chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I was just wondering, what you guys do to get an awesome sounding system without using the well area or any part of the back at all? Since sometimes people need all of that space for things, what would you do? What if you want a sub and an amp?

novafirebirdguy

I think there is a company that makes 6x9 free-air subs that you can put in the sail panels. Although, if you did I don't know where you'd put the regular speakers. Not really much room up front to put stuff.

87 WHITE GTA

Kick panels up front.....amd If u really dont wanna use the well then slap some subs on the sails.....

8t2 z-chev

if you are good at fabrication,you might be able to make
a sub enclosure to fit in the RH spare tire well,8 or 10"
or you could possibly make one to fit in the LH lockbox,
but would have to take the plastic paneling off in order
to get the box in there.Some fairly small subs can rock
pretty good if they are installed in a properly sized
enclosure-in my saab i use an 8",made in denmark
"dynaudio"sub-just pounds for the size.

camaronewbie

I don't know what the "thump" factor would be, but I do read that connecting a 4 channel amp to some good power-handling speakers in the rear sails (6x9) and in the dash (4x6 although do a search there's a way to mod in some 5.25 there) is supposed to sound awesome. I have a 10" with amp in the rear, but this year I'm planning a 4 channel sub and new speakers for the cabin as well.

jimcairns

I have 2 12's in the rear well, works great.
A long time ago I saw 12's mounted on a baffle like the stock well cover that used the well, so it might not work great.
I also remember a guy fabricating a box that fit in the lower portion of the well. YOu wouldn't keep all of the storage, but you would get some. I suppose you could fab something that would fit in the storage compartment on the left or in the spare tire well.
Additionally, there are a number of thin subs that you might be able to incorporate into the door panels. Put the subs as close to the hinges as possible, the door hinges already have enough to hold, don't add leverage of these as well. I think you could get a tweeter and 5 1/4" in the kicks and a thin 8 in the door. If I ever get mine finished, that is what I may do. You may want to consider replacing the hinge bushings before finishing this.

You could use one of the newer small amps, such as the JL Audio or Alpine in the side storage and keep your entire well clear.

TPImoneypit

iTrader: (5)

Also, some of our cars came with a "performance sound" package that had a built-in amp and a factory sub-like speaker. There were 2 speakers mounted in each sail panel. That being said, it is possible to mount two speakers here. If you could find the right size subs and the right size regular speakers to fit this area, you could have both traditional speakers and subs in the same spot. Mounting the amp though, you're on your own there.

92purplehaze

iTrader: (8)

I have something like this but with an 8" sub on the opposite side. The one I have came out of a cherokee and it fits perfect in the spare tire well. It bumps really good too http://www.leeparts.com/chrysler_300...oofer_kit.html

U.S.Marine09

idk if your looking to use the whole trunk or just the well area but you could definantly get a couple of shallow mounts or a couple of the all in one flat truck subs and put them right on the deck right behing the rear seat

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

Quality speakers and deadened sail panels, then quality front speakers and a 4 channel amp hidden in the spare tire well or under the lock box running a high low pass (300hz or so) to the rear and a moderate high pass (150hz) to the fronts. You can also do door build outs (what I did) and mount speakers in the front doors. Good power and a nice crossover will clean stuff up a lot and getting the full range out of the sail panels improves the imaging a ton.

slow305rs

iTrader: (1)

You best options would be to have kick panels up front
(like q-forms) and for the rear either subs in the sail panels or in the bottom of the wheel well.

Good idea to install some dampener behind the sub if you go with the sail panel area.

Sail panel subs

Bottom of wheel well.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...k/DSCN2434.jpg

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

Its really hard to be the cargo area for sub placement. One single sub in the bottom section of the well still allows quite a bit of usable space back there while also putting out some good bass. I have toyed around with removing the rear speakers and building some fiberglass enclosures to fit a couple 8" subs, but my glassing skills are still a bit lacking. TangBand makes some interesting 6 1/2" subs that seem to be putting out some decent sound for little money; may give those a shot in place of the 6x9s as well. We'll see what spring brings

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

All great system ideas here guys. I would want to only put speakers in the stock locations if I can. What could I do that way?

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

These are the "subs" I was looking at putting in place of the 6x9's:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-832

If you still have the foam inserts inside the b-pillars, you may be able to beef them up a bit with some fiberglass and make some sort of enclosure to get a bit more bang for your buck out of these things

as for the front location, some people have been able to creatively fit 5 1/4" speakers, but you'll have a decent challenge ahead of you.

Then grab yourself a small 4-channel amplifier and hide is somewhere in the hatch (driver's side storage compartment's pretty good if you don't have any leaks).

So much for thinking out loud, now you got me planning my setup.....

jimcairns

JL Audio makes some 6" subwoofers, you could try them in the rear side panels. You might be able to get a 4" coax back there as well, I have a 6 1/2" woofer and a tweeter on a panel I made bolted in place of the stock 6 by 9. If you are very concerned about stock and want more, you could build a box that fit in the bottom of the well and cover it with carpet that matches the original. Depending on how mutch depth you are willing to give up, you could get a 10" back there. It might even make it easier to get stuff from the bottom. There are several companies that make shallow mount subs, you could get it all done in 5-6 inches of height.

If you are going to use a small sub, consider an amp with a bass boost or an equalizer. a 6" woofer just can't go loud all the way down without some help. Also, if you put a sub in the side panel, you will need to damp the sheet metal heavily and/or build a good box. If you ear vibrating metal when you turn it up, your n ot done yet.

DeathMetalTony

I got too JL audio 12 inch subs in the back and have plenty of cargo room as well.

Tony.

jimcairns

How did you mount your 12's? Mine take up the whole well, although my amps are mounted there as well.

U.S.Marine09

idk if this helps but i think this will be a pretty good setup http://www.parts-express.com/project...oject=Firebird its for a fourth gen but maybe a little modifications and itll be perfect for you

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

My 1987 Trans Am has the UQ7 "Performance Sound" system.

JaxJags

Found this:


http://www.mobileaudioguy.com/photos...g2_itemId=1183


Looks pretty good. Wish he posted the dimensions of his box though. I would love to try it.

DeathMetalTony

Now thats not that bad of an idea where to put a sub.

Tony.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I'm getting some good ideas here guys!

So basically what would I need for a good system? speakers, tweeters, woofers, subwoofers? Anything else?

toxik IROC

iTrader: (12)

on my other comp i have some better pics of the sub in the storage box, ill post em up when i get home , but if you round off the edges and shape it abit to the panle lines it would look very good. but i would try and find a way to make it abit more stealth though.

JaxJags

Head unit and amp.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

You should start off by leaving the stock speakers (assuming they are in decent shape) and purchasing a good 4 channel amp and a set of add on tweeters, or replacing the 4X6's honestly I would go with whichever route is cheaper (I have had good luck with cheap Lanzar silk dome's btw). Run 2 channels of the amp to your 6X9's in the panel low passed, and 2 channels to the front 4X6's and tweeters high passed. My Blazer sports bone stock 4X6's and 6X9's with the Lanzar tweeters bolted to the 4X6 grilles. From here you will have a solid foundation and can decide if you want to upgrade the speakers, add a sub, etc. I currently have a Kenwood deck in the Blazer that gives me high pass for the front and rear, it sounds really nice, better so than my friends 4 door Blazer with aftermarket coaxials all around (we both have subs with dedicated amps).

The Project

iTrader: (6)

First thing you need to do is figure out a budget and timeframe.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Personally I'd just replace all the factory speakers and the head unit. (Assuming the head unit is the original one.) Other than that, I'm not planning on doing much to either of my cars. I don't listen to the radio often and I don't need ear splitting, car rattling sound.

jimcairns

I agree. Without a budget you will spend far more than you should and it won't sound as good as the funds invested.

What to do first depends on what you have. Assuming everything is original and working, I would start with the front speakers, if you have a CD player. If not, start with the head unit. Polk, and others, make some 4x6 plates that are easy to install. They typically only handle about 40 watts, so you don't need a huge amp.

Next I would do the amp, followed by the rear speakers. If you do the rear speakers first, the sound will be better, but it won't be loud enough. If you haven't already done the head unit, do it next.

Next it is time for the subs. If you bought a 4 channel you can use its extra channels until you get another amp (and either run the front and rear of the same channels or run one off the deck again. If you can afford it, you would be better off to leave the original 4 channel on the high end, and buy a new, bigger amp for the sub(s).

From there, you have several choices. Damping, equalization, other processors, caps, toys (fancy displays, video, etc.). You could try to bring bass forward by either going into the kick panels or the doors. You don't want to add a lot of weight to the doors though.

WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T BUY ANYTHING PLANNING TO REPLACE IT. PERIOD. I you do, you will pay a lot more than you should and you will have equipment that doesn't sound as good as what you paid. Always work on the weakest link in the system. Wait and buy the good stuff, whatever that is for you.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Honestly a good pair of 6x9's and some new front speakers should sound pretty decent. I know it's not "hardcore" awesome like many people are looking for, but honestly it works for me. I'm more about the sound of the car's engine than anything.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I was able to find the rear sail panel plastic enclosures that the performance sound equipped third gens came with. It holds 2 speakers in each one. A 4x6 and what looks like a 4 or 5 inch round. I had the subs in the rear well area and am now trying to get away from that set up for my T top space back. I may do what the above pic shows with the single sub where the lock box is located, and using a 4 channel amp for the speakers and a 2 channel for the sub, I'm hoping the system will sound good. Not worried about window shattering base, just something equivalent to my 08 mustang GT's system. Should work out good.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

One of my cars has the same sound system. It does have the 4x6 and the round speaker. Unfortunately the rounds are the factory originals and one side is blown. So I'm going to have to replace those.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

"I was able to find the rear sail panel plastic enclosures that the performance sound equipped third gens came with. It holds 2 speakers in each one. A 4x6 and what looks like a 4 or 5 inch round."

I have a set of these laying around as well, pulled them out of an 85 Z28. I believe they're ported enclosures for the 5's, I'll have to look.

Spikey_Kiwi

just pulled a set from my 86 ta and yes they are ported

Slash

tbh i don't see the need in subwoofers at all. I don't give a crap about thumps and loud booms -_-. I'd rather just be able to hear the music clearly and hear the guitar.

Spikey_Kiwi

well im not one for having my eardrums blown either but i do like a little more than you get from just having 4 mid/high range speakers. sticking a small sub in to the storage hatch seems a nice solution for me.
Anything too lairy and you cant hear the engine and thats 1/2 the fun of an f-body

Slash

hell yeh :P

BatSipJet

Took one day and $20 in 3/4" MDF

It fits a 10"

camaronewbie

Not trying to be a jerk - but what happens now when you get a flat?

I haven't had a flat in like 20 years, but I always figured it was because I always had a spare. The minute I leave the spare at home, THAT'S when it'll happen!

The_Wraith

I agree. Those guys driving around with their boom boom bass drowning with interior rattle are just annoying what purpose does it serve to have that much bass?

I have two pioneer 5.25s in the front and 6x9 Audiobauhn in the rear perfectly loud and clear for the music I listen to.

Pug89

if a system is done right it will sound good no matter what music you listen two. i listen to all sorts of music from rock to rap to oldies to soul and if you do it right you can hear everything clear including bass it is just how much time and money are you willing to spend. Some people put all the money in speed some in sound.

ATX-Iroc

Have you ever been in one of those cars. I do agree that any car that rattles is ridiculous but that bass just feels great its like a massage, makes you feel tingly.

The_Wraith

Yeah a few , it was annoying if anything. But I didn't like it. I like loud , crisp and clear and a proper blend of everything. Not bass kills all.

Oh and if I want a Massage it wont be while im driving

windowrattler

iTrader: (3)

Really a proper sub set up adds life and realism to music. The foundation of music is the drum and bass line. You never seem to get the depth out of coaxial door speakers. I've built plenty of "competition" bass vehicles and I've built some pretty sweet street systems also and nothing annoys me worse than a vehicle with all bass and you can't hear the rest.

The big key to a proper premium sound system is install. Specific to the 3rd gen body style I come across these couple problems.

1. The rear speakers are way too close to your head. Thus ruining the "stage" of the music. As the driver I feel like Metallica is rocking out in my back driver seat.

2. The rear sail panels need to be deadened for proper bass response. I'd use sound material inside the panel and I'd make a baffle for the speaker to mount into. Don't just use the factory screw holes.

3. The dash speakers are tiny and reflect horribly off the windshield. Aiming tweeters at glass that close is never a good idea for getting a nice stereo image.

4. Speakers in the dash are bad for imaging. Not sure on exact measurements but the from the drivers seat the left speaker is at least half the distance from the passenger speaker.

Alright now for solutions. What would I do for a no sub system?

1. Buy sound deadening material. Mat the entire car and it'll be well worth it.

2. Buy a 4 channel amp. The power in the in dash radios are puny and weak. I amp all my speakers with out board amps it is well worth the money spent.

3. Move the front speakers to the kick panel and use separate woofer/tweet component set. Q-logic kicks are decent but are a little flimsy. Stiffen/deaden them from the back side for best performance.

4. Rear full range speakers shouldn't be necessary. A few others posted about 6 x 9 subs from parts express. They would be the easiest for a drop in solution. Just remember though to build a baffle (mounting) board for them otherwise I doubt they would sound good. If you want you could use full range coax speakers or another set up components.

5. Take your time and do it right once and you should be pretty happy with results. I'll be doing a similar set up but with subs in the back also so stay tuned in the coming months it should be a fun build.

And remember the key.....install install install

BatSipJet

I had an 87 Iroc in highschool and had to use the spare, it worked great, but this car, I now have 17" rims and the sizes are different from the spare and now I have free towing, so I can use that area

As for bass, no one can hear my music unless you are in the car. I dynamated the rear area of the car and I can stand over the rear hatch at night and not hear the music. When I open the door its another story. I love music and play it for me, not anyone else.

As for 3rd gen rattling, this is my third and it rattles the least, yes the least, it does rattlel, but guess what, I tighten everything down once every couple months. If your car doesn't rattle thats great, I am happy for you

Dynamat works both ways, keeps road noise out and music in