Quadrajet to Edelbrock or Holley..???
#1
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: Mild 10:1 355.
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Quadrajet to Edelbrock or Holley..???
Ok I have a stock 84 Camaro Z28, 305 LG4 with teh ccc q-jet of course.(700r4) Its really starting to frustrate me and I have a couple questions..
1: If I get a performer RPM manifold and 650 holley or edelbrock, what else do I do besides replace them?
2: Does anyone know exact part #'s and combo's?
3: What about my computer? If I take off the ccc q-jet and put a non electronic carb, do I have to redo my distributor? ECU?
4: Can anyone just give me a simple step by step so I understand it more, and does anyone have an extra manifold or carb they'd sell for cheap?
1: If I get a performer RPM manifold and 650 holley or edelbrock, what else do I do besides replace them?
2: Does anyone know exact part #'s and combo's?
3: What about my computer? If I take off the ccc q-jet and put a non electronic carb, do I have to redo my distributor? ECU?
4: Can anyone just give me a simple step by step so I understand it more, and does anyone have an extra manifold or carb they'd sell for cheap?
Last edited by Burntz; 08-17-2006 at 10:39 PM.
#2
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Car: 85 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: wouldnt you lilke to know??
Transmission: TH350 Built to the hilt
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Gears Moser Axle Auburn Posi
when i switched ove i went to a junkyard... because i was real tight on money and got a used Vacuum advance distributer..its was 35 bucks... you need to do that... or your computer wont know what to do. now i slowly cut the wiring harness out... (the one going to the carb and the one going to everything else lol i put those lil twisty grey caps on them)there are a couple wiring harnesses that go to the old distributer. with the vacuum advance there should only be one left.. you should be good from then on... if anyone else sees this and sees somthing i forgot to say please tell im because i dont want him to screw up on my count... i did this back when i was in highschool
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
With a junkyard distributor and Edelbrock carb, you'll be trading one set of frustrating problems for another. Either get new, or known-good used parts. You can be sure that a junkyard distributor is going to have a weak coil and module, which will cost you just about as much to replace when added to the $35 assumed used distributor cost than it would cost you get get a new HEI distributor from Summit or Jegs (or half a dozen different magazine ads or eBay sellers).
Cutting the wiring harness is borderline criminally stupid. A vacuum/mechanical advance HEI will plug into the same harness as the original factory harness. All of the now unused computer harness items can be removed by unbolting a connector under the passenger fender liner and removing the harness and attached sensors in one piece. When you move to an emissions-inspection required area (or the Feds start cracking down in Nebraska), you'll be sorry for having hacked up a perfectly good harness that you now need (or, at the very least, could sell to a fellow 3rd gen owner who needs it).
Most likely you've currently got a simple sensor or adjustment problem. You can learn how the system works and do a precision-strike fix on it, or get out the scattergun like you're now thinking and blast away. Think about it: Which makes more sense? I can tell you without a doubt which will cost more.
Cutting the wiring harness is borderline criminally stupid. A vacuum/mechanical advance HEI will plug into the same harness as the original factory harness. All of the now unused computer harness items can be removed by unbolting a connector under the passenger fender liner and removing the harness and attached sensors in one piece. When you move to an emissions-inspection required area (or the Feds start cracking down in Nebraska), you'll be sorry for having hacked up a perfectly good harness that you now need (or, at the very least, could sell to a fellow 3rd gen owner who needs it).
Most likely you've currently got a simple sensor or adjustment problem. You can learn how the system works and do a precision-strike fix on it, or get out the scattergun like you're now thinking and blast away. Think about it: Which makes more sense? I can tell you without a doubt which will cost more.
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: Mild 10:1 355.
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
thiers a guy i know who has a 3.8 supercharged out of a buick that he said will drop right in, for a couple hundred bucks, but he said it had an electrical fire and id have to replace the wires, how big of a bitch would it be to do that?
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
don't go anywhere near that POS. That guy is just trying to make a quick buck off a less knowledgeable person (no offense meant).
look, what's the problem with your car?
look, what's the problem with your car?
#6
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: Mild 10:1 355.
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
yea i know im less knowledgeable, but im working at a parts store and i read and learn as much as possible. The problem is my car wont idle right unless I unplug the mcs, and even then it idles roughly at WOT. Its got a rattle in the passenger side valve cover.
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Car: 2013 Challenger RT
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3:92
I would investigate the "Rattle" as it may very well be the source of your problem and no carb/distributor combo will fix this if it is from bad internals. It could be a simple fix like a bent pushrod, a busted rocker, or it could be more of a nightmare such as a bad piston, bent/sticking valve, flat cam/lifter, the list goes on.
Don't buy anything untill you know for sure if the rattle is from carb/ignition or from worn/broken engine parts.
EDIT: It could also be a cracked spark plug. Had this happen to me a few times in the past.
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: Mild 10:1 355.
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
I would investigate the "Rattle" as it may very well be the source of your problem and no carb/distributor combo will fix this if it is from bad internals. It could be a simple fix like a bent pushrod, a busted rocker, or it could be more of a nightmare such as a bad piston, bent/sticking valve, flat cam/lifter, the list goes on.
Don't buy anything untill you know for sure if the rattle is from carb/ignition or from worn/broken engine parts.
EDIT: It could also be a cracked spark plug. Had this happen to me a few times in the past.
Don't buy anything untill you know for sure if the rattle is from carb/ignition or from worn/broken engine parts.
EDIT: It could also be a cracked spark plug. Had this happen to me a few times in the past.
#9
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Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
I have a very good 600 Holley (which is all youll need for an LG4), in perfect running condition with the linkage adapter Ill sell you for $50 plus shipping.
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Car: 85 IROC
Engine: L-69 305
Transmission: T-5 manual
how does it idle at WOT
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