'm not sure about their dimensions but I'm sure a call to them will take care of that. These are more specifically designed for early GMs and others (they give a long application list for their brackets) but they look nice for the money...just a thought.

Ed

1983Fbody

The price is right @ 200.00 bare (pair).

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Link doesnt work, for me at least

Forshock 85TA

Just called them

Use the tall spindle hubs, bracket will be out next month.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know how much lighter these are than the cut-down rotor-hubs each?

Dewey316

So what does that tall spindle version do to the offset that we currently have with the cut-down hubs? and what bearings would it use?

CrazyHawaiian

This looks promising. Its going on the list ... hehehe

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

I called them on Wednesday and asked a bunch of questions about the hubs, specifically for a 3rd gen application. They said "they're working on it" but in short they said the "tall spindle" hub will work on our cars and that the specs for the hub were the same for both 3rd gen designs they were working on and the "tall" kits/brackets they have already made. They weren't really forthcoming on many measurements except for the OD since I asked about the hub being used on a LS1 kit and would need to fit inside that specific rotor. I didn't get the feeling that they liked some of the questions I was asking, I thought the guy I was talking to was thinking I was trying to steal some of their design ideas or something. It would use the same bearings as our current hubs and rotors would use, either the standard Set 34 outer or the larger Set 3. Look in the link on their site for other parts and the bearings will loo really familiar. I didn't ask that question since the guy seemed a bit nervous anyway. I do know they are cut from 6" OD stock and turned down from there just to smooth them up.

My opinion is that for street use, our hubs are fine and the price is right for what we use them for. For a higher tech and lighter application, I'd use these hubs. I may use them on my '70 RS project but that's way down the line.

Ed

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

PS: I also just read this from their site:

"KORE3 billet hubs decrease track width .03" [.8 mm] per side over stock applications, making the overall track width .06" [1.6 mm] narrower than stock."

They're concerned about 2MM? You're kidding me....

And I also don't like the fact that they only offer 7/16" and 1/2" studs (so far). Maybe the 3rd gen specific hubs will use the M12 studs.

Ed

v6#21

The thinner radiused back kind of concerns me. They are not very thick on the backsides for being aluminum.

They are claiming these hubs to be 2.8lbs *without* races, grease caps and lugnuts.

My Aluminum G-body hubs were designed for a heavy 4000lb car roadrace application (not drag race only, they are designed for extreme lateral loading without cracking).
Mine have a combined weight of 5.5 lbs each. Combined meaning *with* races, lugnuts, and grease caps. Stripped down mine are probably around 4 lbs compared to these thinner ones at 2.8 lbs.

Just food for thought- seem kind of risky to me. Thats why I didn't go with Wilwoods original aluminum hubs and build something off of them, they were too lightweight also and are strickly for straightline use on drag race only racecars.

These ones I bought from Global West were actually contracted through GW from Wilwood themselves for a customers G-body roadrace car. Yes, Wilwood went to GW to have them designed and made because Wilwoods original hubs cracked on the customers car.

Also, Doug at GW informed me that he would not recomend going to small lugnuts than 1/2 in aluminum hubs because he felt the smaller surface area would be risky-He would only make them to take the larger knurled 1/2 studs and not the smaller 7/16 or 12mm sizes. Aluminum is softer and can pull through if too small.

And for the record, the GW hubs cost me $500, but that all included hubs with anodized hardcoat black finish so they do not corrode, the bearings & races, billet aluminum grease caps, 1/2" lugnuts, O-rings, seals, spindle nuts, and tax & shipped to my doorstep.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info Dean, always appreciate the length you go to to explain stuff. I understand your concerns.

Ed

nape

iTrader: (1)

I don't have the link handy, but I remember reading about A-Sedan cars having reliability problems with aluminum hubs and going back to steel like everyone is currently using.

Not sure how aluminum will last on the street, but if you use your car hard on the track with R-compound tires, be weary of AL hubs.

Loosing that weight is nice, but not if it comes at the cost of reliability. I think that money would be better spent on track time or spares for most people.

Zerstörer

v6#21

Thats because the ones they were using were cheaply made. You get what you pay for. Don't skimp on cost. Plenty of race cars in this world have been running on aluminum hubs for years overhistory with alot more cornering G's than a AS car.