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choke closing while driving

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Old 12-18-2004, 09:38 PM
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Car: '86 Z28, '91 RS
Engine: 305ci, 305ci
Transmission: TH200c (no kidding), TH700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 2.73
choke closing while driving

86' LG4, factory q-jet w/ electric choke

My car was idleing very high while completely warmed up and driving earlier and it was accelerating slowly like the choke was closed. Looking at it later i found that the choke was indeed closed so i manually opened it fully with the car running and warmed up. After i opened it up i bearly gave it some throttle and the choke closed again. I tried this several times and it closed every time. I unhooked the electronics from it and it was still doing it.

Any ideas?
Old 12-18-2004, 09:43 PM
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Unhooking the power from it just about guatantees that it will close, and tend to stay closed. The electric (not electronic) heater opens it.

Hook the power back up, and verify that there's 12V there on the little connector tab with the engine running. If there is, you have a defective choke stat. If there's not, you either have a problem with the wiring, or with the relay, or the alternator isn't working.
Old 12-18-2004, 09:51 PM
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Car: '86 Z28, '91 RS
Engine: 305ci, 305ci
Transmission: TH200c (no kidding), TH700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 2.73
thanks for the quick reply RB83L69.

So if the choke isnt getting power and you have manually opened it with the engine running and warm, it will close if you give it gas? I could have sworn it was running fine once warn when my chokes fuse blew a few weeks ago. Thanks again for your help, i figure these things out some day.

My chokes always acted weird i thought. When its runnin high-idle from a cold start you cannot "kick" it down by giving it gas for atleast 5 minutes after it starts, it simply wont let you. It never "kicks down" on its own, it'll high idle all day if you let it.
Old 12-19-2004, 08:43 AM
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Car: '86 Z28, '91 RS
Engine: 305ci, 305ci
Transmission: TH200c (no kidding), TH700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 2.73
^^^ Anyone??
Old 12-19-2004, 09:02 AM
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If the fuse blew a few weeks ago, find out why. That could be your problem. Choke coil could be bad or you could have a loose connection somewhere.
Old 12-19-2004, 09:59 AM
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Car: '86 Z28, '91 RS
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Transmission: TH200c (no kidding), TH700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 2.73
the fuse blew because i wired the radiator fan to it for a "quick fix" (it wasnt coming on). The radiator-fan wire was arching so that blew it. i've fixed this problem.
Old 12-20-2004, 11:25 AM
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If your wiring has been hacked like that, then there's no telling what else might have been damaged. For instance, the choke relay contacts might have got melted, or the little PC board that it plugs into burned up, or who knows what else. Basically since it's been hacked, all we can do out here, is guess at what might be damaged or hooked up wrong or whatever; we have no way of knowing what's happened to it.

First thing to do, is put your wiring back like it belongs; then fix whatever is actually wrong with whatever is broken about the fan, if you haven't already, rather than hacking it; then, do as I described above. Determine whether you have 12V on the terminal on the choke stat, with the wiring all plugged in properly and the engine running. Check the terminal on the stat, not the connector on the end of the wire; with it all plugged in, not unplug the wire and probe the terminal; and with the engine running. The choke will not be fed power, in a correctly working car, unless the alternator is putting out sufficient power to charge the battery. Therefore there will be no 12V to pull the choke off, if the engine is not running; and this is normal.
Old 02-20-2005, 07:45 AM
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
What does the relay do for the electric choke?

Does it relay power on and off to the choke to prevent
if from overheating?
Old 02-20-2005, 01:54 PM
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The choke relay turns power to the choke on only while the car is running.
Old 02-21-2005, 08:03 AM
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Axle/Gears: 2.73, 2.73
Is the voltage at the choke-stat supposed to be a steady 12v? or does it fluctuate? Mine moves between ~10v over 12v.

It hasnt closed while driving since i started this thread long ago, i honestly didnt do anything but remove the power wire to the choke-stat and inspect it and check voltage at the choke-stat. Been fine since.

I think i found the problem with it not wanting to be manually taken off of cold start high-idle. The "E" lever (sorry dont know the "tech terms" for them) behind the choke-stat that is pushed up by the green choke lever was sticking. The green choke lever moves very easily compared to the "E" lever. The "E" lever It felt like it had some resistance trying to move it by hand. I took the choke pull-off off and sprayed the levers down near the shaft with carb cleaner and worked them up and down, and also sprayed inside the choke.

Now it seems to idle down as soon as you give it throttle. Atleast the "E" lever falls now like it should if you manually push it up and give it a touch of throttle.

Shouldnt these ccc quadrajets come off of high-idle on their own, after a few minutes of warming up? Mine never has, but i just cleaned the choke levers off last night so we'll see if that had any effect on it.
Old 02-21-2005, 08:46 AM
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
I have a holley carb
but the wire to electric choke had no power
so for now i wired it up to the fuse box
but theres no relay.
Better if i use a relay because if u leave
the ignition in the on position
the choke will open up quickly and then I forget
i left the key in run and had to wait for the choke
to cool off.
Also my guages keep blowing thats a separte probl
I have to wire up the choke on a different circuit.

I want to run a relay with it so it only opens up
once the car is running and a fuse.

any tips on how to do that would be cool

Dave
Old 02-21-2005, 12:57 PM
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
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Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
You could wire up something similar to the factory choke setup, as in the diagram below, or you could use an oil pressure switch to determine when the engine is running.

<img src=http://www.geocities.com/vtcamaro/Pictures/wiring-diagrams/pg182.jpg>
Old 02-21-2005, 01:22 PM
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
good diagram

I noticed that the fan and choke use the same fuse.

I am trying to locate the original wire to the choke
it was suppose to be blue.

I will try to trace the wire from the choke warning light
or relay should lead me to the original blue wire to the choke.
wonder what happened to it.

I couldnt find the blue wire under the hood.
The wire that was on the choke was black wonder
what that was for?



thanks
Old 02-23-2005, 10:16 AM
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Car: 1985 Camaro Z/28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: One-Wheel-WOnder 3.08
[i]Shouldnt these ccc quadrajets come off of high-idle on their own, after a few minutes of warming up? Mine never has, but i just cleaned the choke levers off last night so we'll see if that had any effect on it. [/B]
A common misconseption is that the choke is controlled by the computer. The as stated before the choke is electric , not electronic . Even in the owner's manual it warns that the fast idle does pull off by itsself. I hope this is helpful.
Old 02-23-2005, 11:02 AM
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
The previous owner did away with the cpu controlled
carb and put on a holley
I finally found the light blue wire
that originally went to the choke it was cut
and extended with a black wire ,which was disconnected.

I put it back together and its working.
I checked the volts to the choke
its putting out whatever the alternator puts out.
I also found that the c/h fuse is together with the fan.
And I found the relay also.


I need to check the recommended voltage
to the choke,dont want to melt it.
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