gas tank removal
#1
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Car: 89 rs convertible
Engine: 350 carburated
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: posi 3.73
gas tank removal
what is the easiest way to remove the gas tank? i have an 89 rs convertible and need to remove the tank to get rid of the electric pump. all of the bolts are rusted solid. is there an easier way than dropping the exhaust and rear axle, and the crossmembers?
#2
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I don't envy you right now.
Unfortunately "easy way" and "gas tank removal" don't really go hand in hand.
You need to drop the exhaust, remove the rear part if you can, it'd make it easier, and I think you can get away with just dropping the rear end as far as possible, but it'd probably be making the job harder that way. Might want to just remove it all.
It's a solid weekend of work, solid.
Not difficult, just long and tedious. The fun stops very quickly.
Shouldn't need to drop any crossmembers (the tranny cross member if that's what you mean).
Get some PB blaster for the bolts. Spray a bunch of it on all suspension bolts, exhaust bolts, and fuel tank bolts, and let it sit for a while. Unfortunately using a torch on some of those bolts is kinda dicey (fuel tank bolts )
uh, so yea, good luck!
Unfortunately "easy way" and "gas tank removal" don't really go hand in hand.
You need to drop the exhaust, remove the rear part if you can, it'd make it easier, and I think you can get away with just dropping the rear end as far as possible, but it'd probably be making the job harder that way. Might want to just remove it all.
It's a solid weekend of work, solid.
Not difficult, just long and tedious. The fun stops very quickly.
Shouldn't need to drop any crossmembers (the tranny cross member if that's what you mean).
Get some PB blaster for the bolts. Spray a bunch of it on all suspension bolts, exhaust bolts, and fuel tank bolts, and let it sit for a while. Unfortunately using a torch on some of those bolts is kinda dicey (fuel tank bolts )
uh, so yea, good luck!
#3
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Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 700R4
If your fuel pump is still good why not save the trouble of dropping the tank and instead use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to drop the fuel pressure to a carb friendly level?
#4
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 28 spline zexel
I still don't understand. I've looked at my tank a couple times. It doesn't look like there'd be any problem getting it out. There is a frame stiffener with 4 bolts, and maybe the exhaust. Is it because of the filler neck? I'd cut it off if that's the case. (1986 IROC)
#6
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Car: 89 rs convertible
Engine: 350 carburated
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: posi 3.73
my intank pump doesn't work anymore. the guy i got the car from ran it out of gas too many times before the engine swap.
#7
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Car: 89 Firebird Formula(Totalled), 91 C
Engine: Mild 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 :-(
This is not a hard job, and definately not an entire weekend job. It is semi-tedious. I just did a 94 camaro at work last saturday had it done in 4 hours. Take the pocket out of the fuel filler door, drop your exhaust, may have to cut it. Unbolt the shocks off the rearend. Unbolt the panhard bar(Access to air impact makes this cake, otherwise may be tough. On this 94 I had to unbolt the torque-arm off the rear so it would drop farther, make sure your not gonna stretch anybrake lines or anything. You'll have a couple heat shields, they come off easy with 7mm bolts. Undo all your fuel lines, vent lines, etc... Undo your fuel tank straps, and to get the tank out, you have to bring the passenger side down first, then kind of swing it around, I had another guy help me get it out, makes it easier. Drain the tank once you get the pump out, and you'll be able to get it back in by yourself. Its really not as hard of a job as everyone says.
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#8
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
I've taken my gas tank out like four times and I have never had to take off or do anything to the rear end. I just take of the panhard bar and then the pocket of the fuel filler door. The tank will come right down if it wasn't for the filler neck, but thant isn't a problem just stick something in the filler neck to bend it a little and it will come out. I forgot to mention I don't have a muffler under the tank either so that helped out also.
#10
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Car: 1988 GTA Black notchback
Engine: 1991 L98 355 TWIN Superchagred
Transmission: 700r4 shift kit 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: www.cardomain.com/id/gtafanatic
Thay sell the replacement gass tank now with the neck piece separate, Tank and neck i still bought the one piece. i have done 6 tank jobes now in the 3rd gen it is really not that bad of a job but if it is your first one then expect it to take a weekend after doing a few you will be able to do it in like 4-6 hours.
NOW on the rear end lower it as far as it can go before the rubber brake line snaps. Ramp or high jack stand are a must.
NOW on the rear end lower it as far as it can go before the rubber brake line snaps. Ramp or high jack stand are a must.
#11
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Car: 89 Firebird Formula(Totalled), 91 C
Engine: Mild 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 :-(
Why would you bend the filler neck with the problems gm had with a bumnch of them leaking and all???
#12
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
I had no idea they leaked but I have never had a problem. Its not like your bending it much. As a matter of fact it was first done with my friends car and it has not leaked because the filler neck was bent. Why not try it first and see what happens. It amazes me to see that people say they take a couple of hours to drop the tank when it only takes me 30-45 minutes but go ahead and try what I mentioned earlier and you'll save yourself a whole lot of time.
Last edited by chevy_camaro_ss; 10-22-2006 at 05:08 PM.
#13
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Car: 91 Z28/99 WS6/02 WS6
Engine: All 350's :)
Transmission: 700R4 & 2 Tremec T56's
Thay sell the replacement gass tank now with the neck piece separate, Tank and neck i still bought the one piece. i have done 6 tank jobes now in the 3rd gen it is really not that bad of a job but if it is your first one then expect it to take a weekend after doing a few you will be able to do it in like 4-6 hours.
NOW on the rear end lower it as far as it can go before the rubber brake line snaps. Ramp or high jack stand are a must.
NOW on the rear end lower it as far as it can go before the rubber brake line snaps. Ramp or high jack stand are a must.
TIA
--30Bird
#14
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Car: 1939 Olds street rod
Engine: Olds Rocket 350 (1971 w/143K mi)
Transmission: GM TH2004R
Axle/Gears: 3:42 Eaton posi
Can you cut the filler neck and then reconnect it with a short piece of rubber fuel filler hose?
#15
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Now, if it's a new tank you should tack weld that vent inside the filler neck to keep it from rattling. After this the tank will fly up into the car. Then use specific "filler neck" hose(2") which is some mighty stiff and durable stuff with hose clamps, reconnect the short filler neck end and it'll be just fine.
Now if it is a used tank or ever had gas in it then I wouldn't do this repair at all.I feel it's important to tack that vent back to the inside of the filler neck and nobody should be welding a tank that has had gas in it.
I know this is a hack repair but it's hidden and with the necks being so fragile on these tanks,it's worth the abuse from friends who know you've done it.
#17
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Car: 91 RS, 00 TA Ram Air, 86 IROC
Engine: 305 tbi, LS1, 355
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 700R4 NonLU
There is no need to hack or cut anything when doing a fuel pump replacement. If you remove the panhard bar and remove the shocks and the sway bar from the rearend it will drop completely out of the way. Just keep an eye on your brake lines. I can do a fuel pump replacement in about 4 hours, alone, without cutting anything. Don't be a hack.
#18
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Car: 84 Z28 H.O. w/Megasquirt II
Engine: semi-stock L69
Transmission: T-5 non W/C
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
I'd like to add that I just unbolted the brake line from the body to prevent any damage to it.
My wal-mart jack and stands with a couple 2X4's pulled it off.
My car is pretty clean, rust-wise, and my first tank drop took about 4 hours with a total of three people and only one set of tools. Didn't bend anything or cut anything either.
My wal-mart jack and stands with a couple 2X4's pulled it off.
My car is pretty clean, rust-wise, and my first tank drop took about 4 hours with a total of three people and only one set of tools. Didn't bend anything or cut anything either.
#19
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: gas tank removal
quick question. my third gen have been sitting for at least four years,i can't remember just how much gas i had in it when i pulled the motor to have it rebuilt. if there was less than half a tank, do you think i need to pull the tank out?
#20
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Car: 84 Z28 H.O. w/Megasquirt II
Engine: semi-stock L69
Transmission: T-5 non W/C
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
Re: gas tank removal
If there was stabilizer stuff put in near the beggining...maybe. I wouldn't risk it either way. 4 years is quite a while for gasoline. But then again, I'm pretty picky about my cars.
The price of gas sucks, but topping off just to have to drain the whole thing and then fill it up again would be worse.
Gas: $40.00 or so for a full tank
Peace of Mind: Priceless
DISCLAIMER: Gas is flammable, a skin irritant(ask me how I know that one), and quite dangerous. I am not responsible for your saftey or property.
To drain it, just open up the line by the fuel filter, or the flex line by the tank. In my experiance, the tank will drain itself no matter what you do.
If, for some reason it doesn't drain, you could BUMP the pump to get it started.(PLEASE be CAREFUL about this though, it will SHOOT out with an EFI pump in the tank)
The price of gas sucks, but topping off just to have to drain the whole thing and then fill it up again would be worse.
Gas: $40.00 or so for a full tank
Peace of Mind: Priceless
DISCLAIMER: Gas is flammable, a skin irritant(ask me how I know that one), and quite dangerous. I am not responsible for your saftey or property.
To drain it, just open up the line by the fuel filter, or the flex line by the tank. In my experiance, the tank will drain itself no matter what you do.
If, for some reason it doesn't drain, you could BUMP the pump to get it started.(PLEASE be CAREFUL about this though, it will SHOOT out with an EFI pump in the tank)
Last edited by pizza_guy; 04-04-2007 at 11:34 AM.
#21
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Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Re: gas tank removal
You can also siphon it all out. Granted you might leave like a pint or so, but when that mixes with a full tank of good gas, I don't think it would be harmful.
#22
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: gas tank removal
okay, almost have the tank out(didn't drop the rear end,but may have to)the question i have now is where do i take it to have it cleaned?or is that something i could do myself. do any of you guys know of a shop near Snellville, Ga?
#23
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
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Re: gas tank removal
okay,tanks out.i did have to drop the rear end.(please tell me its going to easier going back in) now thats its out, i'm going to have the tank hot-tanked.i found a radiator place that do tanks also in larenceville.my question now is whats the best pump to go back in there with? or would it be better to go with an after market pump like Holley or Barry Grant
#24
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Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Re: gas tank removal
If just stock a stock one will work fine (this is an EFI car, correct?). If you're going to be making more power down the road, I would get a kit from racetronix. It comes with a 255 lph walbro pump and an upgraded wiring harness.
http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX..._Pump_Kit.html
This kit works great and I highly recommend it.
http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX..._Pump_Kit.html
This kit works great and I highly recommend it.
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