I've been meaning to post these for some time. I've posted the finished product in various threads, but neglected to show some of the progress. I replaced my old sub box which housed 2 JL 10W6 woofers and had installed a single Memphis 15-M3MOJO12 12" woofer capable of handling 2000 watts (1000 continuous). I also relocated my amp from the cargo deck behind the seat to the well with the sub. My old setup New woofer Beginnings of the box with the woofer test fitted.

More...

Fiberglassing the bottom half.


Woofer ready for install


Ready to relocate the amp, crossovers will be located under the amp


System complete

To finish up, I had a cover made from expanded metal and covered with acoustic carpet to protect the amp and sub from any cargo.

The underside of the cover


Finished product

That looks super clean and stelth. Great job.

very nice install very clean.. but you don't need a capacitor

I know he doesn't need one, but it all came together so perfectly. It's gatta stay there now.

You have renewed my interest in getting a sub.

Thanks, yeah I know I don't need the cap, but I got it when I didn't know any better and didn't see a reason to leave it out when relocating the amp. It's almost useless since I use a second battery to power the system.

Here...

yeah we all do stuff when we dont know any better, then realize when we do, that it wasnt a geat idea, but never the less the setup is awesome, and having that second batt in the side there is awesome

Okay, you've made me want a big sub. Do you have a file with the plans for cutting the board? Possible dimensions on the sub section? Is the amp sitting on foam, or something?

I've decided that I pretty much want to emulate this setup, minus the cap and the spare battery.

There were no real "plans" for the box, pretty much measure and cut as you go while ensuring the recommended cubic ft volume for the sub. My installer did use as a guideline of sorts, the plans for a well enclosure up in the sticky section of the forum, only he used fiberglass for the bottom half.

This one took him a good week or so to build (thankfully I have another car) along with other jobs at the shop. The size of the sub (it weighs in at 36 lbs!!) and the dimensions of the amp added a degree of difficulty. The plastic trim over the spare tire had to be trimmed off on the bottom to allow wiring to go through. Also a possible mistake in measurement doesn't allow the enclosure to be removed without first removing the pull-down motor (theft deterrent??).

The amp itself is mounted so the top sits flush with the sub surround, then a piece of hardboard (like pegboard without the holes) with the openings cut out was used to create the "flush" mount appearance. No foam, there is a lot of free air space under the hardboard. In effect, the carpet covered hardboard is just a facade to make it look pretty.

can you still access the spare tire?

Yes I can still access the spare tire, but it's a tight fit with some of the wires. I may take it out entirely and let my roadside assistance coverage take care of any difficulties in that area.

How much did the boxing project run? With the glass work I can imagine a bit more than a normal MDF enclosure.

I can't say how much for sure since I bought the woofer at the same time, then add woofer install, amp install (relocation),etc. Woofer was close to $450 which was almost half of the total price. Best guess is between $350 and $400 for the enclosure.

Woofer specs?

M3MOJO
The baddest bass. Originally designed for SPL competition,
the Mojo sub has more than proven itself in the lanes. Couple it with one of our Mojo amps and you can create enough sound pressure to blow the gasket out of a windshield. If you've got Mojo, everyone will know it.

That's awsome! Love the stealth look!

I like the install. Looks really clean!

yah man that looks great, does it rattle or anything or does it sound good and tight?

beautiful setup man, i love how clean it looks, and how little cargo space it takes up.

Im planning to do something similair with a 10" kicker L7

Very little rattles, if any. The car was dynamatted prior to this install, the license plate frame also got a little dynamat treatment.

hey thats a sweet setup but i was wondering how u made the system run off a seprate battery and still have that battery charged

I used a diode isolator up front. The alternator charge wire connects to the isolator, as do both batteries. The alternator will charge each battery as needed and the isolator keeps eah battery separate from each other.

thanks alot that pic really helps

What amp is that? Is it a six channel amp?

It's an older Memphis Belle 5 channel amp. Memphis now calls it the Hybrid, it's a Class D amp for the sub channel and a Class AB amp for the other 4 channels.

http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/produ...***-amplifier/

Hey where did you buy the expanded metal from?

I believe my installer acquired it from a welding supply shop, where they have various gauges of sheet stock. I wanted to call it perforated metal, but expanded is correct because it's made by cutting slits in the metal, then pulling the metal to "expand" the slits into the diamond shaped holes.

Great, I'll check there, I wish I could find something like that in aluminum.

Thanks again

Al,

I'm looking at making smaller box to fit a single 12", kind of like yours that isn't flush with the gas tank hump. I see you mentioned this box cannot be removed intact, at least without removing the hatch motor. So how did you get the box in? Did you have to remove the hatch motor to get the box in?

Thanks

If memory serves, the fiberglass was laid in the bottom to get the form, then the framework support was constructed. After assembling the frame and fiberlass, the assembly wouldn't drop into the well without removing the pulldoen motor. I'm sure a few well placed cuts around the motor could remedy the situation, but it works good and I can still remove the trim to access the tail lights.

sick build man, giving me ideas.

not exactly the most custom thing in the world but it does a good job

I wanted to mount my amps there too but....isnt the gas tank right under there?

Just a note on isolators. There is a voltage drop across them which can result in undercharging of your batteries. An internally regulated alternator won't be able to detect the state of charge of your batteries. A better alternative to an isolator is an automatic charging relay (ACR) like this one from Blue Sea systems.

http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/387

I had a problem with dual battery banks (starting/house loads) on my boat. I was using an isolator. After killing two sets of batteries from chronic undercharging I rewired the entire boat and put in the ACR. No more problem.

Good thread. Al Hasse, good job on your setup.


Jay

Thanks for the info. Yes, there is a voltage drop across a diode isolator, just the way they work. I've also been looking into another concept when and if I ever run into problems. Hellroaring Technologies makes a nice isolator/combiner for this type of application, among others.

http://www.hellroaring.com/audio.php

This setup has been going strong for about 3 different sound systems I've had in the car over the last 8-10 years.

just wanted to say nice job to the OP. The cover/protector is a great idea and keeps the goodies out of sight from those prying eyes....

I THOUGHT YOU INSTALLED THAT AL HASSE, ANYONE CAN PAY SOMEBODY.... IT DOES LOOK GREAT.

Can you still blare your music with the preforated metal cover down? or does it get all distorted?

I can. The cover is acousically transparent, like any speaker grille. Even if it wasn't, it wouldn't matter much with bass frequencies, they'll penetrate almost anything.

Sorry to resurect this from the past but this is the cleanest box / stereo set up ive ever seen in a 3rd gen. WOW is all I can say

NICE BUILD.

Cool, here's mine...well, in mock up anyhow.

(after jizzing my pants)....

i love that setup i wish there was some dimensions for the box i have two p2s i want to put in like that.

Yea that def. is a rediculously clean install!

so has anyone had any issues with the gas tank or anything when mounting amps or subs on the flat deck area? will sheet metal screws be enough or is there a need for a nut bolt washer type set up

the gas tank is under the hump area not under the well area. if youre mouting anything on top of the hump, be sure to use screws just long enough to go through what youre mounting and just barely through the sheet metal. use long *** screws and you risk putting a screw in the tank...

Why not use an amp rack.