Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
#1
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Car: 1986 Trans Am. She's a mess.
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
Amongst the many problems with my 86 TA, is the brakes.
I have 4 wheel disc, with new rotors/pads up front (about 150 miles on them), and the rears are in good shape as well.
Pedal needs to be 100% pushed in, to stop the car. If I let off even half an inch, the car starts rolling.
Took it into a mechanic, and their advice was this:
$1000; to install new emergency cables; and new rear calipers, as mine are apparently not even properly attached. Rear brake pads are just floating there, dangling. Also, one of my brake lines from the master cylinder has been replaced with a compression fitting, and this is bad, apparently.
They've given me bogus info before, so I don't know how much faith to put in this diagnosis.
I get that without the rear brakes working properly, that I'll lose some stopping. I also get that the 4 wheel disc setup, isn't amazing. Upgrading is out of the question right now.
I'm going to get it looked at, by Just Brakes, or another actual brake repair location; just wondering if I should expect the same result?
Just seems that if my front brakes do most of the stopping....that even with the rear ones shot, it shouldn't be this bad.
As a side note, and possibly important: When I got the car a month ago, it wasn't doing this.
I just am curious whether this is more crap that they're feeding me, or I'm really looking at $1000 for the calipers and cables, plus "around 3000 or so, to really fix the brakes"
Thanks.
I have 4 wheel disc, with new rotors/pads up front (about 150 miles on them), and the rears are in good shape as well.
Pedal needs to be 100% pushed in, to stop the car. If I let off even half an inch, the car starts rolling.
Took it into a mechanic, and their advice was this:
$1000; to install new emergency cables; and new rear calipers, as mine are apparently not even properly attached. Rear brake pads are just floating there, dangling. Also, one of my brake lines from the master cylinder has been replaced with a compression fitting, and this is bad, apparently.
They've given me bogus info before, so I don't know how much faith to put in this diagnosis.
I get that without the rear brakes working properly, that I'll lose some stopping. I also get that the 4 wheel disc setup, isn't amazing. Upgrading is out of the question right now.
I'm going to get it looked at, by Just Brakes, or another actual brake repair location; just wondering if I should expect the same result?
Just seems that if my front brakes do most of the stopping....that even with the rear ones shot, it shouldn't be this bad.
As a side note, and possibly important: When I got the car a month ago, it wasn't doing this.
I just am curious whether this is more crap that they're feeding me, or I'm really looking at $1000 for the calipers and cables, plus "around 3000 or so, to really fix the brakes"
Thanks.
#2
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Car: 91Z28
Engine: 5.7 ls1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
Why don't you do that yourself if not were you live i will go help you if you live close
#3
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Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
Amongst the many problems with my 86 TA, is the brakes.
I have 4 wheel disc, with new rotors/pads up front (about 150 miles on them), and the rears are in good shape as well.
Pedal needs to be 100% pushed in, to stop the car. If I let off even half an inch, the car starts rolling.
Took it into a mechanic, and their advice was this:
$1000; to install new emergency cables; and new rear calipers, as mine are apparently not even properly attached. Rear brake pads are just floating there, dangling. Also, one of my brake lines from the master cylinder has been replaced with a compression fitting, and this is bad, apparently.
They've given me bogus info before, so I don't know how much faith to put in this diagnosis.
I get that without the rear brakes working properly, that I'll lose some stopping. I also get that the 4 wheel disc setup, isn't amazing. Upgrading is out of the question right now.
I'm going to get it looked at, by Just Brakes, or another actual brake repair location; just wondering if I should expect the same result?
Just seems that if my front brakes do most of the stopping....that even with the rear ones shot, it shouldn't be this bad.
As a side note, and possibly important: When I got the car a month ago, it wasn't doing this.
I just am curious whether this is more crap that they're feeding me, or I'm really looking at $1000 for the calipers and cables, plus "around 3000 or so, to really fix the brakes"
Thanks.
I have 4 wheel disc, with new rotors/pads up front (about 150 miles on them), and the rears are in good shape as well.
Pedal needs to be 100% pushed in, to stop the car. If I let off even half an inch, the car starts rolling.
Took it into a mechanic, and their advice was this:
$1000; to install new emergency cables; and new rear calipers, as mine are apparently not even properly attached. Rear brake pads are just floating there, dangling. Also, one of my brake lines from the master cylinder has been replaced with a compression fitting, and this is bad, apparently.
They've given me bogus info before, so I don't know how much faith to put in this diagnosis.
I get that without the rear brakes working properly, that I'll lose some stopping. I also get that the 4 wheel disc setup, isn't amazing. Upgrading is out of the question right now.
I'm going to get it looked at, by Just Brakes, or another actual brake repair location; just wondering if I should expect the same result?
Just seems that if my front brakes do most of the stopping....that even with the rear ones shot, it shouldn't be this bad.
As a side note, and possibly important: When I got the car a month ago, it wasn't doing this.
I just am curious whether this is more crap that they're feeding me, or I'm really looking at $1000 for the calipers and cables, plus "around 3000 or so, to really fix the brakes"
Thanks.
Are they bled good?
It shouldn't cost $1000 for calipers and cables maybe about $100
#4
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Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Not enough
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
My initial thought after reading your post is if they "fed you bogus information" before, why in the world would you ever go back to them?
1000.00 would completely redo your rear brakes with high quality aftermarket upgrades. Remove and replace rear calipers, pads, rotors, hell even the lines themselves from the master cylender back with all new hard lines should only be just about half that for quality oem replacements. Ed Miller (I think thats his name) on here can set you up with a great rear brake upgrade and probably supply you with every think you need to remove the old and replace w/new for 3/4 of that 1000.00.
Also what does the "3000.00 or so to really fix the brakes" entail? I can't see anything short of a newer high end sports car brake job costing in that range. And that's counting huge rotors, multi piston calipers, stainless lines, master cylender replacement, abs computer and supporting hardware replacement. My advice is to leave that shop w/the quickness and don't look back ever.
1000.00 would completely redo your rear brakes with high quality aftermarket upgrades. Remove and replace rear calipers, pads, rotors, hell even the lines themselves from the master cylender back with all new hard lines should only be just about half that for quality oem replacements. Ed Miller (I think thats his name) on here can set you up with a great rear brake upgrade and probably supply you with every think you need to remove the old and replace w/new for 3/4 of that 1000.00.
Also what does the "3000.00 or so to really fix the brakes" entail? I can't see anything short of a newer high end sports car brake job costing in that range. And that's counting huge rotors, multi piston calipers, stainless lines, master cylender replacement, abs computer and supporting hardware replacement. My advice is to leave that shop w/the quickness and don't look back ever.
#5
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Car: 1986 Trans Am. She's a mess.
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
But thanks, everyone, I'll take it somewhere else and see if it really is as something as needing to bleed the brakes, or a master cylinder or something.
#6
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Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
Re-doing stock rear breaks yourself would cost under 100$, buy some tools and start learning.
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Car: 88 IROC-z "Deathtrap"
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: T-5 stage2 Clutch
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Std (Taking a hike)
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
Did you have break fluid?
#9
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Car: 1986 Trans Am. She's a mess.
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#10
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Car: TWO 1992 CAMAROS 1 Z28 AND 1 B4C
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#11
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Car: 1986 Trans Am. She's a mess.
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
#12
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Car: 1986 Trans Am. She's a mess.
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
Also, looked at the brake fluid. I have a lot of dark sediment at the bottom of the reservoir. Proper fluid level, though.
Wonder if just having the brakes flushed out would clear up the problem....
Wonder if just having the brakes flushed out would clear up the problem....
#13
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Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 tpi
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Re: Does this sound reasonable, from a mechanic?
New fluid will go a long way. When i got my gta, i needed to flush the fluid 5-6 times untill it desolved all of the old varnish so i could keep my lines clean.
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