LarryD

So last week I found I only have breaking to lockup on my front right wheel. Front brakes are drilled and slotted rotors and the rears are stock drum brakes. I plan to do brakes all around and looking for an economical bolt-on rear disc brake kit with e-brake capability to improve rear braking. A bolt-on economical kit suggestion? Also, is there something other than the drum brakes or problem caliper/rotor/pad on the front left that would cause the bad braking (valves?) on the three wheels that won't lock up?

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

are the brake hoses old? when they collapse that can prevent the fluid pressure from being relieved

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

second this

LarryD

I think I changed them in 2011. However, the problem is not that they aren't releasing pressure but just the opposite in that the brakes won't lock up when hard braking. But your point is taken in that they could be swelling under pressure I guess. I will know more about the rear brake linings in a few days. Thinking I may need to change to rear discs to get better braking in the rear so looking for an economical bolt-on option.

LarryD

Well, I took the brakes apart today. On the rear drums, it doesn't appear they were braking much if at all. The drums have some discoloration that looks like a bit of corrosion starting instead of being shiny from braking. The outsides are heavily rusted. I am guessing the adjusters have not been working. The left front caliper appeared to be siezed or at least somewhat stuck. The piston in it wouldn't push back. The one on the passenger side did push back.

Edwardgp

you know that there is a short hose in the back.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like time for a COMPLETE brake job. EVERY SINGLE PIECE. There's SO MUCH you just described that's MESSED UP with a capital EFF, that there's NO SENSE WHATSOEVER in half-a$$ing it.

Calipers
Rotors
Pads
Wheel cylinders
Shoes
Rubber hoses - ALL 3 (LF, RF, center rear)
Maybe master cyl
All new brake fluid

Whatever you do, DO NOT let the MC run dry while doing this, if you're not changing it!!!! Plug the lines so the fluid runs out less quickly and check the MC often to make sure it stays full.

LarryD

I just ordered front rotors, calipers and pads as well as rear drums, shoes, hardware kit, and wheel cylinders. Looking for hoses next. Should the proportioning valve be replaced also? If so, is there a new and improved version over the OEM? I was looking at speed bleeders but those are a bit spendy.

Thanks.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Probably not necessary.

Sorry I missed the drums & HW kits.

Just BE SURE not to let the MC run dry while doing this.

LarryD

I just ordered new both rear wheel cylinders, brake adjusters for both rear wheels, the rear center brake hose, and both front brake hoses. I will flush the master cylinder and all lines before putting on the new hoses.

LarryD

I have completed replacing everything except the steel lines. All four wheels now lock up in a severe stop. Car tracks straight with all 4 locked up.

Komet

Nice work, never compromise on safety. I don't like doing brake jobs but I have never regretted doing it.