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8 inch subwoofer's... L7's

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Old 09-14-2006, 10:10 PM
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8 inch subwoofer's... L7's

I have a layout I made in CAD of a box that would be made from fiberglass with my battery also in my trunk. Im looking for bass but not enough to rattle my brain loose, But i also want to be able to hear it and feel the bass. I know the bigger the sub the less "popping bass" but more of the "rumbling" bass is there. I want a nice even mix between both but more of the "popping Bass" Basically i want a nice clean rumble. Space is tight with the box two subs an amp and the battery so i was thinking of going with two 8 inch L7's. Will this give me a nice rumble or not enough bass?? If i step it up to the 10inch L7's i will not be able to have the battery back there. So do you guys think with the 8 inch L'7s in a sealed box with roughly 400 RMS going to each sub will give enough bass and rumble? ORRR forget the battery and go with the 10 inch or 12 inch L7's?

Thanks Alot Guys,
Old 09-15-2006, 01:00 AM
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You get two things from a larger sub. First, it will play lower. Second, it will generally be more efficient (ie it will take less power to make the same amount of noise). Larger subs also generally require larger boxes but this isn’t always the case.

I’ve got no idea what you mean by “popping bass”. A smaller sub generally won’t be able to play as low as a larger sub but by no means should it ever make any kind of popping sound. If you hear any sound like that it’s either static in the signal (unlikely) or the sub(s) bottoming out (very very very bad for the speaker).

Also, nice rumble vs not enough bass? I’m guessing you want the car to shake some, in which case you want your system to be able to play low. The 8” L7 isn’t the best choice for that. Sure, it’s made to get loud but it’s more of a SPL loud. SPL tests are generally done 40-70 Hz, well above the 30 Hz and below rule of thumb for what you feel. It will also require a fairly large box for two of them (2ish cubes), which will probably be pretty hard to pull off given your space limitations.

I question your choice of L7’s in general. L7’s are prone to failure (search the forum and you will find some broken ones), they’re pretty expensive ($250), and they’re not musical at all so unless you listen to mainly rap I would suggest against them. There are much better sounding, efficient subs out there in that price range.
Old 09-15-2006, 08:46 PM
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Im not talking about the popping of the bottom oh a sub. I mean that a smaller sub will be able to hit more times then a larger sub like a 8 inch will be able to move faster then a 15 inch but will not play as loud.

So what are some subs you recomend?

Thanks,
Old 09-16-2006, 12:54 AM
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A big sub can be just as tight and punchy as a small sub. A properly designed 18 will be able to move just as fast as an 8. Properly designed being the key words.

Here are some companies I reccomend: RE Audio, Diamond Audio (think d6/d9), Elemental Designs, Dayton Loudspeaker (cheapest speaker in the group and one of the best sounding), Ascendant Audio, TC Sounds (the buildhouse for quite a few major companies), etc.
Old 09-17-2006, 02:04 AM
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Im thinking about going with two 8 inch TC sound subs. The tc-1000 8inch...

You think this will be a good choice and provide enough bass?

Also one more question are these subs really that good? I have never heard of them and they are only 150 a peice? Is it a underground company or just a new company that just hit the market, Also will a DVC sound ANY different then a SVC sub??

Thanks for all your help,

Last edited by L.I.N.Y.92CAMARO; 09-17-2006 at 02:27 AM.
Old 09-17-2006, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by L.I.N.Y.92CAMARO
Im thinking about going with two 8 inch TC sound subs. The tc-1000 8inch...

You think this will be a good choice and provide enough bass?

Also one more question are these subs really that good? I have never heard of them and they are only 150 a peice? Is it a underground company or just a new company that just hit the market, Also will a DVC sound ANY different then a SVC sub??

Thanks for all your help,
They're a build house for quite a few companies. Eclipse has stuff made there as does Sound Splinter. Elemental Designs had their old a and o series drivers made there. I'm running two 10a.22s (10" w/ two 2 ohm coils) that were made by TC Sound and I couldn't be happier with the way they sound.

It's almost always cheaper to buy from the source. TC Sounds also doesn't spend any money advertising and the price reflects that.

In terms of sound, the coils resistance (or the number of coils) will not impact sound however they will impact how you can wire them to an amp.
Old 11-10-2006, 01:18 PM
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i listened to 3-8" L7's at a shop a couple weeks ago. with 900 rms running to them they hit harder than 2-12" JL's. they hit extremely fast and shook the sound room like no other. I'd go with the 8's just so people will be blown away cuz nobody expects 2-8's to sound that good.
Old 11-10-2006, 04:16 PM
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The L7 is not prone to have more failure then any other woofer...broken cone, blown is due to clipping or over powering, or pushing past mechanical limits, simply put.

For small sealed applciations, and same power handling, look at the Kicker CVX 10" in a 1.00/1.25 sealed.
Old 11-11-2006, 05:39 AM
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The simple math is that 2 12" have the same cone space as 5 8" subs. So I am a little confuse as to how 3 8" can be louder since they cannot match the cone space of 2 12" unless the 12" did not have enough power or air space in the box.
Old 11-12-2006, 06:03 PM
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are you sure your math is correct?
Old 11-13-2006, 02:22 AM
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For everyone here is how the math works on speaker size. The number have been rounded up.

(4) 8" = (2.5) 10" = (1.5) 12" = (1) 15"

(5) 8" = (2) 12"

(8) 8" = (5) 10" = (2) 15"
Old 11-13-2006, 07:20 AM
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Cone area is not what you need to be concerned with when making these kinds of comparison, it's volume of air that the drivers can move. To figure that out, you need to take the driver's x-max into account. Also keep in mind, that at best, this calculation will give you a very ROUGH estimate and can not be considered accurate.
Old 11-13-2006, 08:12 AM
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actually, using the manufactures corrected Sd is the accurate way to measure cone area.

I agree Jim, Xmax x sd unless your going ported, then it will change to a point. Then sometimes the smaller Xmax driver, could yeild more output. So each varies, per install.
Old 11-13-2006, 09:43 AM
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If you read above I was originally responding to how all things being equal 3 8" could sound louder than 2 12". You are right in saying that there are other considerations. There are many factors to take into account (sealed, ported, inverted). But if you compare apples to apples (same make, type of speaker, power handling) then the comparison is valid and accurate. While you can make a small speaker sound larger than it is (baffle), there comes a point where there is no subsitute for cone space.
Old 11-13-2006, 09:50 AM
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I agree, and also very aware. But at times, in the right install one 12" can be louder then two 12's....install.
Old 11-13-2006, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Polecat
actually, using the manufactures corrected Sd is the accurate way to measure cone area.

I agree Jim, Xmax x sd unless your going ported, then it will change to a point. Then sometimes the smaller Xmax driver, could yeild more output. So each varies, per install.
I guess I wasn't clear in my attempt to illustrate that in addition to area, that xmax is also necessary to consider, but your post cleared it up very nicely.

Nice to see you on the forum again. How's life down there in Oklahoma?
Old 11-13-2006, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim85IROC
I guess I wasn't clear in my attempt to illustrate that in addition to area, that xmax is also necessary to consider, but your post cleared it up very nicely.

Nice to see you on the forum again. How's life down there in Oklahoma?
thanks dude, getting cold actually, finally...got my son a car finally, so have to browse here to learn again...LOL...good to see ya still around
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