b's90cam

How would one of these sound in our cars? I have two jl w3's right now and am kind of looking for more from my system. I was gonna just buy another 500/1 and run both of my 500/1's to the w7. Would this be a lot louder that the 12's? Would it kill my battery immediately?

Thanks,
Brandon

1meanGTA

honestly, i doubt it would be louder than the 12's unless you ported it. jl's is rather overpriced in my opinion. why not go with something cheaper? like half the price and louder?

Cam91z

iTrader: (1)

I have 2 12w6v2's and its rediculous. A 13.5w7 would def. be louder than 2 w3's.

Gummie

I duno. JL does have the perk of you know you're getting what you pay for and that's crazy quality. Anything goes wrong and they will fix it basically no questions asked. You're also getting very solid products that will serve their function perfectly. If w7's didn't cost so much I would happily run a set.

EDIT: in terms of sheir output all you have to do is displace a lot of air. Two things are involved here: cone area and excursion. How much air can the cone move back and fowarth? A w7 can get louder than two w3's, but it would require a decent amount of power and a good deal of excursion.

1meanGTA

w7's are nice and all, but if you want an authorized, waranteed one, you're looking at 600+ a piece. for that price, you could run 2 xxx 15's. one of those 15's will greatly outdisplace a 13w7, will arguably sound better, and indisputably get louder. it will also take about twice the power, and not be so picky about the box its in. the xxx is just one of a few woofers that are better and cheaper than the w7.

like gummie said, when you're trying to make some noise, air displacement is what makes it happen. i dont know the numbers, and am too tired and lazy to figure them up, but i doubt a single 13w7 could keep up with 2 12w3v2's, if they're anything like the old school 12w3's i had in 98-99. thats if you're talking sealed vs. sealed. the w7's really come alive ported, i'd bet they could hang with the 2 12's even if they were also ported. i haven't heard the w3v2, but i've heard a couple of w7 installs, and while they sounded nice, and got loud, i've heard better.

jimp2001

I just did 2 12W7 subs in an escalade ext, its so loud my heart skips a few beats when i crank it up. IMO 1 13.5W7 would slam like 2 15W3s. The clarity of the subwoofer is what you are paying for. It hits crystal clear notes. I've done quite a few W7 setups since theu have been on the market, and IMO the W7 is the best sub available.

1meanGTA

sure its nice, like i said, but it should cost 1/2 to 2/3 of what it does. i realize quality engineering is expensive, but other companies make better woofers that cost quite a bit less. basically all of them are online companies that your average car audio shop will either not know about, or not care to tell you about.

darkhorse91

I was reading somewhere that the design on the 13 w7 makes it comparable to an average 15 as far as displacement of air and still is somewhat more compact. I want 2 of those bad boys for my system once I can afford one.

b's90cam

it really depends on how much it is going to cost for the sub at this point. My friend had it in his chevelle but is ditching it because he is now dragging. If i do get it i will run 2 500/1 amps to it and make a ported box to fit it. We shall se in the next few days.

Thanks for the help guys, and if i do get it in, i will post it up.

lockchad

I used to rep for JL out of a marketing firm, and installed thier equipment as an installer. You wouldn't catch me dead buying a W-7 for what they go for. They are WAY overpriced for the performance they deliver. And as for them being equivalent to a 15" sub, B.S... They equate to a base model 15" standard/medium excursion sub. IT IS ALL IN THE BOX!!!
You have to build the right box to get the right sound. Personally my favorites in high excursion have been the I.D. Maxx or Earthquake Magma.
P.S. JL 13.5 W-7's cost about $108.00 to make.

darkhorse91

Umm... you just re-enforced my sayin that it can be compared to a 15 after you called it bs wtf?

lockchad

sorry.
Insert: any real 15" speaker worth installing, or building an enclosure for..

Gummie

He said that it can keep up with a low excursion 15, not a 15 with compariable stroke.

1991 RS/SS

The w7 is a great driver due to its ability to play very low frequencies extremely loud. IMO, a w7 is the one of the best street beating subs out, right along with the Eclipse Titanium.
Give either one of these plenty of power from a QUALITY amp and a well designed, well constructed ported enclosure and you will soon forget how much you spent due to the value of the product.

1meanGTA

you want to talk low end extension?

i present exhibit A.

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/vide...que/hd12.1.wmv

thats a 25 hz tone he's playing at the beginning with the bill in the window. this is one, yes ONE, audioque HD 12 that costs almost exactly half what an authorized 12w7. handles about 1500w rms. they're basically a rebadged digital designs woofer, in between the 3500 and 9500 series. i'm considering a pair of the 15's in a big sealed box to replace my rl-p's.

opinions on whether 2 of those 15's would be as loud as the single 13w7 that cost the same as both?

1meanGTA

thought i should point something out. the excursion and all around meaness of a woofer is not determined by the width of the surround. using wider surrounds decreases the cone area. jl chose to develop a unique mounting system behind the surround to get around this and use a big wide, mean looking surround (which does look cool) and still have the cone area. most companies get around this by using taller surrounds, rather than wider.

b's90cam

Well, it's 700 in box. I think i'll pass on it but it's up or grabs if anyone wnats it.

1meanGTA

you've made a wise decision. what are you looking at now?

lockchad

Cool vid, as soon as i saw the downward angle shot on the sub i said D.D. They're really good subs but need a small fission reactor to run them. That or a harris DQ.
I like displacement by excursion. I built a ranger ex cab for a buddy , 6hx2 15"'s, 3 Audio art 100hc's. Did 151db @ 32hz on an A.C. meter. Wanna talk about buckling ****? Wow.....
I'm still one of those guys that rates by #'s not feel. Show your DB or RTA. Then i know you're loud :-) I actually had 2 world records at one time. Port wars unlimited: 176.4 with 1 15" sub, and USAC outlaw: 151-300w class 161db.
As for choices, I normally look for subs that give the most displacement for the least rms. Used to love the old redline stuff, and crunch fat boys.

1meanGTA

i could care less how loud i am on the mic, i listen to music in my car, not 45 hz test tones. even if i was competing, i'd get killed by guys with much better vehicles for getting loud in. i've never competed, other than friendly get togethers at local shops, and not with this system. i'd guess my rl-p's are doing around 140-142, but they're sealed 12's designed for sound quality.

i would much rather have a system that jumps your vision a half inch, makes you have to fight for air to breathe, and kills all sorts of brain cells in my daily driver than one that farts a certain frequency at 155 db, and sounds like *** when you play beats with quick transients.

161 with under 300 watts is freakin insane, even when you take into account that was back in the day and i'm sure you used a cheater amp that actually did more like 1500-2kw. must have been a very well designed box. more details on that setup?

b's90cam

i might be looking at w6's

lockchad

Same setup as the ranger, actually same equipment. 6 Hx2 15" fosgates, 3 audio art 100hc's, 6 yellow tops, clarion pro audio cdp, audio controll 3.1, homemade line driver/distribution.

This was all in a 95 2 door blazer. The setup was nasty! I had to ride around with the owner at spring break nat'ls in daytona all day. Needless to say, it was a bad night. It wasn't a one note wonder either, it actually sounded good. At 1/4 volume your nose flaps would close on themselves, couldn't see straight, and your back would actually start to tingle as though you just sat in a hot tub with your back against the jets for an hour. At half volume you could forget about breathing, at all, your throat would close as you tried to take a breath. If you turned it to full volume you had about 30 seconds before you would start to gray out.

The box was 2 layers of 1" mdf divided into 3 separate chambers vertically. It was a wall right behind the drivers seat with just enough room to recline semi-comfortably for road trips to competitions. The guy we built it for was 6'2" 265 lbs, built like a body builder and he wanted room. Except for the wall everything was pretty much stock looking. I built it in conjuction with Sound Crafters in daytona bch fl. The same guy that owns IASCA.

In usac outlaw they let you put the mic where you want to, within reason. We used to crack the drivers door and put it under the passengers dash. We actually metered 172db in the area behind the passengers seat but they wouldn't let us mic it there, "might cause damage to the mic", they said. It was a freak. Our closest competitors tried to steal the design and did it pretty good. They were 3db off at thier closest attempt though.

Don't get me wrong, i like good sound, I have competed in sound quality in iasca for years. Its just, to me, anything over 147db is just abnoxious, and there is no way to match it with other components without losing all staging. I have seen setups in our cars achieve almost flat RTA,s and do well over 155db. The flat RTA is more impressive to me than the DB levels. With our cars so little is needed to get SO much. It just takes the right skill to get it.
My setup i'm working on now is 1 set of 6.5 kicker resolution components in a-periodic kick panels. 1 set of 6" 8ohm midbass drivers on thier own dedicated crossover network, rear ported tubular exhaust fiberglass enclosures on the door panels. And a single 12" excelon xw1202dvc in a fiberglass enclosure/amp-rack/gun safe. I'll explain if you wanna hear it.
I hope to do MAX 145db. Its all for me no-one else so i don't need louder.