Best 2x12 plate setup?
10-22-2001, 02:59 PM
#1
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Best 2x12 plate setup?
Plates suck.
lol.... but I got one free. A friend of mine happened to have a plate, for a thirdgen, with 2 MTX 12s on it. He gave it to me for free. It's a little rough, it needs cleaning, and I don't know if the subs on it are any good. They look rather old. They are 2 MTX PY-12s, rated at 100w each. The plate also contains 2 pods on each side, each housing a midrange and a tweeter. I had planned to go with a tube setup eventually, but this thing is free, I'd be a fool not to use it. Right now all I have is a Pioneer DEH-P7000 deck powering 2 Polk 4x6s and 2 Pioneer 6x9 3 ways.
1) Are these subs any good? That is, assuming they work.
2) What should I use for an amp? I don't think I can use a mono amp, because I wouldn't be able to get power to the midrange and tweeter with a single channel amp, would I?
------------------
91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
ported TPI setup
Built on Wednesday
lol.... but I got one free. A friend of mine happened to have a plate, for a thirdgen, with 2 MTX 12s on it. He gave it to me for free. It's a little rough, it needs cleaning, and I don't know if the subs on it are any good. They look rather old. They are 2 MTX PY-12s, rated at 100w each. The plate also contains 2 pods on each side, each housing a midrange and a tweeter. I had planned to go with a tube setup eventually, but this thing is free, I'd be a fool not to use it. Right now all I have is a Pioneer DEH-P7000 deck powering 2 Polk 4x6s and 2 Pioneer 6x9 3 ways.
1) Are these subs any good? That is, assuming they work.
2) What should I use for an amp? I don't think I can use a mono amp, because I wouldn't be able to get power to the midrange and tweeter with a single channel amp, would I?
------------------
91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
ported TPI setup
Built on Wednesday
10-22-2001, 03:27 PM
#2
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Location: Stillwater, OK
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You'll need woofers that can play in a "freeair" design. We make a new Comp VR woofer (www.kicker.com) that can be used in sealed,vented or a freeair setup. Get a good amp that puts out alot of power, and run it solely to the subs. Use the stock locations of the car for the mids and highs.
10-22-2001, 03:35 PM
#3
Plates suck. 
With free air speakers, plates suck .00002% less.
My experiences are that if you insist on running a plate, don't waste money on a good amp. My old $200 jensen amp could push my subs beyond their limits on my plate because after a certain point, the excursion gets out of control. A free-air sub will be better because it's excursion is damped, but your output will not increase with more power at any sort of appreciable rate because you're still dealing with a huge amount of cancellation from the lack of a box, and the more power you feed it, the worse it gets. For the most part, you hit a brick wall in terms of output capibility, and you can usually reach that plateau with a low power amp.
Free-air subs can work good in a trunk situation where you're able to effectively isolate the rear soundwave. The damping of the sub then becomes the only major issue, which is why a free-air sub is designed accordingly. But in a thirdgen, the front and rear soundwaves are still sharing the same cabin, and the rear soundwave is only being partially isolated. This just turns into a big flaming pile of sh*t.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
With free air speakers, plates suck .00002% less.
My experiences are that if you insist on running a plate, don't waste money on a good amp. My old $200 jensen amp could push my subs beyond their limits on my plate because after a certain point, the excursion gets out of control. A free-air sub will be better because it's excursion is damped, but your output will not increase with more power at any sort of appreciable rate because you're still dealing with a huge amount of cancellation from the lack of a box, and the more power you feed it, the worse it gets. For the most part, you hit a brick wall in terms of output capibility, and you can usually reach that plateau with a low power amp.
Free-air subs can work good in a trunk situation where you're able to effectively isolate the rear soundwave. The damping of the sub then becomes the only major issue, which is why a free-air sub is designed accordingly. But in a thirdgen, the front and rear soundwaves are still sharing the same cabin, and the rear soundwave is only being partially isolated. This just turns into a big flaming pile of sh*t.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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