Siegel1719

iTrader: (6)

Well the so called how-to doesn't seem to help people out too much so figured I would do a right up on how I did it. Also want to say sorry for the pictures they were taken with my camera phone so there not the best.

I'm going to skip the steps with dropping the tank. But its fairly easy. Drop the rear end, unhook the fuel lines and unbolt the tank straps.

First well start with modifying the fuel pickup. I used a 3/8 Compression Union to extend the pick-up and used a fuel strainer I purchased off Ebay.


From there I reinstalled the fuel pickup and cut the original fuel line and added a 3/8 union so you could still drop the tank in the future if need be and just unhook the feed line.


After this I reinstalled the fuel tank and started to look for a place to mount the fuel pump. I decided that since I was by myself and did not want to take apart the interior i would mount it to the underside of the rear most section of the driver side inner quarter panel.

As you can see from this picture I mounted the fuel pump with the supplied bracket, bolts and vibration gasket. Was as simple as drilling two 5/16 holes and bolting it up. Also drilled one small hole and used a gromet and black RTV silicone to seal up the hole for the electrical.

From here I moved on to routing the fuel lines. I used 3/8 steel line you can get at any automotive store. Ending up using three 5" sections to complete it all and had some left over. Ill leave bending the lines up to you as every car will be slightly different. But I replaced the line from the tank to were the stock filter used to be.

Siegel1719

iTrader: (6)

From there I moved on to wiring. I used a simple relay, toggle switch and wired it up. The switch is mounted in-line to the original fuel pump wiring so I can kill the fuel pump when I park the car. From there I tapped into the original wiring again at the fuel pump to use to kick on the relay. I wired the relay directly to the battery and then the fuel pump. If you don't know how to wire a relay just do a google search and tons of information will pop up. I mounted the fuse inside my battery box on the positive wire and mounted the relay inside the rear driverside storage compartment.


Up front I already had a three port Malory return style regulator plumed in.


From here double check ALL your wiring and fittings and make sure everything is good to go. Reconnect your battery and flip the switch and hopefully you'll hear your fuel pump start to prime. I let the pump run for two minutes and found one small leak. Just tightened the union and everything was good to go.

Set your fuel pressure and start your car. All in all this took me three days working just an hour or two a day after work. Very simple and the only tools you need besides basic hand tools are a tubing bender and cutter. Both can be found cheep locally.

Here is a run down of the supplies I used

140 GPH Summit Fuel Pump (Sum-G3136) $93.95
Summing 6 AN Billet Fuel Filter (SUM-230102) $28.95
Summit 6 AN to 3/8 Hard line adapters (Sum-2200075B) $6.95 X 2
Spool 16 Gauge Wire $3.95
Spool 14 Gauge Wire $3.95
Relay $4.99
Fuse Holder $1.97
Toggle Switch $3.49
5' by 3/8" Steel Line $6.99 X 3
3/8" Compression Unions $3.99(Pack of Four)
One 3/8 Union $2.49
3/8" NPT pipe thread to 3/8" Tube adapter 3.09 X 2 (Used to attach fuel line to fuel pump)


And just for the heck of it heres a picture of my car and a under the hood shot.

Awesome-X

Thats a nice write up! And I like your motor, shiny and whatnot

camaronewbie

do you have enough slack between fpr and carb? looks like fuel line is stretched pretty tight, and the motor can move quite alot. but otherwise looks nice.

Siegel1719

iTrader: (6)

Yup more then enough slack. The lines curve slightly up so theres enough slack for the motor to move a few inches but I have solid motor mounts so it dosen't move at all.

MaDeNMiAMi305

nice write up. im going through this fuel pump thing right now too. i have a couple questions tho. im dropping the tank tomorrow afternoon and planned on sumping the tank once i got it out. i have a 600 holley for the time being and picked up a noisy @$$ holley blue for $50 cause it was new and the price was right. so since im sumping the tank there is no reason to pick fuel up right??? also.. the factory gauge never read right (i know they normally read over cause i have a couple other chevys) but im wondering if there is something i can do about it while i have the tank out. now that your done with your swap is there anything else you would have done while you were @ it? i figure i might as well do it all while im down there. thanks for the help.

chris

Siegel1719

iTrader: (6)

As far as sumping your tank ya you will no longer have a fuel pickup. Your feed line will obviously come from the sump. Youll still need the return and vent lines lines at the top of your tank. Also if you sumping your old stock tank be careful welding. Make sure the tank completely air's out and that you fill the tank with a inert gas such as argon to make sure there are no flamable vapors left in the tank. As far as the fuel sender short of cleaning the contacts I have no clue thats all I did.

Thanks
Jeremy

tony_cogliandro

iTrader: (3)

nice writeup - lots of good information. well done.

Pre-Tuner

iTrader: (2)

Nice write up. On your regulator, I can see that one line goes to the passenger side of the carb, but what does the other hose go to on the driver's side?

I haven't done the conversion yet (from TBI) but currently I have one line to return, one from pump, and then I was going to add another line to the carb.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I run a TBI tank with a TPI pump and a bypass style regulator and return in my 1980 C10 pickup. Feeds my Q-Jet a steady 5 psi at all times.

Siegel1719

iTrader: (6)

The second line from the regulator feeds my nitrous fuel solenoid.

paulhanast@yaho

i have had my pump go bad in tank on 87 gta . did you change pump to inline for that reason ? or what reason for changing to inline thanks . paul