Car AudioCar audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
hey guys for the longest time when i first came to this site i wondered the measurements of the boxes that people put in the well area. well i got one and now im posting up what i got. its mad out of 3/4 inch MDF so each side view measurement includes the thickness of 1 1/2 inch of mdf (front and rear panels 3/4 + 3/4 = 1 1/2)
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
__________________
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
yes but i wouldnt recommend it. laying the bag with the big end of the ttops on the subs is just bad policy in my opinion. but if you have sub covers i might do it.
but i just flip down the rear seat and put the big end of the ttops toward the front of the car and still use the mounts on the "hump". i have dual amps and there is plenty of room to put the ttops in there either direction. i will post pics tomorrow of it in the car.
I take out the rear plastic and lay it out on a peice of cardboard
make a rough trace
then make a rough cut,
then put the peice back in a slowly trim the cardboard away until it fits in perfect
then trace on to a peice of wood and cut it out that way it looks alot cleaner
are you talking about the cover to protect the subs from the ttops? if so why not just use the same dimensions i just gave and just use a thicker piece of mdf and route out enough to let the sub go in it?
Originally posted by Kevs87Z28 are you talking about the cover to protect the subs from the ttops? if so why not just use the same dimensions i just gave and just use a thicker piece of mdf and route out enough to let the sub go in it?
look at the pic i attached
see the top panel the subs are in
that perfectly matches the plastics and follows the curves so there is no gaps or squared off edges
I built one to the same specs a few years back, I was able to use my t-top bag and crank it up with 2 10's in the box because of the angle the bag straps down at with the t-tops in it. subs never hit the bag.
oh ok you have a vert. thats a diff story isnt it? or do they have the same "well"? i just posted what my box dimensions are and its a glass hatch version like most third gens are.
either way what i posted is undoubtably going to help a lot of people out so i am feeling pretty proud that i finally contributed useful data to the site haha.
Originally posted by Kevs87Z28 oh ok you have a vert. thats a diff story isnt it? or do they have the same "well"? i just posted what my box dimensions are and its a glass hatch version like most third gens are.
either way what i posted is undoubtably going to help a lot of people out so i am feeling pretty proud that i finally contributed useful data to the site haha.
vert well is the same
and your demensions on the lower part of the box apear right on
I'm just saying for the top panel instead of squaring it off I over size it slightly compared to the lower part of the box and form fit it to the plastics
I've owned 5 different 3rd gen's and built several boxs for
them
and when I charge $400 for a box people want something that looks pro
i paid 150 and it was built by a pro. i guess if you want it to fit exactly to the plastics its worth another 250? that doesnt seem right. i only paid 75 for a trunk box when i had a car with a trunk. i would only pay 400 if the box was fiberglass and painted.
materials are only like 40-50 for some mdf maybe another 20 if you dont have sealer or nails. the rest is time (to cut and nail and seal) mine is held together by some nails i think from an air nailer then the seams are sealed with caulk or something similar.
im sure your boxes are nice. but what justifies 400? i would pay maybe 250 for a really nice mdf box for the well (covered in some nice material with a logo or something) maybe 400 if it had an amp rack as well. but in my opinion i wouldnt pay 400 just to get rounded corners that no one with notice.
im not trying to be rude but your doesnt look any better or more professional then mine. but then again we arent packing logs as bass tubes like that one post. thanks for coming in and mentioning the rounded corners.
Originally posted by Kevs87Z28 i paid 150 and it was built by a pro. i guess if you want it to fit exactly to the plastics its worth another 250? that doesnt seem right. i only paid 75 for a trunk box when i had a car with a trunk. i would only pay 400 if the box was fiberglass and painted.
materials are only like 40-50 for some mdf maybe another 20 if you dont have sealer or nails. the rest is time (to cut and nail and seal) mine is held together by some nails i think from an air nailer then the seams are sealed with caulk or something similar.
im sure your boxes are nice. but what justifies 400? i would pay maybe 250 for a really nice mdf box for the well (covered in some nice material with a logo or something) maybe 400 if it had an amp rack as well. but in my opinion i wouldnt pay 400 just to get rounded corners that no one with notice.
im not trying to be rude but your doesnt look any better or more professional then mine. but then again we arent packing logs as bass tubes like that one post. thanks for coming in and mentioning the rounded corners.
$400 canadian
I went to Beam Riders(stereo shop up here in Canada)
they quoted $600 plus tax to do the same box,
part of that was for specing the box to the subs, I include that in my $400
I didn't pay the $600 I just built my own and started charging people $400
for a standard box(square/rectangle) to spec I charge $150
and thats only a few quick cuts on the table saw, 2 holes and some screws, plus covering, but i leave that part to the girlfriend
If you look at my box notice the lack of wiring
there is alot more than you think going on under that panel
yea this box is to spec for 2 12 inch jl audio w0 subs. my amps set on the "hump" not on the box. they are jensen 400 watt amps (2 of them, one per sub.)
the wiring for those come out the side so without a custom amp rack for them to slide in i cant hide the wires. its still a very clean install considering everything. i am begining to figure out how to hide the wires using some plans im drawing up for an amp rack though.
i didnt notice you from canada. i imagine up there things for third gens is even harder to find then here. i guess that justifies the price. but isnt 400 canadian like 13 dollars u.s.? haha just kidding
Originally posted by Kevs87Z28 yea this box is to spec for 2 12 inch jl audio w0 subs. my amps set on the "hump" not on the box. they are jensen 400 watt amps (2 of them, one per sub.)
the wiring for those come out the side so without a custom amp rack for them to slide in i cant hide the wires. its still a very clean install considering everything. i am begining to figure out how to hide the wires using some plans im drawing up for an amp rack though.
i didnt notice you from canada. i imagine up there things for third gens is even harder to find then here. i guess that justifies the price. but isnt 400 canadian like 13 dollars u.s.? haha just kidding
our dollar is catching up to yours
3rd gen parts are easy to find for me, I went to high school with the owner of Vancouverfbody.com
he wrecks Irocs and has bought almost every smashed Camaro/TA in B.C. for the past 3 years
i was about to ask the same thing, i've got 2 soundsplinter rl-p 12's that i want to give 1.5 cubic feet each. bigger the box the deeper it will sound right? and best to seperate the box in the middle?
im a little confused by your second picture there, the side profile. it sh ows the top of the bottom part of the box as being 9 1/8 inch across. but the bottom it shows as 7 5/8, although it looks to be the same width as the top part.
ok, apparently this box has about 2.28 cubic feet without factoring in the 8 inch slant, so probably around 2.4 altogether, without subs. which is enough for my rl-p's
Now, are these measurements also good for a 4th gen? I got one of those q-logic boxes where the subs are at an angle, and I would much rather it flat (looks better).
the box is sloped just like the well area. its packed in ther your not going to get any bigger unless its taller. i heard somewhere that poly-fil (stuff in pillows) will "trick" subs into thinking a smaller space is larger by doing something to the sound waves.
this box isnt good for a 4th gen as far as i know.
just in case anyone's plannin on runnin out to do this like myself, make sure you bring a buddy with with you to pick up the mdf board. They're heavy, real heavy, and they're a real bitch to get off the rack then onto a truck. Those 41x97 sheets are hard to work with. Learned this on the hard way.
haha yea they are! wait until you take the box in and out of the car by yourself a few times! getting it over the back is a pain. well i am short so maybe that wont be a problem for you tall strong types. keep us posted as i didnt build this box a pro did and we would appreciate first hand experience. have fun and good luck
well, I took 89vert's idea with the cardboard pattern piece, but I'm no carpenter, nor cabinet maker, so this was just a learn as I go sorta thing. It fits in nicely, and looks good, if you have the carpet still on your trim panels, it helps to cover up any gaps, which is on reason why mine looks so tight. I also used like a black carpet to cover the top with in an effort to match the rear hatch area. But the first thing you may notice is that it's more of a platform than I box........I got lazy. It weighs less and was less work. However I have yet to see how it sounds beacsue I have a shorted power cable, that needs replacing. When it is I'll crank it up, if it sounds like crap and everything's rattling around, I guess I'll have to pull it out and finish it.........I had to try the VroomVroom87Z28 way first
Pearl91GTA, these are two 10s, and I have quite a bit of mdf board left over, I'd be willing tory and whip one up for ya, for a modest price.......very modest.
i hav eno use for one of these s i already have two setups for my maro one for 2 10s and one for a single twelve but this info is just too damn sweet so im going to build one. thanks!
the first picture is of the back of the box, the flat piece. i got it professionally built, its sealed with screws, and white silicone type material inside.
Anybody know the total air space volume for the entire box i use this 2 build my box and it fits perfect i have 2 10"s and a 12" sub in it right now and it hits decent they are cheap pioneers and im upgrading to 2 Audiobahn 12" Flame Q's
Those boxes look great. I was wondering if you all figured in the amount of space the subwoofer will displace with it's frame and magnet. I'm not trying to be anal but I was wondering.
Question: will there be a significant disadvantage to using 1/2 inch MDF as opposed to 3/4"?
Has anybody got any pics of sub boxes or plates with the amp built in?
__________________ 89 FORMULA WS6 5.7, 700-R4 Auto Trans Am conversion, Dark Purple Hardtop, Ram Air II Hood w/ ram air box, Z28 Hi-Rise Spoiler, 18" Black Ice ROH R/T wheels, Hypertech Thermomaster Chip w/160 stat, Corvette C5/BAER hybrid front brakes, 10-BOLT 3.23 POSI Rear w/PBRs, Eiback Pro Kit 1.5" drop springs, KONI adjustable shocks and struts, TDS Wonderbar, 36mm front sway bar, Energy Suspension front end bushing kit, B&M Megashifter (modified), Modified Transmission, Ram Air with K&N Filter, Edelbrock High Flo ported base and runners, Polished 52mm TB, Holley AFPR @47psi, Holley 24# injectors, Billet distributor, 2 Core aluminum radiator, Modified Mass Air Sensor, MSD 6AL box, wires & blaster coil, Coolant bypass, Emissions Delete, A/C Delete pulley and 1LE heater box, SLP 1 3/4" stainless headers and Y pipe, High flow stainless bullet cat, Dynomax Exhaust, Lite Glow Silver Faced Guages, Custom Sound System, Black Racing seats, 4th gen console, More to come...
I built a box according to these specs today with my buddy and it doesn't fit all that well. The sides are a bit tight so I'm gonna try to take an inch off if I can. And it sits way to high ....about an inch or so above the top of the well. That won't work with my t-tops. I'm gonna have to try to cut 2 inches off the top so it sits low enough...hopefully it won't get too short for the sub to fit.
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
Sorry I don't have the cut measurements from mine. I modified the one pictured a bit though. Had to cut about 2 inches off the top to get it to sit where I like it in my trunk for the t-tops. I also put a little kick-in on the back about 14" wide, 2" deep and 2" tall to clear the power hatch motor better. I'll have pics up on my company website of the box in a week or two.
