RedRokkit

84 L69 5.0 H.O. 5spd

Well after 2 days of searching, Ive got even more questions......So here we go!!
My TA runs pretty damn good considering, but the exhaust smells AWFUL...I suspect its running PIG rich (I only get about 15 MPG as is). Anyway and would like to improve the mileage (and smell - drive thrus HATE me), and If I could properly tune the carb I wouldnt be blowing most of my gas out the muffler. And yes the car smokes a lil bit but I dont think its oil - I think its gas.....Any thoughts/confirmations/conflictions?

Can ANYONE PLEASE upload several pics of a stock 84 or identical L69 5.0 motor WITH THE AIR CLEANER OFF!!....that would help a great deal. 2ndly I suspect that the A.I.R pump was removed from my car, My motor came with one rite? The reason I ask is that you can see by my pics that ALOT of $hit under the hood has been disconnected or plugged...is reconnecting any of it gonna help my car run better, IE: less smoke/smell? Can I even hook this stuff back up without the A.I.R pump? Hell when I let off the gas after mashing it good, I even get a lil puff of smoke up thru the shifter boot.....Hack Hack .....But it sure is fun to drive.....Ive never had a 305 pull like this.





Her are some shots of my motor......I circled all the electrical wires or vaccum connections that are not hooked up.....Ive got ideas as to where some of the vaccum lines go but I dont know if Id be doing more good than harm by reconnecting them...as for the electrical, my only guess is the air pump or the a/c compressor and both have been removed.....Any thoughts/suggestions/comments? All are welcome. TIA.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It appears the A.I.R. pump has been removed from your engine. The electrical connectors in the front passenger side corner of the engine are for the diverter valve for that system. A.I.R. doesn't make much difference with regard to exhaust smell.

The FAQ forum has a thread with vacuum diagrams. That would be better than trying to take 2D pictures of a 3D situation.

You didn't mention whether or not your SES light is coming on. If it is, get the trouble codes that are being set.

The carb is basically "self tuning" when everything is properly attached and basic adjustments are set.

///DAN///

iTrader: (1)

I have an 84 z28 with a non h.o. motor but I believe the A.I.R and vaccum are the same . To answer your one question to replace whats missing is easy but if you don't need it for emisions don't bother it can be pricey to replace some of the A.I.R stuff. If you need pics even after seeing the diagrams five7kid talked of let me know I'll take a bunch for you.

yoshirocks702

here i'll post some pics of my engine

yoshirocks702

hope this helps

Firechicken355

You have a coputer controlled Quadrajet. The rubber float in Quadrajets have a nasty habbit of getting soaked with gas over time. They become heavy and sink in the float bowl allowing more fuel in than the engine needs which makes it run rich. Alcohol in gas makes this worse by degrading the rubber faster. Replace the floats with brass ones and this usually solves the problem. The new floats have to be set properly. If you don't have experience with Q jets, pay somebody that know them well.
Randy

shermanwizard

iTrader: (2)

It's been hacked pretty good. Have no fear, it can be put back right and tuned better than it is now.

gotabekidding

i have a '84 5.0.
I have a box of all the computer/emmision stuff
including air pump, carb and computer.
The wiring a bit crispy from where it sat on top of the header.

Its yours for free! just pay the shipping.

pm me your address!

SolarGoldRaptor

I'm planning to put my 84 T/A H.O 5 speed back to original so I've bought a CC Qjet (17084205, if someone could check he has the same carb number). The problem is that ALL the emission components have been removed. The distributor was replaced by a model with a vaccum advance (or was it added), the is no EGR valve. There's not much more than the engine, a Holley carb, an Edelbrock 7102 cam and aftermarket headers. It runs fine, but it stinks like it runs rich and I don't like when I look under my hood to see a bunch of cut wires and some parts that seem out of place.

So my questions is, will the carb work as the engine is now ? Are there some necessary components for the CC Qjet ?

The pictures do help to see where some connectors go, and what are the cut wires near the carb. Now I need to find the connectors.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What's necessary to make a CC carb work:
CC carb, properly adjusted
CC distributor
ECM (engine computer)
ECM inputs from throttle position sensor (part of the CC carb), cam sensor (which is really the CC distributor), O2 sensor, coolant temperature sensor (on the thermostat housing, not the same thing as the dash gauge temp sending unit), manifold absolute pressure sensor, barometric pressure sensor (looks like the MAP, but is on the opposite side of the firewall and doesn't have anything connected to the vacuum nipple but a foam block). The mixture control solenoid (part of the CC carb) must be connected to the ECM.

The ECM gets a 4th gear signal from the transmission (automatic), but I don't know for a fact that it does anything with that information. The ECM also expects a load from the EGR solenoid or it will set a trouble code and turn on the SES light.

In order to be emissions compliant, the A.I.R. system must also be hooked up and functional, but if it isn't there, the ECM won't care. There are also thermal controlled vapor recovery systems that are required for emissions legality but don't directly relate to the ECM controls.

If you are missing any of these parts, there are TGO members that have them available. I have a complete '82 CC carb system minus the carb available that I would let go if somebody came by to pick them up, or paid for shipping. The car passed the strict Colorado emissions test a couple of months before the engine et al was removed, and ran quite very well (but not as well as the LS1 in there now is expected to run when complete).

SolarGoldRaptor

Thanks five7kid, now that's the answer I wanted !

It seems like it's going to be more work than I thought Where does the O² sensor plugs in ? Is it in the catalytic converter I don't have either ?
Will I need the original exhaust manifolds as well ?

I'm gonna have to find someone who's removing all this from his engine in my area...shipping would be a killer from the US for a big pile of parts like this.

SolarGoldRaptor

I've just tried the carburetor, to see how it works without any peripheral or any connector plugged. Well I was quite surprised to see it didn't run bad at all. In fact it runs even better than with the previous Holley carb, and it doesn't smell as bad (still not great on that part).
Now I may have found most of the needed peripherals and missing connectors. Can't wait to install them.

here's a very short video of her running !

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The O2 sensor is in the driver side exhaust manifold. From your pictures it looks like it's got stock exhaust manifolds on it. The lead wire is part of the O2 sensor itself, and comes up over the top of the engine to the harness connector that runs in front of the carb.

richcz28

does your mixture control solenoid click when you turn the car on two clicks?(i have had mine fail twice) Sounds like you may also need to put a volt meter on your o2 sensor and a dwell on your mixture control solenoid. The 02 should avg .45 volts. I would need to check the setup for the dwell. I would recommend getting a factory repair manual and checking all the specs for using those methods of diagnosis. The dwell will tell you how much air/fuel the mixture control solenoid is putting in, and the voltmeter will tell you if your exhaust is rich. I run wires into my car from both the mixture control, and 02 with these gauges while tuning. I also reccomend running vacuum gauge on the motor.

other tips:
assuming your comp works
If the car is running rich you will throw a code
If the o2 sensor is bad you will throw a code
if your exhaust pipes are full of sout your running rich
if your plugs are black your running rich

richcz28

ps: You have an open port on your carb with no line attatched that is large and on the top right when facing the front of the car. when my motor was running rich with a failed mixture control solenoid as well as other carb problems gas came out there. That port I beleive goes to a canister and eventually the charcoal canister for burning of fuel vapors.?

Camaros_Rule

Hey Red, got couple quick questions for you before lending a hand here. 1st of all do you plan on putting this thing back to stock condition or modify it. 2nd if you want it back to stock take that guy up in offer for parts if your not give me a shout. I have 2 84 Z/28 both are emissions free cars and run much better since emissions garbage is gone. That stuff robs hp and adds extra unnecessary weight and can be very costly to keep up with. If you plan on running headers it's going to cost extra to get ones with air pipes.

Camaros_Rule

The reason you are getting all them fumes is because your air pipe tube is disconnected and it's dumping extra exhaust fumes back into passenger compartment.

RedRokkit

Ok, since everyone Ive spoken to seems to agree to ditch the smog equipment, Im not going to reconnect it.....next question is should I plug all the open vaccuum connections? and would all of thise open connections cause me to run extremely rich?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

No, they won't, your ECM isn't smart enough though it may throw codes occasionally. Well, I tried to upload a picture but it's already uploaded to the site. That's a really dumb rule. If you shoot me an email I'll send it to you.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You haven't talked to me, obviously.

richcz28

You have open vacuum lines? That is not good. More air going in = more lean mixture. If your car is running rich it is because too much fuel is most likely going into it. You need to get a measurement from your o2 sensor and your mixture control solenoid. Have you tried this?

richcz28

I have your motor and have experienced and fixed lots of carburetor and fuel related problems. Feel free to pm me.

Camaros_Rule

The First things that I could tell you to do is to plug off all the vacuum lines that are still open like Ozz said the O2 sensor will get reading that air fuel mixture is off and will dump more fuel to try to adjust the air fuel mixture. The little air lines that go into the manifolds I suggest getting some plugs that fit those holes and remove all those air pipes you can. I couldn't get mine out so I basically just bent mine over and snapped them off. I also removed my computer controled carb and got another rodchester carb to put in it's place. I also removed the distrubutor and a replaced it with a non computer controled model that you can find in almost any salvage yard around for only about $25. I suggest any place where there is obvious things that can be replaced by a simple vaccum T replace them instead of having a Y connection. As far as it goes for the electrical connections just tape them off and set them aside so that they will not hit against exhaust anywhere.I suggest any place that you can remove extra vaccum lines that you're not going to need anywhere find place to plug them off as close to the source as possible and remove the extra lines to unclutter the engine bay. I found that my car ran better after removing all the emissions stuff and if the carburetor is set up right there is no reason that that car should easily hit over 120mph with out much of a problem. If you want to add some easy bolt on performance items first I would suggest a set of headers and open the factory 2 1/2 exhaust to a 3" performance exhaust system along with better high flow catalytic converter or gut it out cause it also robs hp from the engine. By simply putting a better flowing exhaust system will easily give you another 20 - 40 hp. I also suggest getting a better ignition system either by adding a MSD 6 box and blaster coil with some good plug wires this can boost hp by another 10-30 hp due to better spark to air fuel mixture. I left my computer in my car just to control the cooling fan and you can remove pretty much everything that has to due with emmisions. You can take a mild 190 hp 305 into a 225 - 250 hp 305 with a moderate amount of work.
Good luck and keep in touch with all the mods and how everything is going with your car.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Those are all good ideas if he doesnt need emissions, which by a previous post I dont believe he does.

John Stranger

just bought a 85 z28 HO 5.0 with a 5 speed manual, there’s a solenoid not hooked up to anything has a CC carb, 373 gears I have some questions haha would you be ok if I emailed you or Facebook? Would greatly appreciate the help I’m in Denver