crrllmich

Ok brand new 1LE calipers and pads. Please tell me why my e-brake wont engage the brake pads all the way against the rotor. Dont tell me the adjustment screw because that hex key isnt laying on the floor because it looks pretty.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

is the return spring too long? maybe need to shorten it. i had to do the same on my ls1 rear brake swap.

crrllmich

I just tried like 15 min ago. Its just gonna make it to where the pads wont come off the rotor.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Is the system fully bled? Reason I ask is that once the piston is in the right place and the pads are just against the rotor, the e-brake lever and stuff should pull them against the rotor. Maybe there's too much room trying tobe made up by the e-brake.

Ed

crrllmich

I am just taking it to a shop im done with the POS.

MurcoRS

Are those new, used, or rebuilt calipers? I had a '92 Corvette (same calipers) in my brake shop that wouldn't disengage the e-brake. Cable was adjusted to the point where there was slack in it, no pressure in the lines holding the pads against the rotors, and they were supposedly rebuilt less than 3 months prior. When I pulled them off and disassembled them the piston that the e-brake lever pushes out to engage the brakes had a ton of varnish, corrosion, and just gummy "goo" all over the pin that kept them from retracting back into the main piston when pressure was released. Perhaps your's are stuck "in"? Do the brakes engage and disengage with the brake pedal?

crrllmich

There not engaging...not stuck in..


there brand new. Had the same problem with the old ones.

MurcoRS

Just to clarify, the service (regular) brakes are not engaging, or just the e-brakes? And you have new pads and rotors as well, is the caliper bracket on the axle the correct one? Is this a conversion or OEM?

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

get rid of the ebrake

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I've followed your frustration with sympathy. Shot in the dark here: the e-brake cable in the above pic looks nothing like the one I'm using. Could that be a possible problem:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...89-lebrake.jpg

JamesC

MurcoRS

I just read your original post about this problem, I'm thinking you may have a bad master cylinder. However, before swapping it try bleeding the system one more time while compressing the pins (under the caps) alternately on the prop valve ends. Do 3 rounds pushing the front pin in, then 3 pushing the rear one in - repeat twice. After this, check for rear caliper operation and line pressure. If this doesn't help, bench bleed the master cylinder fully checking the front outlets for bypassing. If this doesn't correct your pressure it would point to a master cylinder problem as everything else is new. I would avoid DOT 5 personally, but it depends on your intended use. Looking at the pictures you posted at the beginning of this thread your install looks right, the calipers aren't sliding to far out on the mounting pins, and the rotor clearance at the bracket looks good too so it looks like all the right parts are being used. The e-brake cables look a little different from the ones on my car but the travel is fine and there are probably 2-3 different variations of this cable in the aftermarket. I wish I could see it in person, sounds like something simple is just being missed...

terryr

In the pic the return spring is totally bound up. Something is wrong.

crrllmich

Ironic you posted. I just switched to the first style ebrakes cables again. I had to take a dremel to the inside to widen the hole and the outside to make it fit into the bracket. But after doing that they work perfectly now :-)